Steering is very stiff left and ok to right. Autopilot stall

[thataway]

It seems that the "torque tab" is over whelming the conversation about the problem. The stiff steering seemed to be the problem--is the steering too stiff, or is the pump under size for the size of ram (motor)?

I don't think that the auto pilot stalling is due to "incorrect" setting of the tab.

 

[serpa4]

Unless I’m mistaken, A right handed prop causes the stern to move starboard & bow to port. The tab does just the opposite counter balancing the prop effect by trying to move the stern to port & the bow to starboard. From my looking at your photos, I view it from the stern looking forward, as the front of the tab pointed as you say to the left (port) & the rear is to the right or (starboard), so the water hitting the tab is being forced against the starboard side, which is moving the stern to port & making the bow to go toward starboard, which is the proper set up & how my twins are set too. I think you might just have the tabs adjusted somewhat to far in the direction they are now, causing it had to steer to port at higher speeds & the auto pilot to overwork trying to correct to much tab set turn to starboard.

SO, your saying the tab moves the boat and I'm thinking the tab moves the motor. Ok, I think you might be right then. How can it move the motor to port if the steering wheel is not turning because I'm holding it. So the tab must steer the boat, not the motor.

A right had propeller will make the stern go to starboard and thus bow go to port.
The trim tab moving the boat to port in my case (not the motor) means it will try to move the stern to port and bow to starboard. This cancels it out and the boat goes straight.
I'll have to see if the boat goes straight when I let go of the wheel.
But if its hard to steer to port, then I need to make the stern go to starboard and thus bow go to port.

So, I can move the tab to point less to starboard and more to port which will make the boat bow go to port and stern to starboard hopefully helping me turn easier to port. Just make sure when I steer straight the boat goes straight.
At this point, I'll move the tab dead straight.

Here is a question. I have a 4 blade propeller. Will this make the boat turn to port more? Maybe when the propeller was installed they turned the tab too much to port compensate for the 4 blade?

 

[serpa4]

It seems that the "torque tab" is over whelming the conversation about the problem. The stiff steering seemed to be the problem--is the steering too stiff, or is the pump under size for the size of ram (motor)?

I don't think that the auto pilot stalling is due to "incorrect" setting of the tab.

I just looked at my pictures. I have a 1.0 L pump.

Garmin says, "Cruising applications only; for single engine outboard vessels less than 30' long
for cylinder sizes up to 10 cubic inches"

Guess I need to know my cylinder size.

 

[serpa4]

The SeaStar website says a Suzuki 200 4cyl needs a HC5345-3 cylinder.
The SeaStar HC5345-3 says it is: 8.34 Cubic inches in volume capacity.

This is an assumption since I don't know what ram cylinder I have.

On the Garmin site it says:
1.0 Liter pump:

Used for single-cylinder applications with cylinder volumes under ten cubic inches. Check, good.

A single-engine under 150 HP. Nope, I have 200 hp.

Used on Vessels under 25 feet in LOA. Nope, boat is Venture 26.

Not used in pressurized air systems. Check, good.

Used in cruising application only, no high-performance situations that include drastic and erratic movements. Check, not a race boat.

It is not recommended for fishing or applications that require holding heading while trolling at low speeds or operating in rough waters. Nope, don't care. But I do like to use it at hull speed.

It cannot be used in Verado or UFLEX Pro systems. Check, not applicable.

 

[ssobol]

From my Honda manual:

The trim tab compensates for ‘‘torque steer,’’ which is a reaction of the outboard motor to propeller rotation.

If uncompensated, torque steer would make the outboard motor tend to turn to one side.

When the trim tab is correctly adjusted, steering effort is equal in either direction.

If less effort is required to make left turns, move the back of the trim tab left.

If less effort is required to make right turns, move the back of the trim tab right.

Adjust the trim tab in small increments, and retest steering effort with the boat evenly loaded and running at cruising speed.

 

[serpa4]

From my Honda manual:

The trim tab compensates for ‘‘torque steer,’’ which is a reaction of the outboard motor to propeller rotation.

If uncompensated, torque steer would make the outboard motor tend to turn to one side.

