unloading trailer on land
- Thread starter Bill K
- Start date
I almost bought a boat on a trailer in Ohio once, and I was noodling over the same problem! To make it worse, it was a ~6,000# keel boat. In that case it ended up being a bit of a deal killer (because of the logistics/seller). *cry (The other states I've had experience it don't require the empty trailer to be weighed.) I don't have the answer to your question in your yard, but..... I wonder if there is anyplace nearby with open water? I've lived in wintery places where there was a power plant outlet, or some such, that made a small "pond." You'd see quite a few people there launching their new Christmas presents into the only open water for miles/months when it was way below freezing outside!
potter water
New member
I'm sure you've thought of this, but seems to me that if you get hold of easy loader they will certify a weight for your trailer.
I'd also strongly suggest that you don't try to get your boat off the trailer on land. There is huge risk associated with that exercise. Let a professional do it who has the sling lifts to do the job. They may be willing to lift it off and hold it there while you run to a scale.
Sounds like a pretty strange govt. entity that wants the weight of your trailer before they plate it. Particularly if they are asking for a precision weight. Maybe they don't fully understand your situation. In any case, get a dealer to certify your weight for them.
Or leave it to the professionals.
Just my thoughts.
I'd also strongly suggest that you don't try to get your boat off the trailer on land. There is huge risk associated with that exercise. Let a professional do it who has the sling lifts to do the job. They may be willing to lift it off and hold it there while you run to a scale.
Sounds like a pretty strange govt. entity that wants the weight of your trailer before they plate it. Particularly if they are asking for a precision weight. Maybe they don't fully understand your situation. In any case, get a dealer to certify your weight for them.
Or leave it to the professionals.
Just my thoughts.
jkidd
Active member
Weight should be on a decal inside of the trailer frame. 2nd call easyloader they should be able to tell you. Do you have the serial number? A boat dealer might be able to lift it in there crane and hold it there while you go get it done. If you want to do it at your house then to stands for the back and for the a aframe stand that will allow you to span the front of the boat so you can pull the trailer out. You can make cribbing out of 4X4's. Time and materials will probably cost more than paying the dealer to lift it for you. Hope this helps.
It's not too hard to do. I currently have my 28' Bertram off of its trailer at my house, so that I can use the trailer to move the 26 footer.
The basics are you lower the front end of the trailer all the way, put cribbing under the stern of the boat, the jack up the front end of the trailer, putting the stern on the cribbing. Then two bottle jacks under the bow and lower your trailer to level. Then you just pull it out, moving the bow bottle jacks as necessary to accomodate the crossmembers.
Took me about two hours with a 15,000 lb boat. Should be easy-peasy with a C-Dory...
But I would probably launch it instead, and have some fun.
Cheers!
John
The basics are you lower the front end of the trailer all the way, put cribbing under the stern of the boat, the jack up the front end of the trailer, putting the stern on the cribbing. Then two bottle jacks under the bow and lower your trailer to level. Then you just pull it out, moving the bow bottle jacks as necessary to accomodate the crossmembers.
Took me about two hours with a 15,000 lb boat. Should be easy-peasy with a C-Dory...
But I would probably launch it instead, and have some fun.
Cheers!
John
potter water
New member
I guess I'll be bit more emphatic than I was on my last reply. I had a relative crushed by a 30 foot boat that rolled on him as he was blocking it. He died before they could get him out. So, I've got stronger feelings than most. He was a hobby boater, not a professional yard guy.
I'll be interested to see Bill's answer on this. As I remember it you had to have the empty trailer weighed and then bring a weight slip to the DMV. In fact, with the keelboat I was looking to purchase, the sellers (Ohio residents) had all kinds of schemes they would typically do to avoid the problem (weigh another trailer and then switch, etc.). As a buyer, I wasn't keen on potentially buying those problems, so I passed (for that and other reasons).
I agree that on a manufactured trailer where you can look up the spec online or on paper, it seems a bit like overkill. On the other hand, I've had a couple of camper trailers of which the weight was grossly underestimated by the builder (I think they were trying to be "optimistic" for potential buyers being able to tow with smaller vehicles). That said, I wouldn't think most empty boat trailers would have as much opportunity (or motivation) to "fudge."
