Offer accepted....any red flags.
- Thread starter Dene
- Start date
thataway":28i64k12 said:
That old style Cetol made it look like someone had spray painted your wood orange. The new stuff looks pretty good.
Interesting about the salt breaking down Cetol. It does have iron in it, so it makes sense. For boats that spend a lot of time baking in the sun at the dock, Cetol lasts longer between coats and is easier to recoat than varnish.
I have varnish on my 15' Boston Whaler, and would not go to any other finish. I love the way it looks, and the boat lives under a canvas cover under a house. I stripped it completely in about 2001, and touched it up a couple of years ago. It still looks good, but I'm not sure I'd say it is holding up against abrasion better than Cetol would. Our ramp has no dock, so people walk across the bow locker cover and front seat with sand on their feet regularly. I have all kinds of scratches from that right now, and they would not show as well on a Cetol finish, especially the non-gloss one.
Dene, oil is nice and the wood may need it only every few months up there. It would be more frequent down here. The problem with oil is that dirt loves it. Clean it, and you clean off some oil, so you have to oil sooner. The nice thing about oil is that it's more fun to work with than the others and is less of a problem if you get it where it should not be.
My experience exactly with teak oil. Easy to apply, but takes a lot of work to get the dirt out for the next coat. The "new" Cetol is definitely my teak covering of choice.
Worth while to watch a Devlin boat under construction. This is boat building at another level! Any surveyor in our area loves them... as I do.
Dusty
Worth while to watch a Devlin boat under construction. This is boat building at another level! Any surveyor in our area loves them... as I do.
Dusty
We owned a Force 50--which was 52 feet on deck--and had both large teak toe railins (about 4" x 2" all around the boat), plus knurled posts under the taff rail around the aft deck, lots of teak on the pilothouse and trunk cabin sides, plus the entire aft part of the aft cabin was tongue and groove teak--about 10 feet x 4 feet. We kept the varnish pristine--and re-varnished about every 6 weeks when in the tropics. The aft teak bulkhead was our experiment with all sorts of oils and compounds. We had used "Decks Ole"--a Flood product with many coats of both the oil and the sealer (clear harder coat) before an Atlantic crossing. After about 2 weeks, there was a line on the aft bulkhead where the salt water had washed out the teak oil.
I also agree with Dusty, the oil gets "dirty". I still use it below deck. I am sure that Cetol has a better product now than they had in 1996, which is the last time I used it.
I also agree with Dusty, the oil gets "dirty". I still use it below deck. I am sure that Cetol has a better product now than they had in 1996, which is the last time I used it.
Over ten years ago I finished the ceiling of a wrap around porch (car siding) with Sikkens Cetol. I used the Cetol due to it's purported ability to allow air and moisture to pass through the finish, thus avoiding or minimizing blistering. It was my understanding at the time that the prep work for refinishing Cetol would be require much less labor than the other finishes in that all one would need to do is to lightly or moderately sand the surface. The paperwork did caution that the greater the direct exposure to sun, the shorter time period between re-coatings.
I also refinished the wood on an old houseboat with the Cetol. While the porch ceiling has maintained it's appearance ( albeit a bit orange tinted), the houseboat has required multiple light sandings and recoats in the sun exposed areas, but none inside.
So, I am pretty happy with the old Cetol and it sounds like the new Cetol would be even better.
I have helped many friends re-finish the woodwork on their trawlers and sailcraft where we had to totally remove the blisters, peeling, old finish and damaged wood, so I am familiar with the normal amount of work involved in brightwork maintenance. I would choose the Cetol any day for most uses in that simply lightly sanding any damaged surface EARLY and recoating it avoids these total overhaul nightmares.
Of course, it has been years since I've used Cetol, so there are likely changes in it's performance, preferred sites, and precautionary warnings. Also, other more advanced coatings may now be available. As such, it is best to read the literature on the more modern products before committing to Cetol. Basically, I am just posting that the old Cetol worked pretty good for me.
John
I also refinished the wood on an old houseboat with the Cetol. While the porch ceiling has maintained it's appearance ( albeit a bit orange tinted), the houseboat has required multiple light sandings and recoats in the sun exposed areas, but none inside.
So, I am pretty happy with the old Cetol and it sounds like the new Cetol would be even better.
I have helped many friends re-finish the woodwork on their trawlers and sailcraft where we had to totally remove the blisters, peeling, old finish and damaged wood, so I am familiar with the normal amount of work involved in brightwork maintenance. I would choose the Cetol any day for most uses in that simply lightly sanding any damaged surface EARLY and recoating it avoids these total overhaul nightmares.
Of course, it has been years since I've used Cetol, so there are likely changes in it's performance, preferred sites, and precautionary warnings. Also, other more advanced coatings may now be available. As such, it is best to read the literature on the more modern products before committing to Cetol. Basically, I am just posting that the old Cetol worked pretty good for me.
John
starcrafttom":1mfqmp3t said:
I don't know how I missed this post. You are correct....it was a Jones Island. That's where we toured it. Do you remember a big old Carver rafted next to it?
