Part 2
7-15-10
Blaine and Monique shoved off today for Pelican. Hope to see them again next year maybe at PSW. We spent a quiet day chopping wood and keeping a hot fire going to dry out everything we could from the boat. Only one day since leaving Skagway without rain and at times it coming down in the proverbial buckets. Weather finally supposed to be OK tomorrow on the outer coast of Chichagof Island. Have sure enjoyed the last four days waiting for ti to clear. Wonderful to not have a time table for any place we have to be. Photo of me in front of the shelter.
7-16-10
Early 3:30 AM start for passage down Lisianski Straight to catch slack water at inlet followed by run down outer Chichagof Island to Imperial Passage and then smooth water Ogden and Superior Passages to Klag Bay and Anna and Sister Lakes.
Looking back think one of the highlights of this summer could very well be the laid back enjoyable time spent in and around the forest service cabin on Lisianski Straight.
Seas on outer coast only 5 feet but heavy rain and thick fog made the run a bit more intense then we would have preferred. Made a swing further out into the ocean to avoid the rocks and kelp.
Finally flipped the Mokai while under tow with the Hunkydory . Went in close to the Sister Lake tidal entrance to check conditions and while making a tight turn the Mokai spun in a small whirlpool causing one of the bridal lines to catch on the GPS mount. This flipped it immediately. Must say it road and towed very well upside down till we cleared the swirling water and got it flipped back over. Not enough water got in to warrant removal of cover and bailing immediately. Waited to after anchoring in Sister Lake. Fairly easy getting water out of engine. No water in the crank case, so had it running in a couple of hours and then made a several mile run through the islands watching sea otters, sea lions and seals.
And interesting observation to us involving the bears and sea otters. Have only seen four bears so far this trip and none in the Black Bay and Sister Lake area. In early June 2007 saw many along the shore and always several at the head of Lisianski Straight, Black Bay and Sister Lake. Think July to be the low bear viewing time for boat cruisers due to the sedge grass being now mature and the fish not yet running. The sea otters which we saw in large groups in Ogden and Superior Passages were gone except for a very few. Found them again in big numbers though not in large groups in Anna and Sister Lakes. Most had pups with them.
Concerning tides and currents. In the Douglass cruising book "Exploring Southeast Alaska" it says the tides at Sister Lake are 2.5 hours after Sitka. The Garmin 545 tide chart was off the same 2.5 hours for this area. We were there 2.5 hours early due to its report and that was why we were in close checking the current when the Mokai flipped.
77 miles today 377 total
7-17-10
Up early from a quite night other then a couple of very loud loones (not us) anchored in Lister Lake. Out on the high slack tide. On Anna Lake met a flotilla of Indian skiffs of at least eight boats. Never talked to them but think they are setting up for fishing at the entrance to Sister Lake. Back out Elbow Passage from Klag Bay to Slocum Arm Khaz Bay. Found three bears each in Waterfall Cove and the head of Slocum Arm, so there not all back in the bush picking berries.
Thick fog and rain in the morning, but by evening had some blue in the sky and zero wind. Both very welcomed. Night achored in beautiful Double Cove off Khaz Bay. Couldn't help but think of New Moon, Richard and his stay here after encounter with seaweed in Piehle Passage and 20 plus foot seas outside Khaz Bay in the 22 foot C-Dory he owned at that time.
For those not knowledgeable about this area its a very remote Alaska wilderness area on the outside coast of Chichagof Island.
Have called New Moon on channel 16 several times after I hear another boat trying also. So far no answer back.
42 miles today and 429 total
7-18-10
Wallas stove acting up. Fan blower not working so stove overheating. With smooth seas on the west outside coast of Chichagof Island decided to set out for Sitka. A good place for parts or for Scan Marine to send them to us. Water stayed calm on the outside and the last 30 miles after reaching protected waters switched again to one motor displacement speed. So far have averaged 5 mpg and with us carrying almost 100 gallons of fuel have max range of almost 500 miles.
After docking at Sitka took the Wallas apart enough to see problem with stove is motor slipping inside the fan bushing. The electric motor shaft is bonded to the fan bushing with glue so will pick some up at the hardware store tomorrow.
