Portable Air Conditioner
- Thread starter BrentB
- Start date
OK... The good, the bad, and the ugly.....
It was August and 97 degrees. I had an entire week I could spend on Lake Martin. I had a brain fa....burp. Why not just build me a stand like TVs sit on in briefing rooms, and let the cheap $100 5,000 AC window unit blow in from the aft windows. Spent about $10 on 1x3 pine for this "proto-type-let's just try it" set up.
It worked great. ZERO holes drilled in the boat. Mounts/dismounts in 10 minutes, 5 of which is just putting on a bit of duct tape...BUT....do put it in the port aft window....cause when you go to back into a slip you can not see backwards without leaning over into the aisle and looking out the door....but, if you get lucky as I did... you slip the boat right inbetween a 35' and 40+' Sea Ray/Maximum..... toss a rope and go on in for dinner.
IT IS UGLY. IT WAS AND ENDED up being used just as was... but, I proved my point, and had a blast in the 97+ degree heat with 85+ % humidity.....
Now once you stop laughing at the red-neck-back porch set up...you have to realize that once rafted up with several 30+' boats....of the design mentioned above.... the kids loved MY BOAT!!! They could close the cabin door, turn on the raw water wash down...spray each other and everything in sight down to the max...have a blast....and not get hollerd at for getting the $riken boat wet.... You have to love a real boat.
End plan was to rebuild the stand, or at least cover the stand with bead-board, painting it white as to match the boat. Have a "top" section that simply folded down when the AC was in use from the 3 exposed sides. This added me a place to store the 2nd size "Big Green Egg" in the lower portion, along with a place to hang ropes, and store other little things that we always need to stow. Without drilling holes was accomplished by using bungee cords that were attached to the aft bulkhead by the earlier installed "rope hooks?" that were also bungee material.
Step 1: Put the stand next to the wall and bungee it to the wall.
Step 2: Place the AC on the stand and run the power cord thru the open window, to the plug behind the helm seat.
Step 3: Add the grey foam stuff used when mounting the AC unit in a home window for a good seal around the window.
Step 4: Use a bit of duct tape for a good seal.
Step 5: Plug her in and watch the humidity leave and the temp drop.
Yes... in our climate it produced a bunch of condinsation. I simply taped a very small funnel to the aft edge corner allowing the "pan" of the AC to maintain the water needed for cooling the unit itself, and the drain off ran down to the funnel, and out a small clear plastic tube routed down the under edge of the gunnel shelves, and down to the scuppers.
The AC this year is still working...but in a shed now...
What I liked about it was:
1: IT WORKED.
2: I did not have to screw around each day/night putting it in/out.
3: It mounted/dismounted in less than 15 minutes (after initial learning curve/try outs) as to allow me to trailer the boat, or for the winter months.
4: For less than $150 (figuring if I had bought a sheet of bead-board and hinges/clasp, and quart of paint/primer)... I had AC that could be used while on the trailer, or in the boat.
5: I no longer had to worry about the $riken little bugs that can/do get thru the screens that are the perfect size to restrict air flow, but only give our insects down here a play ground and landing zone to rest a bit on before coming on into the boat and bitting the shinola out of you all night.
6: GREAT SLEEEEEEEEEEEPING.
BYRDMAN :thup
Chill My Fellow C-Brats.... :beer :beer :smiled [/img]
It just so happened that I researched AC today for the boat I'm buying from Wefings. In my case, adding a rooftop unit would be difficult because of space constraints. So, the best option seems to be a marine (water cooled) unit. I also like the fact that it doesn't add weight up high. Here's what I found.
The main constraint seems to be the power supply. I'd like to stay with the 2000EU Honda, because of weight and noise. It puts out a maximum amperage of 16.7 amps, and is rated to run continously at 13.3 amps.
I am told that the typical starting amperage is 1.8 times the running (or so-called "rated" or "full load" amperage." (Maybe one of the soft start models can reduce that peak.) In addition, the water circulating pump takes about 1 amp. So, to use the 2000EU Honda, the AC should be rated to run continuously at no more than 8.25 amps. (8.25 amps + 1 amp) x 1.8 = 16.65 amps starting load
Rotary compressors apparently are quieter and take less amperage than piston compressors.
