Portable Air Conditioner
- Thread starter BrentB
- Start date
mikeporterinmd
New member
Definitely not for use under way. However, I'd like to be able to leave it in if
the weather was bouncy while in the slip, or if I needed to move slips, etc.
Besides, I just paid $330 for a new opening window for the rear door.
Windows open when running unless it is winter...
In Maryland, in general, we are fine when on the water. It is when you
tie up in a marina with a bunch of bubble boats blocking all the air
around you that it gets really hot.
I really can't see hauling a generator, etc, to run this when anchored.
Plus, like Bob says, I'm rather leary of running a generator at night.
Fans will do when anchored out.
Right now, I'm thinking about a wood box of some sort that I can set over
the compass, lift the unit up on to it and then slide out the window.
Maybe a small piece of carpet to aid with the sliding. Since I'll probably
store in the V berth, I'll want to set the unit on something that allows me
to slide it without tearing the V-berth cushions.
I'll put that L piece on and see how the unit sits in the window.
This is such a great place to install an A/C. The unit is far from the back
deck, so that area is still useful. We once had one of those through the
hatch units, but it would get cold and drip condensate on you all night long.
Plus, it is not great sleeping with an A/C 18" over your head. We'll probably need
a fan to direct cool air into the V-berth.
The temp dropped outside yesterday evening, so I could not tell how well
the V would have been cooled.
The boat was out of the water, so the hull was pretty warm. The V would
probably have been cooler to start if the boat was in the water. It doesn't
take long to cool air, but it takes considerably longer to cool the
actual boat.
Mike
the weather was bouncy while in the slip, or if I needed to move slips, etc.
Besides, I just paid $330 for a new opening window for the rear door.
Windows open when running unless it is winter...
In Maryland, in general, we are fine when on the water. It is when you
tie up in a marina with a bunch of bubble boats blocking all the air
around you that it gets really hot.
I really can't see hauling a generator, etc, to run this when anchored.
Plus, like Bob says, I'm rather leary of running a generator at night.
Fans will do when anchored out.
Right now, I'm thinking about a wood box of some sort that I can set over
the compass, lift the unit up on to it and then slide out the window.
Maybe a small piece of carpet to aid with the sliding. Since I'll probably
store in the V berth, I'll want to set the unit on something that allows me
to slide it without tearing the V-berth cushions.
I'll put that L piece on and see how the unit sits in the window.
This is such a great place to install an A/C. The unit is far from the back
deck, so that area is still useful. We once had one of those through the
hatch units, but it would get cold and drip condensate on you all night long.
Plus, it is not great sleeping with an A/C 18" over your head. We'll probably need
a fan to direct cool air into the V-berth.
The temp dropped outside yesterday evening, so I could not tell how well
the V would have been cooled.
The boat was out of the water, so the hull was pretty warm. The V would
probably have been cooler to start if the boat was in the water. It doesn't
take long to cool air, but it takes considerably longer to cool the
actual boat.
Mike
mikeporterinmd
New member
I didn't photograph that side...I will if I go into the boat tonight. With that
specific model, there are no clearance issues with the window brace.
Mike
specific model, there are no clearance issues with the window brace.
Mike
mikeporterinmd":1f4j0dn3 said:We just kind of plopped it up there to see if it would fit. Have to be careful
not to mash the compass. How are others securing the unit? If I install
the L bracket that came with it across the top, is that likely to be enough?
Worked well. Cooled the cabin off in just a few minutes and dried out
the air nicely. There are more photos in my album.
The digital temperature setting is worth it. The remote control...well...
Thanks,
Mike
Exactly how I did it with my Frigidare. I don't see it for use underway either, but it is so easy to plop it in the front window, I may well use it when anchored fishing. With a light east wind, the hot land mass air comes out and settles on the coast and combined with the humidity it is awful in summer. When I have company, it should keep them comfortable even on the hottest of days.
I'm finally a cool dude.
mikeporterinmd
New member
flagold":1gws5jc8 said:
I know what you mean. We've wanted A/C for 10 years, but never
felt like laying out out the $1500 or more for marine air. This is
our first season with the C-Dory, so it's cool to find a relatively simply
solution that appears to work.
Mike
mikeporterinmd
New member
I installed the bracket on top the opposite way it would be installed if the
unit was used in a window and the position worked out well. Put some
of the adhesive foam it came with on the bracket to protect the paint
on the forward hatch.
