Streaks in Gel Coat

W

Wayne McCown

New member
The accent stripes (dark green: on hull sides and around cabin top) on my CD have streaks and faded spots. I can't seem to get them out. It seems that they are not simply surface oxidation, but embedded in the fiberglass. Any suggestions? Any products to recommend? (THANKS!)
 
Pardon me if this sounds "off," but I'm still wondering if it might be oxidation. Here's why I say that: The first oxidized boat I went to buff out (back in the 1990's), I fired up a Home Depot type buffer, put on some heavy duty rubbing compound and went at it. No dice. The shiny, gleaming boat I had envisioned just wasn't happening, and I couldn't figure out why.

Then the guy whose boat shop I was parked at came by and asked how it was going, and I explained. He came back out with this huge/heavy/metal Milwaukee buffer, put some of the same rubbing compound on and went to town on it. Next thing you know that section of my boat was gleaming! So all I had to do was do that to the other 99.5% of it :lol:

The secret was in the buffer, and in buffing it a bit longer toward the "until dry" stage. But mostly the buffer. Thereafter (at least, when I could move my arms again), I would always rent the same type of buffer for a day or two when I wanted to buff a boat. Eventually, I bought my own Makita 9227, and that's what I use now (with good results). So, I was just wondering if it might be possible that your boat would buff out nicely with the right buffer/compound. How were you buffing and with what?

(Now of course it could be as you say, something besides oxidation -- and for all I know you are a professional and have buffed out 47 antique cars; but given my first experience I just thought I'd throw this out there.)

Edited to add: Oh, and if your spots are like little white dots or "milky way" rows of dots connected together, it may be that the original gelcoat was a bit too thin in certain areas (or had "pimples"), and has thus worn through to the white below. If so, then you'd have to re-gelcoat or paint to get color back.
 
They may be faded or different composition gel coat. (The fiberglass layers are not colored--only the gel coat.). I was once told that some of the boats had defects when coming out of the mold, and that "new" gel coat was sprayed to cover this. I have found this in both the 25 and the Tom Cat 255 I owned. I have also seen instances where harsh solvents or acids have reacted with the gel coat and caused streaking.

I loaned one of my boats to a friend who had to go several hundred miles to tow his broken down trawler back 'home" the hull got a lot of tannin stains, so my friend sprayed the entire white part of the hull with muriatic acid--and got a bit on the colored gel coat. I was never able to buff this area out. If you wet sand, and then compound it, you may bring it back. I would just live with it.
 
I have a similar problem with the Burgundy gelcoat on the "eybrow" of our 2007 22CD. THere is an area that appears faded and slightly discolored. I have buffed it out, and it does improve quite a bit for a while, but eventually the 6" x 12" area reappears. I have also noticed that the gelcoat on the side accent stripes appears to have been applied very thin. The fenders have left minute scratches through to the white gelcoat underneath in a few spots, but not as a result of prolonged chafing. I have also noticed that where there are sharp angles such as the hard chine, there appears to have been slight shrinkage of the burgandy gelcoat that reveals the white below. It appears as a very fine line. Again, I think the burgandy may have been applied too thin. Nothing structural.
 
High speed buffer and a good pad. As the compound begins to dry out, put less pressure on it. It should come out shiny w/ no fading. Follow with a good quality wax. Hard work but worth it.

I get some of my stuff form a pro auto paint store, WESCO, but you can get 3M compounds on the web too.
 
We have a Shurhold model 3100 Dual action buffer that has a serious Velcro mounting arrangement so pads for polishing and waxing can be changed easily with out having to use tools. I wet a Velcro Shurhold sponge rubber pad and dab it with Aqua Blue 200 polish. I don't let the polish dry while I'm working the buffer. I keep dabbing more polish as needed and keep the pad damp. I keep a wet terry cloth towel to wipe the area down to check for progress. After I think I have removed the oxidation I wash the area with soap and water and let dry then I use a good wax but apply lightly let haze the buff off with dry terry cloth towel. I usually do a couple coats of the wax as if the surface is clean the wax part is easy. Afterwards you can use a microfiber or a clean sponge rubber pad to buff it out. I would be careful with some rubbing compounds with a gorilla type buffer. The Shurhold's dual action is not prone to leaving swirl marks. It has adjustable speeds and is a quality tool. I learned about these products from others on this site. For me they have worked well.
D.D.
 
localboy":jrhki8ij said:
Yeah, I don't use any "fast cut" stuff. I use a lighter 3M product (I'd have to go look at the bottle to get the name). Perfect for oxidation and fading etc. ANother option is the orbital buffers; Griot's Garage makes a good one I use on my old VW's. It is fool proof.

http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/griots+garage+random+orbital.do?sortby=ourPicks
Click to expand...

We have the Griots Garage random orbital and it works well.

The design keeps one from burning the gelcoat by having a mechanism which keeps one from being able to apply too much pressure. If one is trying to remove heavy oxidation (neglect), you might be better off with a traditional buffer for that step.
 
3M Finesse It, a buffing compound, has worked wonders for me.
3M Imperial Hand Glaze is a milder compound and is good too.
You can use them by hand if your joints are up to it or with a power buffer.
They are available at auto stores and auto paint shops.

Carpy
 
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