Seeking advice as we plan our first trip into Canadian water

If the V1 is the same as the 700, it does. There's one hole that has to be drilled for a mounting screw but overall the big hole is the same. I put a 700 in a 600 hole in about an hour, used the same wiring, etc. No other changes, works fine.

Charlie
 
Pat, FYI, I spoke with the V1 seller and their web ad is in error and as was posted here, the V1 can be purchased for 1/4" chain and 1/2" line.
They are sold out of stock but have ordered 20 more of each size. I placed an order after talking with Kathleen and agreeing that this would make the first moments of arrival in a quiet cove much more enjoyable.
 
Capital Sea-

Great advice, so far!

Does your anchor locker already have a factory installed drain, and, if it does, have you tested it to see if it drains properly and doesn't drain down between the locker wall and the outer hull and into the area under the v-berth? (This was a problem on some boats.)

If you opt for the longer rode of 300 feet with the required chain, you may want to add a little height to the rear wall of the anchor locker. Some folks with longer rodes have done this. I'd wait and see how it fits, first, though. If I added a section, I'd add it so that it would fold down backwards for access to the windlass and rode to untangle any snarls. Be sure there's airspace for the rode to breathe and dry at the top, or even make it out of netting.

The older Lewmar vertical windlasses, including the Sprint 600 and the V-700, had the electric motor mounted vertically and directly below the above deck chain-rope drive unit, and drove the unit above through spur gears.

The new V1, has the motor mounted horizontally at the bottom of a drive shaft coming down from the above deck unit, and drives that shaft with a worm gear, like most other brands of vertical windlasses.

The impact of the above change is that the motor sets lower in the anchor locker and may impact the space available for the rode, which may determine how much rode you can carry. It probably depends on how low the drive shaft unit places the motor.

I do remember TyBoo Mike saying there was room for 300 ft of 1/2" rope and some chain in his former CD-22, but he had a Horizon 600 windlass, which was entirely above deck. (See below)

I wonder if anyone here has tried the V1 with 300 feet on a 22 already?

Here's the difference in motor mounting types, but not necessarily in photos of the V 700 and the V1 (which I couldn't find a below deck photo of).

650_Dims.jpg


south-pacific-vn600.jpg


VA600_600C.jpg


vertical_wind.gif


Lofrans-PROJECT-1000-Vertical--Windlass-medium.jpg


masterwinch-clipper-windlass-dimensions-large.jpg


IM000342.jpg
Quick Aires 500 vertical windlass installation in my CD-22, Sea Wolf, with 200 ft of 1/2" rope (no space problem here).

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horizontal_wind.gif

(Shows how horizontal windlass saves rode space in locker.)

rode.jpg
300 feet of 1/2" rope in Tyboo's CD-22 locker: Ouote: "This is the rode locker in my 1987 C-Dory 22\' Cruiser, with 300\' of 1/2\' rope and 15\' of 1/4\" chain as placed by the windlass. It fills the existing locker up, but there has never been a problem with tangling or spilling into the v-berth." LINK

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From all of the above, I'm pretty sure the V1 motor placement won't interfere with the use of 300 feet of rode on your CD-22, but thought I'd do some looking into the question for you, since this can be a problem in some installations.

Hope all the photos and drawings help you understand the issues!

Good Luck!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Joe, thank you. That was helpfull. So it looks as though I have purchased the correct unit for my 22.
So to test that drain, I am thinking a one quart flow in should with a little duct tape below the drail (to funnel the water away from the hull) should produce one quart of outflow. Am I on track.
Also, I do not think I will go for the 300 feet. 230 feet of line and chain is all I will ever need and the 5 plait line is said to lay down well.
 
I would take extra line and chain, and at least two anchors. You will sleep much better at night knowing you have a back up. :wink:

It sounds like you have an extra rode, if you need an extra anchor to take, I have claw type that is my storm anchor which I don't normally carry. If you want to take it with you as a back up, you are welcome to take it. Let me know.

Robbi
 
There is a short video clip on installation and use of manual recovery using the V1 at: http://en.lewmar.com/products/index.asp ... age_id=446

Sea Wolf is correct that with this motor configuration you should have enough room.

