Schematics - and other questions

T

tparrent

New member
I made my third attempt to winterize my TomCat. I must admit I'm still more in the learning rather than doing phase.

First, the good news. I finally took the boat out for a short run up the river. Wow! Whisper quiet, smooth as silk and fast as lightning. Very, very cool.

I then tried to install the hot water heater bypass kit. No luck at all. I could not even get the hose disconnected from the existing fitting. I unscrewed the plastic fitting but the hose was still solidly connected to the elbow fitting coming out of the tank. No idea what was going on there so I screwed it back together and went off in search of a barrel of antifreeze because temps are supposed to drop into the low 20s in the next couple of days.

West Marine had no antifreeze in stock. AutoZone had a ton of bad attitude but apparently no antifreeze. Walmart had 486,387 customers which I think exceeded our state's COVID limit of 30% occupancy so I didn't even bother going in.

Three gallons was going to have to do it. I emptied the tank as best I could, including draining the hot water tank. Poured in most of the three gallons and ran the sink faucet until it appeared to be not water - but not really pink either. Pured some in the head (pumped the holding tank dry last week - but see below), put some down the shower drain and splashed a bit in the fishboxes.

Then I went searching for the bilges. Shouldn't be hard to find but with me you just never know. I found a cavernous space reachable through and hatch in the space under the table. As I am not an octopus, I was unable to squirm around enough to see what was in that space but it appeared to be bone dry so I left it alone.

I then looked across the companionway, under the sink in search of the same type space. If it's there, it's well hidden under a screwed down panel. I did, however, see a switch for Pumpout and Macerator. How that switch works, I have no idea. It certainly didn't just turn. I have a picture but the C Brats help says there should be an "Add an attachment form" at the bottom of this page - and I can't find that either. (I did figure out how to add the pic to my album)

All of this got me thinking - are there schematics available for the TomCat? The previous owner left a very nice notebook containing manuals for all the various bits of equipment but I did not see an owners manual or anything directly from C Dory. I recall this being an issue on my previous C Dorys as well - evne the 16 that I bought new.

I now have a very general idea of where most stuff is in the boat but a schematic would be very useful. For instance, I really don't know where the bilge pumps are - assuming there are bilge pumps. Bunch of other stuff I would like to know as well. For instance, do the fish boxes simply drain overboard? (And if they do, why oh why didn't they make the drains flush instead of raised?)

Lots to learn. Hope nothing freezes before I learn what I need to know.
 
pumpout.jpg

Here is your image of "Y" valve.

It appears to be aligned for the macerator pump overboard. If you look there is a hole in the red part in the bottom, and an aligning hole in the top output, which is overboard pump out. When you put the valve in the up position you can 'lock" it in place, so no one can accidentally pump out the tank.

The bilge pumps are all of the way aft in the bottom of the hulls. Probably accessed thru the lazaretts on each side aft in the cockpit

On the Starboard side the water tank is probably in the bilge below the galley locker. (that was where it was in my boat. I never had any water under the bunk or forward of the fuel tanks. (which are in the hulls aft).

I doubt that there is a schematic for your specific boat. There were many changes thru the years. Even one boat to the next in the 2006-07 era were different--some even had two water tanks.

The macerators for the fish box should pump overboard with their thru hulls. That will be aft. on each side of the hull. Also there will be a thru hull higher up on the aft gunnel for the bilge pump on each side.

It would be a good idea to start tracing and labeling the wiring--both by the console and where it terminates. A project for a Winter's. Eve...wait a minute--it is already winter!
 
Thanks for those details.

Question about the pumpout. So if it is Pumpout position and I run the macerator, nothing goes aboard, right? But regardless of the position, I can still pumpout through the deck pipe. Do I have that right? I recall the surveyor saying the valve should be wired shut to prevent accidental pumpout where prohibited. I think he just meant putting a cable tie on the valve in the right position.

How did you perform that magic of getting a picture in the post? I can't find the Add Attachment button referenced in C Brats help
 
The only time I was dinged on an inspection was a CG boarding where they made note of my overboard valve not having a padlock and a means to put one on. I was told it had to have a keyed lock anytime I was less than three miles off shore. I added a bracket and lock and passed just fine the next time.

Pictures in a post? It is easier than it seems. Find the pic you want in your album, click it up to full size, right click on the image and choose to copy the image address (the wording of the command varies with browsers), then paste it into your message between the Img tags. I always just paste it, highlight it, then click Img and the tags get put in both ends as they should be.

