New owner, older CD 22

Deeplake

New member
New owner, older boat. I’ve been lurking here for a few months, joined recently, and thanks to all the knowledge of this groups members, we just purchased a 1989 CD 22. Powered by a 2002 Yamaha 80 4 stroke with 700 hrs, 15 hp Johnson 2 stroke kicker, old electronics, tandem axel EZ Loader, and appears to be fresh water based. Original red paint on the hull and bottom! Not bottom paint! I’ll be asking lots of questions on how to “restore” this boat and make it reliable. 1st step is to remove all the superfluous wiring and lights, stereo, and electronics, then tackle the battery issues. And...give it a thorough cleaning side and out. We live on Lake Pend Oreille, near Sandpoint, ID and can’t wait to explore the Great Lakes in Norther Idaho.
 
Welcome aboard Deeplake!

It sounds like you got a nice boat and you're going to love it.

Mine is also an '89 (the best year, haha) and was a fresh water boat too. The previous owner was the second owner and they had it for 30 years prior to us getting it.

We're hoping to visit some friends in Coeur d’Alene next summer so, maybe we'll see you on the water there.
 
You already know this without a doubt, but you live in perhaps the nicest area in the entire US: 4 mild seasons, no hurricanes, major earthquakes are rare, good hunting and fishing, affordable cost of living, clean air, beautiful forests, good weather (mostly), and very little traffic. That's it! I convinced myself to move back to the inland northwest....lol....Best wishes with the new boat.
 
Welcome aboard. Most likely this is original gel coat. It will still buff out. Go slow and easy--if there are questions--plenty of answers. You provide the muscle and dollars. :D
 
Deeplake":23md3d9d said:
New owner, older boat. I’ve been lurking here for a few months, joined recently, and thanks to all the knowledge of this groups members, we just purchased a 1989 CD 22. Powered by a 2002 Yamaha 80 4 stroke with 700 hrs, 15 hp Johnson 2 stroke kicker, old electronics, tandem axel EZ Loader, and appears to be fresh water based. Original red paint on the hull and bottom! Not bottom paint! I’ll be asking lots of questions on how to “restore” this boat and make it reliable. 1st step is to remove all the superfluous wiring and lights, stereo, and electronics, then tackle the battery issues. And...give it a thorough cleaning side and out. We live on Lake Pend Oreille, near Sandpoint, ID and can’t wait to explore the Great Lakes in Norther Idaho.

That's a perfect boat for Priest & pend. my old stomping grounds
still have 4 lots on the E. side @ Granite Ck. Have fun on your projects!!
 
Deeplake, Welcome and congrats on the new to you C-Dory. AND, interesting username. I used to sail on Pende, (Lots of nights on that lake,) and Priest is where I saw my first ever C-Dory. I sailed back and forth along that guys dock about 20 times, until he finally came out and I could ask him what kind of boat that was. That was some years ago, but always have good memories of both of those lakes.

Enjoy and stay safe.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

9_Sept_Seq_2019_Cal.thumb.jpg
 
Deeplake":25k08lt8 said:
At some locations, Lake Pend Oreille is over 1100 feet deep, hence “Deeplake” seemed an appropriate user name.

Depending on what BPA allows :wink: 1200' between Bayview & Lakeview. Naval submarine training center for WW2 at Farragut. Still have the Navy Acoustical lab at Bayview? It sure screws up your sonar when the U.S.N. is testing :lol: :thup

Caught many a Kam & Laker in that lake.
 
Yes, it’s still there and very busy. It’s cool to see 100’ scale models of submarines tied up to the dock. Lots of good Kokanee fishing at that end of the lake, but being long and narrow running north south, it can blow up pretty quickly and get nasty.
 
