Used Honda EU2000i

S

South of Heaven

New member
I just bought a used Honda EU2000i from one of my motorcycle buddies. He estimated the hours at 75-100 and bought it new last year. He just changed the oil before I bought it.

I'm gonna keep it onboard for when I do overnight trips and can't use my shorepower hookup.

Here's some of my questions:

1. I plan on keeping it dry and out of the elements BUT a bit of water here and there is inevitable on a boat. Is it okay to get them wet?

2. I'm planning to store it along with my 50' shorepower cord under the passenger seat storage box. Is is bad for the genny to be bouncing around on the hard cabin floor? Should I try and brace it and put a soft base under it?

3. Are there any tips to running it? I'm planning to use a bit of Stabil in the fuel.

4. Any tips on connecting my shore power to it? Or, what not to do???! I'm assuming that the reverse polarity switch on my boat will "trip" if there's a problem detected, right??

I'll keep the genny in the cockpit while running it and I also bought a CO detector for the cabin. I'm not gonna run it if I'm sleeping on board....
 
They're great little generators. Mine rode up and down the Inside Passage to Alaska and back several times. I made no special provision for "cushioning" its ride. I'd try to keep it as dry as possible - but a little rain isn't going to ruin it. (You see building contractors using them outdoors and uncovered in all kinds of weather.) I would avoid getting salt water on it, though.

I made a platform in the splashwell to put it on, and was very happy with it.
Gen_Mount_012.jpg

More pictures: http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

I didn't travel with the generator on the platform (due to concern about salt water spray, among other things), but running it there helped keep the exhaust away from the cabin. You can construct your own connector from marine grade components so you can plug into your shorepower.

I would definitely use Stabil, service it once a year, and run the generator under some load at least once every month or two. Ours is now 10 years old and still runs perfectly.
 
We got ours wet a fair amount as it set either in the cockpit or on a plate in the motor well. I would spray the switches and outlets with WD 40 or a electrical type corrosion preventer from time to time and remove the access cover accessing the spark plug from time to time and give the inside a good hosing with that WD-40. Some dielectric grease on the outlets could not hurt, We used a regular 30 amp power cord with the 20 amp adapter so it could plug right into the generator. The base is rubber mounted to they seem to stay put pretty well. My vote would be to get a canvas cover for it. We had a cutout for the handle with a flap on either side. Keep it in the cockpit with it chained and locked to something if we were not on the boat. The cover helps to hide what it is somewhat. I like to avoid getting gasoline smells in the cabin. It messes with my wife's feng shui.
We used marine Stabil when it was blue and never had any issues while using that. They are a nice thing to have. I put ours into a cart and pull it around our property so I can use 120 volt hedge trimmers, mini grinder etc. without having to do long extension cord runs.
D.D.
 
We have one and use it when at anchor. Here is my input:

-I only use 100% dyno gas w/ Stabil
-I made a shelf out of Starboard so it sits in the splashwell when running, w/ the exhaust facing out/back
-I made a 6' cord with with the proper plugs on each end. Got all the supplies at an industrial electrical supply house
-I also had a Sunbrella cover made for it; keeps it clean & dry
-we store it in the co-pilot footwell when not in use
-I change the oil yearly
-I set it all up, start it and then turn on the circuit(s)
-heats up water hot enough to shower in about 20 minutes and can charge the batteries if needed
 
One last tip - if you're not going to run it for a few days or more - drain the carb. It's super easy to do - takes all of 2-3 minutes. You can google how to do it but in brief, remove the cover with the big black screw, put a folded paper towel or absorbent pad down where the gas will drain, loosen the drain screw at the bottom of the carb, wait a few seconds, tighten the screw and replace the cover. The carb jets in these units are quite small, draining before storage will lessen the odds of clogging them.
 