I think we are going to carry a piece of 2x4 and stand that next to the
compass when removing or installing. Gives me a balance point other than
the compass! I also have a small piece of carpet that I place over the
hatch frame. We also use this carpet to slide the unit around in the
V berth without damaging the fabric.
The unit fits in nice tight against the helm console cover
in the V berth (we have a fiberglass cover, not fabric). I ran a strap
through the cover and around the A/C to hold it place while running.
Still not sure where the condensate drains. Guess I'll find out...
Mike
unit was used in a window and the position worked out well. Put some
of the adhesive foam it came with on the bracket to protect the paint
on the forward hatch.
I think we are going to carry a piece of 2x4 and stand that next to the
compass when removing or installing. Gives me a balance point other than
the compass! I also have a small piece of carpet that I place over the
hatch frame. We also use this carpet to slide the unit around in the
V berth without damaging the fabric.
The unit fits in nice tight against the helm console cover
in the V berth (we have a fiberglass cover, not fabric). I ran a strap
through the cover and around the A/C to hold it place while running.
Still not sure where the condensate drains. Guess I'll find out...
Mike
Mike,
what did you do to the front window brace/holder that normally keeps the window open when tightened. On mine, it is attached high on the port side of the window frame and looks like it would be in the way. If I remove it, I won't be able to keep the window open when I want to.
Chris
what did you do to the front window brace/holder that normally keeps the window open when tightened. On mine, it is attached high on the port side of the window frame and looks like it would be in the way. If I remove it, I won't be able to keep the window open when I want to.
Chris
mikeporterinmd
New member
CHardy":1vmpwcke said:
It's not in the way. The A/C is narrower than the distance from the stbd
side of the window to the bracket mount. About the only thing you have
to watch is make sure the hatch is open 100% of the way or the unit
could hit and possibly scratch the opened portion of the window.
Mike
Mike,
have you thought about using winter water pipe protection sponge to slip on each window frame. Might be easy to put on and take off and still protect the metal.
also, I think the condensation will drain outside since it seems to tilt backward with placed in the window.
I will try to install mine this week and share if I come up with anything useful.
Chris
have you thought about using winter water pipe protection sponge to slip on each window frame. Might be easy to put on and take off and still protect the metal.
also, I think the condensation will drain outside since it seems to tilt backward with placed in the window.
I will try to install mine this week and share if I come up with anything useful.
Chris
Wayne McCown
New member
Mike's pics are helpful. Note my earlier comments about the use of thin insulation (backed on both sides with aluminum foil) to close off the "gap" around the AC unit. Wayne
mikeporterinmd
New member
CHardy":3chg6iw3 said:
That's a good idea. I'm also thinking about Velcro-ing life jacket foam to
the A/C such that it sits tight against the frame of the window to give a good
bug seal. For this coming weekend, we'll probably just use rags or towels.
(I always save old life jacket foam. It is quite useful since it is a closed
cell foam. It is usually in pieces about 1/8" thick and shaped like the pieces
of the jacket.)
Mike
Well, the time is getting short for us to get the CD 25 finished and get to Powell late Sept, I was getting near heat stroke trying to work on it during the day, and even evenings, plus we need AC for the nights on the trip when we trailer the boat to Powell and Calif. So...I sprung for one of the $87 5,000 BTU units at Wally World. I put it in temporarily with styrofoam around the sides (not really tight) in the front window. It is light enough to take in and out each night when we need it, and store on the floor under the bunk etc. Even with temp (thermometer in the sun) of 105 and shade of 95, it brought the temp down at least 15 degrees in the day. (of course I put reflective bubble insullation on the windows and some shade to help. But I am amazed that the 5,000 BTU cheapie can bring the temp down to a level wlhere it is comfortable to work!
The more perment solution for sealing will most likely be back packing pad closed cell foam around the sides, and then we will put similar insullation between the windows and the window coverings on the inside to increase the insullation of the pilot house of the CD 25. It will be adequate to cool the sleeping area of the CD 25 at Powell, even in the hot months at night.
I'll get photos up when I have the perment insullation rigged.
The more perment solution for sealing will most likely be back packing pad closed cell foam around the sides, and then we will put similar insullation between the windows and the window coverings on the inside to increase the insullation of the pilot house of the CD 25. It will be adequate to cool the sleeping area of the CD 25 at Powell, even in the hot months at night.
I'll get photos up when I have the perment insullation rigged.
One has to aclimate in Florida--plus we have a pool and can jump in when we get overheated!
On the other hand, after spending over a year in the tropics, when we came North, sailing off Acapulco in May we put on our long johns--it got down to 70 at night!
