Securing the anchor

[tparrent]

I know that basic seamanship generally calls for securing the anchor and not relying on the windlass to hold it. So I set about trying to secure the anchor on my TomCat by taking a line from either the chain or the anchor itself to one of the cleats sitting either side of the windlass. Unfortunately, the angles prevent that from working. No matter how tight I pull the line, if I let even a link out of the windlass to relieve pressure, the roller tilts up in its deploying position.

Looking at it again, I figure I MIGHT be able to run a line from cleat to cleat, through the chain and pull it tight. I'll try that next trip.

However, as I was sitting on the bow looking at it, I began to wonder if I really wanted to secure it. More than once, I have had to deploy an anchor in an emergency. Each time, I was on a sailboat without a windlass so I ran to the bow, pulled the pin out of the roller and let the rode run free. Any delay could have cost me the boat.

To be fair, I was also on a big sailboat heading out the St Lucie inlet once in wicked conditions and the anchor was NOT secured (not my boat) and it went overboard at the worst possible time. Almost pitchpoled us backwards before the rode snapped.

Here's the issue as I see it. On the TomCat, if I had the anchor tied down and needed to deploy it in an emergency, I would have to exit the cabin, slide along the gunwale in conditions that almost by definition wouldn't be good, untie the line, go back along the side of the cabin, reenter and finally release the windlass.

That's a lot of time and movement when things are getting sporty.

I could not figure out how to release the windlass while AT the windlass. May need to investigate that but I see lots of broken finger possibilities (on the other hand, if I lose power at the wrong time, I wouldn't have a way to release the anchor without some sort of override).

Balancing risks, it seems to me that it might be safer to simply leave the anchor unsecured and rely on that beefy windlass to hold it - but I am open to being corrected on that.

Of course, another obvious backup plan would involve having a second anchor ready to deploy from the cockpit in an emergency. I've almost always had a spare anchor on board my boats. If I can figure out how to stow a second one in a ready to go condition, then I would secure the bow anchor.

How do you all handle this?

Is there a way to manually release the windlass?

Thanks

 

[tparrent]

Apparently, I can release the windlass

https://www.lewmar.com/node/1182

I'll keep a proper sized wrench handy

 

[thataway]

Your windlass should have come with an "installation tool", this includes the1/2" square socket handle which fits the windlass gypsy to release the chain by decreasing the friction of the clutches.

There are several ways to secure the anchor /chain. One is a a Lemar chain tensioner:

The other is a chain stopper:

or a anchor lock:



As far as getting to the anchor--go the shortest distance....thru the forward hatch! You can often release the chain stopper or windlass without even getting out of the hatch...Yes, you might mess up the bunk, or even get water on it--better than some other options.

On our larger sailboats we carried a piece of heavy water proof canvas or vinyl in case we had to untangle a chain snarl in the anchor locker on the V berth...Chain gets tossed when sailing in heavy weather--and occasionally it has to be sorted out by hand.

If you think you are going to be in a dangerous situation, then consider taking the preventer off the anchor. On our Tom Cat we had the cleat aft of the windlass, and took a small braided line to the cleat--same as we do on the 25.

 

[tparrent]

Through the hatch - hadn't thought of that! I'll poke my head through and see if I can reach the cleat. That would solve the problem.

The other solutions require more holes in the boat. I'm saving all of my holes (and reinforcing existing hardware) until I find someone reliable to do the work. No one has ever called me reliable when it comes to DIY so I'm leaving that to a pro.

 

[thataway]

There are ways of tensioning rope. The easiest for the triangle would be to make the pass thru the shackle and each base of the cleat. Then tie the two ends of the line together, with a long "tail. You can use two bowlines, or a bowline and a sheet bend, so that the joining of the ropes are fairly tight. Then take that tail, and pass thru a mid link of the chain, near where you put the sheet bend. Take it around the other leg of the triangle, and then pull her tight-take a couple of turns, and finish off with a couple of half hitches...

 

[hardee]

I realize I am way over on the other end of the spectrum here, so I will say my peace, then ducjk and take the flack.

When I am towing, (and not I know it is not a TomCat, but is in respect to the anchor/windless issue,) the anchor is tied so it cannot possibly deploy onto the pavement at 60 MPH. When I launch, I untie the anchor and snug it up with the windlass. Since I singlehand nearly exclusively, I make it a point to NOT have to go up onto the foredeck. If I need to deploy the anchor I have 2 switches to flip. "Windlass Power ON", and then "Down". Takes 2 seconds from the helm.