When the trim tab is correctly adjusted, steering effort is equal in either direction.

If less effort is required to make left turns, move the back of the trim tab left.

If less effort is required to make right turns, move the back of the trim tab right.

Adjust the trim tab in small increments, and retest steering effort with the boat evenly loaded and running at cruising speed.

Sounds about in line with my thoughts and peoples comments. Next outing I will bring a ratchet and socket and move it around while on the water.
Then I will see if the autopilot also works better (it may be under sized)

 

[colbysmith]

I think most folks think in terms of where the tail of the tab is pointing in reference to port or starboard.



This image above is of my outboard's trim tab, looking up from the ground. As you can see it's set 3 points to starboard. In this position, it helps to counteract the RH props tendency to torque the outboard to starboard. The tab is pushing the outboard to port when in fast flowing water. Ie, on plane. When I'm at fast cruise, the torque on my outboard from the prop is countered by the tab. Thereby making no difference in pressure needed to steer right or left.

I had a .5L autopilot pump on my 22's 115. It would occasionally stall as it tried to correct for heading. (Pump moved the motor to slow, so kept moving it until hard over, and then would stall.)

I think you are on the right track to adjust the tab in increments while on the water, running at a planing speed you normally run at. Once you get it set to where your steering requires the same amount of pressure to turn right or left, then run your autopilot and see what happens. You also want to insure your hydraulics don't have any air in the system, and that all your hoses are kink free. Colby

 

[C-Wolfe]

I think Noro Lim got it right about where the confusion might be coming from on the port/starboard.
I see the trim tab as mini rudder to counteract the prop wash tendency to make the boat not track perfectly straight, not necessarily moving the actual engine.
I Also have the Garmin 1.0L pump, difference from yours is 22 ft boat, twin 50HP (100HP total) single ram-seastar HC- 5370-3 (8.3 to 9.9 cu.in.) So far, no issue with it goin hull speed or on. step. I even used the auto pilot with the kicker, 6hp on port side bracket using the main engines as rudder, work great.

 

[serpa4]

Yes, I call it pointing (the tip) to port, you all call it pointing (tail) to starboard. Same, same. Now I get it.
Yours is certainly pointed more than mine. I'll move mine around.
As for the auto pilot, I think 22 is also less beam plus 100ph less. I'll do the tab before I play with the autopilot, but think it's undersized. But if it works, I'll keep it. New pump is like $900!

 

[C-Wolfe]

Yes, 22 is less beam, less weight, wetted surface and les HP, but I think you have a steering cylinder with volume within spec. Should still work fine at low to medium speed, higher speed might start to overwhelm your auto pilot. If you decide to replace it, I think you have to replace the whole system since the compact use a different ECU. The 1.2, 2.0 and smart pump are interchangable.

 

[ssobol]

... I see the trim tab as mini rudder to counteract the prop wash tendency to make the boat not track perfectly straight, not necessarily moving the actual engine. ...

In my understanding, the trim tab is not designed to steer the boat, it is designed to balance the control forces required to turn the motor via the helm. It is not usually big enough to have an effect on the boat's heading.

 

[C-Wolfe]

... I see the trim tab as mini rudder to counteract the prop wash tendency to make the boat not track perfectly straight, not necessarily moving the actual engine. ...

In my understanding, the trim tab is not designed to steer the boat, it is designed to balance the control forces required to turn the motor via the helm. It is not usually big enough to have an effect on the boat's heading.

Maybe I'm wrong, maybe I'm explaining it wrong. Here's how I understand it.
The trim tab have no real effect on turning the boat from helm (or tiller) input, the trust of the prop and to a lesser effect the lower unit will turn the boat. Boat are control from the stern (or most of them), the hull wants to go straight. The prop give mostly a forward thrust and a little of sideway movement from rotation. This make the stern of the boat move sideway thus making the boat turn a bit or at least not tracking in a straight line. Here come the trim tab, trying to counteract the prop by applying an equal force on the opposite side, helping to track straighter.
Like I said, that's how I understand it and maybe I'm wrong. No one will hurt my feeling by saying I'm way off, I do appreciate been corrected when I get thing wrong.
Thanks