Many of the available units have reverse cycle heat, which uses about half as much power as a heating strip.
King Air makes a reverse cycle 8,000 BTU rotary compressor unit (Model D-8) that cools at 7.5 amps, (7.5 + 1) x 1.8 = 15.3 maximum starting amps. These are sold out of Largo, Florida. The website does not quote a separate amperage for reverse cycle. http://www.king-air.net/specs.html
Mermaid Marine Air makes a reverse cycle 9,000 BTU rotary compressor unit (Model M9) that cools at 7 amps, (7 +1) x 1.8 = 14.4 maximum starting amps. It heats on reverse cycle at 8 amps, (8 +1) x 1.8 = 16.2 amps. http://wrightmarine.net/page4.html They are sold by Wright Marine, out of Riverview, Florida, which apparently is near Tampa Bay, and they do installations.
Marine Air Systems makes the Cabin Mate reverse cycle 7,000 BTU rotary compressor unit (Model SCMCD7K) that cools at 6.8 amps, (6.8 +1) x 1.8 = 14.04 maximum starting amps. The website does not quote the reverse cycle load. They are sold by West Marine. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... /583/35/12
Aqua Air makes a reverse cycle 10,000 BTU unit that cools at 8 amps, (8 + 1) x 1.8 = 16.2 starting amps. They are located in Hialeah, Florida. http://www.aquaair.net/80706-MINI_KOOL.pdf
I hope this is helpful. I also found the following link helpful. http://wrightmarine.net/page9.html
- Bill Hudgins -
The main constraint seems to be the power supply. I'd like to stay with the 2000EU Honda, because of weight and noise. It puts out a maximum amperage of 16.7 amps, and is rated to run continously at 13.3 amps.
I am told that the typical starting amperage is 1.8 times the running (or so-called "rated" or "full load" amperage." (Maybe one of the soft start models can reduce that peak.) In addition, the water circulating pump takes about 1 amp. So, to use the 2000EU Honda, the AC should be rated to run continuously at no more than 8.25 amps. (8.25 amps + 1 amp) x 1.8 = 16.65 amps starting load
Rotary compressors apparently are quieter and take less amperage than piston compressors.
Many of the available units have reverse cycle heat, which uses about half as much power as a heating strip.
King Air makes a reverse cycle 8,000 BTU rotary compressor unit (Model D-8) that cools at 7.5 amps, (7.5 + 1) x 1.8 = 15.3 maximum starting amps. These are sold out of Largo, Florida. The website does not quote a separate amperage for reverse cycle. http://www.king-air.net/specs.html
Mermaid Marine Air makes a reverse cycle 9,000 BTU rotary compressor unit (Model M9) that cools at 7 amps, (7 +1) x 1.8 = 14.4 maximum starting amps. It heats on reverse cycle at 8 amps, (8 +1) x 1.8 = 16.2 amps. http://wrightmarine.net/page4.html They are sold by Wright Marine, out of Riverview, Florida, which apparently is near Tampa Bay, and they do installations.
Marine Air Systems makes the Cabin Mate reverse cycle 7,000 BTU rotary compressor unit (Model SCMCD7K) that cools at 6.8 amps, (6.8 +1) x 1.8 = 14.04 maximum starting amps. The website does not quote the reverse cycle load. They are sold by West Marine. http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... /583/35/12
Aqua Air makes a reverse cycle 10,000 BTU unit that cools at 8 amps, (8 + 1) x 1.8 = 16.2 starting amps. They are located in Hialeah, Florida. http://www.aquaair.net/80706-MINI_KOOL.pdf
I hope this is helpful. I also found the following link helpful. http://wrightmarine.net/page9.html
- Bill Hudgins -
Hi Bill,
I recieved good feed back regarding the quality of the Mermaid unit when I posted for info on another site.