We wear winter parkas in the summer in the PNW..
On the other hand, after spending over a year in the tropics, when we came North, sailing off Acapulco in May we put on our long johns--it got down to 70 at night!
We wear winter parkas in the summer in the PNW..
Today I did some studies on the CD 25 with the 5,000 window AC . The outside temp 6" above the cockpit deck was 97. Temperature on top of the hanging locker (furthest from the air conditioner) was 82--so the 15 degree drop I had estimated was correct. I put the Kill a watt meter on the air conditioner. At rest the line voltage was 115, on start up it dropped to 109, but came up to 113.8. This is using a 25 foot #12 Cord, on a 30 amp circuit with #8 wiring about 100 feet from the main breaker box, and a 13,500 bTU AC running on the RV off the same circuit.
The fan alone drew 0.53 amps. Start up peak was 6.7 amps, and running load stabalized at 4.9 amps. These numbers suggest that a Honda EU 1000i would run this Air conditioner--the 2000 would run it easily. The honda would not run the water heater, so that is a disdavantage, unless I can find a 800 watt heater element some where, or use an 800 watt flow thru heater. The 1000 is lighter and uses less fuel, plus will give fairly good battery charging ability.
We made some window coverings (inside) out of the bubble/mylar material used to reflect the car windshield heat. We are experimenting with full wall covering, above the counters vs just the window, with the foil/bubble between the Sunbrella covering and the window. The former, covering the entire upper deck house wall, gives better insullation. The "Cost" is putting snaps in the material 5 to 6" in from the edges.
I am surprised that the 5000 BTU unit cools as well as it does--and with the "breeze" from the unit, it is a comfortable environment for working inside of the boat. I still have to fabricate the seal around the front window. Probably used the fan folded plastic which comes for "windows casements" with snaps to the inside, and Sunbrella, with insulation foam for the upper part, snapping to the inside of the opening window and the top of the AC unit.
The fan alone drew 0.53 amps. Start up peak was 6.7 amps, and running load stabalized at 4.9 amps. These numbers suggest that a Honda EU 1000i would run this Air conditioner--the 2000 would run it easily. The honda would not run the water heater, so that is a disdavantage, unless I can find a 800 watt heater element some where, or use an 800 watt flow thru heater. The 1000 is lighter and uses less fuel, plus will give fairly good battery charging ability.
We made some window coverings (inside) out of the bubble/mylar material used to reflect the car windshield heat. We are experimenting with full wall covering, above the counters vs just the window, with the foil/bubble between the Sunbrella covering and the window. The former, covering the entire upper deck house wall, gives better insullation. The "Cost" is putting snaps in the material 5 to 6" in from the edges.
I am surprised that the 5000 BTU unit cools as well as it does--and with the "breeze" from the unit, it is a comfortable environment for working inside of the boat. I still have to fabricate the seal around the front window. Probably used the fan folded plastic which comes for "windows casements" with snaps to the inside, and Sunbrella, with insulation foam for the upper part, snapping to the inside of the opening window and the top of the AC unit.
William and Beth Tucker
New member
Bob, what did you say ! I'am a slow learner because Warren hit me on the head with his post. Keep your life jacket on ! beth and william tucker
We made a Sunbrella cover for the top and sides of the air conditioner to keep rain and hot air out of the cabin of the CD 25. The Sunbrella snaps on the inside of the window frame. The "wings" from the sides of the air conditioner were brought inside and snapped the inside of the frame. We used foam pipe insullation material to seal and insullate the gaps--under the AC unit, over the lower lip, and two larger pieces on the top, plus 1/2" around the braces and top of the "wings". Close to being water tight. It is easy to put up and use. The air conditioner will be left in place when in Pensacola. Then occasionally used when "road camping" and on the Western Lakes in the summer. The AC will be carried on the foreward bunk when undereay.
The plywood is temporary and will be smaller, and epoxy saturated, with felt "feet" onder it to avoid any scratching of the foreward hatch.
The plywood is temporary and will be smaller, and epoxy saturated, with felt "feet" onder it to avoid any scratching of the foreward hatch.
Wayne McCown
New member
I recently saw (in one of my boating magazines) advertisement for an AC conversion hood. Retailing for $349.95 and currently on sale for $299.95, the description reads: "a boat hatch cover used on most deck hatch openings, which stores window air conditioners for non-stop cooling on board."
Check it out at www.moby-cool.com
Check it out at www.moby-cool.com