URGENT! Need trailer help and advice!

[Asuaviator]

new to me 08 22 cruiser on a 07 EZ loader tandem axle trailer.

https://flic.kr/p/2m3mwiV

I didn't notice at the time of purchase but when I brought it home and the snow melted there where 2 chips in the gel coat exposing fiberglass at a point between the wheels where the boat sits too low on the trailer and has bumped the bolt bracket for the wheels. (Don't mind my crappy temp epoxy job that didn't work. need to fix the problem first)

https://flic.kr/p/2m3fZVS
https://flic.kr/p/2m3fZWU

I also think there is too much tongue weight and the boat should be slide back 6in so the the main post for the which is slide back and attached behind the V in the trailer.

https://flic.kr/p/2m3fZWy

What are your thought on raising the bunks? slide them out and replace them with 2x8s? the existing bunks are 2x6 and have sagged to the curvature of the hull.

https://flic.kr/p/2m3fZZ9
https://flic.kr/p/2m3cn61
https://flic.kr/p/2m3mwkt

 

[jkidd]

I raised just the rear bunk bracket have had as much of a problem. It happens when the bow is up to the post and you step into the boat at the ramp and the boat tips. I’m going to make a small pad and epoxy it to the frame over u boats.

 

[hardee]

It is not hard to raise the bunks. I would highly recommend having more bunks supporting your boat. (Like 4 instead of 2.) EXLoader thinks 2 are enough but as you have noted the existing 2 are sagging.

The existing bunk risers could be raised it looks like 1-2 inches. I would go with the 1 at least, then instead of replacing your existing bunks, I would lay a 2x8 on the 2x6, and cover and secure it there*.

IF EXLoader will sell you the riser set for another 2 bunks I would do that, and in the new bunks and the 2x8 add ons, make sure that you have support aft under your boat fully to the transom.

* Your boat weighs nearly 2 tons, Somehow having only 2 each 2x6's just seems a bit shy of common reason. On the new bunks, I would do the same, lay a 2x8 over the 2x6, because the factory support for those bunks is unimpressive. (JMHO).


Note where the transom on SleepyC is on the EZ trailer on this pix.



On this one you can see the end of the bunk directly under the transom on the Pacific trailer.


Harvey
SleepyC:moon

 

[jkidd]

Harvey

Under the 2X6 is a steel weldment, there about 4 feet long in four places that’s what is supporting the weight off the boat. The problems is when your attached to the bow eye at the ramp and the rear of the boat is still floating the boat can tip and the edge of the boat can hit the u bolts. I raise the rear of the bunks as high as I could. That seemed to stop it until last year I got the other side. Just a little 6” long pad over the u bolts with some carpet on them and it won’t happen.

 

[hardee]

Harvey

Under the 2X6 is a steel weldment, there about 4 feet long in four places that’s what is supporting the weight off the boat. The problems is when your attached to the bow eye at the ramp and the rear of the boat is still floating the boat can tip and the edge of the boat can hit the u bolts. I raise the rear of the bunks as high as I could. That seemed to stop it until last year I got the other side. Just a little 6” long pad over the u bolts with some carpet on them and it won’t happen.

Yes, I get that. You are addressing the FG contact with the trailer. I am looking more at the total support for the boat, and if the boat is raised, that should also decrease that contact area.

There is a basic issue, that the boat needs more support, and needs (support) more at the transom. There is (by your measurement) 16 feet steel under two 2x6's, supporting 3500 pounds of boat and none of that gets back to the transom.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[ssobol]

The higher you raise the boat on the trailer, the farther you have to back the trailer into the water to get the boat off.

Have the 2x6s really sagged or have they just flexed a bit to match the hull shape? Replacing the 2x6s with less flexible bunks could end up concentrating the contact force of the hull to particular places on the bunks if they cannot conform well to the hull shape.

On my 22 the front bunks do not carry the weight well because they do not flex enough to meet the hull shape (the vee angle changes a lot over a relatively short distance in the forward half of the hull). The trailer for the front of the CD22 should have multiple bunks at multiple angles to better match the hull shape.

