New C Brat, looking for the " perfect" CD25!!!!!!

200XH 25" intergrated power steering $23,305 Not cheap--and I don't think that includes all of the controls, rigging etc….

I am not a "fly by wire" man--I have seen several accidents because of failure…But it is the future.

The water tank was forward in the early boats where the holding tank was aft. When the boats first came out with the included 9 gallon holding tank in the base of the head, then the water tanks went aft. I believe that later they were put back forward, to give better handling...
 
That's a pretty pricey repower!
As Thataway said, fly by wire is in fact the way of the future. I'm an airline pilot, so I'm very familiar with the systems and their operational reliability, at least in the aviation industry.

I doubt this technology will trickle down to the 90 hp any time soon.

Sounds like a 2006 or newer CD25, single 175-200 outboard, aluminum trailer.
 
My 2003 CD25 has the water tank forward, in front of the v-berth foot well area. I cut out a large door to view the tank for filling and another port opening on the above left of the tank to check the water inlet and vent fittings (see my album for pics). I don't know when they moved the tank aft (and back I guess), but I'd just move it forward to where mine is if I bought a CD25 with it aft. It really helps with weight and balance. I requested the holding tank not be installed when they built the boat, only the area for it is back there at the stern, I leave it empty.

My boat is very well balanced without using very much Permatrim or trim tabs, probably why I get pretty good mileage. My ice chest (usually completely full) goes up front in the v-berth foot-well area while traveling.
 
Our boat is an '07. Water tank in the stern and one of the last ones w/ the wood Decraguard interior.

I'd agree with Steve's input; if it was in the berth it would help w/ balance. The stern of our boat isheavy; 150 main, 9.9 kicker, water tank, fuel tank, cooler...we throw one hell of a wake as a result.

One of my long term projects is to put another tank/pump etc under the berth, similar to what Roger did on his former Tomcat. But it's such a big job, I'm waiting till I am permanently "unemployed" to do it. :wink:[/i]
 
My biggest complaint is the design of the bilge and hatches. Chronically wet, which is probably the cause of the one fuel tank leak I know occurred. It allows water to slosh under/around the fuel tank which is just bare stainless w/ no barrier coating. The wet has also caused us to burn thru at least 2 water pumps. I now moved the water pump up to the battery shelf in hopes of keeping it dryer and mounted it horizontally.

One other mistake that needs a remedy is the hole thru the front bow deck for the windlass. That is cored and was not properly sealed. It's on the list of "to do" this season.

There are issues w/ screwing items into the core itself, but I have fixed most of those myself w/ epoxy resin, as Dr Bob recommends. Beyond that, they are quality, sound, solid boats. We have not had any major issues.
 
It allows water to slosh under/around the fuel tank which is just bare stainless w/ no barrier coating.
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I wish it were bare stainless--it is aluminum. SS is rarely used in water tanks, because of the issues, with welding/then silver soldering soldering. It has been done. Also Monel metal, even better than SS, has been used, but it is very expensive.

If I were putting in a new fuel tank, I would seal off the bilges, Use one of the real water proof hatches, and then coat the aluminum fuel tank with coal tar epoxy.
 
So the way I read this is, rain water is getting through the deck hatch in the cockpit?
The fuel tank is located under the floor of the cockpit?

I had a tank leak in my Albin 25, I had it pulled, steamed, repaired and epoxy coated after pressure testing. That tank was very easy to remove, just lift floorboards in cockpit. How difficult is it to access the tank in the CD 25?
 
How difficult is it to access the tank in the CD 25?
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Very difficult. The fuel tank on my 2005 CD25 had to be replaced because of leaking holes due to corrosion (she was the Anna Leigh back then).

I believe the underlying issue was fixed in subsequent model years (the stringers the tank sat on were not high enough). To replace the tank the entire cockpit floor had to be ripped out. And since tank is installed at the factory before the deck and the hull are attached, there was not enough room to retrofit the same 100 gallon tank (mine is now about 90 gallons). Special arrangements had to be made for the fuel plumbing too.
 
So the way I read this is, rain water is getting through the deck hatch in the cockpit?
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Yes. Rainwater, wash-down water, splashes, waves....the "hatches" are not sealed. When we park our boat, we cover it w/ a Sunbrella cover. I jack the front up and open the hatches. I then suck all the water out as is possible using the bilge pump and then a water toy I bought from a "dollar store" (Capt Jim's idea). Just an annoyance, really but as a result the bilge is notoriously "damp".

The larger issue it the possible corrosion issues as noted above on the ALUMINUM fuel tank, as the "bilge" is open to the area storing the fuel tank, which is under a large hatch which is in essence, the cockpit sole. That part is screwed down and sealed off. It's the poorly designed "hatches" that are the issue.
 
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