Instead of using the 50' shore power cord, you can buy a 10' or 12' (I forget which) one and the pigtail adaptor. Easier to handle in small quarters and avoids the hassle and possibly tripping over the excess cord.
This worked out very nicely when we had our Rosborough. Good Luck.
Ron
 
We keep ours under the v berth, and I generally put it on the port lazarette when in use. I'll strap it down if necessary (I use an eu1000 to fit under the cushion of the v berth, plenty of power for my needs).

I use these generators at work in remote, tough places. They take very rough boat rides a lot. These things are workhorses. You can treat them very very poorly and they will pleasantly surprise you. I've never had one totally fail on me mechanically. I've only had them run poorly.

Mine have been exposed to rough boat rides, silt, water, spray, and general lack of attention and they just keep chugging.

What I've noticed between my personal generator that gets meticulously maintained, and the eu1000, 2000, 5000 and 10000 I use at work is that mine starts on the first pull and purrs like a kitten. The eu10000 gets well cared for by an engineer, and does the same. Our 5000 is still pretty new, and does great, and our many 1000 and 2000 units take a couple pulls and chug and sputter a bit, but they get the job done. A couple hours on the bench and they little guys tend to come right back to life.

These are just good machines. They are reliable and do their job well. Don't overwork them, and they will perform. Provide the necessary maintenance, and do your best to protect them from the elements when they are not in use, and when needed, you can count on them to perform.

My float switch got stuck up and drained my battery during a storm last week. I got to the boat with dead batteries (I had both on for whatever reason, so both drained). My boat took on a bunch of water, and my eu1000, up under the v berth was sitting in about 3-4". I had no choice but to get it out and put the charger to my batteries to get the bilge pumps going.

Second pull it started, clearly had suffered some ill effects, but after about two seconds of rough running, it kicked right in and my pumps came right on.
 
I don't think you an emphasize enough that you either need to drain the gas after each trip, or use them frequently. I find if I run it at least once a month, I can get by without draining the carb. When I bought my current EU 1000, (I have owned 2 of the 1000 and one of the 2000, plus an 800, which is ver 35 years old and still runs), I bought it from a friend who is a dealer. He said the best thing about these is that they are a money maker for him--folks don't drain the carb and come back for a service, and it is cheaper to put in a new carb, than rebuild.

I have rebuilt the carbs, they are very simple, and easy to rebuild. Basically just soaking pieces in carb cleaner, and then blow out with an air compressor air gun. Clean the jets, and float valve. There is a movie Here on rebuilding/cleaning the carb.

Reverse polarity There is a very good chance that your "reverse polarity" light will glow dimly. Basically, in shore circuits, neutral and ground ate tied together at the power pole or meter box. The Honda semi floats the neutral, and it is not tied to ground. Some folks have either wired up a plug tying neutral to ground--I prefer not to do that--and just live with it. Safety wise there are arguments to go either way. This happens in RV's also. Lots of literature on it.

Cord I make a specific cord for the generator to the plug. To me it does not make a lot of sense to have a long cord coiled up in the cockpit. I make this cored long enough to go from the generator in its run place, to the input. I either run it on a upside down milk crate with a wooden top, with depressions cut for the generator feet, or on a "table" I mount over the port lazarett. I also may run it from the shore--when I am stern too, on a sand bar, or at Lake Powell.

Be sure that any exhaust is going down wind from you and the generator.

Rain I have a piece of Sunbrella, which makes a lean too over the generator. and thus keep 90% of any moisture off the unit.

C O detectors: I have two, one by my helm station, the second by my head at the bunk. Remember that the CO detectors these days are "dumbed down" to decrease the paramedic/fire dept calls because the C O detector went off. There are better detectors than home depot type--but get one with digital read out. First Alert and Kiddie both make these. Also remember than the sensors are only good for about 5 years--so these need to be replaced on a regular basis.
 
This reminded me to test my C O detectors---well one passed, the other didn't. The test I use is simple: Start the Honda generator, and place the alarm about 5 feet away in the exhaust. So off to buy another C O detector.
 
