Trailer Maintenance and Checkup Tips

R

redbaronace

New member
Purchased a used trailer recently for our boat. Have not put the boat on it yet, but plan to have it looked over before putting the boat on it for the first time.

We did tow it about 3 hours from the sellers place to our home and it seems to be in good shape.

My auto mechanic is coming to our house today to work on our cars and will also be inspection the trailer while he is here.

QUESTION: What would you recommend he check for when doing his trailer diagnostic? Any special procedure or diagnostic you perform to make sure that your trailer is functioning properly each year?

Thanks,
 
Probably most important are the wheel bearings and brakes. Maintenance on the bearings depends on what type of lubrication they have. But for the greased bearings I renew the grease at least once a year. If going on a long tow, I will pump some grease thru them just before we start on the trip.

Brakes, be sure they are working--check all lines.

Tires should not be more than 5 years old---from the date of manufacture, which is stamped on the tire.

Check the chains for length and attachment.

Lights for function of all, each time you hook up.

Back up lock lock out each time you back up.

Springs for attachment and that the leaves are properly keepered together.

If a torsion axle that there is adequate spring

Bunks fit the boat and give adequate support

Winch strap is in good order and stitching is good. Hook is adequate.

Have rear straps, either to the transom eyes, or one over the boat.

Have support for the outboard.
 
Bob's list is going into my "save" files.

This is more set-up than maintenance, but check where the taillights are in relation to the eyes of drivers behind you and also the distance between them and the furthest aft projection (there are specified limits). Some trailers put the taillights "under the boat" a ways. My trailer's factory setup is near the limit in both of those areas and I plan to improve the taillight setup. For now I have some retroreflective tape on the main engine.
 
Thanks for the reply.

When we purchased the used trailer from Kitsap Marine, (Matt Gurney), they checked the trailer lights and confirmed that they were working. They also replaced the pigtail given that it was in poor shape.

The trailer was for the same boat as mine (24 Tomcat), so I lucked out there. Hopefully my boat will fit on the trailer without any modification or relocation of the bunks. I have heard that the original trailers that Tomcats came on were somehow a bad design or fit. I will figure that one out once I put it on the trailer and try to make the necessary adjustments.

I will likely need to replace the tires if they are old. Can someone tell me how to read the dates on the tires. I did not see any date stamped on the tires. The tires are Dynatrail Radial St 215/75/14.
 
dotcode5.jpg

img_toyo_prod2.png
 
I think the date code may only be on one side of the tire, and thus sometimes ends up on the inside (bit of a pain).

When I was RV shopping I was amazed at how many pro's (i.e. dealers) had no idea what the date code was, how to find it, or what the implications were ("the tread looks great!") Yabut they are 12 years old...
 
Thanks for the code deciphering tool. Mine say 3610 and 1811 so I guess they are fairly new. Couldnt read the 4th tire as it must have been behind top of the inner fender. Given that all 4 look the same age and tread, I will presume it is of the same vintage but will check at a later time.
 
My fuss and worry (Rant?) is tie downs. Two problems with most boats: 1) boat sliding forward in a sudden stop, and 2) boat jumping up from road bumps and getting off its proper centering on the trailer.

My boat came with just 1) tie downs on the rear which only keeps the boat from sliding off the back of the trailer, and 2) the winch strap and a chain on front. But if you look at the "big picture" there is nothing to keep the boat from sliding forward except the winch post on the front. I was trailering some rough freeways and hit a lot of potholes over a few hours. The boat jumped up enough that it lifted around the roller on the winch post and then slid forward. I discovered it in a rest stop, and with the help of a strong backed trucker, we were able to life the front of the boat with our backs and get it back on the roller. But it had suffered some fiberglass damage from the post.

I now tie a line from the bow eye to the center trailer frame to keep the bow from lifting, and two heavy straps (with winch) which angle up from the rear of the trailer to the side dock cleats in the center of the boat. See photos in Two Bears in the album marked "boat mods" last few photos.

Some people put a big strap from the trailer over the cockpit. I find that really gets in the way when "boater-homing" as it needs to be moved when trying to live in the boat. Kind of awkward to deal with when pulling in to a rest area at midnight with an need for some rest.

Chuck
 
Two Bears makes a good point. I use either a chain, or a strap to an eye on the trailer to prevent rising up and going forward. We have used the cross strap on the cockpit on two 22's and the 25 with no interference with the use when camping. The strap is just forward of the cleats and does go over the aft hatches, but we don't get into those generally when on the road. We generally board with a short step ladder on the side. It is aluminum and we just put the ladder in the cockpit when we get under way--leave it in the truck when boating.
 
Nothing mentioned (yet) of the tongue jack, but It also needs to be adequate, weight wise and crank easily, (which, right now mine is having some issue). I have rinsed every trip, and greased it on occasion, but it is getting stiff.

At least once each season, go over all the bolt/nut attachments, and be sure they are tight. (This became a practice after I decided or rebunk my original trailer and found some nuts I could hand turn.)

Harvey
SleepyC:moon
 
Back
Top