Desert Dory, looked at you albums and am going to be doing similar things. Need to clean up the spaghetti wiring, add a roof rack and re wire the battery situation. I have a simple “Main”, “Accessory”, “off” switch Located on the dashboard where you put your voltage plug. Why did you decide to mount the roof rack to the hand rails vs bolting through the roof on the vertical section just below the hand rail? Also, have you determined if the Ice Box keeps anything cold? Don’t really want to mess with it, but that space could be better utilized if the box doesn’t function. Thanks Deeplake.
 
Deeplake":3qsrxxeg said:
Desert Dory, looked at you albums and am going to be doing similar things. Need to clean up the spaghetti wiring, add a roof rack and re wire the battery situation. I have a simple “Main”, “Accessory”, “off” switch Located on the dashboard where you put your voltage plug. Why did you decide to mount the roof rack to the hand rails vs bolting through the roof on the vertical section just below the hand rail? Also, have you determined if the Ice Box keeps anything cold? Don’t really want to mess with it, but that space could be better utilized if the box doesn’t function. Thanks Deeplake.

Hi Deeplake,

"Need to clean up the spaghetti wiring" - Yeah, my wiring wasn't super bad but rerouting and getting rid of some of the unused wires did make a difference. One day I'll get in there and label everything too. Not a real priority at the moment.

"add a roof rack" "Why did you decide to mount the roof rack to the hand rails vs bolting through the roof on the vertical section just below the hand rail?" - I ended up mounting my rack to the handrails for a couple of reasons, the biggest being there just wasn't enough space between the teak handrail and the roof top (vertical part) to get the Yakima gutter towers to mount without rubbing up against the teak. Also, to get the racks on and off I would have had to slide them into the mounts, which wasn't ideal and I just didn't like the way it was working out. The other reason was drilling holes in the roof. I'm not a big fan of drilling holes anywhere but, with the way the rack would have fit with that mounting method, it was and easy decision to just mount to the handrails vs drilling into the roof. I hope that makes sense.

"re wire the battery situation" - My boat came with a single battery so I ended up adding a house battery using a Blue Sea Add A Battery kit. I really don't have much of a load on my house battery as the only thing running off of it, when the boat is not running, are the lights and USB ports to keep the phones and Bluetooth speaker charged . I have changed all my lights to LED's so this has worked out quite well. We'll eventually add a small freezer and solar charging.

"Also, have you determined if the Ice Box keeps anything cold?" - My boat didn't come with the icebox or a fridge so I can't really comment on that one. We keep a 52 quart rotomold cooler in the cockpit, which seems to work well, and also helps with seating. This past weekend we were out for 3 days (100 degrees each day) and had plenty of ice left when we got home. I do keep a wet towel over the cooler, which REALLY helps keep it cooler (no pun intended... Haha).

I hope that helps a bit.
 
Desert Dory, thanks much, your roof rack scenario makes total sense now. I’m sure I’ll be back with many more questions in the future. Curt
 
When we purchased our 1984 we just tore out all of the wiring and redid it all. That was we had the correct wire size, a central fuse block and we knew the system. A big job for 2-3 days but over 10+ years it has been worth it. My only regret is that I didn't label every wire at the time.
 
Same here, two new Simrad MFDs, 3G radar and Simrad VHF with AIS. Also integration with Mercury OB and Simrad. It has been great, especially fuel management module that shows MPG, fuel left and range.
 
When I bought the system Navionics and Garmin were different companies but now Garmin has purchased Navionics(Simrad, Lowrance, B&G).
My reason was the negative experiences that I had over the last decade + with Garmin hardware and software for cycling and hiking. Poor software support and design and a churning of models to force you into hardware upgrades, and expensive prices for chart upgrades.
I have been very happy with the ability to add SIMRAD systems to the NMEA 2000 backbone and integration with my Mercury OB system. That said, now that the companies are integrated and I think that the NMEA 2000 system would be okay with integrating new systems of either brand.
But.. if you have a choice pick either brand and stick with it , there are both probably fine. Garmin seems to be more common.
 
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