I'm pretty sure this is the direction I will go when the time comes.
If I remeber correctly, several places bragged that the eu1000 would work fine for the lowest two sizes(5k and 6.5k) so the eu2000 should work fine
I had to move this to the back burner temporarily. I'm setting up a whole house generator for power during hurricane season, and its eating money at a rather alarming rate.
If your looking for a good source for the eu2000 try here.
http://www.wisesales.com/HondaGenNEW.html
I recieved good feed back regarding the quality of the Mermaid unit when I posted for info on another site.
I'm pretty sure this is the direction I will go when the time comes.
If I remeber correctly, several places bragged that the eu1000 would work fine for the lowest two sizes(5k and 6.5k) so the eu2000 should work fine
I had to move this to the back burner temporarily. I'm setting up a whole house generator for power during hurricane season, and its eating money at a rather alarming rate.
If your looking for a good source for the eu2000 try here.
http://www.wisesales.com/HondaGenNEW.html
Bill,
I appologize, but I am not sure what boat you are buying. I believe you looked at a C Dory 22, and then talked about a Maritime Challanger 23 and some other boat. I think that 8,000 BTU would be OK for the 22, but it would take a lot of the limited storage space--have no idea for the Maritime Challanger--nor do I know where it would go in the Maritime Skiff. I know I keep pushing the roof air, but they are the most practical, becuase they don't take up any room on the inside. The wieight on the top is not a problem on the larger boats. The problem with the built in marine units (other than they don't work when the boat is on the trailer, or aground), is that they require the pump, a thru hull, and a condensate drain--all of which of course take up room in a small boat. One of the main problems with the marine units is plugging up the intake--small fish, jelly fish and sea grass/weed are often culprets. Also the risk of thru hulls, when we try and avoid these in the small boats. If you have a thru hull put in, be sure that the core is properly sealed--very few people do this properly.
I prefer a direct resistance heater for heating for a number of reasons, including it does not depend on plumbing and does still work well in very cold temperatures.
The start up calculation is off slightly, since the water circulating pump does not require the surge that the compressor does. The Honda, being an alternator inverter will take brief surges larger, but you really are limited to prolonged run at rated output. You would prefer to have the generator on eco mood. If it is on full power mode it is always running at full RPM--eco mode it allows the speed to vary with the load.
Agree that Wise sales is a good source of Hondas. I have been involved in power buys where shipping and tax were not an issue.
I appologize, but I am not sure what boat you are buying. I believe you looked at a C Dory 22, and then talked about a Maritime Challanger 23 and some other boat. I think that 8,000 BTU would be OK for the 22, but it would take a lot of the limited storage space--have no idea for the Maritime Challanger--nor do I know where it would go in the Maritime Skiff. I know I keep pushing the roof air, but they are the most practical, becuase they don't take up any room on the inside. The wieight on the top is not a problem on the larger boats. The problem with the built in marine units (other than they don't work when the boat is on the trailer, or aground), is that they require the pump, a thru hull, and a condensate drain--all of which of course take up room in a small boat. One of the main problems with the marine units is plugging up the intake--small fish, jelly fish and sea grass/weed are often culprets. Also the risk of thru hulls, when we try and avoid these in the small boats. If you have a thru hull put in, be sure that the core is properly sealed--very few people do this properly.
I prefer a direct resistance heater for heating for a number of reasons, including it does not depend on plumbing and does still work well in very cold temperatures.
The start up calculation is off slightly, since the water circulating pump does not require the surge that the compressor does. The Honda, being an alternator inverter will take brief surges larger, but you really are limited to prolonged run at rated output. You would prefer to have the generator on eco mood. If it is on full power mode it is always running at full RPM--eco mode it allows the speed to vary with the load.
Agree that Wise sales is a good source of Hondas. I have been involved in power buys where shipping and tax were not an issue.
I agree with Bob, the roof air solves a lot of potential problems. Several years ago we we in the southern Ches bay and our friends intake became clogged with small jelly fish. No air on the hottest July 4th in many years. More bad news his AC pump used the thru hull for the head. Diving under to clear it required exposing ones self to the stinging nettles. Not a good thing.
