Teak Top Railings for 22' Angler

J

jmcknight00

New member
Hey guys,
I'm new to the forum and live in Juneau, AK. I couldn't really find anything on this subject in the chats, but I was wondering if anyone makes stainless steel top railings for the 22' Angler that will replace the existing teak railings. I'd appreciate any info you guys have to share. Thanks very much...
James
 
The teak rails changed to SS sometime after 1990. I'd be surprised if the current SS rails wouldn't fit the holes on your older boat. The factory buys them from someone and could probably direct you to a source and, no, there has been no noted interference with VHF, Radar or anything else.

While you're at it, buy the rails for inside handholds that fit on the same screws/bolts. In rough weather, you'll be glad you have them. :thup

Charlie
 
I remember looking at the rails in comparison, once, and the teak rails have more screw holes because the spacing of the downward supports is quite a bit closer together. It's something like 7 screws for the teak, and only four for the stainless ones, on a CD-22 Cruiser, anyway.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
You probably could get custom built built railings in SS, but as Joe says, the bolt holes of the "factory" units are much different.

The 1 1/4 handicap bars as on the E-bay offering have 3 #10 screw mounts--and I suspect that although they could be used on the top of a C Dory--they would not be ideal. I have installed a number of these in both our own bathrooms and in other plases where my mother and mother in law live. These railings are more for pushing down on--and thus the larger diameter, vs the smaller diameter of the traditional boat railings. With these you would probably not cover up the current holes--and would drill a number of new ones.
 
One more thought:

The original teak ones on the older Cruisers, at least, are standard replaceable items with standard spacing, and are available at marine stores, perhaps on order if not in the store itself.

Admittedly, the stainless ones are less upkeep, but the problem is that people use teak oil or varish on them, and don't keep them up.

I sanded mine down to new wood, and put nine coats of UV- resistant polyurethane on them back when we lived in the Bay Area, about the year 2000, and they still look like new.

Doing that, or just buying a new pair and coating them properly, can fix the problem.

Personally, I like the appearance of the teak rails better, and their larger diameter makes for a bigger, better, safer, handhold, too! (IMHO)

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Joe,

I looked at your photo album and your rails looks great. You have motivated me to refinish my rails. Do you have a recommendation for a specific UV-resistant polyurethane finish? In a previous life I had a Catalina 27 in which the previous owner had varnished the rails. They looked great for a year or so but the Texas sun really gives them a beating. I'm interested in any tips before I embark on the projects. Thanks again.

Karl
 
fisherkb":2pfh9q53 said:
Joe,

I looked at your photo album and your rails looks great. You have motivated me to refinish my rails. Do you have a recommendation for a specific UV-resistant polyurethane finish? In a previous life I had a Catalina 27 in which the previous owner had varnished the rails. They looked great for a year or so but the Texas sun really gives them a beating. I'm interested in any tips before I embark on the projects. Thanks again.

Karl
Click to expand...

Karl-

I'll tell you what I used, to my best memory, though by now, the formulations and products may have changed somewhat, as the development of these types of finishes continues.

Here are the details:

Flecto Brand.

Varathane product line.

Classic Clear Spar Polyurethane

Diamond Wood Finish

Maximum UV Protection

Gloss.

***************************

You want a urethane because it flows out flat with a brush, is very flexible and won't crack, bruise, scratch, or abrade. There are some new variations on urethanes, but I'm unfamiliar with them. I used a single part, just paint it on and let it dry. There are some that are two-part, but the single part seemed to work just fine, and it avoids the left over part that has to be thrown away when you use a two part/catalytic system.

Try a couple of different marine and hardware stores, and get the latest, best stuff you can get. I was able to not have to sand between coats, as long as the next coat was applied within a time period when the previous coat was still "green", and they'd bond together without sanding. Saved a lot of time and effort!!!

Good Luck!

You'll love it when you're done!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
When I pulled the old nasty cracked teak top rails and replaced them with new ones, I was able to cut 4 hand holds from the dead carcass, sand them a little, one coat of minn wax gunstock stain, 9 coats of urethane, and new life for four handholds that semi-match the boats genre.

Now if I could only think of a good place to put them?

Chris

http://yfrog.com/05handholds001j
 
Hi Folks,

I use CETROL once or twice a year. Does not peel. Looks great.I like the wood look of the wood rails.

Use regular marine.
 
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