Multi Connection Battery Terminals
- Thread starter WeekiTiki
- Start date
Basically there should be one terminal connection to the battery--Some put a bilge pump, the Wallas stove. The recommended procedure, is one cable from the battery to a battery switch. This should be a short run. There does not need to be a fuse between the engine starter and the battery--but for all other circuits-yes.
From the "All" or common, terminal of the battery, would go to the engine start, and a circuit breaker--40 to 60 amps depending on the boat. After the broker there would be a terminal block, with cover, from which all circuits in the back of the boat feed off--in my boats that would include the wallas stove, the bilge pump, trim tabs power etc.
For the negative : lug for the cable from the battery (and other batteries), as well as the engine negative. There would be a wire to a negative terminal block (not covered, but should be protected by some anti corrosion spray or grease.
From the "All" or common, terminal of the battery, would go to the engine start, and a circuit breaker--40 to 60 amps depending on the boat. After the broker there would be a terminal block, with cover, from which all circuits in the back of the boat feed off--in my boats that would include the wallas stove, the bilge pump, trim tabs power etc.
For the negative : lug for the cable from the battery (and other batteries), as well as the engine negative. There would be a wire to a negative terminal block (not covered, but should be protected by some anti corrosion spray or grease.
T.R. Bauer
New member
I don't disagree with Bob, but there is an argument that it really doesn't matter that much either way as long as you don't make a mess of things. I have two wires on the positive - one to the engine and the other to the distribution block. The negative is the same. People like the blocks because they keep the corrosion away from critical connections and help prevent voltage drop. My wallas is happier for some reason wired right to the house battery, but have never really figured out why. At this point, it basically gets what it wants and if its happy, so am I.
T.R. Bauer":2fi3uzd7 said:
I have the Honda 90 directly from the starter (lead acid) battery, and the Wallas directly from the house (LiFePO4). Fuses and terminal blocks for everything else. I don't understand why the Wallas is so problematic, but it works that way, and otherwise I sometimes have problems.
I have blown the small fuse (I believe 3 amps), on the Wallas twice. I don't know why, but Wallas stoves have their own fuses, and their own minds.
Any others have the same experience?
Saw something similar but brass, without the plastic heads on Ship Shape TV
Linky
Boat has dual batteries, both with dual terminals
large terminals on number one battery I use for charging
large terminals on number two battery are vacant
and I want to connect another 12v cigarette/USB charging bank
Linky
Boat has dual batteries, both with dual terminals
large terminals on number one battery I use for charging
large terminals on number two battery are vacant
and I want to connect another 12v cigarette/USB charging bank
The Wallas needs 12.6 + volts to start. Often there is enough resistance, if the terminals are not fully clean and free of corrosion the voltage will drop.
The LiFePO4 battery has a resting voltage of 13.4 to 13.6, and does not drop to 12.6 until 80% discharged! Any connection near the LIFePO4 battery should have over 12.6 volts. Some folks need do have the engine running to start the Wallas--I have never had that problem.
Wiki, 4 wires are allowed to be attached to the terminal under certain conditions by ABYC. Here is a video by ABYC on proper use of the stud terminal--not the battery post.
The reason I feel that the wires should go to a switch, is that you can then isolate each battery. If the starting battery, you can then just turn the switch to allow use of the other battery to start the engine. You might say that you can have the switch so it will connect the two batteries--but still have the start battery hard wired. If the start battery is shorted, then it may pull down the house battery to a point where it would not start the engine.
Also in many cases boaters may not have a "combiner" (VSR) between the batteries, and need to use the "all" setting on the switch to combine the batteries for charging of the house.
Here is some of the ABYC directives. This is not "law" but best practices.
Here is a link on fusing battery leads.. The engine positive lead does not need to be fused. All other wire needs to be properly fused.
Using Nylon nuts and battery terminal placement. If you put more than one wire on a terminal, put the largest wire on the bottom. No washer between the bottom of the lug and largest cable. The smallest wire goes on top. A washer is suitable on top of the battery terminal after all wires on it. NO WING Nuts.
The type of connecter Wiki linked to is a connector which goes around the lead post of a battery. That is frowned upon because there is a decrease of contact surface for the starting battery, as well as several points of possible corrosion and resistance build up.
