Rust on truck

G

Gene&Mary

New member
I just got my 2015 Ford F150 back from the shop, 25k service. They said the lug nuts on the rear tires were rusted so that it was difficult to get them off. It would have been a real bummer if I had a flat tire. They asked if I had a boat..........

They also said there was rust on the brake drums and the brake innards.

I always try to rinse the wheels and wheel wells but usually fresh water is not available where I launch at so its a while before I get to a place where it is available. I guess I'll buy one of those garden sprayers so I can rinse right away.

Any other thoughts or ideas?

Thanks
 
I use an F-250 to haul Journey On. When I launch, I'm careful not to let the rear wheels touch the water; close but no dip. I've not noticed any rust of the rear axle, drums included. The trailer is a roller trailer, if that makes any difference. I do bury the side guides, though.

So, why do you let the truck's rear wheels hit the water?

Boris
 
You might add "Salt Away" to the water in your garden sprayer. Be sure it is a large sprayer and you have enough flow thru the nozzle to wash off all of the salt water. Hopefully you have disc brakes on the rear--they are much easier to wash clean of the salt water. You can modify drum brakes to allow washing the inside of the drum and pads.
 
I bought a pump garden sprayer and filled it with Salt-A-Way. I keep it in the bed and spray off the trailer brakes & rear truck brakes/wheels after I dunk. I also use a small amount of anti-seize on the lug nuts.
 
I am really picky about the launch ramps I use and if they don't have a wash deck I don't go there. Yup, it does limit some places, but It makes a difference in how long my trailer will live. I also wash the trailer down after the launch as well as the haulout.

Another thing I did, (and I looked at you trailer pictures and you could do the same thing), I lowered my trailer bunks (yes, all 4 of them) 2.5 inches. It is on a Pacific Tandem, galvanized, and it makes a huge difference. I was having to back down to put the tires into the water - not the wheels though. Now, I usually don't have to even get the tires wet. That also makes the boat easier to get into when on the trailer, helps it tow better with a lower CG, and decreases towing windage.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Won't stop the rust, but at least for keeping that and the corrosion from welding things together, I use never seize (Permatex Aluminum Anti-Seize) on both the lug nuts, and slime some on between the wheel and hub. Especially the center axle section that sticks out a bit into the wheel hub. (I had an earlier Ford that was notorious for sticking together there!) And while I rarely launch in salt water, I'm anal about making sure the trailers running gear (brakes & hubs), and rest of the trailer, is washed down with fresh water after it's spent any time in salt, rather it's dunked in the ocean, or towed along our midwest salted roads in the winter! Colby
 
While we are at it...truck (and trailer) lug nuts should be torqued to specs:

qu75604_800.jpg


The GMC 1500 to 120 ft lbs, and 2500 to 140 ft lbs.

I carry a torque wrench, and an impact driver, as well as a breaker bar. Never use the torque wrench as a breaker bar to remove rusted lug nuts. Use an impact driver or breaker bar. I spin the lug nuts on, with the driver, but no tightening. Does the dealer or tire shop use a torque wrench? Some have torque limiting devices on their impact drivers, but I would guess most don't.

Anti-Seize, oil, grease are all applied--and there are many who say you should not use a lubricant when applying--in that it allows more pressure, than an un-lubricated thread, which can stretch the stud, or cause uneven tightening and vibrations....but most of us who get salt water on the wheels, do use small amounts of a Anti-seize.
 
I launched small boats on our beach with my Toyota pickup. Best at high tide, but I still couldn't help but go in axle high. I could hear when I was in deep enough because the exhaust burbled. After about 6 years I had some brake squealing. $1,400 later I had new brakes. I now drive 4 miles to a better launch site.

I use Salt Away on the trailer, especially the disk brakes, but unless you dip the trailer into Salt Away, it's not going get everything. I often stop by a boat ramp on a lake and back the trailer in for a minute on the way home.

Mark
 
Yup weed sprayer for me - I sprayer by trailer tires with fresh water every time.

$10-15 at harbor freight. Add some salt away if you want.
 
Another thing I used to do which apparently helped: as soon as I get back home after a trip, I remove trailer wheels and truck rears, make sure wheels hubs and lugs are cleaned/de-salted, and re-install. With anti-sieze on the lugs every time I pull a wheel.
 
All I can say is I would never ever let any part of my truck touch saltwater. Unlike a saltwater boat trailer brake components vehicles are not meant for such harsh environments. In a few years your rear brakes will be trash. Any electrical components that gets submerged will fail rapidly.

It may be inconvenient but I would try a receiver hitch extension for lunching your boat.

Instead of using anti seize try Perfect Seal, I use it on my lug nuts and all outboard bolt threads, amazing stuff and inexpensive.
 
I agree with Jay/breausaw. I don't let any part of a truck I'm using to launch touch salt water. If the launch ramp is shallow and the truck wheels have to go into the water, I don't launch there. Trucks cost money, repairing them is more money that I'd rather not spend.

So, my suggestion is to find a new launch ramp. The Seattle area must be full of them. If you're on Center Island at least get an extension bar for the trailer.

Boris
 
Just like not worrying about rust from salt water dipping our tow vehicles
(our Great Lakes and tributaries are unsalted), guys 'round these parts also
don't sweat 'lug nut specs'. Instead, we equate 100 ft lbs with '1 grunt',
200 ft lbs with '2 grunts', 300 ft lbs = 3 grunts and so on making adjustments
when required. Easy to remember and don't need special tools.

So, if you need 140 ft lbs to tighten a nut, you'll need a bit more than 1 grunt,
but not 2.

Of course, in winter we get rust from local Road Commission salting our roads.
Then 'breaking loose' a rusted nut may require an unknown number of grunts.
So, before such an undertaking, several push ups or beers just prior usually does
the job.

You boyz 'round that salt water might benefit from knowing this, I'm guessin'.

Aye.
Grandpa used to say, "Don't work harder. Work smarter. Save money"
Grandma used to say, "Not buying special tools let's you keep a few more
beers handy".
 
I have never understood why port of Olympia would never put in a rinse station. Their argument is about invasive species coming in from out of state. But the 99.99 percent of users of that ramp are from waters without those problems.

I currently have a roller trailer and don't even submerge the axle at launch. When I retrieve I do submerge the axle but by then the spindles are cold and don't take in much water. I do restrain the boat when launching with the bow line looped around an appendage on the trailer so it doesn't fall into the water.
 
I am of the opinion that you can’t hide from salt. Living on the coast, it’s everywhere. Even the rain puddles on the way to the ramp are salt water. Probably even worse than dipping trailer or truck tires in the water. Puddles dry up many times over, water evaporates, salt doesn’t so they are far saltier than the ocean. Had some problems with front disc brakes & rust. The shop asked me if I park in the ocean!!! After repairs l spent a few hours under the truck spraying 2 cans of heavy duty corrosion x on everything. I buy salt terminator 5 gallons at a time. Use it on trailer & motor every time.i also use the sprayer to rinse the entire boat before wash down. Works pretty good. You cant hide from salt!!!!
 
Just a note about getting your tow vehicle into the briny drink. The top of your differential has a breather as does your tranny and your front differentials if you are a 4X. If you deep dip the differential, it cools off like the trailer axles and bearings and you get water sucked into the "pumpkin". We should start a link on trailer tongue extensions. Lots of good ideas out there.
Bob Jarrard
 
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