New Boat Lots of Small Problems 2007/8 C-Dory 22 Cruiser

H

harm

New member
Well, as time goes on I keep finding more problems although small, but I'm very suprised with a new boat. Any one having bilge problems 1) check valve in backwards, the back of the boat filled with water. Fixed valve, but slow flow out for first 2-4 mins is this normal or should I just take out the check valve?

Bennett Trim Tabs indicators still will not cal. ?Sensor on ram.

Sink leaks at drain (gasket in wrong place and someone tried to silicone it) Was this factory or dealer.

Not too impressed. I'm supposed to take it up to Desolation Sound this week, scared about the boat.

Pls help
 
None of your issues seem life-threatening, or so serious I would let them delay a trip. It sounds like the trim tabs work, just the indicator is messed up? The indicator is not really essential. My indicators on the CD25 are badly positioned, so that I really can't even read them from the helm seat. I did not have indicators for the tabs on our prior CD22. Trimming the boat with the tabs is really a matter of feeling it level side to side and getting the best attitude for the bow. The gasket under the sink? That should be pretty easy to fix. Not sure what you are describing with the bilge pump, but couldn't that be remedied by a trip to West Marine and getting a new one if the dealer won't replace it?

I am not condoning the QC issues - there are lots of examples described in various threads on this site far more serious than what you are describing - but overall you are still going to find the C-Dory to be a joy out on the water, and the overall quality still very high - which is why resale values stay up compared to mass-produced boats. Get some experience out on the water before you form any final judgment on this boat!

 
Any one having bilge problems 1) check valve in backwards, the back of the boat filled with water. Fixed valve, but slow flow out for first 2-4 mins is this normal or should I just take out the check valve?
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Harm,
If you haven't done so yet, take the bilge pump out from its base and check the screens for debris. Mine were clogged pretty good with junk from the manufacturing process. Once clean they worked fine. I had numerous problems like you on my 25. It is a Royal PITA. Now that I have most of them fixed I'm quite happy with the boat. If your dealer is Galleon Marine, check all there work. They are so overbooked and understaffed that its no wonder things are done hap hazardly.
Good Luck and we'll see you around somewhere in the Vancouver area sometime.
Ron
 
check valve in backwards, the back of the boat filled with water.
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Harm,

Are you saying that when you put the boat in the water, it just started filling up with water through your bilge pump?

If so, I understand your concern!
 
I doubt that it would start filling with water, the bilge outlet should be above the waterline of the boat, definitly not below it. Most Likely it is just water in the line coming back out. I would call bennett and See if they can help, and try fixing the sink myself too, sometimes it's faster and easier to take care of the small stuff yourself. I had some issues with my boat too, all minor, but I can understand your frustration. I had another boat I bought brand new and that one had some things too. After talking to guys from my fishing club, it seems most new boats ALL have some minor things wrong when delivered. It is not just CDory. But it is a PITA. Good luck.

Sark
 
fix the small stuff yourself , faster then going back to dealer, then hit the dealer up for some freebes for doing their job for them. Try to hit them up while they are saleing a boat to some one else. They will make it worth your time to get rid of you.
 
It sounds as if the transom plug has a check valve in it?? If so, get rid of it. I have never trusted these, with very good reason. If any water collects in the cockpit, most will be bailed out with the bilge pump--if there is not a manual switch, there needs to be one. The float switch will let the water be too high. Not too sure what the layout in the latest 22's with a hull liner is, but the older boats had a small sump just in front of the drain plug.

Definately take the sink drain apart and fix it yourself. You should be able to find a gasket at the hardware store, or make a gasket out of cork rubber or rubber gasket material. The use of silicone is not acceptable to "repair" an improper gasket seal.

The trim tab indicator--you paid for it, it should work--again an agrivation, but not essential. I have only had the sensors in one boat--I have owned a number of boats with tabs, and didn't have the tabs.

Be sure that both tanks work properly, Be sure that the stove and water pump work correctly. Take a hose and be sure that there are no leaks. Then fill the boat with fuel and your gear and take off. I would want to run the boat for a day or two before heading for Desloation sound--but there are plenty of places to hide if bad weather. I probably would trailer the boat as far as I could--cheaper to trailer than run on the water, and you can trailer even if the wind is blowing hard. The Georgia Straits can get pretty rough for a "sea trial" with a new boat.

Other wise, go take your vacation, take pictures and share them with us!

Most of us have gone thru a number of Quality control issues. Too bad that the Quality Control has not improved more. It is nothing new, but we have been assured that it was in "hand". Send a copy of your post to Rich Reynolds and ask him to review the thread, and who did the final inspection on your boat?

Enjoy the boat--I agree that all in all they are great boats.
 
Do the new 2007 22's have scuppers (sp??) in them? Or can they be added? Almost sounds like that is what he is talking about in regard the bilge problem.
I would agree with the above posts. My boat is an oldy but a goody, you will like this boat on the water.
Jimbo
 
Harm:
Copied part of this from the other thread. The new CD22's don't have scuppers the deck is below the water line. The factory puts a check valve in the bilge discharge line. If you take out the check valve, the factory told me that the pump will short cycle from the water running back down the pipe. There will be a few problems with any boat, The CD22 is boat number 11 all of mine have had some leaks or other problems. Some of them the dealer couldn't fix and I got tried of taking it in to them, so I fixed them myself. My CD22 is in Utah and the dealer is in Seattle so most of the Warranty items I will be doing myself. Unless it is something major, then I will have to make a trip. When I calibrated my trim indicators it did take me a few trys to figure out what sequence that I needed hit the buttons to get it to save the calibration. I can find my book if you need me to and try it on mine again.
 
Thanks for all your help. I've been fixing most of the problems my self right now as it is easier than going back to the dealer. I live in Vancouver B.C and the dealer is in Port Alberni B.C. To take the ferry it would be $400.

But just for laughs I just found out the cooler rack on the transome doesn't fit either, the mount are in the wrong spot I'll take a picture and post. I've zip tide one side for now since I need the cooler and space for my trip to Desolation Sound tomorrow. Wish me luck or hope some will tow me in. (hope not)

I was hoping to move up to a Skagit Orca in a few years but the C-Dory group scares me now. I'm not saying I don't like the boat but what a pain in the ***** .

Thanks Everyone
Harm
 
harm":3w290fsa said:
.....

I was hoping to move up to a Skagit Orca in a few years but the C-Dory group scares me now. I'm not saying I don't like the boat but what a pain in the ***** .

Thanks Everyone
Harm
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I'm not a C-Dory owner yet. I researched C-Dory, loved it, learned about the current QC problems and poor sealing of exterior fittings, then dismissed C-Dory. However I have come to learn from my research that it's not possible, at any price, with any brand, to get a boat with proper QC or proper sealing of exterior fittings. So it seems the real point in research is to determine which boat offers the lesser of the evils so to speak. I was very interested in Skagit Orca with their lifetime warranty but I can't find a single owner anywhere in the world. I'm sure there are, but I have not been able to find any online resources with people that have ever owned an Orca. Online resources such as this site (and there are others for other brands) are an important part of the buying decision.

The next time I buy a boat (which will be a C-Dory unless I learn something new in the next few months) I will arrive with team of inspectors and take at least 2 hours to check every single thing I can think of with the help of this site. I will be on board with a bucket of water to test the scuppers, bilge pump, shower, and sink drain...I will have a buddy catch the anchor as I test the windlass....I will run the engines on the muffs....I will test the trim tabs and indicators...I will splash water over the complete exterior with a buddy inside to see if anything is leaking (maybe the dealership will let me borrow a hose)...I will run the shower and every electrical system....I will turn the steering wheel to check for hydraulic leaks or binding...I will check all gauges...etc. I think

I will return to post the question before I take delivery to gather all the collective wisdom I can!
 
However I have come to learn from my research that it's not possible, at any price, with any brand, to get a boat with proper QC or proper sealing of exterior fittings.
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That is the sad fact of the matter. I have owned many many boats and am not brand loyal by any means. If the boat fits my mission, I'll buy it. The C-Dory happened to fit it perfectly. What I learned from all previous boats was to tow this one home, go over everything thoroughly and do a lot of preventative fixes (whether it needed them or not) from info gleaned here. The result: trouble free operation and total reliability and a very happy owner. This is not to say light bulbs don't go out, or switches fail, or I need to change hoses, etc., but all that is stuff C-Dory ordered from some other mfg and it's just part of **** happens and we have to deal with it all in turn and in time as part of maintaining the boat (or anything else). Even the Navy is not immune: they've learned to have extensive sea trials and rarely (I just put rarely because I've never known it to happen) is a ship accepted right out of the yards. They all have to have a shakedown.
 
I don't know if this could be put to use in a CD QC session, but a local RV dealer offers a leak detection system which involves pressurizing the interior and then spraying the outside of the RV with soapy water to see where the bubbles are coming out. Sounds interesting, dunno how well it actually works.

Warren
 
I'm sure Dusty will jump in to correct me, but as I recall, he said he really enjoyed his Skagit Orca and allowed how as it could pass anything on the water except a fuel dock!
 
One of my friends who has a Pearson 27 sailboat just pressurized the interior of his boat with a shop vac and found the leaks which had plagued the boat. However, you have to seal all fittings, doors etc, with duct tape to "pressurize it".

I don't like check valves in low pressure applications. They almost all fail at one time or another. Hard to understand how a failed check valve in the bilge pump discharge line will cause flooding of the bilge. If the pump discharge is under water, then it needs to be moved. There are hundreds of CD 22's without check valves in the bilge pump discharge line. What have they done to make this necessary at this point in time?
 
Bob,

Harm never did answer my question, but I'm going to assume that the water was probably the result of other things, like washing the boat, wave splash over, etc. and not from the bilge pump system itself allowing water into the bilge. (Harm, please correct me if I guessed wrong).

I would reckon that a lot of our boats have some kind of check valve in the bilge pump outlet hose to keep water that was pumped out of the bilge but not quite out of the boat from flowing back down the hose and cycling the pump ad infinitum. Since the bilge pump is in the lowest part of the boat (I would hope) and the outlet has to be above water level, there will always be a little water in the hose that didn't quite have enough umph to exit the boat. Gravity would keep pulling the water back down into the bilge area activating the pump without a check valve in the hose to keep it suspended and away from the pump activation mechanism.

One way around this, when I think about it, is having a dip in the outlet hose, like a p-trap, that would allow water that didn't make it overboard to rest in a low spot of the hose and away from the pump.
 
I think it is just the combination of the sump area and the type of pump that they used. It doesn't have a float. It just senses the water. When the pump activates the major portion of the water is pump overboard and discharge above the waterline. But the water that is left in the pipe between the pump and the loop has enough volume that if there wasn't a check valve there it would run back down the pipe and fill the sump back up and start the pump again. at this point there isn't enough water to even discharge out of the boat. I would guess that the check valve is going to have to have some maintenance done on it every now and then. I haven't had it apart yet. But it is probably a little rubber flapper. Like the ones in my scuba gear.
 
For my education what brand and model is this bilge pump which is water sensing, and what check valve is used.

I have always prefered manual switches I can check easily by pulling it up and down, and an un obstructed hose--owned a lot of bilge pumps, but never one with a check valve. I agree that a check valve would slow the discharge significantly, and bilge pumps are notoriously head sensative.
 
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