The boat was next to ours at Friday Harbor. The owner is the father of our fleet manager. Like you, we were admiring it, but didn't know it was for sale. I watched it leave that morning, drooling. A few hours later, I learned it was for sale and my wife and I took off at high speed to rendevous with it at Jones Island.
I hope to bring it to a gathering. Perhaps we can time it with the one in Anacortes in May.
-Greg
TomRay":1ge0mg6f said:
Ok....then we'll keep it. Our long term goal is to completely own and use a trailerable trawler, for the Great Loop, and other places. I can't think of any reason why we will not be comfortable in this boat for weeks and months.
This Tuesday, we take possession. The following Thursday, we'll take it for it's maiden voyage from Olympia to Brownsville, with overnights at Jarrell Cove, Gig Harbor, and Tacoma. C-Brats are always welcomed to come aboard.
-Greg
drjohn71a":11tktgy0 said:
If I were going to go through all the sanding and old surface coating removal to get down to new wood on bright work, I'd never use a soft material like Cetol, varnish, teak or any other kind of oil finish.
Once you put in that kind of prep work, you might as well put on a finish that will last for years without maintainence.
After I sanded the hand rails on my '87 C-Dory and throughly cleaned up the Decraguard wood panels, I used Diamond Glaze polyurethane finish on both.
I put about 7-9 coats on the handles in 2000, and it still looks bright and glossy today, although I am starting to get some shrinkage down of the coating, and will have to re-coat it within the next five years or so while it can be just lightly sanded and re-coated.
The interior is also doing well, but of course gets a lot less light than the exterior.
I used gloss finish on the handles, and satin on the interior, with only two coatings inside and done with a cheesecloth "rag'.
The polyurethane finishes are light years ahead of the old varnish, oil, enamel, and other coatings, just like todays car paints are generations ahead of those of 30-50 years ago! They're much more flexible and impact resistant than epoxies, and have long flow times that allow them to flow out into flat, glossy even surfaces.
The flexibility allows them to stretch and compress, hence they don't impact chip and delaminate, nor peel, or bubble up.
The long flow out time means you can apply them with a brush, roller, or just about anything else, and you'll get a flat, smooth surface (glossy, too, if you choose that option). Repainted fiberglass hulls done with a roller look like professional spray jobs and new boats! (Don't try to spray poly urethanes without a spray booth and professional respirator equipment, the fumes can be deadly.)
One of my next in he future projects will be to re paint the dark blue stripe of my C-Dory hull with polyurethane paint, as once the scratch fill in and ding work is done, wasting time with a delicate gel-coat repair would not only be more difficult, but would yield far inferior results to a poly urethane paint job!
Any the new paint would be many times tougher than gel coat as well, giving years of tough service.
Joe. :teeth :thup
AstoriaDave
New member
Yabba dabba doo on the polyurethanes for bright work!
I've been using System Three's two-part water-reducible LPU for my latest project, both for bright work and for pigmented areas. I do not have the years of experience with it Joe has with the one he used. But, the stuff is tough and durable. Plus, easy to renew, places where I had a boo-boo. So far, has held up well to 6-8 months of part-time exposure; minor dings on the hull dent the wood but the finish does not seem to cut easily, and flexes with the dings. I'm gonna watch those dings and see if this holds true.
As a longtime organic chemist, I am very much in favor of low-VOC coatings, both for my continued health and lesser emissions to the atmosphere.
I've been using System Three's two-part water-reducible LPU for my latest project, both for bright work and for pigmented areas. I do not have the years of experience with it Joe has with the one he used. But, the stuff is tough and durable. Plus, easy to renew, places where I had a boo-boo. So far, has held up well to 6-8 months of part-time exposure; minor dings on the hull dent the wood but the finish does not seem to cut easily, and flexes with the dings. I'm gonna watch those dings and see if this holds true.
As a longtime organic chemist, I am very much in favor of low-VOC coatings, both for my continued health and lesser emissions to the atmosphere.
We have quite a bit of experience with teak bright work on boats. We just sold our 32' Sundowner Tug ( http://www.sundownertug.blogspot.com ) which had loads of teak.
When we purchased the boat the teak was in good shape, but the previous owner was using teak oil to keep up. Well, because we live 3 hours from the boat it would be too much to keep it up. So, we sanded all the teak down to bare wood and brought it back up with Bristol Finish.
Once we did that, it only took a light sanding and a new coat of Bristol Finish (maybe once a year) and everything looked brand new. The Bristol Finish product brings out the best in the wood -- looked great when done.
Now we own a CD22 and I can promise you that our CD22 will never see a piece of wood attached to the outside of the boat -- been there done that.
But if you have the great looking teak -- use Bristol Finish.
When we purchased the boat the teak was in good shape, but the previous owner was using teak oil to keep up. Well, because we live 3 hours from the boat it would be too much to keep it up. So, we sanded all the teak down to bare wood and brought it back up with Bristol Finish.
Once we did that, it only took a light sanding and a new coat of Bristol Finish (maybe once a year) and everything looked brand new. The Bristol Finish product brings out the best in the wood -- looked great when done.
