Wallas fails to start

G

GxK

New member
Ahoy, C-Brats!

I have a Wallas 125DU on my TomCat 24. It was worked well for five years but now that cool weather has come to Lake Ontario, of course it won't start.

It appears to be starting as normal but after a few minutes the red light starts to flash. No warmth at all in the ceramic. Repeated attempts to start the thing have got me nowhere.

The manual tells me the problem might be a carbonized burner. Anyone know how to uncarbonize the burner?

The manual also says it could be overheating but doesn't provide a solution either.

I've poked around the archives but haven't hit an answer for my problem. I burn Kleen Heat and have plenty of juice.

--Georgs
 
There can be several reasons a Wallas stove/heater/whatever doesn't start: low voltage, bad igniter, bad fuel pump, etc. And I'm not going to diagnose what went wrong, that stove is too tricky for me. And don't forget to try Jody Kidd's suggestion (below.)

Also after 5 years, Journey On's Wallas 95 crapped out and I finally got it fixed.

What I'm going to suggest is that you read the following for suggestions, contacts, etc.: Wallis Redux. Also here is an article on rebuilding a Wallis (for info only):Taking apart the Wallas Stove. Then call Mike at 206-285-3675 (Scan Marine,) and discuss the problem with him.

After all that research, decide if you want to keep it. If the answer is yes, box it up, send it to San Marine and have them repair it. Don't let them sell you a model 85.

Boris
 
I would see if it is locked out first.

1 turn the switch on
2 after the light starts flashing leave the switch on and remove the fuse or disconnect the power lead.
3 with the switch still in the on position reconnect the power.
4 now turn the power switch off.
5 try to start like you normally would.

If this works it was in lockout and happens because it didn't startup or shutdown correctly

Hope it works for you.
 
I had the same problem a couple of months ago and did the procedure that Jody is suggesting and it corrected the problem. No worries since. Good luck
 
Georgs--good you are getting back on the boat! Agree on the lock out.
Also check the fuel pump--get a small bubble of air into the bottom of the fuel line at the pickup, where you can see it in the tubing. Watch to see if this small bubble progresses up the line. Also check all of the connections. Be sure that the voltage is at least 12.6 volts. Put the battery charger on if lower--or just put it on any way....to be sure.
 
Almost all the problems with our Wallas turned out to be voltage related.

Sometimes with the engines off, it will not start. Fire up the motors and it starts right up. 12.2 volts to 12.6 volts from the batteries. 13.4 to almost 14 from the alternator. Alternatively don't touch the water pump, don't run the depth sounder or gps, or lights when firing up the Wallas with the engine off and you may have more success.
 
I've had the lockout thing happen several times over the years. If the Wallace has been turned on twice in a row without achieving successful ignition (for whatever reason) it locks-out subsequent start up attempts. Typically it's been caused by the switch being accidentally (or intentionally) cycled a couple of times without letting the unit get fully started.
 
I had a similar problem with my Wallas earlier this spring. I verified I had sufficient voltage at the unit and talked through some troubleshooting steps with the local Wallas rep. He believed the glow plug was at fault consistent with the age and hours of use. I replaced it however it did not fix the problem.

When I looked closer at the unit, I found (with my voltmeter) that although I had sufficient voltage before I turned the unit on, when the Wallas tried to draw significant current, the voltage dropped down significantly. It was then obvious that the problem was not in the Wallas but in the wiring. I investigated further and found the main inline fuse (close to the house battery) was corroded. I suspect this is not an uncommon problem and people should look here first.
 
Wow, Jody is a magician! Wallas now working just fine, cabin nice and toasty despite outside temp in the 40s.

Thank you, Jody!

--Georgs

jkidd":1uovrvbe said:
1 turn the switch on
2 after the light starts flashing leave the switch on and remove the fuse or disconnect the power lead.
3 with the switch still in the on position reconnect the power.
4 now turn the power switch off.
5 try to start like you normally would.
Click to expand...
 
Georgs, Jody:

Thank you for your input on this. I have been away from the forum for a while.

Please note: The 125DU (aka 95DU25) has no lockout feature. The 85DU270 does. The 85 series superseded the 95 series in 2006.

Either the stove is an 85DU270 or the problem was something else.

Doug at Scan
 
Well, now we have a mystery on our hands--and the solution was indeed magical!

I'm not on the boat so cannot look for additional numbers but the TomCat is nine years old, so the stove would be a 2001 or 2002 model. Let me get back to you, Doug.

--Georgs



macmac":o791ktd6 said:
Georgs, Jody:

Thank you for your input on this. I have been away from the forum for a while.

Please note: The 125DU (aka 95DU25) has no lockout feature. The 85DU270 does. The 85 series superseded the 95 series in 2006.

Either the stove is an 85DU270 or the problem was something else.

Doug at Scan
Click to expand...
 
Somewhat related Questions for the Wallas pro's.

If the Wallas starts OK, on the batteries, and runs without the engines running, is it OK to start the engines with the Wallas still running? Would it make a difference if the top was up or down during the start?

Or does the Wallas need to be shut down prior to starting the OB's?

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
hardee":1h4ibr9e said:
Somewhat related Questions for the Wallas pro's.

If the Wallas starts OK, on the batteries, and runs without the engines running, is it OK to start the engines with the Wallas still running? Would it make a difference if the top was up or down during the start?

Or does the Wallas need to be shut down prior to starting the OB's?

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Click to expand...

My Wallas runs off of my house battery so starting there would be no effect. Is your Wallas running of of the cranking batteries?
 
Yes, the cranking/combo house batteries. I have twin OBs and each one has their own individual group 27 battery. I do have a 1-2-B-Off switch. Don't know if I could Isolate the wallas because it runs of the Stbd battery. Maybe switch the switch to that side, and then start the other engine then go back to both, running it up a bit, so it would see the charge. If I go to the single port side It would have no power and I can see that result --- goes out ASAP.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Steve, Thanks. I know what you are saying. I know I don't need a Group 27 to start a 40 yami. And I have considered a rewire. It was pretty messed up by the original commissioner and I have made very few changes. I did increase the battery size and generally run them on both to even the load. I do carry a jumps start system, and am exceptionally obsessive about what loads are on and where the switches are set.

The rewire is more than I can handle so would either need to have it done or wait until I get retired and have the time to do it piece by piece. The ACR switch sounds like a good idea though. Thanks.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Steve,

Thanks, except for the time. Eventually I will add another battery and some solar charging, giving me a single house battery, a battery for electronics and an appropriately sized starting battery. I may be contacting you for some hints when I do the change. Thanks :D

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Time... I hear you.
A small solar panel may be next on the list just to keep the battery topped up for the overly fussy Wallas when the engines aren't run every day.
 
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