FWIW, it seems that the trailer in the picture has at least one center roller under the front keel of the boat and may not need additional bunks. My trailer came with two wide spaced bunks for the aft part of the hull and two closer spaced ones for the front. My trailer does not have any rollers.

 

[jkidd]

The 2X6’s haven’t sagged they however flex for the shape of the hull. On the easy loader trailer the two 6” bunk are spaced far apart and are 12’ long. With a 4000 lb boat that 2.25 lbs per sq. Inch of surface contact. My typical tows are 5 to 7 hours one direction and have been doing it for 13 years now. I just ordered materials to replace the bunks this year. I just don’t think that the bunks have to be modified to solve the problem. The rollers are not suppose to touch the hull there to stop the boat from hitting the cross members. If they were touching they would put a lot pressure in a very small area and could damage the boat over time.

 

[Asuaviator]

Thanks all it sucks this has been a problem for more than just myself. Now I’m curious whether this has occurred while in transport hitting bulbs in the road as I originally thought, or when getting on the boat while half in the water.

The existing bunk risers could be raised it looks like 1-2 inches. I would go with the 1 at least, then instead of replacing your existing bunks, I would lay a 2x8 on the 2x6, and cover and secure it there*.

If I were to raise the riser an inch there would be no where to place a bolt under the cross member. While I agree it’s the top bolt carrying most the weight, I might think the clamp might slide down the crossmember if not bolted top to bottom?

JKidd, is your trailer similar to mine and did the pad/carpet prevent this from happening again? I feel like the best fix would be to slide the bunks out a few inches thus raising the boat a little bit, then adding a second set of bunks closer to the keel for added support in the middle. Thought?

I also wish when the trailer was sitting level, the back deck would have a slight slope aft but instead slopes forward to the rainwater ends up along to cab. I’m guessing this is a universal problem as well.

 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

asuaviator, it happened to my boat as well. I did raise the bunks, and I’m pretty sure the damage happened at the ramp when loading in chop. I think it was Jody that suggested pads epoxied to the trailer frame, and believe that would be helpful as well.

 

[jkidd]

Thanks all it sucks this has been a problem for more than just myself. Now I’m curious whether this has occurred while in transport hitting bulbs in the road as I originally thought, or when getting on the boat while half in the water.

The existing bunk risers could be raised it looks like 1-2 inches. I would go with the 1 at least, then instead of replacing your existing bunks, I would lay a 2x8 on the 2x6, and cover and secure it there*.

If I were to raise the riser an inch there would be no where to place a bolt under the cross member. While I agree it’s the top bolt carrying most the weight, I might think the clamp might slide down the crossmember if not bolted top to bottom?

JKidd, is your trailer similar to mine and did the pad/carpet prevent this from

happening again? I feel like the best fix would be to slide the bunks out a few inches thus raising the boat a little bit, then adding a second set of bunks closer to the keel for added support in the middle. Thought?

I also wish when the trailer was sitting level, the back deck would have a slight slope aft but instead slopes forward to the rainwater ends up along to cab. I’m guessing this is a universal problem as well.

Probably the exact same trailer. You could raise all 4 of the brackets and leave the bottom bolt out. I think I put the spare bolt in a upper hole to save it. You could add extra bunks not sure if it will stop the problem. Next time your at the ramp and the bow eye is hitch up and the back is floating stand on the gunnel and watch what happens with those u bolts. You could raise the whole thing up as Harvey suggested then you will have to back in further to get the boat off the trailer. I put a 6” block under the jack stand to raise it high enough for the water to run out the back off the boat. Just the shape of the boat a different boat would solve it.

 

[thataway]

What is the tongue weight? 7% to 10% the weight of the boat, is "normal' for a boat trailer. That would be in the 350# to 500# range. What is your tow vehicle, and its rated hitch tongue weight capacity. That is the basic you start with. How does the boat trailer? You don't want it too light--that can lead to a lot of serious handling problems!

