rub rail split

C

C-Slug

New member
Sorry, I'm sure this has been covered before but I'm a new boat owner and specifics really matter to me.
I have a 2004 C-Dory Cruiser. The rub rail has separated from the boat in sections and the rivets in those sections are loose. But more disconcerting (to me) is a gap between the "top" of the boat and the hull along this line. At its worst, there's approx. 1/8 separation it seems between these molds.
Left to my own devices I would:
1. Remove rub rail.
2. Use cabosil or microballoons plus activated resin to fill in the gaps. Cure.
3. Fiberglass over it. Cure.
4. Reapply rub rail.
Does that sound right? Suggestions?
Thank you very much for your consideration.
Sincerely,
Crawford
 
The rivets are aluminum, and do give way. The "Cure" is to remove the vinyl insert, then replace the rivets with SS bolts. There are several threads on this.

In the 2004 era was when the Reynolds owned the company, but most of the original C Dory crew was working on the 22's. The hull to deck joint is not the more common "Shoe Box", where the upper fits over the lower, but is a butt joint. In this case there should be several layers of glass--ideally at least one layer of mat and one layer of 6ox glass tape in the inside--which gives a strong hull to deck joint.

If your boat does not have the inside glass--then this becomes a far more urgent issue. But just the small gap you describe between the deck/cabin and hull mold is normal.

I would not use micro balloons in that filler, but would use Cabosil and medium density filler. Are you wanting to put fiberglass mat and cloth on the outside of the joint?

Generally it is not necessary to put fiberglass mat and tape over the outside. This would mean grinding down the current laminate to a taper, putting very narrow strips of mat and glass, then finishing, fair--which means more filler and then long boards, finally gel coat to match. Huge job.

Not a bad idea to fill, sand smooth, re/drill the holes, put in SS flat head screws, washer, and nylox nut, with 4000 sealant as you put the rail back on. Then re-install the vinyl insert. You can cover the inside with sealant, epoxy/ paint etc.

Here are some other threads. The classic on a C Dory Rebuild by Sunbeam which will give you some ideas on how to handle this issue--but it should not be serious.
 
Interesting topic, as I just completed completely repairing the rubrail on my new to me 26, over the last three days. Unlike the 22 that I drilled out the rivets and installed SS machine screws with fender washers and nylock nuts (except areas that were visible and in those spots I used crown nuts). Of course the tread of that repair has been referenced.
The 26 has machine screws and over the course of the short life of this boat, 80% of the fasteners were rounded out, the wrong size, the wrong type and all sealant was gone... Fortunately the job was not as bad as I expected and did not take as long to complete as the 22 did...
Crawford, if you have questions that are unanswered or you are not not sure where to begin, feel free to call me at 757-477-1453.
 
Back
Top