Southeast Alaska 2012 with Jay, Jo-Lee & the Hunkydory

Have enjoyed your travelogue especially since after 17 years of exploring Prince William Sound, the Kenai Fiords and Cook Inlet in my CD22, I am looking at possibly relocating to Juneau. In my limited research concerning that area, I have been especially interested in the Chichagof Wilderness. Your experiences related here have only heightened that interest for me, as it is the remote areas that seem to hold the greatest draw on me.

I haven't looked into it, but the Sirius XM weather receiver might be a solution for the lack of weather forecasts. I like to look at the 48 and 96 hour weather forecast maps if I can to get an idea of what the best and worst cases might be depending on how storms track.

I have solved a lot of condensation problems in my front berth by carpeting it. Still get some dripping from hatch and area around it but I leave a towel under that area. Also there is a balance between heat and ventilation that needs be maintained to dry a boat out in wet weather. The water carrying capacity is increased as temperature rises, so 32 degree air at 100% humidity when warmed to 70 degrees will be at a much lower relative humidity level and will be able to absorb moisture. So you have to somehow pull cold air in and heat it and then exhaust the warm moist air to dry the boat. Best case you would pull outside air right to your heater and exhaust warm moist air through a window or door. Since the Wallas doesn't do this you have to set up both an intake and exhaust elsewhere. For me in my 22 that is merely cracking both windows slightly (which only works if it is raining straight down or not at all). I have contemplated making a stiff plastic piece that would fit in the window opening so I could open the window while leaving a gap at the very top and the plastic would block the rain from entering - if I was going to be long on the water, I think I would try that. A Webasto or similar forced air heater that pulls in outside air and then discharges it in the cabin and V-berth is probably the best opiton if you are boating for extended periods in cold, wet weather.

Unlike about everyone else, I chose a Toyo cookstove/heater for my boat, instead of the Wallas. It has the same issue as the Wallas in not heating outside air, but it has worked great for me for the last 10 years. Unfortunately, Toyo quit making them. I asked the local Toyo guys about it and they did not know why it was discontinued as they had never had to repair even one of them.

Didn't meant to ramble on, so good luck, safe passages and keep the missives from SE coming. You have many eager followers.
 
J&J- first off happy birthday J! I couldn't sleep last night and started reading your logs here at 0200. Finished about 0430. Captivating writing. I just returned from a trip delivering a 55' seiner from Sitka to Seward. We were kept in port for 2 weeks during the same time you were locked in up north. We had to be content with working on the boat to get it seaworthy- which coincidentally took 2 weeks.....No hot springs for us- just harbor showers! But caught that decent weather window on Thursday/Friday crossing the Gulf. Whew! My newly aquired 22 Classic is at my place on Prince of Wales island, and I am itching to cover the same ground you have, so thanks for the insightful narrative and pix. I perused some of your albums, but didn't see much of how your boat is set up for your cruise- did I miss something? So, uh, bucket or porta-potty? Awaiting your next installment with baited breath. Aloha, Steve.
 
Nainu,  I think the Sirus Weather a good ideal for the remote location forecast & your condensation problem assessment good also.  We do have a solar powered exhaust fan above the Wallas & with the windows cracked & air drawn from our sump which is allowed where it's situated between the cabins &  cockpit it does help, but when it was continual rain with highs of only 40 degrees not by much.  Thanks for the comments & glad to hear I'm telling about an area that is of special interest to you.

Jody,  thanks for the BD wishes & I'll keep the stories coming, which is easy on such a day as today.

Steve,  sure happy to hear I created some interesting reading for you.  I'll bet a big Whew!! upon reaching Seward.  Congratulations on the CD22 Classic.  You sure live in a great place for it.  We do have the Porta Potty & though I think there are some photos in my albums from past trips showing set up, I will take some more of the present & post them.  Only have the IPad to post know & the this site is not set for posting photos with it, so will when back to wifi access.

Jay  
 
5-31-12

With a final shower & a last chance for a while grocery shopping, we shoved off the Sitka Dock at 11AM.    Back north through Olga, Whitestone & Neva Narrows to Salisbury Sound & then inland from the outer coast through Sergius Rapids to beautiful fully protected,  intricate accessed, Little Bear Bay, which to our surprise upon entering found a small sailboat already there anchored.  This will be our first shared anchorage thus far this year.   