Fred, Pat and Mr. Grey (the cat)
Fred, Pat and Mr. Grey (the cat)
Bob,
Thanks much for the info. Duh! You are right about the error in my starting load calculations. The actual maximum rated running amps with the Honda 2000EU should be 8.72 amps, again assuming that the compressor needs 1.8x the running amps to start.
I finally decided to go with the 23' Maritime Challenger, which is the closest thing to a 25' C-Dory Angler if they made 'em. It has a pilothouse, the hull is light and economical, and the cuddy is enormous for the boat's size. Still, it needs galley add-ons. Different subject for a different thread.
Anyway, I was being encouraged to go with roof air until the salesman, Buzz, took a serious look at the top of the Maritime. He came up with the idea of marine AC, which I had never heard of before.
Up top there is little room compared to a C-Dory cruiser. It's already got a 20" radome, a GPS antenna, a white light and two VHS antennas. http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/5/0/85616750.htm There's maybe room behind the radome, though I'd lose a 4" ventilation hatch, but then the radome would have to be mounted higher.
The radar already sits 10 feet high or more when the boat is on the trailer; the boat itself has to be 8 feet tall from keel to roof. It seems tall compared to the C-Dory. Unlike the C-Dory, it has a bilge and the bilge houses a 83 gallon fuel tank and a 14 gallon water tank. There's a diagram: http://www.maritimeboats.com/challenger23.html
There's room under the seats to put the marine AC. I wasn't aware of the intake problems though. I assume they will put a screen between the intake and the pump. And, you'd think there would be a way of flushing the line from the cockpit as suggested somewhere here, but I've never seen an installation.
We travel with a big truck camper, so on-shore AC is not necessary. However, we also plan to pilot some dirty water, because my two college boys are situated at Mizzou, near the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, and we hope to cruise the ICW also. So, I guess if we get the marine AC we're gonna discover the drawbacks. Right now, however, my best guess, and I haven't done anything yet, is to avoid piling things higher on the roof.
Any other comments would be appreciated.
- Bill -
Thanks much for the info. Duh! You are right about the error in my starting load calculations. The actual maximum rated running amps with the Honda 2000EU should be 8.72 amps, again assuming that the compressor needs 1.8x the running amps to start.
I finally decided to go with the 23' Maritime Challenger, which is the closest thing to a 25' C-Dory Angler if they made 'em. It has a pilothouse, the hull is light and economical, and the cuddy is enormous for the boat's size. Still, it needs galley add-ons. Different subject for a different thread.
Anyway, I was being encouraged to go with roof air until the salesman, Buzz, took a serious look at the top of the Maritime. He came up with the idea of marine AC, which I had never heard of before.
Up top there is little room compared to a C-Dory cruiser. It's already got a 20" radome, a GPS antenna, a white light and two VHS antennas. http://adcache.boattraderonline.com/6/5/0/85616750.htm There's maybe room behind the radome, though I'd lose a 4" ventilation hatch, but then the radome would have to be mounted higher.
The radar already sits 10 feet high or more when the boat is on the trailer; the boat itself has to be 8 feet tall from keel to roof. It seems tall compared to the C-Dory. Unlike the C-Dory, it has a bilge and the bilge houses a 83 gallon fuel tank and a 14 gallon water tank. There's a diagram: http://www.maritimeboats.com/challenger23.html
There's room under the seats to put the marine AC. I wasn't aware of the intake problems though. I assume they will put a screen between the intake and the pump. And, you'd think there would be a way of flushing the line from the cockpit as suggested somewhere here, but I've never seen an installation.
We travel with a big truck camper, so on-shore AC is not necessary. However, we also plan to pilot some dirty water, because my two college boys are situated at Mizzou, near the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers, and we hope to cruise the ICW also. So, I guess if we get the marine AC we're gonna discover the drawbacks. Right now, however, my best guess, and I haven't done anything yet, is to avoid piling things higher on the roof.
