osmotic blistering and bottom paint questions...

thataway":1ozuyy7p said:
There are a number of slightly different products which are "Meguiares marine wax," (Paste, Cleaner Wax, liquid "M5616 Marine/RV Pure Wax Carnauba Blend", the list goes on--and I have probably tried 90% of them. Meguiares wax product go on easily and are easily buffed out.

There is more work with the Collinite 885, but it lasts longer.
What machine and what product are you using to "buff" and "polish"?

You can get acceptable--and what looks good, with a minimal effort. The problem is it does not last. If you start out with the heavy duty compounding, then a lighter compounding, polish and then good quality wax, which you never allow to complete deteriorate , the entire system will keep the boat looking good, and protect the gel coat for years. If you go for a lessor job, then you end up repeating the lesser procedure many times over.

There are so many products--and systems--whcih probably can make one very confused. Generally sticking with one system or several of the well known marine products-such as by 3M is best.

For the best compounding one goes to the heavy duty machines--such as the Makita 9237CX3 7", The DEWALT 7-Inch/9-Inch (DWP849X), There is the use of either wool or foam pads--different pads for the various stages of compounding to get a good base for the wax system. The importance is a compounding machine which does not bog down as you vary the pressure. A cheap Harbor Freight or Northern Tools, is a fraction of the cost, but just does not keep the same RPM if you put pressure on it. A circular machine to start with and the final steps with a Random Orbital machine. I have found out that a good right angle battery operated drill with a 2 to 3" foam pad works for the smaller areas such as near decals, and decks, work well on the C Dorys.

Here is a video on using the rotary buffer This person has a series of videos on how to get a quality job on compounding, polishing and waxing. While in the mood for watching, check out his other videos on polishing waxing the second machine (random orbital) etc.

Also sort of the "rage" is ceramic coating. Si02 is a cheaper variant, and may not last as long. There are the cheap DIY materials, to the professional applied which can run into the hundreds of dollars for the top of the line--which lasts several years.

There are a number of systems by: 3M, McKee's 37/Nautical one, Chemical Guys, Shurhold, Presta,Smoovewax, Starbrite, (My experience is that the Meguiar's system is just not as durable, even though it may give a good look initially.) I would suggest using one system and staying with it. Wax the boat on a regular basis--if left in the water then perhaps 2 to 3 times a year. If kept under cover--then you may only have to do a good wax job every few years. The secret is to never allow the hull to begin chalking and keep wax on the entire hull.
Click to expand...

As I understand it, the Collinite 885 is a bit harder to use but will last longer, will it be ok to wax the boat hull with Colonite 885 over a different brand(Meguiar's paste wax in my case) that was apply on the previous year?
 
thataway":7k3qtil5 said:
There are a number of slightly different products which are "Meguiares marine wax," (Paste, Cleaner Wax, liquid "M5616 Marine/RV Pure Wax Carnauba Blend", the list goes on--and I have probably tried 90% of them. Meguiares wax product go on easily and are easily buffed out.

There is more work with the Collinite 885, but it lasts longer.
What machine and what product are you using to "buff" and "polish"?

You can get acceptable--and what looks good, with a minimal effort. The problem is it does not last. If you start out with the heavy duty compounding, then a lighter compounding, polish and then good quality wax, which you never allow to complete deteriorate , the entire system will keep the boat looking good, and protect the gel coat for years. If you go for a lessor job, then you end up repeating the lesser procedure many times over.

There are so many products--and systems--whcih probably can make one very confused. Generally sticking with one system or several of the well known marine products-such as by 3M is best.

For the best compounding one goes to the heavy duty machines--such as the Makita 9237CX3 7", The DEWALT 7-Inch/9-Inch (DWP849X), There is the use of either wool or foam pads--different pads for the various stages of compounding to get a good base for the wax system. The importance is a compounding machine which does not bog down as you vary the pressure. A cheap Harbor Freight or Northern Tools, is a fraction of the cost, but just does not keep the same RPM if you put pressure on it. A circular machine to start with and the final steps with a Random Orbital machine. I have found out that a good right angle battery operated drill with a 2 to 3" foam pad works for the smaller areas such as near decals, and decks, work well on the C Dorys.