I have tried going through the hatch, but the windlass controls are at the helm, so it would require opening the hatch (which is always latched), then to release the anchor, then go to the helm and drop the anchor. Over 1500 hours and it still works like it should.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

 

[PNW_Wesley]

My windlass is a Maxwell HRC-FF6. I also bought a rope/chain rode from Maxwell, and it plays beautifully through the gypsy.

I use a wired remote which allows me to stand on the berth and have good visibility to what the rode is doing, especially when lowering it. The windlass puts it out at 100 feet per minute, and one needs to ensure the slack rode has not drifted under the boat. I press the remote for about 10 seconds at a time, and then wait for the current to take up the slack.

The remote also lets me be close to the bow roller as the anchor is coming out of the water and coming through the roller. It gives me better control of the mating process.

While towing, the anchor is held securely by a strap from Lewmar.

Prior to putting the boat in the water, I undo the safety strap, and connect the loose end to the deck eye bolt. The strap gets reconnected when I'm back on land.

I do not have to get onto the deck while anchoring.

 

[colbysmith]

I do as Harvey does. My anchor is secured when the boat is on the trailer. But on the water, unless I'm on a local small lake, I take the elastic cord off the anchor so that it's always ready to deploy. Once it's deployed for an overnight anchorage, I will tie the rode off on a cleat right behind the windlass. (For short lunch stops, I just trust the windlass to hold tight.) Regarding the small 1/2" drive wrench Lewmar provides with their windlasses, it may not be enough. The way the newer fishpro windlasses work, the gypsy clutch seems to tighten up each time the windlass is used. I bent my small Lewmar provided wrench trying to loosen that clutch. I'll be adding a larger breaker bar to my tool kit! BTW, I stopped using the windlass in it's freefall mode and went back to powering down and up. (The free fall mode used a button release to loosen the clutch when you pressed the down switch. Then when you hit up, that same button caused the clutch to lock down tighter. Because of the windlass's features, even when not placed in it's free fall availability mode, the clutch continually has pressure on it to tighten up when pulling the anchor up...) Colby

 

[Peter & Judy]

There are some good tips here. On my 22 I have made a couple of modifications to secure the anchor rode better. Normally the rode would be tied off to the cleat behind the windlass. But there is a problem here in that as the rode goes through the bow roller and as the boat swings on anchor, there is chaffing that occurs on the rode from the front of the bow roller. I solved this problem by installing two additional cleats one each side of the bow about 2 feet back. Now when I drop the anchor, I tie off first to the main cleat. Then I attach a line to the rode a couple of feet out from the bow with a prussic knot which allows me to slide the line down the rode and take the tension off the bow roller and avoid chaffing the rode. There now is no tension on the bow roller, windlass or on the main cleat.

 

[hardee]

I forgot to mention that I do not use free fall. I think for the same reason. AND, not that much difference in time to "hook up" when you only have 10 feet to the bottom.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[thataway]

Folks have to remember that the windlass, anchor roller, cleats and space is considerably different on the Tom Cat 255.

Not only is there the "wired" remote for the windlass, which is very easy to make if you don't want to pay the $100 for the "factory" one. There is a wireless remote ($270). and the option to put up down switch on the foredeck--as is common in most larger vessels. All you are doing is triggering relays (a few windlasses are direct wired thru the switch, and if that is the case, then the only option is deck mounted switches.

 

[gulfcoast john]

We’ve used the Lemar wireless remote fob for years. Bob's $270 quote beats this.

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/lewmar-- ... ecordNum=4

The review critical of the transceiver board water resistance is not valid; mine is installed under the helm with other wiring hubs. Power to the remote system is cut with the windlass thermal breaker. I keep that breaker ‘Off’ at all times including trailering except when anchoring. In our case (which may be unique), the windlass clutch grips the chain so tightly that I can’t pull the anchor out of position even with power off, so I no longer secure it otherwise except for long trailering trips. I don’t pamper the windlass by taking the pressure off. The encryption system takes about 5-7 seconds for the wireless remote fob to handshake with the transceiver when first turned on and shuts down on timeout. Oddly, the windlass motor runs faster when using the remote system. “Down” is powered down, but still plenty fast and does not require touching the windlass. My 2010 vintage solenoid had to be replaced with the newer model. Total ran almost a Boat Unit with pro install, but well worth it for us.

If I were singlehanding, it would be the 3rd most important item after the kill switch lanyard and a ladder that allows self rescue from the water if I went overboard.