Any other comments would be appreciated.
- Bill -
As just posted on "jack rigged A/C" thread:
Pep Boys has a 12,000 Btu portable A/C unit which needs only a 3" diameter air exhaust hose - no condensate hose needed. It uses 8.5 running amps, weighs 65 pounds and is 30" X 15" X 16" - smaller, lighter and more efficient than my old GE 7,000 Btu unit. Cost = $479.
John
Pep Boys has a 12,000 Btu portable A/C unit which needs only a 3" diameter air exhaust hose - no condensate hose needed. It uses 8.5 running amps, weighs 65 pounds and is 30" X 15" X 16" - smaller, lighter and more efficient than my old GE 7,000 Btu unit. Cost = $479.
John
The typical marine air conditioner will have a thru hull with a perforated cover over the outside of the thru hull. There will also be a basket strainer before the pump. Despite these, the strainer can become plugged with fish, jelly fish or weeds. I have rigged back flush arrangements, but in some areas the jelly fish are such that a net around the boat is better. The back flush takes time and has to be assembled etc. It will work. But you don't want to burn up a pump or compressor before you discover the problem. If these probelms occur will depend on where you boat.
You are certainly correct that there is not much room on the roof of this boat for an AC. Of course there are lots of other differences between this boat and the C Dories also, including hull forum, and probably construction technique. I saw the 23 at the Pensacola Boat show, but didn't pay much attention to it, since it was not something we would be interested in.
Although this entire part of the thread gets away from C Dories, I wonder where you would put the generator to safely run it? Also there does not seem to be any aft bulkhead, (maybe an option?) so wonder how you are "containing the cold". I assume that this will be a day tripper, without a galley--or is there a galley option which I am missing? Also with the large windows, and slanted glass, I suspect that this boat will take on more heat than a comperable 22 C Dory. It also appears that the boat reqires more HP, and is a V hull, rather than a semi dory.
You are certainly correct that there is not much room on the roof of this boat for an AC. Of course there are lots of other differences between this boat and the C Dories also, including hull forum, and probably construction technique. I saw the 23 at the Pensacola Boat show, but didn't pay much attention to it, since it was not something we would be interested in.
Although this entire part of the thread gets away from C Dories, I wonder where you would put the generator to safely run it? Also there does not seem to be any aft bulkhead, (maybe an option?) so wonder how you are "containing the cold". I assume that this will be a day tripper, without a galley--or is there a galley option which I am missing? Also with the large windows, and slanted glass, I suspect that this boat will take on more heat than a comperable 22 C Dory. It also appears that the boat reqires more HP, and is a V hull, rather than a semi dory.
Bob,
No doubt you are correct about the shortcomings of the marine AC intake line. I just have no reasonable alternative. The roof type is much less expensive, and has the benefits you described. I assume it is similar in efficiency and has similar power requirements. The only advantages I can see in going with marine AC unit are the lower placement of weight and the lack of interference with roof-mounted electronics. I also agree that the Maritime will be a solar collector compared to the C-Dory.
We have space to install a marine unit under the seat pods, which are composed of forward and rear-facing seats on the particular boat we are purchasing. We finally settled on the Aqua Air unit, which is 10,000 BTU, draws 8 amps, and is 20"x10.6"x12". Aqua Air products are widely available, so spare parts and service should be no problem.
I would have preferred a C-Dory for its fuel efficiency and just plain good looks, but couldn't handle the enclosed space of the cruiser cabin. The Martime has the lightest hull and shallowest V we could find with a usable cuddy - much larger than the C-Dory. The Arima cruiser was actually the closest next alternative, but its cuddy was quite small.
Our boat comes with a canvas window and door curtain for the pilothouse(could get a glass bulkhead but don't want it) and we are having a complete canvas camperback made. The galley issue is problematic. The builder offers a passenger seat pod with a sink and stovetop that would fit inside the pilothouse, but you lose the port side rear-facing seat. For now, we are thinking of using a West Marine propane stove that mounts in the gunwale rod holders. For a table, we are thinking of the single pedestal type using a flush mounted socket, perhaps utilizing the rear-facing seats. The table could be stowed when not in use.