Here is the what Bob put it his message to get the pic to appear.

Code: 
[ATTACH=full]123640[/ATTACH]
 
So if it is Pumpout position and I run the macerator, nothing goes aboard, right? But regardless of the position, I can still pumpout through the deck pipe. Do I have that right? I recall the surveyor saying the valve should be wired shut to prevent accidental pumpout where prohibited.
Click to expand...

Do not run the macerator when it the valve is in the "pump out" position. It will burn up the impeller on the macerator pump. There is a SS plate with spurs, and then a vane pump, The rubber vane pump must have water to lubricate it.

You cannot pump out thru the deck pipe (or should not be able to) if the valve is on macerator. So cable tie or padlock (best) the valve to "pump out". (Don't loose the padlock key). There are some places like Lake Champlain where you have to remove the house from the thru hull or otherwise disconnect the overboard discharge.
 
I winterized or 2020 Tom Cat by 1st having the boat on the trailer lowered bow down as far as I could get it. This enabled me to siphon the water out of the tanks by attaching a hose to the sink faucet using a RV water thief then running it out the window and down the driveway as far as I could to improve flow. This did take most of a day to get the water out of both tanks. After that I pored 3 gallons of antifreeze in each tank and then pumped some overboard through the black tank discharge. Then the shower head and drain. Under the sink area you will find a removeable cover on the floor that gives you access to the shower sump pump. Your two bilge pumps are reached through the rear hatches on port and starboard the battery box. You should have the boat tilted back up bow high and the drain plugs removed on each hull so you wont have to worry about water building up in the hulls.
Hope this helps
 
Tom,

The only time you should turn on the blackwater macerator is when you are using that option to empty the holding tank overboard. That is legal only if you are over 3 miles out in the ocean or Gulf and not in a No Discharge Zone (NDZ), such as anywhere around the Keys etc. NDZ will have a red outline on your charts. However, it’s hard for me to justify fouling whatever waters we’re in, so just lower that red handle to the ‘pumpout’ position, padlock it and attach the key to your ignition keys (with a float, too). Many standard keyed padlocks won’t fit, but the small ones made for luggage will. Remove the fuse for that macerator pump and it won’t ever get turned on accidentally. Marina pump out systems are easy and relatively cheap.

When using the catwalk deck plate pump-out option at a Marina, their system will provide the vacuum necessary to empty the holding tank. You need a box of nitrile gloves and to measure and buy the adapter

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=1987783

I only used this Defender site for the pics, not best price. The marina may or may not have the correct adapter, or have an old banged up steel one that messes up the threads in your boat’s deck plate.

The actual pump out procedure will vary with the marina’s equipment, but will be vacuum based with multiple valves. The holding tank vent line (likely the smaller white hose in your picture) is critical. Make sure it doesn't get kinked or the screen blocked by mud daubers etc. (PS your gas tank vent line through hulls will be a few inches below your gas deck plate fills...avoid blasting these two with your washdown hose, but none of the other 11 through hulls would matter...yes, there will be a test). For your first pumpout, offer the dock kid a $10 tip to show you the steps and share his worst pumpout horror stories.

My 30g plastic water tank is in the port sponson forward of the fridge cabinet. Bits of plastic from drilling may end up in the freshwater pressure pump filter. That’s plumbed to the water heater, galley sink, shower and gravity toilet (lift pedal upwards to fill bowl). My water heater pressure relief valve and shower drain also flowed into the shower sump box, which pumps overboard when activated by a float switch in the box. My kitchen sink gravity drains directly overboard. This ‘gray’ water and suds is legal but aesthetically unpleasing in marinas or Lake Champlain.

If you have a raw water washdown pump, keep the bronze through hull sea water valve closed when not in use.

Agree on removing drain plugs when stored on the trailer. Just don’t forget to replace them prior to launching. I like Rule Gold 2700gph bilge pumps. Because of the ‘V’ geometry at the aft end of each sponson, the drain hole fixture allows ¾” of water to accumulate that can’t drain... and it can amount to a surprising amount of water remaining in the bilge even with the plugs removed. Once after loading on the trailer we started up a small hill on a two lane road. An uber expensive BMW convertible with the top down was descending. All that bilge water sloshed back aft and activated the float switches and a torrential geyser shot 4 feet out into the middle of his lane. He panic stopped and I slowed...it finally shut off. Just be aware of this possibility in the 255. I installed a homemade ‘arid bilge’ system but it’s on the ‘needs work’ punch list.