I was able to find the Kiddie KN-COPP-B-LPM Part # (900-0146 at our local Walmart. This is AA battery operated, and has the digital read out. About $25 each.
slow decks
If you really want the best--the CO experts 2016 is the model to get from Aeromedix. This is $199. It gives accurate levels down to 7 PPM, and alarms at 25 PPM.

There is debate if any of these products is "useful for boats", or even airplanes. They are not particularly tolerant of heat (over 100*F) or cold. (below 40*F) They don't play well if they get wet--especially salt water. Other fumes and vapors can give errors. However they are the best available. Sure there are "marine" units---which are basically the same, but run on 12 volts and have the same limitations...

Which reminds me, that we don't store any thing with gas in the tank in the cabin of the C Dory. Those all stored out of doors. Either the tank is drained, or the fuel drained into a can which stays outside.
 
The Honda 2000i is a great little unit and well worth $900.
The Chinese junk knock-offs are just that and perform like it.
Do not even be tempted, ever. They are not Honda and never will be.
However, I can't imagine liking it running in the cockpit under any conditions.
We can't tolerate the heat and exhaust under a 175 sq covered porch, can't imagine it in the 50sf TC255 cockpit.

To steal it with a cable through the handle like Bill's picture takes 30 seconds for two cuts through the plastic handle with a $6 hacksaw.
We're Katrina vets, so we know.
Get the Honda anti theft device of your choice and the low-lifes will look to the next Honda instead of yours. $39 or so very well spent.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-THEFT-DET ... 1933927489

I'm surprised no one else said so is only why I'm opining here.
Always the Pessimist, but I am willing to debate this issue.

Happy Boating!
John
 
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A brand-new research study, launched today in the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA), has actually discovered that carbon monoxide quickly goes through plaster wallboard (likewise called drywall), the product utilized to complete walls and ceilings in many property houses. The permeable product not does anything to stop the gas from leaking through.
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According to a report by the Centers of Disease Control (CDC), there were 124 reported cases of symptomatic carbon monoxide poisoning over the following 9 days. Throughout power failures, individuals are more most likely to utilize carbon-monoxide-producing heating and cooking devices as well as generators that might be located close to vents, which can draw gas into the house.carbonmonoxidedetector.co
 
OK, I've had a Honda 1000i for the last 15 years and it's great. The 2000i should do well.

On the 1000i when you shut it off and close the fuel cap you've sealed the gas off. I keep mine inside a black plastic bag in the cockpit, works well. When it runs it's on the side seat at the rear and I'm still alive. The exhaust points overboard. I change the oil every couple of months; oil's cheap insurance.

One question: you mentioned shore power. I haven't yet run the gen when I'm on shore power; in fact they plug into the same receptacle, the main plug. So what is going on?

Boris
 
One question: you mentioned shore power. I haven't yet run the gen when I'm on shore power; in fact they plug into the same receptacle, the main plug. So what is going on?
Click to expand...

Borris, not sure what you mean. You cannot run the shore power and generator at the same time.

As for CO detectors. They were "dumbed down" a few years ago, because some fire departments were getting "false CO" alarms. This is why I like a digital read out. The best are by Aero Medix, Has several from $ 124 to $199 Which will give accurate levels--designed for airplane cockpits..."not for marina use"--as are most CO detectors.
 
one way I thought about protecting my EU 2000 from occasional rain was to put a little bracket on it to hold a shortened umbrella shaft. One time while beached I put my inverter on the shore to reduce noise and vibration. It was threatening rain so I dug the handle of a golf umbrella down into the beach to hold it real low over the top. I always intended to a fix some sort of bracket (flag holder type maybe) to make it more convenient and to also work on a harder surface. It wouldn't do much good for a real storm of course but it might be a helpful hint to some. I also used an inverted Rubbermaid tub to protect it in the cockpit while not in use.
 
South of Heaven wrote:
4. Any tips on connecting my shore power to it? Or, what not to do???! I'm assuming that the reverse polarity switch on my boat will "trip" if there's a problem
Click to expand...

Just asking what that sentence meant.

Boris
 
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