I'm hoping to use the swim platform for the generator location. Everyone is telling me that CO2 is the bane of generator use, so I want it out of the cockpit and below the gunwales if possible. Haven't yet figured out how to mount it or protect it from waves. I wonder if someone has solved that problem with a waterproof case that clamps down or straps down to a platform.
I'm a fish out of water in this forum, unfortunately. So, I hope my comments are well taken and maybe useful even though we went for a different boat. This simply is the best forum for ideas and discussion of cruising and practical solutions in existence. I greatly appreciate the generosity of you and others, in sharing your experiences.
- Bill -
No doubt you are correct about the shortcomings of the marine AC intake line. I just have no reasonable alternative. The roof type is much less expensive, and has the benefits you described. I assume it is similar in efficiency and has similar power requirements. The only advantages I can see in going with marine AC unit are the lower placement of weight and the lack of interference with roof-mounted electronics. I also agree that the Maritime will be a solar collector compared to the C-Dory.
We have space to install a marine unit under the seat pods, which are composed of forward and rear-facing seats on the particular boat we are purchasing. We finally settled on the Aqua Air unit, which is 10,000 BTU, draws 8 amps, and is 20"x10.6"x12". Aqua Air products are widely available, so spare parts and service should be no problem.
I would have preferred a C-Dory for its fuel efficiency and just plain good looks, but couldn't handle the enclosed space of the cruiser cabin. The Martime has the lightest hull and shallowest V we could find with a usable cuddy - much larger than the C-Dory. The Arima cruiser was actually the closest next alternative, but its cuddy was quite small.
Our boat comes with a canvas window and door curtain for the pilothouse(could get a glass bulkhead but don't want it) and we are having a complete canvas camperback made. The galley issue is problematic. The builder offers a passenger seat pod with a sink and stovetop that would fit inside the pilothouse, but you lose the port side rear-facing seat. For now, we are thinking of using a West Marine propane stove that mounts in the gunwale rod holders. For a table, we are thinking of the single pedestal type using a flush mounted socket, perhaps utilizing the rear-facing seats. The table could be stowed when not in use.
I'm hoping to use the swim platform for the generator location. Everyone is telling me that CO2 is the bane of generator use, so I want it out of the cockpit and below the gunwales if possible. Haven't yet figured out how to mount it or protect it from waves. I wonder if someone has solved that problem with a waterproof case that clamps down or straps down to a platform.
I'm a fish out of water in this forum, unfortunately. So, I hope my comments are well taken and maybe useful even though we went for a different boat. This simply is the best forum for ideas and discussion of cruising and practical solutions in existence. I greatly appreciate the generosity of you and others, in sharing your experiences.
- Bill -
Clean forgot to mention that my research found a truly portable type of AC that sits in the cuddy escape hatch. The Dometic puts out 6,720 BTU's and draws only 6.9 amps. Cost is about $850.00, but there's one on Craigslist for $450.00. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/boa/329066882.html
Don't know if it is safe to let it sit in the escape hatch while the boat is underway, but here are the links:
http://www.cruisair.com/sheets/L-0860.pdf and
http://www.cruisair.com/carry.html
Also, here's some folks that used a portable window AC and sewed a little boot out of Sunbrella to make a duct through their cuddy escape hatch.
http://windom.cybox.com/logs/2002/07.12.html
- Bill -
Don't know if it is safe to let it sit in the escape hatch while the boat is underway, but here are the links:
http://www.cruisair.com/sheets/L-0860.pdf and
http://www.cruisair.com/carry.html
Also, here's some folks that used a portable window AC and sewed a little boot out of Sunbrella to make a duct through their cuddy escape hatch.
http://windom.cybox.com/logs/2002/07.12.html
- Bill -
patrick and linda
New member
i recently purchased the frigidare 5000 btu unit. put it to work this past weekend. worked well, but did discover that the cuddy hatch let in far to much heat, generated from mr. sun. so, i ordered a 28" x 28" sunbrella cover for the hatch.