When anchoring, we let out some extra chain and attach a G4 US made HD chain hook BEYOND the end of the roller bail to a 12 foot nylon line. Although the line can chafe a bit going up over the rub rail, I just inspect it and replace this line every 2 years or so.

A wireless remote windlass fob would be a great gift this season!

Happy shopping!
John

 

[thataway]

We’ve used the Lemar wireless remote fob for years. Bob's $270 quote beats this

Defender first has the unit for $264.65

The Defender price on the "new" sealed solenoid is $114.89. There may be some even lower prices. The marine "accessory markup" is in the 60% range. Electronics are only about 10% markup, unless manufacturer sale. For many items such as bolts and screws, a good industrial hardware will have items of high quality at far less prices.

I consider West Marine as a "last resort, if you need something right away." Occasionally you can get some bargains.

 

[cmetzenberg]

So i've never had my wildcats slip, i've never had the chain skip. This is in all kind so rough conditions. I'm all about redundancy but has anyone ever had their gear pay out accidentally?

 

[colbysmith]

I consider West Marine as a "last resort, if you need something right away." Occasionally you can get some bargains.

I know WM can be kind of slow at times, however they will price match. And if you have one local, you can always ship free right to them. And returning merchandise back to the store is a lot easier as well. At least for our closest WM in Madison. Colby

 

[garyf]

A wireless remote windlass fob would be a great gift this season!

Is there a situation you can imagine the wireless FOB would work and a hard wired switch mounted just inside the forward hatch wouldn't? Because that's my current plan. Just curious. I'm thinking I'd rather divert the wireless FOB money to a MOB+.

I actually had the FOB in my cart when I bought the windlass but got talked out of it because it seem easy enough to wire an accessible switch.

 

[NORO LIM]

Here's what I did so I could operate the windlass through the hatch from the V-berth or out on the deck.








Having watched a cellphone slip out of my pocket and make a slow walk across the deck and into the drink, I decided against a wireless switch. :roll: I also liked not having to worry about misplacing it, or recharging its batteries.

 

[PNW_Wesley]

Here's what I did so I could operate the windlass through the hatch from the V-berth or out on the deck.

Having watched a cellphone slip out of my pocket and make a slow walk across the deck and into the drink, I decided against a wireless switch. :roll: I also liked not having to worry about misplacing it, or recharging its batteries.

I chose the same remote, for the same reasons.

My remote plugs into the helm instrument panel, below and to the left of the wheel. This allows me to use the remote in the berth or from the helm seat. I chose not to install the standard up/down switch panel, and only use the remote.

 

[hardee]

IN 1500 hours and well over a hundred nights anchoring, plus some days of anchoring several times a day, I have only once, had to be on the foredeck dealing with an anchoring issue. Over the night, I managed to wrap a metal structure like a shark cage up in my chain, and when I was retrieving, (weighing) anchor, I noticed the change in the windlass sound (grunting?) and then in a few seconds saw this piece of metal sticking up in front of the boat. I was in a tiny bay and pretty sure my anchor was still on the bottom. I had to go out on the deck with some extra line, tie off the metal sculpture, go back to the helm and let out some chain, then back out onto the fore deck and unwrap the chain. Then hand retrieve the chain and anchor onto the foredeck, then drop the sculpture (some sort of frame like a tuna tower), and back out of the bay.

It was several trips Foredeck to helm and back. Fortunately it was a quiet morning, no wind, low slack tide and nobody looking so I could take my time. Had it been otherwise, I could have just put it all back onto the bottom and waited. AS it was, it was uneventful, other than the hour it took me to get bottom free.

That is the only time I have wished for windlass control from the foredeck.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

 

[journey on]

Gary, to answer your question: I have a C-D 25 with a Lewmar windlass. The Up-Down switch is below the wheel so I can use it at the same time I'm controlling the boat. The anchor always launches by it self. Sometimes it's windy, or current or etc. and I have to put it in gear and give it a boost. On retrieve, the same applies only more so. Actually Judy's usually on the bow, washing down the rode and anchor or getting rid of the seaweed.

That said, I need a switch by the wheel. It's a simple matter to wire another switch in parallel by the hatch to control the windless when you're working through the hatch. So, I feel you would need 2 switches. They can be light duty since they control a relay.

I've never been able to climb out of the hatch on the 25. Of course that may be because I'm getting old (think thataway, Dr. Bob.) Just try reaching out and controlling your anchor before you anchor, to see if you can do it. Practice, it's a bear to learn in real time.

Boris