Glad to know that the Windlass on special can be in the 1/4" chain and 1/2" line. What I saw in the catalogue infered that it was in the 5/16.

We put a tight eye splice or back splice in the end of our anchor rode. This way, we can have a 4 to 5 foot piece of light line which is secured to an eye bolt in the anchor locker and to the bitter end of the anchor rode. This prevents the very end of the anchor line from running out of the windlass and disappearing into the depths--and allowing you to attach a second anchor rode to the bow rode when necessary. We always carry an extra two hundred feet of line with us. I can be used as an extension of the stern or the bow anchor rode. We happen to have kept the extra anchors and rodes under the platform under the dinette table. If you carry a Fortress or Guardian you can break down the anchor and it will fit in may places in the boat.

You made a good choice at a good price in your purchase of this windlass!
 
On my lunch hour, I spoke at length with a customer service representative at Lewmar, who was very accommodating and helpful. Athough the V700 will simply drop in the hole for a Sprint 600, the V1 will not. The problem is that the V1 is much smaller, and the existing Sprint 600 hole is where the mounting holes for the V1 would need to be drilled - nothing there to support it. So to use a V1 to replace a Sprint 600 on a boat that has the hole drilled for the Sprint 600, you would need to use the starboard piece or something like that. So, where is the best buy on the V700?
 
Regarding a possible leak in the anchor locker, here's a few words of caution.

First, Journey On has such a leak, and it took us several months of cruising to find out that we had such a leak. (Please re-parse that sentence if it offends you.)

Next, pouring a quart of water into the locker and expecting a quart out is problematical, having to do with the difference of small numbers. Note that wetting the locker surface and the rode will take a few drams that will not reach the drain, but will evaporate. Conversely, a quart may not fill the locker to the level of the leak.

I think the best test is a visual inspection of the bottom of the locker, looking for a smooth complete bead. When Judy finally figured out from where the water was coming I did such an inspection and found several gaps in the sealant. Plugged them all, and no more leak.

Boris

PS; You may want to rethink the order of Capn Steve & 1st Mate Kath. Admiral Judy and Capn Boris provides a smooth relationship on our vessel, and there is no discussion as whose commands are executed first.
 
Boris of Journey On makes some very valid points.

It is a very good idea to inspect the bedding compound bead around the tube that leads from the locker to the outside of the hull.

I wonder if it would be possible to test the tube with air pressure for leakage into the v-berth cavity?

If both ends of the tube were exposed, one could simply place air pressure over the tube and the surrounding bead, then plug the outside end, and see if the pressure leaked somewhere, obviously into the hull space. (One would want to make sure water couldn't enter from the outside bead into the between hull space as well.)


Unfortunately the procedure would be made more difficult by the poor access near the bottom of the locker of the tube's entrance, and by the other end of the tube being under the clamshell on the outside, although I'm not sure how hard it would be to get inside there to block the exit (I have a different set up on my locker.)

With the older boats, there was a threaded drain plug inserted into a fitting at the rear of the floor under the v-berth where the Porta-Potti sets. Removing this plug would easily allow one to check for leakage. To my knowledge, the more recent boats came from the factory without this feature.

Quite a few owners of these boats have added a 5-6" inspection port on the wall directly behind the Porta-Potti. There are some storage space possibilities in there, if one's interested. An extra water tank, or a dry storage area is possible, or a complete remodeling of the v-berth area can include adding large removable door panels to the top of the v-berth, though this compromises the buoyancy tank function of the compartment.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Have to agree with Boris--in our house, it is Admiral Marie and boat driver Bob.
All final decisions are made by the highest in the chain of command, and we have found this to be one of the secrets to a long and fun boating relationship in our marriage.
 
Athough the V700 will simply drop in the hole for a Sprint 600, the V1 will not.

Pat, it won't quite "drop in the hole". You need to redrill one of the holes for the mounting to the deck. There are 3 and one of them, for the 700 is about 1/2" off. It was easy to fix though, just remove the 600, use the new 700 mounting plate (1/4" thick aluminum, I think) and mark the new hole. I left the old 600 mounting plate there (because it was stuck to the deck with some 3M stuff (may have been 5200, not sure) and drilled the new hole in the old plate. Gives you an extra hole but it's covered up by the base. Then just hook stuff back up and go. I didn't replace the switch or the breaker, just the windlass/motor assembly.