The LiFePO4 battery has a resting voltage of 13.4 to 13.6, and does not drop to 12.6 until 80% discharged! Any connection near the LIFePO4 battery should have over 12.6 volts. Some folks need do have the engine running to start the Wallas--I have never had that problem.
Wiki, 4 wires are allowed to be attached to the terminal under certain conditions by ABYC. Here is a video by ABYC on proper use of the stud terminal--not the battery post.
The reason I feel that the wires should go to a switch, is that you can then isolate each battery. If the starting battery, you can then just turn the switch to allow use of the other battery to start the engine. You might say that you can have the switch so it will connect the two batteries--but still have the start battery hard wired. If the start battery is shorted, then it may pull down the house battery to a point where it would not start the engine.
Also in many cases boaters may not have a "combiner" (VSR) between the batteries, and need to use the "all" setting on the switch to combine the batteries for charging of the house.
Here is some of the ABYC directives. This is not "law" but best practices.
Here is a link on fusing battery leads.. The engine positive lead does not need to be fused. All other wire needs to be properly fused.
Using Nylon nuts and battery terminal placement. If you put more than one wire on a terminal, put the largest wire on the bottom. No washer between the bottom of the lug and largest cable. The smallest wire goes on top. A washer is suitable on top of the battery terminal after all wires on it. NO WING Nuts.
The type of connecter Wiki linked to is a connector which goes around the lead post of a battery. That is frowned upon because there is a decrease of contact surface for the starting battery, as well as several points of possible corrosion and resistance build up.
starcrafttom
Active member
This is the main problem with all most all electronics in boats. It has become a pet peeve of mine the more boats I own and work on. People use cheap connections and terminals from auto zone or wal mart that have no business being on a boat.
If you do not have connectors with heat shrink, good crimpers ( not needle nose pliers ) and are not using a anti corrosion on every connection you are asking for trouble in a boat. I did not used to be this way and probably one of the worse offenders to the gods of amps and volts but I have changed my ways and repented.
And good connectors are so cheap these days . I just bought a new to me duck boat and plan to replace all the wiring. So far I have temporally wired 10 connections. One wire had 4 connection and changed color 3 times in 4 feet?????? Amazon has good pre installed heat shrink connectors for cheap. Just buy the 200 piece kits in connections, terminal rings and male female connectors and you cant go wrong. Just put it in the boats tool kit. Always use Dielectric grease in ever connection and ring post. I spray it into the heat shrink tube before I put the wire in and then heat it after I crimp. No water will ever get in there.
Like I said its my pet peeve these days for a reason.
smckean (Tosca)
New member
Tom, I too am now a bit of a stickler on connections. Do you feel this way for every connection on a boat? I use heat shrink on every connection where I think water might present; but for many places in the cabin (e.g., under the aft settee where the AC panel is) I don't bother. I've been wondering lately if I should use heat shrink everywhere, but that still seems over-kill to me.starcrafttom":12gpgu1t said:
Also how do you feel about single crimpers vs double crimper tools.
Robert H. Wilkinson
New member
smckean (Tosca)":1v72pjuk said:
On a perfect boat in a perfect world there would be no wires joined. Each and every wire would be a straight uninterrupted run from source to terminus.
Meanwhile back here in the real world,,,,,,, I believe the best join of 2 wires is to slightly separate individual wires and push the 2 ends into each other then soldering and covering with adhesive lined heat shrink at least an inch beyond bared wire on each side. This method of pushing the ends of wire into each other gives more metal to metal surface contact than when each wire is twisted then twisted together. Does anybody solder any more? Time consuming, time is money. The adhesive lined connectors and heat shrink are more expensive but worth it. Ring terminals, etc. can be bought with their own heat shrink.
Dialectric compound should not be used until after a direct metal to metal connection has been made and secured. Improper use can cause an increase in resistance.
By definition - "Dielectric is a material that restricts the flow of current". In an extreme example such as applying it to a battery post before connecting wiring where high current loads are expected - it has been known to start fires from the heat of resistance. Using it on battery connections after they are connected and torqued is does fight corrosion and also stray current which can flow between the pos. and neg. posts when the top is wet, especially if it contains any electrolyte from removing caps or from excessive charging rates.
