transom / motor well trim separating and leaking oil

primative, check out this thread:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t=17114

The process described there is similar to what you would need to do, and it also includes some cross section drawings that should help you visualize. Note that the cross sections were for smaller transom penetrations that don't go all the way through, but in your case you do have access from both sides, and your holes will be quite a bit bigger.

Here's one of the images:

transducer_block.jpg


The lighter yellow is the transom core and the darker orange/yellow is the epoxy "plug".
 
Ferret30 thank you and Thisaway thank you.

The pictures helped me get the picture.

Bob when you repaiared the wet spots on the 25 is it correct you took off all the glass on the exterior transom but only removed localized wet/damagedareas of the wood core.

Tom
 
Tom,
We found that there was only localized wet wood. We cut that out, and filled with epoxy/filler, then regalessed. This was done from the external of the transom.

IMG_0827.jpg

I also have put up a "project" showing the undercutting on my "Thataway" Album
fillets_and_filler_027.sized.jpg

Pages 5 thru 8 of the "Thataway" album shows various parts of the transom and cockpit repair, as well as other techniques for sealing voids, etc as well as using epoxy in the boat repair. Looking at these multiple photos may help visualize what we do with this type of repair, in both decks and transoms.
 
I some images to my album showing the transom cap separation.

Bad side:
transom_bad_side_1.sized.jpeg

transom_bad_side_3.sized.jpg

transom_bad_side_4.sized.jpeg


Good side:
transom_good_side_1.sized.jpeg

transom_good_side_2.sized.jpeg


The separation extends all the way around the corner and up the vertical part. I don't really know if I can take care of this without:

* breaking the trim
* removing the motor
* damaging good gelcoat where the trim is still attached

I could try and squeeze 4200 into the gap but I have a feeling it won't reach into the narrow gaps close to where it is attached, and it might end up trapping/accumulating moisture.

On the good side (port), the cap looks like it's glued down to a black piece that's embedded in the transom top. Hard to tell how it went together.
 
Bob
I look forward to the review of Thataway album, pages 5-8. I finished the removal of the motor this evening. More of a deal than what I anticipated making a home made harness that I trust. Its laughable but safe. One of the lower motor bolts threads started galling about the last 1-1/2 in. of backing off the nut. Not sure why, the threads appeared fine before removing the nut?

Ferret30
Some of the same concerns I have. I removed the motor because as I mentioned earlier on page one I feel certain I have some water intrusion just not sure how much yet and I feel a need to get to the bottom of it.

Given what I've read so far I would try to remove part of the trim to know that the upper portion of the transom has been sealed properly. If it was sealed properly it would be peace of mind for me, then I would consider just gluing with clamping as described earlier. I think any gel coat damage done in removing the trim can be repaired. I do not have any experience with this yet but will soon enough. I have chips in other areas I would like to fix as well.

I don't know if the trim can be replaced if broken or its cost. Let me know if you find out before me.

Mines coming off broken or not. If its not replaceable I'll need to protect the upper edge with some other means. I've left the port side of the transom-motor well open ( no add on projects here) for off loading people and gear. Those same folks get back on unless its a mutiny. It gets a good deal of wear as a step here.

Tom
 
The transom cap material should be available--check with the factory.

If not, the best "repair" is to wrap the top of the transom in glass, and then either gel coat--or paint the repair. I like to put "non skid" on the top of the transom, so I would do a repair and then cap it with stick on non skid.
 
I sent a couple pictures of the transom trim to the manufacturer yesterday. When I called a few days earlier he (Jeff) wasn't sure what I had even though I described it? He asked for pics.. No response yet.

The aggressive grit black non skid tape is what I've used on top of the trim and consider it essential for how it is used as a step in/out of my boat. I use it on my trailer wheel fenders too , I love the stuff.

Thanks for what to do if no trim is available.

Tom
 
I called the factory and they (Scott) said they have the plastic trim. It comes in straight pieces. For a 22' C-Dory its 35.00. They develop the curves by using a heat gun then glue and clamp into place.

They use Loctite H3101 Speed Bond. The Loctite part # is 83006. He named the chemical compound its composed of ( I forgot the name) and said its very good for gluing the plastic.

Tom
 
Also forgot to mention he said I could try to use the heat gun to help with removal along with chisel, flat bar etc.. but thought it would likely have to be destroyed in the process.

Tom
 
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