Wow--strap a boat with a hyrdofoil to your boots! What happens if the foil trips on the reef, and you do a nose plant? Surfing has sure come a long was in the last 55 years. A mother of a friend of mine in college witnessed Duke Kahanamoku's legendary surf board ride 1917 off Diamond Head: From his book on surfing:
""Strangely, it was more as though the wave had selected me, rather than I had chosen it. It seemed like a very personal and special wave — the kind I had seen in my mind's eye during a night of tangled dreaming. There was no backing out on this one; the two of us had something to settle between us. The rioting breakers between me and shore no longer bugged me. There was just this one ridge and myself — no more. Could I master it? I doubted it, but I was willing to die in the attempt to harness it."
"Instinctively I got to my feet when the pitch, slant and speed seemed right. Left foot forward, knees slightly bent, I rode the board down the precipitous slope like a man tobogganing down a glacier. Sliding left along the watery monster's face, I didn't know I was at the beginning of a ride that would become a celebrated and memoried thing. All I knew was that I had come to grips with the tallest, bulkiest, fastest wave I had ever seen. I realized, too, more than ever, that to be trapped under its curling bulk would be the same as letting a factory cave in upon you."
"... I made it into the shallows in one last surging flood. A little dazedly I wound up in hip-deep water, where I stepped off and pushed my board shoreward through the bubbly surf. That improbable ride gave me the sense of being an unlickable guy for the moment. I heisted my board to my hip, locked both arms around it and lugged it up the beach."
"... I never caught another wave anything like that one. And now with the birthdays piled up on my back, I know I never shall. But they cannot take that memory away from me. It is a golden one that I treasure, and I'm grateful that God gave it to me."
This probably was a 30 foot wave. His board was solid redwood, and I believe 12 feet long. My friend's mother still had her redwood board of the same era. It was 10 feet long, had no skeg and weight was 100 lbs! I was surfing the "Canoe Surf" on a 12 foot Balsa board covered with fiberglass, and weight about 35 lbs in front of the only hotel on the beach: the Royal Hawaiian. Some of my friends in S. Calif. were fooling with this new foam stuff and 9 foot boards! I tried the 10 foot solid redwood board--and it was a real struggle!