Need Help with New Side Guide Posts!

P

Pat Anderson

New member
One side bunk guide on fell off our King Saltwater trailer, all the bolts were rusted, and the whole deal had never been properly set up since it was new, so out came the angle grinder and they are gone, gone, gone!

We bought side post guide ons, don't know if that was wise or not, but for sure they are big and heavy enough. Here is what they look like:

Post_Guide_Ons.jpg

So today I am installing them. Theoretically they should go behind the fenders, that is how the pix show them. But the widest spot is forward, just about under the cleat. If I install them behind the fenders, there will be too much play at the stern for the posts to really do any good centering the boat.

So I am thinking of installing them in front of the fenders by the cleats and adjusting so there is maybe half an inch on each side between the rub rail and the post.

Is this a stupid idea?
 
There are no stupid ideas, just creativity and that is what makes the world a great place. " Still C-razy's" trailer has the guide posts mounted such that they just touch at the widest part of the hull. However, there are small side mounted bunks at the widest part of the hull down low just above and inside a bit from the tandem trailer wheel well. That way the hull is "pinched" at two points and will stay pretty well centered on the trailer. I say pretty well, because the boat will end up within two inches of the center line, which doesn't seem to affect trailering at all. With even tight fitting vertical tubes, there is lots of opportunity for the bottom of the hull to be significantly to the right or left of the trailer center line due to lateral tilt of the boat due to waves etc. as you are pulling it out.
 
Any guide posts aft on a C Dory 22 will have some latitude as the boat comes on the trailer. They are for centering the boat visually, and not really designed for taking the weight of the boat. The side bunks are designed for that--and they also have a bit of latitude, aft. My current trailer, has about 6 foot long side bunks--going up to the middle of the axle.

I would put the guide posts aft, and use them as designed.
 
We did decide to put them aft - JUST completed the installation. Pictures in a few! They are BIG honkers, and we have measured 8' 6" from inside to inside of the posts. There is about two and a half inches from the inside of each post to the outside of the gunwale, and it visually appears that it will clear at the wide spot. The test will be next weekend, and I will have the wrenches to make any required final adjustment.
 
Patty found them online at Ve-ve Inc. Our number is T-967. We ordered something a lot smaller and cheaper. The company is small and Patty got a phone call from the owner asking about our boat. He told us what we ordered would not be strong enough and together (on the phone with both parties looking at the website) we came up with the T-967.
 
If you keep them at the rear I would leave space in between the boat and the guides so you can come on and off the trailer with you boat fenders deployed. Maybe you need another set of guides midship to get and keep you centered. Thats the trouble with flat bottomed boats. :D
D.D.
 
Here is a pic:

Post_Guide_On_2_25_12.sized.jpg

It really does look like these bad boys are just what the doctor ordered. There will be some final adjustment no doubt, but they are set up to just clear the widest part of the boat.
 
The nice thing about those:

-they give you a good sight line-up if you power onto the trailer
-they also provide a nice place to move/mount your tail lights OUT of the water, should you think it a good idea (no water intrusion problems). Mounting them there is pretty much the norm in Hawai'i.
 
Pat they look very similar to the "goalposts" we've had since the boat was new. I like being able to walk the boat between them. We never power the boat all the way up, we just walk it from the point we are moored to up to where I can easily connect the strap to pull it up on the trailer. You have to be careful of the fenders as they will catch. We just flip them up over the post on the way. We both walk the boat up until the bow is pretty well on the bunks. Patti then holds the boat centered while I go connect the strap, tighten it, and drive it out of the water. We haven't figured out a really good way to make sure the boat is centered when coming out of the water. When we have the bow in its roller and the strap tightened, the stern is still floating free. Generally Patti just controls the stern by pushing/pulling as I drive the boat out. I'm sure there is a better way and look forward to learning about it.
 
Barry, that is the problem we all have with these boats...If we figure out the magic solution, we will be sure to let everyone know. For now, however, these posts are going to be be way better than the side bunks that were set up to be maybe 8" out on either side!

colobear":hspl4wjd said:
Pat they look very similar to the "goalposts" we've had since the boat was new. I like being able to walk the boat between them. We never power the boat all the way up, we just walk it from the point we are moored to up to where I can easily connect the strap to pull it up on the trailer. You have to be careful of the fenders as they will catch. We just flip them up over the post on the way. We both walk the boat up until the bow is pretty well on the bunks. Patti then holds the boat centered while I go connect the strap, tighten it, and drive it out of the water. We haven't figured out a really good way to make sure the boat is centered when coming out of the water. When we have the bow in its roller and the strap tightened, the stern is still floating free. Generally Patti just controls the stern by pushing/pulling as I drive the boat out. I'm sure there is a better way and look forward to learning about it.
Click to expand...
 
colobear":3t7q25vp said:
I'm sure there is a better way and look forward to learning about it.
Click to expand...

Most likely not the most expeditious way for you, but for me I am able to put my back up against the rear side of the boat and in a lift/rock/pushing motion move the stern of the boat over into a center position. Most onlookers think I'm crazy, but when they see the technique and the end results they seem a bit impressed. :roll: (Fred on Anita Marie taught me that maneuver years ago).

(I have never tried it on a 25' C-Dory....only on a 16' and 22'.... :lol: )

(Like you Barry, I walk the boat onto the trailer and don't power it on.)
 
When my bunks on my King trailer fell off I just removed the bunk boards and left the vertical parts. I then put pvc pipe over the ends. They are slightly angled out but work okay. I have found that I can tie a fender from both ends and positioned between the side post and boat (horizontal fender) and then use a bungee around the post to pull the boat towards the post with the fender between. When I pull out the stern settles onto the trailer and the fender just rolls with it and the boat is centered.
 
When my bunks on my King trailer fell off...
Click to expand...

We have a King. What am I missing here? They shouldn't just "fall off". :?

Our's are pretty much spot on. They are very close to the boat and almost center it perfectly. Occasionally, it will slide to one side or the other, but by not more than a couple of inches. I ususlly look at the gaps between the hull and the inner fenders (trailer).

We do lilke Barry; I pull it out slowly and poor lilttle Meredith tries to push/pull it center. If not, I back down again, float the stern and try again. Dave, I wouldn't wanna try to move that stern; my back aches just thinking about it. :wink:
 
Pat, if you have a 2.5" gap on either side once you get the boat on, I'm wondering if you can perhaps:
1) take two short lengths of 2x4 and cover them with carpet
2) Drill a couple of hole in them to allow them hang them to hang off the hand rails between the hull and the guide posts.
3) Drive the boat on without the 2x4's in place and then put them in place to keep the boat centered as you pull out.

Would that work?
 
Roger, I have been thinking along those lines - not a 2x4 but, say, something like this:

789683.gif


Once the widest part goes through the posts, something is needed to keep the stern centered between the posts...I would do the same thing, suspend them horizontally from the rail.


rogerbum":3cxsj51l said:
Pat, if you have a 2.5" gap on either side once you get the boat on, I'm wondering if you can perhaps:
1) take two short lengths of 2x4 and cover them with carpet
2) Drill a couple of hole in them to allow them hang them to hang off the hand rails between the hull and the guide posts.
3) Drive the boat on without the 2x4's in place and then put them in place to keep the boat centered as you pull out.

Would that work?
Click to expand...
 
On my trailer with bunks, I originally used a 2x4 with carpet to pry against the trailer to center my 22 after pulling to the top of the launch. I find it easier now to winch snug to the bow roller, then insert a 2' x 6" piece of high density closed cell foam between the fender on one side and tie the stern line to the vertical guide. Works every time.
 
Should the horizontal box tubes be mounted beneath the trailer frame? Looks like the goal posts are plenty tall and looks like the hull could contact the box tubes as you load? Maybe just the perspective of the photo.
 
The directions specify to mount the tubes on top of the frame, probably because the posts are so heavy and the weight needs to be carried through the tube to the frame, rather than just be carried on the U-bolts. It may be perspective, it does not look to me like there is any danger of the boat contacting the tubes, but I will watch carefully when I try it out next weekend.

Moxieabs":1c4rxzra said:
Should the horizontal box tubes be mounted beneath the trailer frame? Looks like the goal posts are plenty tall and looks like the hull could contact the box tubes as you load? Maybe just the perspective of the photo.
Click to expand...
 
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