Removing Water Heater

D

DickAndSharon

New member
We have a 25', and are thinking about removing the water heater. Most of our time is spent at anchor, so the heater is using a lot of storage space for no purpose. We find a 1 gallon garden sprayer to be just as effective as the built-in shower and uses less water.
The heater is a Seaward S700. It has 4 hoses connected to the front of the unit. Only one is identified (Drain). I assume I should be able to connect some combination of these hoses so that we get water from either faucet. But which gets connected to which? Any guidance?
 
Maybe you could just disconnect the water heater feed at the water pump outlet manifold. Before removing the tank, maybe carefully write down how to replace everything for a possible future sale.
 
YACD":3r9wmo7k said:
Maybe you could just disconnect the water heater feed at the water pump outlet manifold. Before removing the tank, maybe carefully write down how to replace everything for a possible future sale.
Click to expand...

Good idea, I also suggest taking close digital pictures that you can use as a resource should you choose to reinstall it.

Good luck.
 
I removed by 25 water heater last year in the quest for an instant water heater--then had to put it back because of the lack of suitability of the small heater I obtained. There is an "In" and and "out" hose on the back. These have to be connected together with a single barbed fitting.
The "drain" and over pressure/tempature lines are just taken off, and then you can plug them with a dowel and hose clamp near the thru hull fittings, under the gunnel. Not a hard job to do. You do gain a lot of storage space.
 
I am really thinking about getting rid of the hot water heater too...some day there will be a functional propane flash heater, right now, this puppy is just taking up valuable space!
 
I used a flash propane heater in the sailboats we built--I don't think it would be that good for the C Dory. One of the problems is the venting and CO. It has to be out in the open, so probably the head would be the best place, but heads are crowded to start with...
 
C'mon folks. It's a water heater, not a HOT water heater. If the water was hot, you wouldn't need it.... Just one of my pet peeves... :crook

On edit, most of you got it right....Only Mr. Anderson ESQ, called it a "Hot water heater"... Wouldn't you know it!! :shock: :lol:

And I'm thinking of removing ours from the CAT too, never used it, don't think it works... Lots of storage under there.

Charlie
 
Mine will be removed, and replaced with a 2.5 gal. unit mounted to the hull up behind the sink. One of a long list of projects on this puppy.
 
I understand the quest for more storage space on the 25. But if you remove the water heater wouldn't you lose 6 gallons of fresh water capacity. I always turn on the water pressure switch to be sure to fill the water heater when I fill the fresh water. On longer trips I think I would rather have the 6 gallons of fresh water more than the storage space even if the water isn't hot. Just a thought.
 
The 6 gallons, or whatever a water heater holds, is "lost" water. You can't get it out of the heater when the jet pump runs out of water from the water holding tank. So taking the heater out of the system will not diminish the amount of water you can use.
 
If you decide to bypass the (cold :) ) water heater by joining the inlet and outlet of the hot water tank it might be wise to subsequently get half your water from each of the hot and cold faucets to avoid a buildup of stale or worse water in the newly joined pipe. In theory, contaminated water in that pipe could infect the rest of the water supply by diffusion through the pump. A low probability event I'm sure but why risk it?
 
YACD, just remove the hot water pipe (or at least disconnect it) and then cap the inlet to the faucet.

As for the extra 6 gallons, you could use the "Drain" from the water heater, but we always carry an extra 5 gallon water can. There are several reasons. 1- if we run out, 5 gallons will do us well for at least a day with all uses--a week for emergency drinking use. 2- the water can be moved to distribute weight 3. if you have to "abandon ship" the 5 gallons of water may save your life. You can live a long time without food, but not without fresh water.
 
I purchased an RV By-Pass kit for the water heater. All the fittings in the
water system have what looks like 5200 on all the threads. My initial effort
found these fittings would not budge; even with the clamps removed.

Has anyone disconnected these fittings? Was a heat gun needed? What is
the best way to go about this? Will they have to be destroyed and
replaced?