Nine days since the last shore showers were available at Elfin Cove so the good facilities at the Sitka Harbor were very Welcome.
53 miles today and 472 total
7-19-10
Worked on the Wallas again. Won't know till tomorrow if the bond will take. Spent most the day walking around Sitka sight seeing.
A guy working at this harbor owns a a prelude to the C-Dory the made by Marble Marine Hunkydory. This is his and its the last one made.
This is the number three Hunkydory made and fishing.
Brian and Brandy on their trawler "San Simone" docked next to us today. We heard them calling Richard on New Moon in Khaz Bay three days ago. They have lots of experience on the Inland Channel and this year completed the circle around Baronof Island after coming up from Bellingham. They considered rounding cape Ommaney and the trip up the west coast of Baranof Island a major accomplishment. Has got me thinking if it would be possible to do in a 22 foot C-Dory. They are friends of Richard and we found them to enjoyable folks to be around.
Their boat is just behind ours in this photo.
Was hoping to meet Richard, but he is over in the Juneau area, so maybe another time.
7-20-10
Asked a guy to take a photo of us here by the Harbor office.
The wallas is down for the count this summer, so its the Buddy Heater for heat and Coleman stove for cooking from now on. Was able to make the bond between fan and motor, but motor would then quit and in process of checking it out shorted the control board. It is definitely the most unreliable addition to the boat or should I say the opposite you can count on it giving out every trip.
Headed south across Sitka Sound to Redoubt Bay falls to see the bears and fish for springers. Saw a couple bears, but no luck with the fishing. They were jumping out of the water continuously but not biting and no luck snagging.
Anchored for the night in a small channel off Aleautkina Bay.
42 miles today and 514 total
7-21-10
Back from nights achorage to Sitka in thick fog. Stocked up on ice, groceries and filled the fuel tanks. Now with Wallas down and using diesel container for gas can top off with 101 gallons. Fuel prices for Sitka best so far. If over 50 gallons is purchased its $3.36 per gallon.
When we called the Sitka Harbormaster asking for temporary dock space, Steve Oberto, owner of the very large trawler "Maxamo" heard us call and came over to greet us when we pulled in. He has a 14 foot C-Dory as a Dingy and Carry's two Mokai's on the Maxamo along with I think two other small boats. We had met him in Red Bluff Bay in 2007 and was great visiting with him again. He is staying north longer this year than in the past. Wants to see the bears during the fish runs. Was swapping stories about the Anna and Sister Lake area and He said He took the Maxamo into and immediately back out of Sister Lake on a very high slack tie. Now that's one I would have payed to watch. He also said we should check out Patterson Bay near the southeast end of Baranof Island. He though it was more spectacular than Red Bluff Bay, so its on our agenda if it works out. This is a photo of the Maxamo in Red Bluff Bay in 2007.
Met another couple while fueling who told us about this other C-Dory they had seen in Sitka a few years ago who had their grand kids aboard and still wondered just how they managed it. Even remember their names. El and Bill they said you would remember the trawler "Zucceenee".
From Sitka headed north in the fog and light rain at displacement speed to Schulze Cove for the nights anchorage, which is very close to Sergius Narrows rapids and the entry to Peril Straight. The Zucchini is anchored here by us tonight.
36 miles today and 550 total
7-22-10
Through Sergius Narrows rapids mid way through the flood tide. Best I could estimate it was running 6mph. Many swirls, but no problems. With the 100 gallons of fuel and all the stuff aboard we're the heaviest ever on a cruise. Other than lack of power notice the extra weight most in how stiff it is to steer.
Stopped for a break in Appleton Cove and saw a mama grizzly and her three cubs.
Stopped at Warm Springs Bay to soak in the hot water pools by the falls and walked out to the lake picking and eating salmon berries most of the way. Was planning on continuing down to Red Bluff Bay but by the time we headed back out into Chatham Straight the storm that was supposed to hit this evening had arrived early. To big of waves for us, so we're anchored for the night and most likely through tomorrow night. Small craft warning tonight and tomorrow. Have some good books and we can soak some more in the hot water.
On the trail back from the lake met a group of people from a large yacht and their faces really lit up when I told them I saw a small cub but not the mother bear up the trail a hundred yards. They weren't amused when I said "just kidding".