i'm thinking about having the same guy design a cover, secured by velcro, to the ac unit and then attached to the inside of the window frame. this unit is placed in the cabin front window opening.
pat
i'm thinking about having the same guy design a cover, secured by velcro, to the ac unit and then attached to the inside of the window frame. this unit is placed in the cabin front window opening.
pat
Definately get a shade of some sort for the foreward hatch--we use an iniside type of window shade, and can put "Bubble wrap" between it and the window. We also use auto windshield reflectors on the side and front windows.
It is Carbon Monoxide, not CO2 which is the problem with generators.
You definately need a very good CO moniter--see previous threads on this.
I have used the fit on the top of the hatch , and making baffles for window units from door skins etc--they do work, but are not all that effecient. Again the problem with dragging them out and setting them and the curtains which direct the air to work. Lots for sale used, because they are not as satisfactory as other solutions.
Most likely the 10,000 BTU unit will work, but you will not run the generator when under way. Too much danger of water on the unit and damage, plus shock hazard from the unit on the swim step. Look at my album for using the plastic milk crate to get the generator up--but even with that I would not run it when under way.
We had a 13,500 RV ac unit on the top of an insulated (3" foam") hard top flying bridge on a trawlerabout 10' x 12' space--lots of vinly around the sides. In the hotest part of the day, it was not adequate--fine at night (we had an 8 KW genset and 40,000 BTU of marine airconditioning below decks)
It is Carbon Monoxide, not CO2 which is the problem with generators.
You definately need a very good CO moniter--see previous threads on this.
I have used the fit on the top of the hatch , and making baffles for window units from door skins etc--they do work, but are not all that effecient. Again the problem with dragging them out and setting them and the curtains which direct the air to work. Lots for sale used, because they are not as satisfactory as other solutions.
Most likely the 10,000 BTU unit will work, but you will not run the generator when under way. Too much danger of water on the unit and damage, plus shock hazard from the unit on the swim step. Look at my album for using the plastic milk crate to get the generator up--but even with that I would not run it when under way.
We had a 13,500 RV ac unit on the top of an insulated (3" foam") hard top flying bridge on a trawlerabout 10' x 12' space--lots of vinly around the sides. In the hotest part of the day, it was not adequate--fine at night (we had an 8 KW genset and 40,000 BTU of marine airconditioning below decks)
Bob, you're the greatest! Thank you for the info and ideas on generator use. I see you elevated it quite a bit off the water. Extra tank and holder are also something that hadn't occurred to me.
Hadn't seen your album before - wow, nice camperback. Lots of good ideas too.
- Bill -
Hadn't seen your album before - wow, nice camperback. Lots of good ideas too.
- Bill -
mikeporterinmd
New member
The FAX054P7A is on sale at Best Buy for $99. Not sure how long.
In Maryland/Delaware, anyhow.
Mike
In Maryland/Delaware, anyhow.
Mike
mikeporterinmd
New member
We just kind of plopped it up there to see if it would fit. Have to be careful
not to mash the compass. How are others securing the unit? If I install
the L bracket that came with it across the top, is that likely to be enough?
Worked well. Cooled the cabin off in just a few minutes and dried out
the air nicely. There are more photos in my album.
The digital temperature setting is worth it. The remote control...well...
Thanks,
Mike
not to mash the compass. How are others securing the unit? If I install
the L bracket that came with it across the top, is that likely to be enough?
Worked well. Cooled the cabin off in just a few minutes and dried out
the air nicely. There are more photos in my album.
The digital temperature setting is worth it. The remote control...well...
Thanks,
Mike
mikeporterinmd":2ikmr20x said:
Are you planning to use the unit underway or just in the marina, etc?
I don't think the L-bracket that is intended for stationary domestic use would be adequate for use underway, in waves, chop, etc.
The problem for designing a support system to use it underway is to figure out just how to do it without drilling a bunch of holes in the trunk part of the deck!