The aft cockpit scupper drains have a rubber flapper valve. Be aware that debris can sometimes get stuck and ‘prop’ the flap open. If multiple or heavy folks stand back there you can get water coming in. A 2” stopper will fit when needed.

Rain water will get in the fish boxes but can’t drain out because the macerators block it (until turned on). If there’s some antifreeze in the pumps I believe you’re good.

The engine bracket has two access plates that are awash when coming off plane and may not be totally waterproof. This is how you access the round bracket anode bolts to replace them. There may be two 1/4 “ iron plugs to drain the bracket. I put Tef Gel on them since they are dissimilar metals immersed in saltwater. No freeze issues there.

https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/product ... BbEALw_wcB

My boat has three Group 31 Northstar AGM deep cycle batteries, one for House, 1 for port and 1 for stbd engine starting. The House battery works really hard, the start batteries are loafers. I rotate and label each season which one becomes the next designated House battery. Before I started doing that, the House battery died at 36 months (and best practice is to replace all three at the same time...expensive).

Hope at least some of these random observations are useful.

Merry Christmas!
John
 
Regarding installing the winterization kit on the hot water heater, or anytime really that you need to pull hoses off. Over time they tend to wear and stick to the fittings. If you have a strong fitting, you can twist and pull with all your might and eventually the hose will come off. Otherwise, hopefully you have enough extra hose to just slice the end over the fitting (being careful not to slice into the fitting itself if it's plastic) and then easily pulling it off the fitting. Then just cut that sliced end off the hose. Colby
 
Heating gently with a hair dryer or heat gun, will soften "stubborn" hoses to come loose. Also twisting with a pair of pliers/channel locks, or chain vise grips will often "break" the hose free.


I have to disagree with John on one comment about grey water: From Lake Champlain handbook:
Dispose of grey water properly. "Greywater" is rinse water from boat sinks and showers. It is illegal in New York and Vermont to discharge greywater into Lake Champlain.
Click to expand...

We have captured Grey water by removing the house from the sink drain, and used another hose to divert the grey water into a 2 to 5 gallon container for proper disposal. (We do this at campgrounds also, when "boater homing".

Unfortunately there are many places in upper BC and Alaska where there is no pump out facility. If you are in this situation, try and get into a strait where there is good tidal flush before dumping any sewage, if you cannot get 3 miles offshore.

It my understanding that by the end of 2020 the City of Victoria, B.C. will finally stop dumping raw sewage into the Straits of Juan de Fuca.
 
Thanks for all the info. It's very helpful.

I've watched more water heater and hose connection videos than I ever thought I would but I think I've got it figured out now - except for the size of the hoses and fittings. That's apparently a state secret. Living two hours from the boat is a real hassle when figuring stuff out.

I have one last question on the waste pumpout. I had the tanks pumped out and then put some water in at the deck opening then pumped that out. If all of that happened then that Y valve must be in the pumpout position, right? I've watched videos on THAT too but can't figure out which way the handle should be point for macerator vs pumpout. I'm thinking since the pumpout worked that I should just lock it in the current position. I'm never going to use the macerator anyway. After sailing 20 years in the Great Lakes, I can't imagine pumping raw waste overboard even if I was three miles out in the ocean.
 
After pumping out, we made it a point to put fresh water down the toilet, not in the deck opening. Run a hose through the window in the head and put a bunch of fresh water in, then pump that out. Assuming you have the Sealand RV type toilet. We used RV black tank treatment (Thetford, formaldehyde-free) to control odor and break down the solids. You can buy RV toilet paper (rapidly disintegrating), but we found Angel Soft to be a good option.

The macerator will last longer with some regular use. Even if you aren't using it to pump the poop tank, put plenty of fresh water in the holding tank and run the macerator to pump that out. A little exercise is good for it. If you get into the boonies enough, there will be times when you are away from civilization and have to use the macerator. Dilution is the solution. It will be important that you know which way is which with that handle.

Most pump out stations we've come across are self-serve. Most of those have a tapered rubber tip on the end that you hold in place in your deck fitting; be sure you keep pressure on it to keep a good seal. Some will require that you have an adapter that screws into your deck fitting and their hose clamps on that adapter

Everybody poops and pees. Like most things on the boat, you need to learn the proper way of dealing with it. That enclosed head (with toilet and shower) will allow you to live "home-like" while onboard.

Great boat name! Merry Christmas, Tom!

Jim & Joan
 
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