I originally bought a CD22 as it was light enough on the trailer (4000) to tow with my Isuzu trooper. The trooper was only a couple years old at the time and talking the wife into both a new boat and a tow vehicle was not something I wanted to attempt. The trooper tows the boat OK but I did add airlifts to the rear to keep things more level with the boat on. My experience was similar to others, it tows OK but up hill over a long range would not be so good.
Eventually, I decided to just buy a cheap used pickup. I found a 1984 F250 in very good shape with only 117k miles on it for $2500. It has a 351 cleveland and a much lower gear ratio. It still lugs a bit going up hill but in general tows much better than the trooper. Since I don't tow that often (once per 2 weeks on average), the cheap, dedicated tow vehicle was the better route for me. Now the trooper will go on sale as we'd rather have a sedan for commuting.
We regularly fish 3 for salmon fishing in a 22 cruiser. In fact I think 3 is the optimal number. With 3, two can be in the cockpit with a fish on - one on the rod and one on the net with the 3rd at the helm. I run 2 lines off the down riggers and a 3rd out the center with a cut plug on a banana weight. Not too much problem with lines tangling if the person piloting the boat knows what they're doing and pays attention. Usually, I leave it in gear when a fish is on and only bring in the center pole. Unless the fish is over 8-10#, I find we can generally land the fish and leave the other rod out to keep fishing. This takes a little practice and occasionally a boat turn or two to keep things apart but is manageable. Also, I find that leaving it in gear increases the # of fish we land as it's easier to keep some tension on the fish when the boat's moving a bit. Of course sometimes we get a double or a triple and then it's usually take the boat out of gear and things get interesting :lol: .
Another thing I usually do when fishing with 3 and trolling for salmon is to troll in the natural direction of the drift with enough power to go 1.8-2.5 kts relative to the water. That way it's usually possible to leave the helm for brief period with the engines in gear and still have the boat track a relatively straight line. OF COURSE I wouldn't do this in traffic or near shore but generally at a couple of knots (in reasonably calm seas) you can keep track of what's out front while standing in the cockpit and be back at the helm in PLENTY of time (2-3s) to deal with things if needed. In addition, if you're going the natural direction of the drift and have to take it out of gear and leave the helm for an extended period of time to help land a fish, the lines stay out the back of the boat and it's easier to keep tension on the fish. In this situation it's really helpful to have high speed reels (eg. Penn GT 310s or better) so you can keep tension on the fish when you take it out of gear.
Other thoughts -
I have found that running two lines off the same down rigger is more trouble than it's worth. I know a lot of people do this but I find it to be a pain when you really get into fish. The lines tangle more easily and if the upper line comes off it's not fishing until you bring the lower one in. If the lower one comes off, you can't re-set it with out reeling in the upper one....
Bottom fishing with three in the cockpit is also doable if the currents or winds are not too fast. We just jig with one on either side and one out the back.
If you do get a 22 with a camper back, make sure you have it designed with a zipper in the top near the bulkhead so it can be easily dropped or removed for fishing. The top can be pushed back for fishing but things are easier with it removed. Also, have the side walls fitted AFTER you mount the bases for the down riggers or better yet designed so you can leave the down riggers on with the camper back. Someone on the site has a camper back that goes clear to the back of the cockpit instead of the std. design that ends at the motor well. If the sides had some "pockets" with re-inforcements at the corners of the down riggers, you could leave the downriggers on all the time. On mine, I wind up taking them off to put the camper back on and then I have to store them in an already crowded garage.
I'd recommend Scotty electric downriggers with the extendable booms and a single rod holder mounted on the boom. I have the dual rod holders from the initial purchase but since I don't like to run two poles off the same downrigger, I replaced them with the single rod holders.
Also, get the white plastic holders for the down rigger balls and install them just inside the rear cleats at a position such that they are just below the booms when you swing the down riggers to point straight out the back. That will allow you to easily pick up the riggers and run to the next fishing hole or back to port without fiddling with the clips that hold the weights on (they're hard on the fingers).
I learned from Gary (gljjr) this past week that it's a lot easier to deal with things if you buy releases with 48" or 60" leads and cable clips. That way you can reach out with a de-hooker (which I didn't have on board) or a gaff to pull the release into the boat without leaning over or without tilting the down rigger up. Gary uses 60" leads on Scotty releases. Of course those weren't available at Neah Bay but I did stop in at Sekiu and get two with 48" leads. I'm making a de-hooker (a stick with a cup hook on the end) today.
Roger on the SeaDNA