76 miles today and 626 total
7-23-10
All day in Warm Springs Bay. Re anchored close to the dock. Had to use short scope due to many fishing and large trawlers all anchored close together in this area. Bottom very hard so dragged anchor twice during the day. Would lose set when tide changed. Water is about 60 feet and can only use 130 feet of rode to keep from over swinging. Docks filled with boats fishing and cruise with the fishing boats rafting four deep. Thought we would get a turn at the dock but doesn't look like that's going to happen. With the storm on Chatham Straight the boats just aren't moving.
Walked back up to the lake and hot pools and picked a large bowl of ripe blue berries. Delicious!! Took the Mokai up to the face of the large falls maneuvering around in the fast water among the rocks at low tide. Also went up the narrow shallow gorge to the small lake about a quarter mile south of the falls.
We might well be here again tomorrow . NOAA is calling for 30 knot winds on Chatham Straight tonight and tomorrow with continuing small craft warnings. So far have had much more high winds, rain and fog than previous cruises here. Checked conditions again this morning and if the wind and waves would have been coming from the north instead of south we could have made the sixteen miles to the Red Bluff Bay entrance, but we've had enough already of pounding into the waves.
Jo-Lee rested in the boat all day. On the trip to the hot pools yesterday some bug bit her very near the eye and its swollen shut today. Between that and the continual rain inside as well as outside the boat has her down a bit and I guess me somewhat too. Since leaving Skagway daytime high temperatures have only been between 52 and 58 degrees. Without the Wallas and using propane for heat and cooking the inside of the boat, clothes, bedding ect is getting pretty damp.
7 miles today and 633 total
7-24-10
Went out early to check Chatham Straight conditions and could harly believe my eyes when instead of small craft warning conditions the water was almost totally calm., so headed south to Red Bluff Bay. It was just as beautiful as we remembered it from our past stops. Fifteen miles on the Mokai. Up the river untill stopped by a huge tree across it. Saw a bear by the tree. Around and around the flats and channels and then out to the old cannery site where there was a mixture of dolley varden trout and salmon in the little bay in front of the old cannery site. Also this bear at the creek alternating from chasing and catching fish to eating salmon berries.
Caught fish untill my arms wore out and kept a couple of the small ones for dinner. The dark water in this photo is fish
Met Jerry and Tanya Sword there who where also fishing and anchored near us at the head of the bay. I've fished very little for Halibut and He invited to go out to the bay entrance in his small Boston Whaler dingy tomarrow morning. Just before dark took a walk out on whats called bear meadows and saw two bears.
Very good Day!!!
24 miles today and 657 total
7-25-10
Up early to a low tide and the Hunkydory sitting on the hard. Good thing I had raised the motors and trim tabs before going to bed.
While waiting for Jerry to pick me up for Halibut fishing the owner of the Yaught "Margarie Morningstar" came over in his RIB to give us a bear warning. He had seen me going up the river in the mOkai and this moring very early he had walked up it banks to fish and a bear charged him from the other side of the river. He said it made three charges and on the last one it was still coming at 20 feet when he set off a bear banger. Told me he thought he was bear toast for sure. Was still pretty shook up when talking to me. There are many ripe salmon berries on the steep shore opisite the grass flats and the bears are crossing back and forth. The river is shallow and I hadd been very watchfull when going up and down it. Will even be more watchfull now.
Halibut fishing was good and kept a small one for the next couple of days dinner. After fishing went back down to the old cannery are in the Hunkydory to show Jo-Lee the fish and watch the bear fishing. The sun came out today and its finally warm with only a light breeze. Fantastic Day!!! Just knew Red Bluff Bay wouldn't let us down. This years Red Bluff Bay anchorage
7 miles today and 622 total
7-26-10
Up anchor and out Red Bluff Bay heading south down the east Baranof Island coast to Patterson Bay in a three foot chop. It was from the north and we were heading south so it was a mostly a surging fun ride. Anchored between a small island and the head of the bay with waterfalls and two creeks coming in. One at each side of the bay head. Space between island and shore only enough for 90 feet of anchor rode to deep from rocks on either side of the tide swing. 20 feet of water at mid tide and good sticky mud bottom, so will sleep well even if only 20 feet from from the shores on the swing at low tide.