I agree that on a manufactured trailer where you can look up the spec online or on paper, it seems a bit like overkill. On the other hand, I've had a couple of camper trailers of which the weight was grossly underestimated by the builder (I think they were trying to be "optimistic" for potential buyers being able to tow with smaller vehicles). That said, I wouldn't think most empty boat trailers would have as much opportunity (or motivation) to "fudge."
I understand Harry's concerns, especially if you have not done this before. I have done it a number of times, safely, but a lot depends on the situation. One time I thought I could get a boat on the ground on a borrowed trailer--but quickly realized that it would not be safe--and found a nearby crane operator who lifted the bow of the boat, got it square, and I was able to run the trailer under safely for $100....
The problem is if the stern is at or inside of the rear cross trailer frame member. If it sticks in back of the frame, then cribbing aft is possible. If not, then you have to jack up the boat inside of the frame--and get most or all of the weight off of the trailer, then mover the trailer forward with the boat blocked up, get the stern back of the cross member, then crib aft. Not as easy as it may seem... This also involves using at least 3 jacks (to be safe, and a lot of cribbing). I prefer 6 x 6 for cribbing--and have some 12" blocks. Although some like to use concrete blocks, I have seen them fail, and do not use them.
If I do block a boat there are two sections of cribbing aft out near the chine, plus one in the center. Another set on the keel near the center of the boat--again with some stands outboard. Plus one more set of keel blocking forward. Sounds like excess?--maybe, but sure don't want the boat falling. If using stands, they need to be chained together.
So in this case, where you don't have experience, I would have someone lift the boat off--or do it the easy way--put the boat in the water! (I know it is cold--and maybe the lakes are frozen?)...
Many states require the weight, unless you have the trailer's builder certificate which has the weight on it. Registration fee is based on the weight of the trailer (not trailer and load)
The problem is if the stern is at or inside of the rear cross trailer frame member. If it sticks in back of the frame, then cribbing aft is possible. If not, then you have to jack up the boat inside of the frame--and get most or all of the weight off of the trailer, then mover the trailer forward with the boat blocked up, get the stern back of the cross member, then crib aft. Not as easy as it may seem... This also involves using at least 3 jacks (to be safe, and a lot of cribbing). I prefer 6 x 6 for cribbing--and have some 12" blocks. Although some like to use concrete blocks, I have seen them fail, and do not use them.
If I do block a boat there are two sections of cribbing aft out near the chine, plus one in the center. Another set on the keel near the center of the boat--again with some stands outboard. Plus one more set of keel blocking forward. Sounds like excess?--maybe, but sure don't want the boat falling. If using stands, they need to be chained together.
So in this case, where you don't have experience, I would have someone lift the boat off--or do it the easy way--put the boat in the water! (I know it is cold--and maybe the lakes are frozen?)...
Many states require the weight, unless you have the trailer's builder certificate which has the weight on it. Registration fee is based on the weight of the trailer (not trailer and load)
I do make two assumptions:
No one asking questions is a professional "whatever", otherwise they wouldn't need to ask the question,
And that everyone here is an adult and responsible for themselves.
As to whether any one of you have the skills and judgment to utilize the information given is beyond my ken. I can't tell from here if you should even be allowed on open water or are safe to drive at night.
So, please, if you are unsure of your ability to tackle something, let someone else take the risk. If you decide to do it yourself, the consequences are yours and yours alone. If you sink at sea, it's not the boat's fault, it's yours.
John
No one asking questions is a professional "whatever", otherwise they wouldn't need to ask the question,
And that everyone here is an adult and responsible for themselves.
As to whether any one of you have the skills and judgment to utilize the information given is beyond my ken. I can't tell from here if you should even be allowed on open water or are safe to drive at night.
So, please, if you are unsure of your ability to tackle something, let someone else take the risk. If you decide to do it yourself, the consequences are yours and yours alone. If you sink at sea, it's not the boat's fault, it's yours.
