SO WHAT DID YOU DO WITH OR ON YOUR C-DORY TODAY??
- Thread starter TyBoo
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colbysmith
Active member
In the last month or so. Installed new autopilot. Replaced second radio with newer DSC/GPS radio. Replaced one VHF Antenna. Pulled out Webasto heater, took apart, cleaned, reinstalled. Installed swivel mount for one of my downriggers. (Will do other side later.) Pretty much ready for the winter season to end! Colby
CC Rider
Member
Over the last few boating seasons, I got tired of the finicky Wallas stove/heater. It didn't work very well as a heater or as a stove. I had taken it apart numerous times and replaced the wick, only to find that by the next season, the wick had hardened up to the point where the kerosene fuel would not absorb into it. So....what to do. I liked the idea of a dedicated heater and first thought about the knock-off diesel heaters from China. Certainly a lot less expensive than an Espar or Webasto, but I didn't trust them on a boat. Another option was a Wallas heater, as many people on this site had liked them, but I didn't like the top and bottom connections to them, and of course I had already had experience with the Wallas name. I purchased an Espar diesel heater from a truck parts vendor locally and so began the next problem of where to mount it so I could use the exising hole in the hull for the exhaust, and run the 60mm ducting.
I found that behind the fridge and up under the gunnel was going to work if I could only fabricate some kind of mount for it. This area has runs of wiring and steering hoses so I figured I also should shroud the heater somehow. I ended up cutting 2 8x8 aluminum boxes in half lengthways and using them as mounts/shroud. The unit fit perfect and the aluminum should protect the wiring/hoses. (After running the heater, it's surprising how cool the plastic housing stays - it only gets warm to the touch.) I had to cut a half an inch off each side of the mounting plate that came with the heater in order for it to fit.
Air inlet side of heater: (More pics in my album)
I also chose this location because I had found a nice unused space between the underneath side of the sink and the under side of the fiberglass helm seat support that I could run the 60mm ducting. This worked out quite well and then I thought it would be really nice to run some ducting to the V-berth. So, I bought a 60 mm Y connection and with some fiddling and moving of wires, was able to fit it onto the outlet of the heater.
Y-connection:
I mounted the heater control beside the helm, so that it could be easily reached from inside the V-berth for those cooler mornings at anchor.. :wink:
Once fully installed, I turned the heater on and WOW. This thing really puts out heat. It is a little noisy at first (sounds like a small jet engine coming up to revs), but after a few minutes settles down to a low-pitched whine. Not completely quiet, but it is a forced-air heater after all......
I have no more smell of kerosene in the boat now, (the Wallas stove/heater was kerosene only - not diesel) and I find that kerosene is much more pungent than diesel. We really can't smell the diesel tank (located where the Wallas fuel jug was) at all.
The next issue was the cooktop. I purchased an Origo alcohol stove and cut the top of the molded fiberglass galley for it to fit. No problem. Time will tell if the Origo will suffice, but it has to be more reliable than the Wallas was, and we still have the induction cooktop when at shore or when we run the Honda 1000 generator, as well as a propane canister barbeque and a canister propane stove.
Wallas - don't let the door hit you on the way out!
I found that behind the fridge and up under the gunnel was going to work if I could only fabricate some kind of mount for it. This area has runs of wiring and steering hoses so I figured I also should shroud the heater somehow. I ended up cutting 2 8x8 aluminum boxes in half lengthways and using them as mounts/shroud. The unit fit perfect and the aluminum should protect the wiring/hoses. (After running the heater, it's surprising how cool the plastic housing stays - it only gets warm to the touch.) I had to cut a half an inch off each side of the mounting plate that came with the heater in order for it to fit.
Air inlet side of heater: (More pics in my album)
I also chose this location because I had found a nice unused space between the underneath side of the sink and the under side of the fiberglass helm seat support that I could run the 60mm ducting. This worked out quite well and then I thought it would be really nice to run some ducting to the V-berth. So, I bought a 60 mm Y connection and with some fiddling and moving of wires, was able to fit it onto the outlet of the heater.
Y-connection:
I mounted the heater control beside the helm, so that it could be easily reached from inside the V-berth for those cooler mornings at anchor.. :wink:
Once fully installed, I turned the heater on and WOW. This thing really puts out heat. It is a little noisy at first (sounds like a small jet engine coming up to revs), but after a few minutes settles down to a low-pitched whine. Not completely quiet, but it is a forced-air heater after all......
I have no more smell of kerosene in the boat now, (the Wallas stove/heater was kerosene only - not diesel) and I find that kerosene is much more pungent than diesel. We really can't smell the diesel tank (located where the Wallas fuel jug was) at all.
The next issue was the cooktop. I purchased an Origo alcohol stove and cut the top of the molded fiberglass galley for it to fit. No problem. Time will tell if the Origo will suffice, but it has to be more reliable than the Wallas was, and we still have the induction cooktop when at shore or when we run the Honda 1000 generator, as well as a propane canister barbeque and a canister propane stove.
Wallas - don't let the door hit you on the way out!
Chris, Looks like you did a nice job. Glad to be warm, eh?
I just replace my Ray218 VHF with the one I purchased on Ebay. NOt exactly what I expected, but the radio tech checked it out and it worked, (TX and Rcv) so wired it in. and the hailer didn't work. A bent pin on the multi plug. Bypassed that, the Squelch was a little fussy to start, but works now so there I am. Also pulled the Radar tower off, (the old ScanStrut one had pretty much flaked all the powder coating off. It is at the Powder coaters now, and and will be all shiny and pretty and done by a guy who does coating for the US Coast Guard and done in the same way (3 layers) and same color white as they use. Goes back on this coming weekend.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I just replace my Ray218 VHF with the one I purchased on Ebay. NOt exactly what I expected, but the radio tech checked it out and it worked, (TX and Rcv) so wired it in. and the hailer didn't work. A bent pin on the multi plug. Bypassed that, the Squelch was a little fussy to start, but works now so there I am. Also pulled the Radar tower off, (the old ScanStrut one had pretty much flaked all the powder coating off. It is at the Powder coaters now, and and will be all shiny and pretty and done by a guy who does coating for the US Coast Guard and done in the same way (3 layers) and same color white as they use. Goes back on this coming weekend.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Roger, I can sneak in under a 10 foot door, but remember, I lowered my bunks 3 inches. What are you mounting your radar on? I have a Stainless Scan Strut that is about 4 inches but I elected to go back to my Aluminum, powder coated one that I am re-doing the powder coating on. It will be better than new, and will be isolated from the stainless bolts and washers with nylon washers and bushings.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
PaulNBriannaLynn
New member
I haven't had much time to boat lately, but I have been busy working on it. Our boat was not originally sold with a heater, so to keep the wife happy, I decided to install some sort of heat. I'd thought about installing a forced air system, but I really don't need that much heat just enough to keep the chill off where we live. I found a Wallas stove in Florida from another C-brat a couple weeks ago for a reasonable price. I know this stove seems to frustrate a lot of people but we actually really liked our Wallas stove for the 5 years we owned our previous c-dory. A couple of times it would not fire over the years and that was due to low voltage on the batteries. We try to run it at least once a month to keep fresh fuel rotated through it. That's a killer in any diesel system.
So I picked up the Wallas and immediately called Scan Marine to have them send me a new exhaust hose, and fiberglass sock, and through fitting for the exhaust. They recommended a 4' exhaust hose, and said that c-dory only specs a 3' hose, but in their opinion that boat should have a 4' hose to have the proper upward loop in it. I also had them send me a white plastic vent grill, since our boat was never spec'd with a heater it didn't have any intake vent cut yet in the cabinet, and our boat has the fiberglass molded interior.
I went to the hardware store, and picked up some drill bits and a half dozen jigsaw blades. 30 feet of 8 guage wire, some blue tape, and plastic masking to mask off the interior of the boat (I hate fiberglass dust)! After a day or two of cutting, and many jigsaw blades later, I had the holes cut, and they turned out great. The molded fiberglass interior is not the easiest thing to cut large holes in but its doable. A few days ago, everything was mounted and it looks like a professional job, I was pleased with myself.
At this point I discovered a water leak inside the cabinet with the water tank. I could not determine if it was the hose or the tank that was leaking so I took the entire tank out to test it for leaks outside the boat. I decided all the hoses were brittle and also the foot pump was probably due for replacement. I already had a spare baby whale foot pump I had purchased on Amazon months ago. Everything is stripped out of the boat now. The tank turned out to be in good shape, and I have 20 feet of 3/4" O.D. hose, so I'm ready to put everything back in. That's where I'm at today. I'd like to get everything back installed and tested over the next couple of evenings, and get out on the water this weekend. The plan is to head out to Sapelo island and the Darien waterfront for the weekend, and a good shake down cruise before Hontoon island. :thup
So I picked up the Wallas and immediately called Scan Marine to have them send me a new exhaust hose, and fiberglass sock, and through fitting for the exhaust. They recommended a 4' exhaust hose, and said that c-dory only specs a 3' hose, but in their opinion that boat should have a 4' hose to have the proper upward loop in it. I also had them send me a white plastic vent grill, since our boat was never spec'd with a heater it didn't have any intake vent cut yet in the cabinet, and our boat has the fiberglass molded interior.
I went to the hardware store, and picked up some drill bits and a half dozen jigsaw blades. 30 feet of 8 guage wire, some blue tape, and plastic masking to mask off the interior of the boat (I hate fiberglass dust)! After a day or two of cutting, and many jigsaw blades later, I had the holes cut, and they turned out great. The molded fiberglass interior is not the easiest thing to cut large holes in but its doable. A few days ago, everything was mounted and it looks like a professional job, I was pleased with myself.
At this point I discovered a water leak inside the cabinet with the water tank. I could not determine if it was the hose or the tank that was leaking so I took the entire tank out to test it for leaks outside the boat. I decided all the hoses were brittle and also the foot pump was probably due for replacement. I already had a spare baby whale foot pump I had purchased on Amazon months ago. Everything is stripped out of the boat now. The tank turned out to be in good shape, and I have 20 feet of 3/4" O.D. hose, so I'm ready to put everything back in. That's where I'm at today. I'd like to get everything back installed and tested over the next couple of evenings, and get out on the water this weekend. The plan is to head out to Sapelo island and the Darien waterfront for the weekend, and a good shake down cruise before Hontoon island. :thup
Getting ready for Hontoon trip. Had friend wash boat yesterday. Started on my upgrade of Lithium battery system. I put in. single 100 amp hour (usable) LiFePO$ battery before the Fall River trips to run the two chest type refer/freezer units. I ordered a second 100 amp LIFePO4 ion battery, (total of 200 amps usable--weight total 2 x 30=60 lbs; this would require over 300 # of conventional batteries). Fit up under V berth. Adding a 2000 Watt Pure sine wave inverter to run the microwave and induction burner for cooking. There is now a Sterline Battery to Battery charger, which takes the output of the Honda alternator from the "start battery" and boosts it up to the voltage needed to charge the Li ion batteries. (14.4 volts), without any risk to the flooded lead acid batteries. plus a remote for the inverter (amps drawn, amps out 110V,, control of inverter/80 amp charger on or off for each function. Already have the Victron 700, plus a second system for the 2 Flooded lead acid house batteries. Today we started project by running the wiring, and cutting cooling vents/computer fan, with snap disc, to start the fan at 100*F. Specific posts to follow, as the upgrade comes to completion.
Got our C-Dory 22 about a year and a half ago. It was a donation boat and had been sitting in the water for several years unattended. I got it basically cleaned up and running after we got it, but just have been busy with life and other boats to really bring it up to snuff. Finally decided I need to make it "cruise ready", so yesterday I pulled the water tank, all hoses and the pump. Replaced all the hoses and pump and rinsed out the tank and put it all back together. Also varnished the dish holder and table trim (although that wasn't yesterday). Next item, forward hatch repair and cleaning up the cushions, and getting the name on her, and then we'll be in business! Not today, however, since it is snowing!
Pacificcoast101
Member
I replaced all three batteries last week. My fishfinder was not locking onto the bottom the last time out. I looked up the problem and found it to be low voltage. I checked my batteries and they were indeed a little low. Everything worked great the next day. Now, all we need is for the storms of this winter to go away so we can get back to shooting underwater photos again. It's been a slow year.
I wish I had some beautiful photos like Phil! Well, the 2nd LiFePO4 100 amp battery is installed, with 300 amp fuse, switch, run to both chest freezer/refers, and the heavy cables, with lots of lugs to the Victron 2000 Watt Pure Sine Wave inverter. Only about a day late....So I get all the connections double checked (200 amps is a lot of power). The 120 V AC , now feeds the inverter, with its automatic transfer switch The 120 V AC should feed thru, and the inverter should....invert. Nada. No battery charger. No lights at all., I check voltages. All fine, except no 120 V AC out from the inverter. NADA--dead. I call the vender (Battle Born batteries, who programed it to charge the LiFePO4 battery profile). They asked a number of questions--yes I confirmed every thing is as it should be. Time ticks by. They are talking about sending the unit back. Finally I asked if they would give me the direct line to their consultant at Victron--no problem--they gave me 3 numbers. Justin answered at the first ring. He talked me thru several other diagnostic items. Then asked how I set the "DIP" Switches. I replied, since the vender had programed it, I had not changed them....pull the cover off while he is on the phone (the inverter is under the starboard V berth--and not easy to take out the screws (dropped one). Told "Justin" what the settings were. Wrong! Just changing two dip switches and it sprung to life. Every thing works!
I left a message for the person at Battle Born (His e-mail had come in to Victron when I was on the phone with Victron), He asked did I bump the dip switches when I installed. Nope--I didn't even know where they were...Hmm--maybe someone changed them when they "programed" the unit???
Sooo. I am a day behind. But it works. Microwave, induction burners. voltage and amperage boost if needed???.. Charges from the outboard alternator.
Moral, when you get older things don't get done as fast, but they do get done--and although I made a few mistakes on the install, which wasted my time--I got it all right, still. And look for the DIP switches! Don't assume because someone "programed" it, it was done right...
I left a message for the person at Battle Born (His e-mail had come in to Victron when I was on the phone with Victron), He asked did I bump the dip switches when I installed. Nope--I didn't even know where they were...Hmm--maybe someone changed them when they "programed" the unit???
Sooo. I am a day behind. But it works. Microwave, induction burners. voltage and amperage boost if needed???.. Charges from the outboard alternator.
Moral, when you get older things don't get done as fast, but they do get done--and although I made a few mistakes on the install, which wasted my time--I got it all right, still. And look for the DIP switches! Don't assume because someone "programed" it, it was done right...
colbysmith
Active member
-Replaced my cabin lights with new LED lights. (The old ones were the original incandescent that I had put LED replacement bulbs in. But the switches were going bad.) The new lights have both white and red LED's.
- Installed a Victron 712 Battery Monitor.
- Replaced the port Trim Tab actuator, which required removing and reinstalling the fuel tank. I'll do the starboard actuator tomorrow if it doesn't rain...
- Installed a Victron 712 Battery Monitor.
- Replaced the port Trim Tab actuator, which required removing and reinstalling the fuel tank. I'll do the starboard actuator tomorrow if it doesn't rain...
Had new Interstate RV/Marine Deep Cycle Batteries replaced. The Stbd one is a shoe horn fit. Started working on the towing charger system... and now I'm looking fora new electronics technician as the one I had set up to do the work just took a job in Alaska.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I have been scrambling with the boat projects that had to be parted out due to losing the electronics tech that I had scheduled to do several projects. I had some electronics work scheduled at Rodgers Marine in Portland, then they called and put me off until mid-May, so I scheduled with Thor, but when he was sent to Alaska I started parting out the jobs, called a local place and then started piecing it all together, some of it here , some there. I got home from Portland late last night and just got the last one finished -- at Rodgers Marine Electronics.
One of the projects was to set up a charging system for my boat batteries while I am towing, (Toad charging, in RV vernacular). I have towed long distances and slept in my boat many times. I had always worried about using the batteries and not being able to recharge them for 2 or 3 days at a time. Should have put in the TOAD system long time ago.
The other main project was to finish the installation of my new MOB+ electronic engine kill switch. I had built the brackets and got the mounting all figured, but I don't do wiring so I had Rodgers do that part. Nice to have that all finished and operational as about 98% of my boating is single handed.
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
One of the projects was to set up a charging system for my boat batteries while I am towing, (Toad charging, in RV vernacular). I have towed long distances and slept in my boat many times. I had always worried about using the batteries and not being able to recharge them for 2 or 3 days at a time. Should have put in the TOAD system long time ago.
The other main project was to finish the installation of my new MOB+ electronic engine kill switch. I had built the brackets and got the mounting all figured, but I don't do wiring so I had Rodgers do that part. Nice to have that all finished and operational as about 98% of my boating is single handed.
Harvey
SleepyC:moon
Finally completed a window cover for towing. Covers the front windows, ties the bottom to the midship cleats and the top hangs from hooks up under the brow, and ties via a line around the cabin top, up under the lip all the way back to the handhold above the cabin door. Should keep the bugs of the glass and protect from any flying gravel. It was made with a front an back piece, making a pocket for each window where I can add some foam cushion (currently 3 mm yoga pad.
Found a loose HIN tag in the process. That will be covered on a separate thread.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Found a loose HIN tag in the process. That will be covered on a separate thread.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
colbysmith
Active member
Hi Harvey,
I've thought a few times about making windshield covers, but never have. Can you take pictures of what you made? Thanks. Colby
I've thought a few times about making windshield covers, but never have. Can you take pictures of what you made? Thanks. Colby
srbaum
Member
The new to me Cape Cruiser named OSPREY has successfully completed 3 days of sea trials. Minor things to finish up on the boat, but nothing now that will keep it from operating. After working on the boat since September, it is a little melancholy that there was nothing major to deal with.