UNABLE TO REMOVE BRASS DRAIN PLUG

K

KevinDU

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Joined
Dec 10, 2010
Messages
91
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C Dory Year
2007
C Dory Model
22 Cruiser
Vessel Name
Sea Otter
I probably tightened the brass drain plug too much last time I launched the boat. Now the brass plug won't come out and I have rounded the edges with various wrenches, vice grips etc. Drilled a hole into the plug to drain the water. Should I continue drilling larger holes and pry out the rest of the plug? Would a twist socket work? How about removing the 3 screws and replace the flange? Do these screws screw into the balsam transom and how do I properly seal the area? Any advice would be appreciated!
 
Teflon tape or a sealant should be used to lubricate brass on brass pipe threads. Brass on brass pipe threads produce too much friction and will stop turning before the normal sealing action of the tapered pipe threads is allowed.

Yes many will say its not required and yes I was taught it was not required on pipe threads but after much hair pulling and research one day I found on a plumbers website the secret why brass on brass pipe threads will not always seal - they need lubrication to fully seat the threads.

Rob
 
If the flange is good you can try drilling progressively larger until you start hitting the flange threads. Then a tap/thread chaser to clean whats left of the plug threads out of the flange.

You can also drill a hole across the square to put a tapered punch through and try turning it that way. I have seen plugs sold that way.

Rob
 
Superzilla
 
Aside from various penetrating oils (Aero Kroil, or PB Blaster), For really stubborn pieces, I use a pencil sized flame in a torch, and heat the center of the plug, just to expand it, allow to cool and then hit the plug with a cooling spray. There are several sprays which will go down to -60*F. Normally one would heat the outside, and cool the plug. You don't want to harm the fiberglass!

Usually a crescent wrench or box wrench is best. Be sure it is really snug.If using a socket, use a square head socket, not a 12 point--it will not have enough surface contact. Even a Harbor freight for $4 will work here. Also you can file the plug to one size smaller head and then use an impact wrench to break it free. Make sure it is snug. I carry a battery powered impact driver in my tow vehicle or RV.

After all of this if you are taking out the entire fitting, then over drill the screw holes, undercut the core and fill with thickened epoxy as you should with any core penetration. Also under cut the area around the fitting, and also seal the core with thickened epoxy.

At the very least, get a new bronze plug, and be sure and wrap the threads with teflon tape.
 
In anticipation of installing a boat lift, I wanted to have the option to install the threaded plug from either inside the boat or outside. Inside the boat when on the lift, or outside when it won't be on a lift (so there won't be any growth on the threads.

I removed the flange (the female threaded socket) and epoxied in a bronze pipe coupling, making sure that the hole was completely dry, sound, and completely filled with thickened epoxy. (I think I used PC-11). There were some nubs on the ouside of the coupling that had to be ground off first, but otherwise, it slipped right in, IIRC.

The plugs I have (bronze or perhaps brass) have a hex socket, and I bought a hex wrench (Amazon) that has a "ball" end that makes it easy to reach back inside the stern and screw it in. May now start using teflon tape!

Whether you do this or not, the flange is fairly easily removed if you have to.
 
Thank you all for your useful suggestions. Today I took an old socket and "welded" it onto the worn drain plug using JB Weld Original. I'll let it cure for 48 hours and then will try using a ratchet wrench to hopefully loosen it up and remove it. I'll let you guys know if it works! Thanks again.
 
Have you used any penetrating oil? I would at least 24 hours before attempting to unscrew the plug.
 
thataway":u390f8tg said:
Have you used any penetrating oil? I would at least 24 hours before attempting to unscrew the plug.
Click to expand...

Agree with this - spray the plug from inside and outside. Also tapping lightly several times with a hammer helps work the penetrating oil in through the threads.
 
Problem is solved! I had to remove the fitting and put it in the vice to get it out. Used JB Weld on the screws and the fitting to make sure no water gets in. Definitely easier than struggling with a stubborn drain plug.
 
KevinDU":31kmocc3 said:
I probably tightened the brass drain plug too much last time I launched the boat. Now the brass plug won't come out and I have rounded the edges with various wrenches, vice grips etc. Drilled a hole into the plug to drain the water. Should I continue drilling larger holes and pry out the rest of the plug? Would a twist socket work? How about removing the 3 screws and replace the flange? Do these screws screw into the balsam transom and how do I properly seal the area? Any advice would be appreciated!
Click to expand...

I always use TFE thread paste on my Bronze 1/2 mpt drain plug
never any issues! :thup :thup :thup
 
Vasoline petroleum gel is thicker than marine grease - stays in place...
Really thoroughly clean the threads of grit after draining before replacing plug.
 
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