Earlier in the day while entering Whitestone Narrows saw a sow bear & her two large cubs on the bank.  First bears we've ever seen in this area & hoping they are the first of many as we cruise by the north & east side of Baranof Island.

Came through the Sergius Narrows Rapids on the start of a flood tide by a route we haven't done before.  Normally we go through the main marked channel, but this time decided to take the Canoe Passage route.  Was easy to negotiate & a fun ride though did fire up the other motor for more control.  I had actually planned on going through at slack tide, but the Garmin Gps gave different times for slack under tides then current.  Ended up with the current tables giving the right time & the tide table being off by almost two hours with me choosing to go with tide & that's exactly why I don't buy lottery tickets.  If you can't win on a 50/50, no use trying the many million to one.

As we sat here looking out the boat cabin this evening while eating dinner & afterwards relaxing & enjoying the 360 degree view, couldn't help but notice the little sailboat with its beautiful lines, but only tiny little portholes to look out & then thinking, they also have difficulty seeing forward when underway & most must steer out in the open weather.  Makes me wonder,  just what is the draw?  It can't be sailing , because it's to seldom their under sail.  One thing very positive I have noticed about them is they are the boats I most often see in the very remote places we prefer.   Perhaps, its their almost resistance free movement through the water creating great milage & range coupled with seaworthiness thats the draw.

35 miles today  & 914 total

6-1-12

Was raining when we went to sleep last night & to our surprise sunshine this morning.  We slept in to 8AM & the sail boat didn't so it was gone before us.  All 67 miles today on one motor slowly cruising along enjoying the wildlife & beautiful scenery.  Nine bears, uncountable eagles, & several whales.  On the other hand the cruise boats are now out & about too, but for the whole day maybe a dozen other boats, think we can deal with that.

Route today was out Peril Strait to Chatham Strait & then south along the east coast of Baranof Island to Takatz Bay.   Takatz Bay is stunningly beautiful & shaped like a fishhook with the best anchorage right at the hook.  We have been in all of the bays from where Peril Strait enters Chatham Strait to Red Bluff Bay & other than Red Bluff Bay this is the jewel of them all.  Today along with its normal beauty it outdid itself by having a whale great us in the entrance, then at almost the head a mama with her calf .  In the tight quarters they circled us from just a few yards away.  Actually had us somewhat concerned not knowing if she might go into protection mode or not.  Great experience, but would not have got as close as we did on purpose.  Then as we were checking where to anchor spotted a sow bear & cub on the shoreline just off where we had the whale experience shortly before.  To say the least it's been quite a day!!  

We'er now anchored in soft mud in only six feet of water with a tide that should drop eight more feet by 6am.  Motors & trim tabs are up.   We haven't  done this since Shoalwater Pass (cove) in the Misty Fjords National Monument in 2004.  We should be back afloat by 8 to 9 tomorrow morning.

The other big surprise of the day was looking at my IPad, which I use also for navigation & seeing it had AT&T service just as we were entering Takatz Bay  & still have three bars all the way at its head, now & I was thinking maybe a couple weeks before posting again.

67 miles today & 981 total
 
Just checked water depth again & it's 12 feet. Thought maybe we wouldn't be on the hard in the morning so rechecked tide tables. It will be a 17.5 foot difference between the high tonight & the low in the morning, so yep, well be sitting on the bottom just before 5AM or so.

The water temperature here is 38 degrees from the melting snow. Out on Chatham Strait it's 45 degrees.

Jay
 
Happy B-Day Jay! Hope you continue to have sunny days. I have never gone on the hard (or soft mud) while at anchor. Do you wake up or even notice it if you are sleeping? I am thinking I might wake up do to the change in motion.

It is amazing how good cell coverage is getting.


Steve
 
Steve, thanks for the happy BD wishes.

We have only sat on the bottom once & that, like I said was years ago, but I do remember waking up. This time will be again setting the alarm to check things out before we settle in. Just remembered we did once not on purpose in Red Bluff Bay in 2010 too. A guy from a yacht who had just been charged by a bear came over to tell us about it just as we settled in the mud.