On a boat I think it is worth doing it right the first time.
Rob
When I can, Use double crimp fittings, with adhesive lined shrink tubing attached. If not attached, then I will place a piece of tubing with adhesive lining.
I always use the double crimp tool.
I use but connectors, and if possible wiring with be in vinyl sheath--and I put shrink tubing over the outer vinyl..
ABYC allows soldering, if the wire is well supported. Their argument is that the wire becomes more brittle and like a solid wire, subject to vibration. Our aero space engineers can weigh in--but I believe that most joints on airplanes are crimped.
I find myself soldering fine wires--such as the ones used for the LED Aisle lighting and lighting inside all of the cabinets--They were mostly #22 wire, which was already primed with solder.
There can be crimp failures...and I have seen some very "creative crimping" with #10/12 connector and # 22 wire..
Earlier I had mentioned AWG vs SAE wiring. For those who do not follow this:
AWG (American Wire Gauge) wires are 3-12% larger diameter than SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), with an accompanying larger carrying capacity. AWG has more thinner strands and is more flexible. As noted before marine wire should be tinned.
When we bought our Cal 46, she was 18 years old, and we know she was in charter in the Caribbean for 10 of those years. We ripped out every wire, and most were original. There was some corrosion thruout all of the wiring--even in the middle of 30 foot runs of wire. I don't know if the wire was originally tinned. Some seemed like it was. I don't think it hurts to seal the end of all wire terminations, with the adhesive shrink tubing--you can keep corrosion at a minim.
I always use the double crimp tool.
I use but connectors, and if possible wiring with be in vinyl sheath--and I put shrink tubing over the outer vinyl..
ABYC allows soldering, if the wire is well supported. Their argument is that the wire becomes more brittle and like a solid wire, subject to vibration. Our aero space engineers can weigh in--but I believe that most joints on airplanes are crimped.
I find myself soldering fine wires--such as the ones used for the LED Aisle lighting and lighting inside all of the cabinets--They were mostly #22 wire, which was already primed with solder.
There can be crimp failures...and I have seen some very "creative crimping" with #10/12 connector and # 22 wire..
Earlier I had mentioned AWG vs SAE wiring. For those who do not follow this:
AWG (American Wire Gauge) wires are 3-12% larger diameter than SAE (Society of Automotive Engineers), with an accompanying larger carrying capacity. AWG has more thinner strands and is more flexible. As noted before marine wire should be tinned.
When we bought our Cal 46, she was 18 years old, and we know she was in charter in the Caribbean for 10 of those years. We ripped out every wire, and most were original. There was some corrosion thruout all of the wiring--even in the middle of 30 foot runs of wire. I don't know if the wire was originally tinned. Some seemed like it was. I don't think it hurts to seal the end of all wire terminations, with the adhesive shrink tubing--you can keep corrosion at a minim.
starcrafttom
Active member
I heat shrink everything. In the boat car truck house plane. if its got a crimp its got heat shrink and the grease. No corrosion is the goal. Even a very thin white corrosion that you can barley see is enough to cause you problems down the line. Remember its just not water its moisture that corrodes.
I just buy the connections with the heat shrink built in.
I use this on everythinghttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6B1VW...ref_=pd_luc_rh_ci_mcx_mr_huc_d_03_03_t_img_lh
All plugs get hit with this or corrosion X. took the motor cover off and any plug in the wiring harness got the gel. I like corrosion X in a spray can for the out board. Just pop the top and mist the whole motor ( not belt). Once a year and I have no corroded bolt or screws. spray the batteries and fuse panals to then wipe off excess.
I just buy the connections with the heat shrink built in.
I use this on everythinghttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6B1VW...ref_=pd_luc_rh_ci_mcx_mr_huc_d_03_03_t_img_lh
All plugs get hit with this or corrosion X. took the motor cover off and any plug in the wiring harness got the gel. I like corrosion X in a spray can for the out board. Just pop the top and mist the whole motor ( not belt). Once a year and I have no corroded bolt or screws. spray the batteries and fuse panals to then wipe off excess.
smckean (Tosca)
New member
Good thought! Thanks for the reply.
T.R. Bauer
New member
Even air does. Unless it's a noble gas.....