Upgrading Batteries in Starboard Lazarette

T

ThumbsUp

New member
After the new Windlass was installed, it became apparent that my existing battery setup was not up to snuff, so I am in the process installing new batteries, blue sea relay and switch, waterproof charger and BMV 702. It's a tight squeeze but everything fits and is secure. I am a newbie so any advice and direction is greatly appreciated. System will be 12v mainly because the 24v system seems complicated. I'm trying to keep it simple and not mess anything up.

New Equipment:
1. Three 24 series optima batteries. Two in parallel for the house, one dedicated start.
2. Blue Star relay with switch
3. 3 fuse blocks mounted on starboard, two 80amps for relay, one 60 amp for helm station.
4. Waterproof charger - NOCO Genius GEN2 20 Amp 2-Bank Waterproof Smart On-Board Battery Charger
5. Common ground
6. Victron Energy BMV-702 battery monitor

Am I going in the right direction with this setup? Can I run a BMV 702 battery monitor with the Blue sea system?

I should probably upgrade the factory lazarette cover to minimize water intrusion. Any suggestions for covers?

I still can't figure out how to post pics in the forum, sorry! I did put several pictures in my album of the setup.

When ThumbsUp is finally ready, I look forward to meeting up with the Cbrats. First and second rounds will be ON ME :beer You guys have been a tremendous help and I would be lost without you guys. Can't thank you enough. Really wanted to do Powell this year and meet Bob, Sunbeam and everyone else but I don't think she'll be ready in time.

Thanks for helping me build my dream boat :)

:thup
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php
 
Great electrical system. Actually, my comment is on using the anchor windlass.

Whenever I pull up the anchor, I put the outboard in neutral and run it at ~2000 RPM. At that speed the battery voltage doesn't drop and gives the windlass a strong pull. So, I guess I don't count on the battery at all, or at least minimally.

Boris
 
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I picked a couple of your photos for examples. A lot of stuff in there. I am wondering how you are going to secure those batteries. I agree you want waterproof hatch covers: The Imtra SoPac series of hatches are a very close fit, and many of us have used this to replace the factory hatches on some of the boats. (You can repurpose the old hatches for under the bunk storage--after you pull out the foam).

You can use the 702 in your application, put the shunt on the two batteries in parallel. The key is having all of the power go thru the shunt, so that the I am not personally a big fan of the Optima battery, but I don't have any real reason for that, except based on some reviews thru the years….Lots of folks have a great experience. I suspect that some discharge these batteries more than necessary. I use the don't discharge more than to 12.2 volts (about 50%).

I had the batteries in the Lazarette in my first C Dory22--now I have group 31's, on the floor! This is some feat to get 3 batteries in a lazarette, plus all of the switches etc….(If I understand all of this)--Hopefully you can still access the breakers, and switches… (Or are you using both lazarettos?).

As to Lake Powell--no boat is every finished. Our first ever Lake Powell trip was the time our first C Dory 22 was splashed after buying it in New Mexico. I knew the boat ran, and we had the minimal gear we needed in the van, so why not? We had done nothing to the boat…So load up the trailer, and you can be here in about 8 hours! "Just do it"


Going back over your photos, I am not sure why the breakers on the ACR circuit? Perhaps drawing a diagram, would help. I put the ACR between the two batteries directly--The starting battery is charged, and then the ACR closes, and the second battery (house) is then being charged. But I didn't put breakers in the circuit--The 80 amps--why that size?
 
Sounds like a pretty good system.

One note on the ACR (that I found out the hard way). Wired as Blue Sea suggests, it will draw some amps even when the battery switch is off. This can be an issue if you don't take your boat out on a regular basis.

I contacted Blue Sea to discuss this, and at first they recommended putting in another (small) switch on the negative wire to the ACR. This would solve the problem, but I didn't want yet another small switch to think about. When I mentioned this, they suggested that I wire the ACR so that the two positive legs go to the two "cold" sides of my Dual Circuit battery switch (by which I mean the two load sides - the two terminals that don't have power to them when the switch is off.

This way, the ACR is powered up when I turn my main switch on, and powered off when I turn the main switch off. No second little switch to remember.

Another note somewhat along the same line, but that I decided to handle slightly differently: The Victron BMV battery monitor will also draw amps when everything (else) is switched off. This is a much smaller draw than the ACR, so that it's only a concern if the boat is stored for months (such as mine was over winter) with no charging. I have AGM batteries, so I don't need to charge them when in storage - especially in cooler weather and when they were put to bed fully charged. In this scenario the small Victron draw was not a good thing. I solved this one in the opposite way as the ACR. For shorter storage (less than months), I just leave it "on," as I like to be able to keep an eye on the monitor. For longer term storage (months), I pull the inline fuse in the small positive supply wire to the Victron BMV, which solves the problem. I don't find this to be a nagging detail like I would have with a switch on the ACR for regular use, because when I'm putting the boat to bed for longer term, I have a long checklist of things, and the Victron fuse is just another item.