John
thataway":1pscin5m said:
With the method I described, you are using the trailer jack as the main lifting jack. It's definitely easier if the stern hangs over the trailer, as with a flat boat like a C-Dory you can just crib the stern two corners. Even if it doesn't, on many trailers you can unbolt the rear crossmember.
The bottle jacks are just for the forward keel, and only until you remove the trailer. I only use wood for cribbing, and would not use Brownell-type stands for anything. They are not designed for support, only to stabilize a supported boat.
I see the OP is in Ohio, so putting the boat in the water may not be easy. I agree with you, that would be my first choice. You could weigh the rig on the way to launch, and then weigh just the trailer, giving you both the weight of the boat and the weight of the trailer.
Cheers!
John
jeb111,
I note that you have a C Dory 16, which is a different boat than a C Dory 22. We don't know the configuration of his trailer--and I certainly would not advise unbolting the aft cross member of the trailer--if it can even be safely done. Some of the 22 trailers do not have room for adequate cribbing outboard of the trailer frame and bunks. I don't know how you build your cribbing, but I stack the two beams parallel, and the second set at right angles to those, etc until up the the correct height, only then may a single beam be put on top to support the entire weight.
The only place for jack stands is forward--not aft where the weight is taken on the 3 sets of cribbing/blocks.
Not all trailers and configurations will allow the raise the front/lower the back as you describe. In other words, not one method fits all. This method is not as simple as it may seem on the surface, depending on the specific trailer and boat. I prefer to have total control of the situation, go up no more than a few inches at a time, and block every two inches, as safety back up to jacks.
I note that you have a C Dory 16, which is a different boat than a C Dory 22. We don't know the configuration of his trailer--and I certainly would not advise unbolting the aft cross member of the trailer--if it can even be safely done. Some of the 22 trailers do not have room for adequate cribbing outboard of the trailer frame and bunks. I don't know how you build your cribbing, but I stack the two beams parallel, and the second set at right angles to those, etc until up the the correct height, only then may a single beam be put on top to support the entire weight.
The only place for jack stands is forward--not aft where the weight is taken on the 3 sets of cribbing/blocks.
Not all trailers and configurations will allow the raise the front/lower the back as you describe. In other words, not one method fits all. This method is not as simple as it may seem on the surface, depending on the specific trailer and boat. I prefer to have total control of the situation, go up no more than a few inches at a time, and block every two inches, as safety back up to jacks.
thataway":zv3gnkwz said:
Well, I have not tried it with the 16, haven't had a need. As I said, I have done it with my 28 - 33' overall, 11.5' wide, 13.5' tall as it sits on the trailer. Triple axle trailer, rated for 19,500 lbs, rig is 17,500 as it sits.
And I have never seen a trailer that did not have a front jack to raise or lower the tongue to the hitch ball. I guess they could be out there.
And since the collected wisdom is to discourage the OP, no sense mentioning that on a roller trailer, it isn't terribly difficult to slide the boat back to expose the stern...
OP, I've been out-voted. Please do not do this. Find someone who can do it for you.
Best of luck to you!
John
PaulNBriannaLynn
New member
Another option is hiring a tow truck with a boom and straps. Most have more than enough capacity to handle a 22 c-dory.
I had a tow truck lift a 7000 lb deep hulled fishing boat onto a roller trailer. It worked fine. The down side is expense, they charged me $180 to do it.
I had a tow truck lift a 7000 lb deep hulled fishing boat onto a roller trailer. It worked fine. The down side is expense, they charged me $180 to do it.
I have a email in to EZ Loader am waiting for a reply.
Ohio BMV said it had to be a original manufacturer of origin paper with the weight or get it weighted.
I am only new at having a boat on a trailer, other boats were bigger and I helped shore them at my yacht club. ( a working club )
Bill Kelleher
Ohio BMV said it had to be a original manufacturer of origin paper with the weight or get it weighted.
I am only new at having a boat on a trailer, other boats were bigger and I helped shore them at my yacht club. ( a working club )
Bill Kelleher
potter water":3b1itqun said: