Port Orford Lift Points

T

Telsta860

New member
Hello,

I have taken the plunge and purchased a 1990 22' Angler. It's been meticulously maintained and what a great boat!

I'm going to put a 100-125 gallon live tank on her and launch out of Port Orford, Oregon and I'm wondering if anyone has rigged their C-Dory for that purpose. In case you don't know, the Port Orford launching system consists of a crane and a single hook. Most vessels here use a four point lift system configured in a variety of ways.

My concern is for the two aft lift points. I could drill holes in the transom :shock: easy enough but I would much rather replace the two aft cleats with u-bolts and backing, and lift from there. The front I'm pretty sure will be OK with u-bolts just inside the bow rail on either side with perhaps a stainless strap running down the side inside the berth and bolted through to another strap outside the hull. The top of the straps on the inside would be bent over 90 degrees to receive the u-bolts.

Again my concern is the two aft lift points. Is this enough support to lift the boat safely with three adults and a tank of water; about 2000 lbs all total in extra weight-worse case? :?
 
Telsta,

2000lbs extra weight lifted by 4 points= 500 lbs per lift point with most weight on the stern plus the boat weight. That seems like a lot to me.

I would not trust the stern cleats, as they pull up on a horizontal deck. I would use chain plates maybe 1/4 SS, 2in wide by 2 ft+ long with a shackle thru the chain plate, bolted with 3/8ths bolts on the outside of the transom. Look at sailboat rigging to get an idea. Consulting a naval architect for proper design would be a good idea.
 
First question: Why such large bait tanks? 100 to 125 gallons will add 800 to 900 lbs to the stern of your boat--and this will seriously affect handling. (on top of the engine, fuel and crew aft when fishing). Generally 20 gallon live wells--maybe 30 gallon in this size boat. 50 would be large.

Next: agree with Larry H's opinoion--do not use any of the fitting on the boat currently. by using the cleats, you are taking the load on the hull to deck joint at the transom (a bit weak), plus the thru deck, not wll backed cleates. His idea of chain plate type of lifting point is best--use 3/8" thick SS plate, drill 5 3/8" holes in it to bolt thru the transom and a 1/2 " hole at the top for a shackle to take the hoist. Forward, you can also use either a strap or similar chain plates into the hull. A traditional lifting eye, will go thru the deck, and then with a threaded rod to the keel. In a C Dory 22, yu could take the theaded rod and take it to a large plate, which was attatched to the inside of the hull, and thru bolted. But do not lift by deck cleates. If you want to use the bow eye, re-inforce it. Go with a 1/2" "U" bolt and beef up the area behind the bow, with a oak block glassed into the hull. You can then then take straps around the hull and to the bow eye.

Lifting a boat with a load in it in a dynamic situation, is much different than lifting by deck fittings of an un rigged boat at the factory.
 
Back
Top