Here is a video on using the rotary buffer This person has a series of videos on how to get a quality job on compounding, polishing and waxing. While in the mood for watching, check out his other videos on polishing waxing the second machine (random orbital) etc.

Also sort of the "rage" is ceramic coating. Si02 is a cheaper variant, and may not last as long. There are the cheap DIY materials, to the professional applied which can run into the hundreds of dollars for the top of the line--which lasts several years.

There are a number of systems by: 3M, McKee's 37/Nautical one, Chemical Guys, Shurhold, Presta,Smoovewax, Starbrite, (My experience is that the Meguiar's system is just not as durable, even though it may give a good look initially.) I would suggest using one system and staying with it. Wax the boat on a regular basis--if left in the water then perhaps 2 to 3 times a year. If kept under cover--then you may only have to do a good wax job every few years. The secret is to never allow the hull to begin chalking and keep wax on the entire hull.
Click to expand...

As I understand it, the Collinite 885 is a bit harder to use but will last longer, will it be ok to wax the boat hull with Colonite 885 over a different brand(Meguiar's paste wax in my case) that was apply on the previous year?
 
I found a little bit online on PropSpeed, but not much, and not very positive (and pricey :) Seems silicone based. I agree probably not for fiberglass. I ran across a product called McLube Antifoul Speed Polish, might be interesting to try a section with that. They don't provide ingredients, so perhaps it's silicone based as well Thataway, have you heard of McLube?
 
The positive material on Prop Speed is on the Trawler forums. It is being used successfully by many of these types of vessels.

The McLube products are a "PTFE suspension system with an entirely revolutionary citrus-based, long-lasting and high-gloss polish"

The problem is that all of these will be soluble in water and will only last between haul outs. Are you gong to put another coat of any of these products on at the time you haul out?

Any of the teflon (PTFE) products and silicone products can make painting more difficult (this refers to to many of the hull paints). You have to remove all of the silicone or Teflon material from the surface before painting.
 
thanks, just trying to find a product(s) that will last the longest until we decide whether to do bottom paint. I'm not sure wax will last very long, so we would have to reapply periodically anyway. I was just thinking that McLube over wax (which they say you can do) would last longer than just wax. And if we eventually bottom paint, then if the McLube comes off easily, and you have to dewax and perhaps sand before bottom painting, I'm not sure of the downside. Going to put on some Collinite tomorrow :)
 
C-Wolfe, we just applied the Collinite 885 to one side of the boat (applied Meguair's flagship marine wax to the other). It was the easiest wax to put on that I've ever done. It's not thin, but it goes on very silky and feels rather hefty. I like it a lot as far as application and what appears to be coverage, but of course can't speak yet to longevity.

Since I believe it has a lot of carnauba, I personally wouldn't hesitate to put it over any other wax or sealant (I'm not sure how putting a heavy polymer over a mainly carnauba wax would work, just my opinion). We researched waxes pretty heavily last year when we got into detailing our cars, and the one thing that stood out for me is that it may be a waste of time to put more than one coat on (the exception is ceramics) because most waxes/sealants have a solvent as a carrier, so when you apply a second layer, you are essentially removing the first layer. If you put ten coats on, you may end up with 1-1/2 coats :)
 
I need to add to my last post - I ASSUME Collinite has a lot of carnauba, because that's why I've read, but I don't know that. They don't list their ingredients, and their MSDS doesn't either. Meguair's flagship marine does list its ingredients. An interesting thing I learned today is that you should question the use of the term "polymer" in a wax/sealant. I always assumed it was a synthetic, plastic like material. The definition of polymer is "a substance that has a molecular structure consisting chiefly or entirely of a large number of similar units bonded together". So unless a product states what that "polymer" is, you have no idea what it is.
 
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