Our sunny day turned back to rain late this afternoon, but according to the forecast things are looking up with some blue sky days in the near future.

Jay
 
6-2-12

Got up at 4AM with us firmly aground & the tide dropped 5 feet more.  Back to afloat & on our way by 8:30 AM.  Was kinda strange walking around the boat & Mokai with the water so far away.  Several deer came down by us full of energy.  They were chasing each other around & that was good to see with a obvious hard winter just finished up.  On this side of Baranof Island there is still snow in places down to the waterline.  No bears around us while grounded, but did see the bear with a cub in the same little inlet as the night before.  This time we got close enough in the Hunkydory with JoLee driving for me to get a close (35 yrd) photo.  Going out Takatz Bay saw a single whale up very close to the rocky shore.  It was switching directions in very shallow dives, at times on its back & sides with its flippers out of the water.  Don't know if they do this, but sure appeared to be rubbing itself on the rocks.  The water there wasn't very deep but it was straight down to the bottom  & the rocky shore smooth.

From Takatz Bay made for Warm Spring Bay a short cruise down the Island.  At the head of Warm Springs Bay is a few summer homes & a Alaska State no charge dock on a first come usage.  By the dock is a large waterfall & a trail that goes to a unique  hot springs that is very close to a roaring river, the same one creating the falls into the bay  head & slightly further on a mountain lake with the snows around it the source of the river.  The hot spring was to hot for JoLee &  almost for me,  but was able to stay in long enough to get well relaxed.  The public hot tubs with water from the springs that can be adjusted for individual comfort have not been put into service yet.  Last time we were here in 2010, JoLee & I spent an hour or more in one of them.  Was great to get off the boat & go for a walk on a nice trail today in such a setting.   Beautiful bay to rain forest to alpine lake & then back to snug little boat.

At the dock with us are mostly sailboats with the remainder a fishing boat & large trawler cruiser.  The largest is a two masted schooner here all the way from Australia.  It is all trimmed in polished wood & the most beautiful one we have seen,  making for a marvelous combination of beauty & ability to tackle the very rough seas of the open ocean or the passages here in Southeast Alaska with equal grace & flair.

11 miles today & 992 total
 
It's 57 degrees out & mostly sunny & flat water with a  swell so gentle it's hardly felt.  It's our 44th Wedding Anniversary & we'er on our the way between Warm Springs Bay & Red Bluff Bay at only 5 mph.  Red bluff Bay  being our favorite in all Southeast Alaska, so the perfect spot to anchor tonight.

Jay
 
Happy Anniversary! How great that you get to spend it in your favorite place! (Assume you planned that, you ol' romantic. 8) )

We'll make a toast to you two this evening. :cocktail

Best wishes,
Jim & Joan
 
Happy anniversary Jay and Jo Lee. 44 years together is awesome. Takes teamwork which you demonstrate in abundance. Many more years to come. I am enjoying your voyage. Thank you! George
 
Jim & George, thanks & Jim yes, Red Bluff Bay was planned, but my plans don't generally turn out this well.

6-3-12

Red Bluff Bay is accessed from Chatham Strait on the east coast of Baranof Island just inside the start of the Southern Baranof Island wilderness area & is every bit as beautiful as we remembered, as is the numbers & variety of wildlife.  Bears aplenty,  goats on the mountain sides, many varieties of ducks & shorebirds, geese, eagles, hawks in the air & on the water along with seals.  No fishing here this year yet, but from past experience know its great too.   Its unique right from the entrance with its Islands off Chatham Strait & the brick red bare mountains for which it's named.  From the entrance there's a narrow inlet about 3 miles long that widens in places with islands & then through a very narrow gap to the inner bay, that has a huge waterfall  just off to the side past the inner entrance.   To the southwest there's a dominate Matterhorn shaped mountain with other large snow covered peaks all around with a inner circle of cliffs down which flows literally hundreds of waterfalls.  At the head of the bay is a large meadow area with a fast flowing river on the south side.  

We anchored in a little nook with a stern shore tie so we could keep the view we wanted of the meadow area.  It is the first time  we tried this & it worked just as we had hoped.  Then it was off in the Mokai to look for bears & other wildlife.  Saw two bears,  a large scar faced male  & a youngster not long from its mother, that got to close to the big guy.  He chased  him for more than a half mile & the little one was running for its life.  Last I saw they had disappeared  into the trees.  Hope the little fellow got away.

25 miles today & 1017 total

6-4-12

Another fantastic day in Red Bluff Bay.  Perfect weather with the temperature 65 degrees, bright blue sky  & zero wind.  A fine start to the day with JoLee  spotting a bear with cub on the shore close to the boat, while making morning coffee. Then I took the Mokai  up the river which  I videoed along  with some very close up photos of bears.  One large bear I was close to laid down on a rock, yawned, put its head on one of its front legs just like a dog will do & appeared to doze.   This was with me in the Mokai moving slowing around on the water only about 20 to 40 yrds away.  The river had flooded since our last time here in 2010 removing the large tree that had prevented me from going very far up stream in the past.  With it gone,  I got the best Mokai river run yet, threading my way up riffles & rapids  & around huge fallen trees of which some create their own sand & gravel bars.  Much of this along with the bears, I got on video.  Late this afternoon there were five large bears out in the meadow eating sedge grass.  Its very entertaining watching them react to each other.   Most always the bears reaction to a surprise is to run, then stand up to get better view of what surprised it.  Think possibly other than defending a cub or food source, the reason for attack after surprise is being so close they don't want to turn their back on whatever the surprise.

The only down side to this place is the number of other boaters that think it's great too.   In the first 30 some days of this trip we only saw one other cruise boat & tonight there are nine of them anchored here ranging from 36 to 150 feet & us only a valiant 22. This place is Alaska sized so it doesn't really feel that crowded & I definitely had the river to myself other than the bears.

Jay
 
Just spent the last hour out in the front of the entrance to Red Bluff Bay watching whales & now starting further down the Baranof wilderness coast to Gut Bay where if it looks good will anchor.

Today started out with rain & still a light drizzle with temperature of 50 degrees.  Feels good even with open windows & the Wallas on low heat.

The rugged east coast of Baranof Island has the most visible waterfalls in all of Southeast.   Very spectacular going down the coast about a mile off shore. 

If you check the SPOT tracks you'll find them sig saggy for a while.  Having another super day.

Jay
 
65 degrees? That must feel almost tropical for you after the last month! Heck, that was warmer than Friday Harbor today. 8) Hope the weather has turned for the good for you. Watch out for those bears - you know how they can be so hungry this time of year... well, any time of year.

Keep those posts a comin'.

Best wishes,
Jim
 
6-5-12

We are now anchored for the night in a very small inlet in the southwest side of Gut Bay,  Southern Baranof Island Wilderness  Area.  Went through a very  narrow 30 feet wide 4 feet deep channel to access.  Must do this without the help of gps, as their position shown on charts isn't accurate.  The channel will dry in the morning on the low tide so will set the alarm to leave at 6AM.  Rain quit late morning & clouds are about gone tonight, maybe another blue sky day as we continue down the Island coast tomorrow.

4500 foot Mt Ada with its pinnacle peaks rises directly to our south from the inlet in which we are anchored  & the rest of Gut Bay is surrounded except for the entrance & head by huge cliffs.  They are so high much of the sunlight is blocked & the snow is still here in many places down to the water line.  I mentioned to  JoLee, any bears living here must be dumb to have chosen this place to live or maybe extremely smart to have survived it.   Did see one big bear along the shore line, but he disappeared quick when I tried to get close enough for photos.  For sure a smart one,  being hunting season just ended & he's still alive.

36 miles today & 1053 total

6-6-12

We woke up with out the alarm at 4:30, so decided to do an even earlier than planned crossing of the shallow inlet,  beating the lowering tide by a wide margin.  On the way out of Gut Bay saw a sow bear & two small cubs crossing a very steep snow patch high on what most would call a cliff face.  Where a bear might be or how they will react when confronted can be hard to predict, which makes it all the more interesting to be in their territory.