Now we own a CD22 and I can promise you that our CD22 will never see a piece of wood attached to the outside of the boat -- been there done that.
But if you have the great looking teak -- use Bristol Finish.
The only pieces of wood on my boat's exterior are the straight grained cedar stand-offs I installed between my fishing rod holders and the cabin wall to keep the reel handles from banging into the cabin and dinging them up or scratching the boat. In keeping with the colors, I painted them glossy black with 2 coats of an oil based enamel "Anti Rust" by Valspar. They look as shiny black now four years later as when I did it. (Doesn't exactly let the beauty of the wood show through however!). Excellent product.
On the interior I have a glove-box door I made from highly figured cedar. The clear satin polyurethane looks great on it, and if I ever add any more wood to it, I'll finish it in the same, easy to clean stuff.
The boat? well beyond a once a year go-over with a high pressure washer..... you just hit it with a high speed buffer about once every four years and it is good to go and looks like a mirror. To clean out the fish scent grimey build up in the bait trays I just spray them with WD-40 once a year, let it soak in a few minutes and scour with steel wool.
Yes, aluminum makes for the best of low maintainence hulls. [I know, insert beer can jokes here]. And that is where I'm at.... more time fishing, less time maintaining. On the other side of the coin.... it is nearly a year since I've had a repair bill on the big block Ford 460 V-8! This is a milestone for me and yes, I envy the low maintainence your fuel efficient and reliable four stroke outboards provide most of you.
Back to wood. I grew up refinishing wood and am sitting at a desk my long gone mother and I refinished together in the '70s. She taught me well and it still looks great, but please, use a coaster on this roll top tung oil finished classic. I bought a Short Magazine Lee Enfield rifle from Big 5 for $85. I stripped the cosmoline and dirt off to the bright 1917 era walnut stock. 17 hand rubbed coats of boiled linseed oil later it looks, smells and feels impossibly beautiful. It is easy to apply, smells nice and is very weather resistant. Any use on boats?
But as someone else said earlier in the thread, and I paraphrase, "everyone likes a wood boat if someone else owns it". That's me, and I'm ecstatic Greg just bought one. I look forward to rubbing my hands on it and I'll even help him apply some of that teak oil as needed.... but no, I don't have the time to own one myself. I've got a gas-suckin' jet boat to feed. C.W.
On the interior I have a glove-box door I made from highly figured cedar. The clear satin polyurethane looks great on it, and if I ever add any more wood to it, I'll finish it in the same, easy to clean stuff.
The boat? well beyond a once a year go-over with a high pressure washer..... you just hit it with a high speed buffer about once every four years and it is good to go and looks like a mirror. To clean out the fish scent grimey build up in the bait trays I just spray them with WD-40 once a year, let it soak in a few minutes and scour with steel wool.
Yes, aluminum makes for the best of low maintainence hulls. [I know, insert beer can jokes here]. And that is where I'm at.... more time fishing, less time maintaining. On the other side of the coin.... it is nearly a year since I've had a repair bill on the big block Ford 460 V-8! This is a milestone for me and yes, I envy the low maintainence your fuel efficient and reliable four stroke outboards provide most of you.
Back to wood. I grew up refinishing wood and am sitting at a desk my long gone mother and I refinished together in the '70s. She taught me well and it still looks great, but please, use a coaster on this roll top tung oil finished classic. I bought a Short Magazine Lee Enfield rifle from Big 5 for $85. I stripped the cosmoline and dirt off to the bright 1917 era walnut stock. 17 hand rubbed coats of boiled linseed oil later it looks, smells and feels impossibly beautiful. It is easy to apply, smells nice and is very weather resistant. Any use on boats?
But as someone else said earlier in the thread, and I paraphrase, "everyone likes a wood boat if someone else owns it". That's me, and I'm ecstatic Greg just bought one. I look forward to rubbing my hands on it and I'll even help him apply some of that teak oil as needed.... but no, I don't have the time to own one myself. I've got a gas-suckin' jet boat to feed. C.W.
Thanks for posting this picture and kind words, Chris. I've got to learn how to do this. I look forward to you seeing and piloting it firsthand.
Anyway, the trip was wonderful and adventurous. There is quite a current near this bridge.
Refreshing to drive a boat 100 miles and have everything still working. I never experienced this with the Carver.
Next up for improvements are soundproofing and a autopilot. We had thought about a sternthruster but after multiple dockings, determined it isn't necessary. Manuevering an inboard is a learning curve, same as twins or sterndrives.
-Greg
Anyway, the trip was wonderful and adventurous. There is quite a current near this bridge.
Refreshing to drive a boat 100 miles and have everything still working. I never experienced this with the Carver.
Next up for improvements are soundproofing and a autopilot. We had thought about a sternthruster but after multiple dockings, determined it isn't necessary. Manuevering an inboard is a learning curve, same as twins or sterndrives.
-Greg
starcrafttom
Active member
Greg , no we did not see your carver tied to the devlin that day. We were in and out from the dock just for a doggy break. I hope you do bring it around. I would really like to take a closer look at her.