Temputure up to 72 degrees and felt much warmer. Lazed in the sun soaking up its rays and the beauty all around. Schools of small fish and seals after them around and about the boat. Have been hoping for a bear to appear on the near grass line, but so far no luck. Just stuffed ourselfves on a delicous halibut dinner and feeling sleepy enough for bed. Didn't see another boat after seeing the National Geografic "Seabird" as we left Red Bluff Bay this morning.
Patterson Bay anchorage looking toward bay head.
Patterson Bay anchorage looking towar the bay entrance
34 miles today and 698 total
7-27-10
Left Patterson Bay headed south to Port Alexander and then tried to made it around Cape Ommaney to head back north on the west outside coast of Baranof Island to Sitka. NOAA weather called for northwest winds of 15 knots but with the current and rips it was very rough especially as we had to pound directly into it. We were in confused seas but not really dangerous, but could see nothing but the tops of white waves ahead, so did an about face and back to Port Alexander. There met and spent most of the day talking to charter and commercial fisherman to determine if trying to made outside run to Sitka to be above ours or maybe even the boats ability. All the folks we consulted said Cape Ommaney and the first ten miles or so north are about the worst waters in southeast alaska to navigate. Two very experienced charter boat captains one running a 31 foot Albin the other a 27 foot Sea Hawk both broached later today very near where we turned around. Both lost controll of their boats and did a 180 degree uncontrolled turn. They said it was the first time it had happened to either of them. They said in the outside area of the Cape when NOAA is calling for 15 knot winds it can be blowing 35 plus knots and that combined with the rips makes for very bad water. 10 to 12 foot vertical close spaced waves sure sounded bad to me. Blue sky and still winds in Port Alexander today which is only 6 miles from Cape Ommaney on the Chatham Straight side. NOAA calling for more northwest winds tomarrow with a change to southwest and then south the next two days after. From the information I've been gathering this should give us the window we need to made the run. Other plus side is they should lift the fog up the coast in the Sitka area. Negative is they will bring rain.
Hunkydory at the dock with some of the Port Alexander fleet
Port Alexander front dock and town beach front
This is the 31 foot Albin that broached at Cape Ommaney the same day we tried to round it.
We have not seen another cruise type boat sense leaving Red Bluff Bay. Cruise books don't recommnend Port Alexander and several of the boaters we talked to since leaving Skagway were somewhat apprehensive or even afraid to dock here. They are an independent free spirited folk and we have found them the friendliest and most welcoming of all the places so far. Similair to how Pelican used to be. Port Alesander is if not the most islated small town in Southeat Alaska not having to try much to be near it. As friendly as the people here are I think if riding in on a high horse it would not take long to find yourself on the ground.
The little townhall called the Bear Den has a computer with internet access when the town generator is running. The're running it today so plan on making a quick post to the C-Brats. Tied to the dock tonight with only commercial and charter boats around us making the Hunkydory feel almost as small as earlier today whe we tried to make Cape Ommaney.
46 miles today and 744 total
7-28-10
This morning the Captain of one of the boats that broached yesterday who's father in law owns the "laughing Raven Lodge" here took me up to the Lodge to get internet weather. Internet was down, but he later brough me a print out that he had accessed. It amazed me He would bring me right into the room the guest were eating breakfast in so we could ateempt to get on the computer. In Pelican I went to a Lodge to buy a fishing Licience and they made me wait out on the boardwalk while gettin it for me and they didn't even have a guest in the lodge at the time. Shared a beer with and talked to both of the Charter boat Captains again this evening. Said conditions were terrible again today on the back side of the Cape. Now the winds are supposed to switch from north to south tomarrow afernoon. There should be a window of flat water then. Now if it will just happen when we have enough daylight to make use of it. Really enjoying the stay here, but both of us are apprehensive about this outside run. Debating on whether or not we should give the idea up and head back up Chatham Straight instead.
Wooden fishing boat built in 1930 whom owner in photo brought up from Port Townsend, Washington. Owner works part time for the town.
Port Alexander inner harbor boat graveyard