Tonight we'er anchored in Patterson Bay in another very remote bay head in the Southern Baranof Wilderness, behind a small island with two rivers entering on either side of a beautiful meadow with cliffs rising up from the rivers  outside  edges.  The river to the west pours out from a crevice  creating a waterfall  about 300 yds  up from the bay.  The other larger river goes up a valley area making a sharp turn to the west with another large many pinocle peaked mountain dominating the view.  On a sunny day like today the bay head is so stunningly beautiful no words, photos or video can do it justice & that is the very reason we'er  here anchored tonight & doing this trip.  Many places have to be seen & experienced to really be appreciated.   

There averaged a whale about every three miles coming down the Baranof Island coast today with several different dall porpoise pods about the boat.  Also saw several fish boils that appeared to be small salmon & many sea lions.   No other cruise boats, but did hear the National Geographic ship "Seabird" giving warning of their entrance into Red Bluff Bay.

JoLee & I made a very enjoyable cruise about the area where we are  anchored in the Mokai & it was warm enough to do a shower with stove heated water on the bow of the boat.

Topped off our main fuel tanks from spare containers & have used 25 gallons to go the 201 miles from Sitka.  Great to see we'er averaging 8 mpg.  If this could be maintained we would have over a 700 mile range.

Lots of bear sign on shore, but so far no bears seen here.

26 miles today & 1079 total
 
Jay

I'm so glad to see you doing most of your cruising at displacement hull speed. I've always found the benefits of coastal cruising at this speed to be enormous. You actually end up seeing so many more things of interest than what you would normally miss traveling at a faster speed. I've also noticed when you realize you are not tied into finding the next fuel dock as often that the daily rhythm of the trip becomes more relaxing and more a sense of exploration than a passage from point A to point B.
Just as you've noticed that the bear sightings seemed to be few at the beginning of your trip we also noticed the same here, that is until the last week were all of a sudden it seems like they are having a convention in our area.
Will you be stopping a Little Port Walter on your way to Port Alexander. I've always enjoyed stopping there and talking to the people at the fishery research station.
 
AJF, yes, so many thing good about going slower. Didn't stop at Little Port Walter, maybe if we return that way we will.

Jody, big difference between the old & new Mokai on the rivers. Have gone places safely I wouldn't even have tried before.


6-7-12

Left Patterson Bay this morning at 4:30 am headed to Port Alexander the little isolated fishing community of about 30 people on the very southern end of Baranof Island.   In 2010 we continued on around Cape Ommaney to Sitka, completing the trip around this Island with much trepidation.  Now it's decision, decision, decision time.  Do we go south around Cape Decision, go against my own advice & once again do Cape Ommaney to Sitka or go back north up Chatham Strait To Red Bluff Bay again, then over to Admiralty Island.  Will not decide till tomarow.

Very little wind today, but good sized swells to ease over the closer we came to the open ocean.  On the way here checked small Port Armstrong & it has a large resort & Oyster Farm, then over to Conclusion Bay where Capt Vancouver in 1793 finished his exploration of the Inland Passage area.  We couldn't find the monument written to commentate this advent, but did find an old stone carn in the area it was supposed to be & a sunken 200 foot ship exposed with the low tide along with a very near to it bear on the shoreline.  The mostly blue sky's turned to clouds & rain about two hours after our arrival & it's still raining now.

No activity going on at the dock, whereas in 2010 during the fishing season there was very little room at the dock with the continue coming & going of fishing boats both charter & trollers & the charter daily catch being taken care of & preparations made for the next days run.     Also the barge with a tiny store & fuel for sale is not here.

Was thinking today about all the coves & bays we have explored & some anchored & how words to describe them just finally run into repetition. They are most all beautiful, picturesque, stunning, gorgeous, awesome, fantastic, breathtaking, surreal,  awe-inspiring,  & then their combinations & then still not adequate after awhile.   Then  make one bad decision & all this glory ness  in these same places  could easily start the word search all over with perilous, stark, lonely, foreboding, hazardous, windswept, bone chilling, dark &  life threatening or onto life  extinguishing to ones end.  A balance must be maintained between the enjoyment of the adventure & the hazards  to be avoided or their won't be another adventure to be enjoyed.  JoLee & I have made a lifetime out of these choices with very few regrets left over for the rocking chair,  when that time if it does, comes.

I'm going try & post this here in the community center called "The Bear Den" will also try to post photos.

Jay
 
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