I have an HC-44 start battery (a little smaller than a Group 24) and a Group 31 house battery in the starboard lazarette, along with a battery switch, fuse block, ACR, "hot" bus (unswitched), negative bus, shunt, and trim-tab relay (control box). It's not exactly roomy, but it's not jumbled either, and I have nothing mounted on the "floor" other than the batteries and their cleats. I used the "walls" all around to mount the various components, which keeps them mostly out of the "open hole" of the lazarette opening when it's opened (stuff is mostly under the rim instead). I did switch to the water tight IMTRA hatch covers. The lazarettes stay dry with them.

I will probably end up moving the house battery forward (because I would like to add a second one, and at that time move the weight forward/more centered), but it has worked out fine for what I do have in there now (with some planning as to layout, etc.)

I didn't understand how to set things up on my own, electrically, when I first started (I had more experienced help), and I ended up changing a few things as the gang here gave me some helpful comments, and then as I learned more on my own - but it all still fit okay in the lazarette. Mostly I made some changes in the wiring (the ACR positive cables as mentioned; moved the fuse block to the other side of the switch and then added a "hot" bus for the stuff I wanted to keep unswitched; added the trim tab relay; upgraded the stock helm feed wire and then changed fusing appropriately, grounded fuel fills, etc.).
 
PS: One note after looking at your photos: It might be nice if you were able to use adhesive heat shrink instead of electrical tape on the ends of the cables. I think it does a better job of keeping the elements out, plus stays tidier. I like the FTZ Dual Wall for larger cables, and then the FTZ Crimp & Seal (have built in heat shrink) for smaller things (10-12/14-16/18-22) Also if it were red on the positive wires it might help (such as the short positive legs of the ACR, which ended up looking totally black). Not that it's a crime the way you have it, but just a couple of thoughts.
 
I am following the Blue Sea diagram for my installation which may not the best way to go. The diagram calls for 80 amp fuses between the relay and switch, not sure why. Would certainly be an easier and cleaner install without the fuses. I’m afraid of deviating from the instructions, but you guys are giving me great ideas and better alternatives.

Start battery is secured in a tray bolted to the floor with a compression strap over the battery. House batteries are secured with a heavy duty rubber bungee attached to metal rings bolted to the floor. Seemed pretty solid when I did a trial setup. Believe it or not, after all batteries, switches and fuses are in, there is still enough room to access the fuses and switch. I was surprised!

Excellent advice rerouting ACR cables to the switch to avoid battery draw. I’m still trying to understand the proper routing of cables even though your explanations were very clear. It can get overwhelming for a novice like myself, so I’m taking it slow and checking with the experts (Cbrats) I am going to draw a diagram as Dr. Bob suggested which might help me map out the cables.

I used marine grade heat shrink with adhesive on all of my terminal connections and wrapped electrical tape around that! I know, way overkill and probably not necessary. West Marine charges an arm plus two legs for heat shrink so I will go with your recommendations of FTZ and purchase online.

Will post pics. as the project progresses.

I agree Bob! I am going to try and get this baby buttoned up as best I can and head south for the gathering.

Much thanks,

:thup
 
Good on getting all of the batteries in there, and having room to access the swathes!

As Sunbeam, I have my switch before the ACR (and battery monitor system) so that the batteries are not discharged when the switch is off. However, when I store the boat, both terminals are disconnected from the batteries.

Glad to hear that adhesive shrink wrap is under the tape! There are multiple places to buy marine quality items, other than West Marine, who seems to be more expensive each time I go into the store. Heat shrink comes in multiple wall strengths/types, as well as adhesive/non adhesive, 2:1 to 4:1 shrink ratio. It can be bought from several inches up to large spools of many feet. I find that the 4 foot length of tubing, is a good compromise--and you can cut the length you want, rather than a 3" or 6" piece where you waste material.

My concern is that an 80 amp breaker might be between the battery and engine. If that is not the case, then what you have done is fine. I have my cables supported, and then the fuse after the switch, but before the bus bar for positive.
 
Not that I know anything about what you are doing, but I have found a good alternative to black electrical tape. Costs a bit more but it comes in colors. Called "Rescue Tape" and comes in black, red, white, clear and probably more colors, but those are the ones I have and I can match most wire colors now. It sticks to itself, stretches very good and is a super insulator.

I'm also a believer in Shrink wrap.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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The "rescue tape" is basically a silicone self amalgamating tape.
Another form of self-amalgamating tape is made from ethylene propylene rubber . These are both highly resistant to moisture, but tend to have less abrasion resistance than the adhesive lined shrink wrap.

Electrical vinyl tape comes in many grades, and to many specs--be sure you get the good stuff! There is a lot of cheap Chinese around.
 
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