Not sure where the best deal is right now, maybe at the Boat Show?

Charlie
 
Oh, I have no elusions about who is in charge. The title Capn, in our life is more like that of driver, as in "Driver take me to a marina".
I look at the V1 as a risk management tool, aimed at avoiding the risk for conflict in what can be a stressful moment. We have a great deal of fun together (for 24 years now) and a windless on a small boat 1/2 way through a 16 day trip will avoid the gruff driver from getting out of line. :smiled
 
Regarding the locker and drain inspection: I will do the visual and seal as needed. I may also instal the inspection/ access hatch behind where the toilet sits. I saw some photos showing how a good bit of storage can be had under the V birth but am not sure about tampering with floatation cells and I am not sure that the inner shell does not provide any hull stability or strength from flexing.
 
hardee":2eb69ul6 said:
If you are interested in Princes Louisa Inlet, I would recommend trailering up to W. Vancouver and launch there or out to Sechelt.
Click to expand...

Harvey, can you provide more info on the truck/trailer parking and launch ramp in Sechelt?

Thanks,
Warren
 
Blaine is the perfect jumping off place for Princess Louisa IMHO...at the launch, you are looking right across at the customs check in at White Rock, it takes no more than 10 minutes to get there from Blaine. You check in by phone in White Rock - no waiting or hassle with the I-5 border crossing,no heavy traffic to/through Vancouver. It is an easy if boring run up the mainland side of the Strait. It is easy to make Smuggler's Cove from Blaine in time for sundowners in the cockpit and supper. Warren, in your Tomcat, you'd make Smuggler's Cove by lunch time! The next day it is an easy run to Princess Louisa from Smuggler's Cove.
 
Re
:"Harvey, can you provide more info on the truck/trailer parking and launch ramp in Sechelt?"
Click to expand...

There is a ferry ride to the "Sunshine Coast"BC, and that includes the peninsula to get up to Sechelt. If the Georgia Strait is quiet, that would avoid that ferry run. In our case, we got into a port quartering following sea, with waves running 4-6 ft average and some considerably taller (my best guess is 8-10ft, although when I was looking at them they looked MUCH bigger at times.) :mrgreen: :sad :mrgreen:

I have not launched from Sechelt, but the prospect is appealing. I have talked to a marina there, and to the Chamber of Commerce clerk. From what was reported, there is at least one good ramp, I believe it was Porpoise Bay Marina, and there is reasonably secure parking, (from the Chamber Clerk), a government dock, and a county or community park. There is launching on the Sechelt Arm side that would avoid the run up through Georgia Strait. Be well advised though, to get from the Sechelt Arm on up to Egmont and eventually to Princes Louisa, one would have to navigate Skookumchuck Rapids, which is an area that is famous with kayakers for whitewater surfing. That said, the tide turns twice a day (usually) and there are boats through there frequently, (best on a flood slack).

When we went up to PLI last Labor Day weekend, we launched from Sunset Marina, north of Vancouver and just east of the ferry landing. It is a rather steep drive from the hiway down to the marina. Has very good, secure parking, about $10 day, but got a refund when we came back a day early. :thup One caution. It is an angled launch ramp, tight to get into, and best used somewhere above a low tide, :disgust (however that makes the ramp a bit shorter.) Ron (Meander) turned us on to this marina and it was great for the 22, and you could do it with a 25 or TC but it will take some backing skill. They do have a gal there who is an excellent backing assistant, :thup and I'm convinced she could direct to back a full set of triples through the hairpins in the Black Hills. :wink I would not hesitate to go back there again. I would call and get very explicit directions for where to turn down to the marina. When we were there, the hiway was under construction (route to Whistler and the 2010 Winter Olympics) :star and there were no signs up at the hiway, and construction barriers all over.

Enjoy and travel safe,

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Forgot, we did our boarder crossing through Sumas, not Blaine (I-5), since we were headed off that direction anyway. I did learn since then, that if/when taking a boat across on a trailer, if Canadian Customs does not offer an Border Crossing Incounter number, ask for it or call the 800 number and get one, on the outside chance you were to be approached by Canadian Coast Guard or Parks and Wildlife authorities.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
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