Since I don't have any leaks and the heater works fine, I'm being very
conservative in this approach. I have been adding abt 7 gals of antifreeze
each year to winterize the systerm, plus one for the holding tank.

If all goes well here, I plan on adding a water filter for the sink cold water
line without cutting the line.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Art
 
Pat Anderson":gb8dn58e said:
some day there will be a functional propane flash heater
Click to expand...

Some day as in some day I will buy one, or some day as in some day someone will design one? If the former, what would you buy?

Warren
 
As usual, the contrarian here! We love our water heater and the hot showers onboard. Compared to most Marina showers, it's heavenly! Of course, the TC has copious storage in the sponsons so it's not as big a deal.

We run the 2000w. Honda Generator in the AM, heat water, shower, top off batteries, make coffee and use the hair dryer in about an hour. We can anchor out for three days this way until the fresh water runs out.
 
Sea Angel":ku8phpk3 said:
I purchased an RV By-Pass kit for the water heater. All the fittings in the
water system have what looks like 5200 on all the threads. My initial effort
found these fittings would not budge; even with the clamps removed.

Has anyone disconnected these fittings? Was a heat gun needed? What is
the best way to go about this? Will they have to be destroyed and
replaced?

Since I don't have any leaks and the heater works fine, I'm being very
conservative in this approach. I have been adding abt 7 gals of antifreeze
each year to winterize the systerm, plus one for the holding tank.

If all goes well here, I plan on adding a water filter for the sink cold water
line without cutting the line.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Art
Click to expand...

If it's factory it's not 5200. It's some sort of plumbing putty/goop. I does not "glue" like 5200 and remains pliable.

I just added a by-pass kit I bought at a local RV store. My heater had tapered plastic fittings attached to short brass threaded pipes that were threaded into the heater.

I took off the factory plastic fittings [female] and used a small pipe wrench to remove the brass pipes. They came out with a little effort, but the pipe wrench is the only tool to use IMO. I then installed the three-way valves from the kit with Teflon tape and added 90 [male] degree plastic fittings for the vinyl hoses (hot & cold). This was necessary to clear the cabinet door; i couldn't use the original fittings. Pretty straight forward.

Only issue I had was I also had to purchase a longer by-pass hose from the local Ace. I bought a S/S braided line and I routed it up/over the front cover that protects the wiring hook up.
 
Localboy,
Thanks for the encouragement. My heater is the original factory
installaion in my 2005, CD25. I tested the compound & fitting - it seemed
very stiff so I did not try to force it. After I dump the system for
winterization I'll give it some good twists and see what happens again.

I bought the by-pass kit at Boater's World a couple of years ago. I've
been too lazy to install it. I had too many other projects in the works.
Now is the time for plumbing. The ham radio installation stuff will have to
wait.

Art
 
There have been "flash" propane water heaters for boats for a long time. We put them in the 38 foot sailboats we built. However, there were also a number of deaths due to carbon monoxide and oxygen defficiency in boats with these flash heaters, so they have not been many used in the US. They are more common in European boats. Ventiallation of the exhaust gases and the propane are the major issues. I was not tempted to use these type of instantanous heaters in boats since my initial experience--although the copious hot water was really great.

Of course in the TC 255, you can add an second water tank, so you could double the time at anchor before running out of water!
 
A 1 gallon garden sprayer! Never thought about that. Pretty good idea if you want to keep it simple plus it could work also when the electricity goes out at home. Hmmmm.
 
Art, on Sea Angel said:

I purchased an RV By-Pass kit for the water heater. All the fittings in the
water system have what looks like 5200 on all the threads. My initial effort
found these fittings would not budge; even with the clamps removed.

Has anyone disconnected these fittings? Was a heat gun needed? What is
the best way to go about this? Will they have to be destroyed and
replaced?

Never tried to get mine off Art, but if you have even a little slack, just cut the fitting out, close to it, you won't lose much hose.

Charlie
 
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