It would be nice to have more support aft by the transom, but the C Dory's don't seem to develop a hook if it is not there. This is due to the "I" beam effect of the balsa cored bottom. On the other hand, the boat has been apparently sitting on this trailer for 13 years before you bought it--and the only damage is these contact point with the hangers.

The curvature of the bunk to conform with the hull is what you want. You don't want to distort the hull on the trailer.

You can buy any trailer hardware you want on the internet, or usually from local trailer shops--nothing is brand specific. I use E-Trailer, and Eastern Marine Trailer Parts Superstore. Both are reliable, prompt and helpful.

I agree that it is nice to have longer support--but it must also be supported by the trailer frame. You are not really gaining anything by putting a 2 x 8 on the top of a 2 x 6, using the current brackets, even allowing overhang in the rear. Any free standing bunk wood, is not supporting the boat--it must have a frame bracket aft.

I would be concerned about that abraded area, having some contact during driving. Certainly covering with a pad is one way to go. But if you raise the bunks, then as pointed out, you have to go deeper into the water at launch. It depends on steepness of the ramps you usually use.

It is best to get salt water treated wood. The usual HD or Lowes wood treatment is minimal in comparison. Be sure and use Monel metal when you staple the carpet on the bunks.

Enjoy the boat. Be sure the tires are less than 5 years old. Get an IR non contact thermometer for bearing and disc temp readings which you will take every 2 hours of after a long down grade. Be sure the brakes are in good shape. Flush them with fresh water after each salt water use. You may need to have a garden type of sprayer--even with some salt a way in the water.

 

[C-Wolfe]

Here's a picture of my set up, seem to be working good enough that I never put any thought into it. Are you in Anchorage? You're welcome to come look at mine.
My only problem is I have a hard time to put it dead center on retrieval. This picture is from the first time a look at the boat prior to purchase, so apparently the previous owner had the same problem.
Also, I know I need to redo the bottom paint, but that will probably be next year project.

 

[Marco Flamingo]

I just raised my bunks today (just the rear), having noticed little worn areas through the bottom paint and gel coat that corresponded to the U-bolts. I was very close to the bolts in order to make the boat more stable on the trailer and make launching easier. But I over did it.

Like the OP pictures, I have only a front and rear support for each bunk. I'm not sure that the bunk flexing was my problem, it could be the trailer flexing or even the hull flexing. Doesn't really matter which. I just don't want the hull rapping on a steel point load.

I actually raised mine up to the OP's position shown in the photo, so I was really low, maybe 5/8 inch clearance. There's just too much flex somewhere in the system to allow that position. My hull gouges are definately superficial, probably because I have shock absorbers on my trailer. I'll just put in a little thickened epoxy and hide it with the next bottom paint.

 

[hardee]

Marc, I doubt that the hull is flexing on the bunks. I would suspect the bunks boards before the trailer to be doing the flexing, and the boat to be the least likely.

I agree with Bob, that there should be support (cross member) under the aft end of the bunks, but in the absence of that, an extended bunk is better than nothing.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[jkidd]

Simple solution cost like 5 bucks.
3 pieces of cedar epoxied to the frame and a piece of bunk carpet epoxied to that.

The boat can move side to side when loading at the ramp. It can move over against the side board and the chine will be right above the U bolts. If you step on the gunnel or shift your weight to one side of the boat, the boat will tip and hit the U bolts.



As far as the bunks being past the last cross member, the bracket that attaches to the bunks would shift the weight to the last cross member. The bunks and brackets need to be somewhat flexible so that the bunks take the shape of the bottom of the boat and spread the weight out. A trailer with bunks is going to spread the weight out more even than say a trailer with rollers. There is going to be a lot more lbs per sq. inch on a roller trailer. You can also see where I raised my bunks in this shot.

 

[Asuaviator]

Thanks for all the information jkidd! Those 2 things are exactly what I need to do to my trailer! Nice to see how you utilized all 4 bolts while raising the bunks. I lake day will be in store to do some adjusting