Motor flush ( saltwater )

C

Charlie one shoe

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C Dory Year
1988
C Dory Model
22 Angler
Hull Identification Number
DOR2235D888
Vessel Name
SEADUCED
I'm sure there is a post on this subject but could not locate it. My concern is getting all the saltwater crust flushed out of the outboard after a couple weeks of use. I use the earmuffs and hope for the best. I'm sure some of you long time C-Brats have the answer.
Any advice welcomed.

Charlie one shoe
 
Hi Charlie;
I'm using the Salt-Away treatment. It works like one of those devices you
furilize the lawn with. There is a small [abt 8oz.] jug that the liquid Salt-
Away is placed in and as the water passes thru the plumbing above the
jug it siphons the fluid and mixes it with the water. This mixture reacts
with the salt deposits and neutralizes it. I have used it on the surface of
the boat as well with success.

There is a product explanation in the WM catalog, I think.

It sounds like you may have a single OB. If you have twins you may
want to look at the simple adaptor to flush 2 OBs at once in my
Sea Angel Mods. Either way, the parts are available at any hardware
store. The engine flush adaptor will come from the manufacturer, i.e.
HONDA, etc..
 
I use white vinegar with the salt-away applicator.
Vinegar is a lot cheaper :roll: and does as well, if not better, than the salt-away.
 
I also carry "Salt away" aboard--and use to flush. If you are using the boat and going to marinas peroidically, you can use the fresh water flush each time you are at a marina. If not, you could put a gallon of fresh water into the flush port, with "salt away" and use that peroidocially at anchor.
 
Thanks everyone, sounds like Salt-away is the answer

Charlie
 
In addition to flushing my motor with the salt away I also do my trailer axles and springs. You can really see it works by spraying the salt spray from your engine. The vinegar sounds like a really good idea.
 
My boat is kept on a mooring which presents a flushing challenge. The muffs I have do not provide sufficient flow to flush my engines (no stream). What muffs have you guys used that provide sufficient flow? My plan was to flush both after use, then use just one engine to return to the mooring while leaving the other one trimmed up. After the next trip, use the other engine to return to the mooring.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks
 
C-Hawk - You mentioned a Salt-away "Applicator". I checked out the Salt-Away website at http://www.saltawayproducts.com/MarineApp.htm but did not see anything other then plastic spray bottles.

Do they make something special to assist in flushing outboards or do folks just add the Salt-Away product into water in a muff type or other manner of outboard flushing apparatus?

Tanks for the clarification.

Regards,
Dan
 
It's there, just keep looking :roll:
:lol:
The salt-away mixer unit

I bought the salt-away system, used the salt-away until it was gone and continued using the mixer with white vinegar.

Roger
 
Tanks for the pointer on the applicator C-Hawk.

Regrettably, I still posess the impatience of youth; however, I lack the original cause of the problem (no longer young!).

Tanks again,
Dan
 
The best price I found for the salt-away mixing unit separately is under $22 at a place in Bellingham WA; Redden Marine online store.
 
A word of caution. Do not lose the o-ring that comes with the dispenser. Finding a replacement isn't easy. I would also take seriously the manufacturer's warning about too much water pressure through the dispenser.
 
OK, I'll ask the question. How does white vinegar, which has acetic acid, neutralize or decompose salt? I thought an acid and a base make a salt?

Next, what is the active ingredient is Salt Away?

Boris

PS, I'm watching a granddaughter doing home schooling. I've plenty of time to ponder these questions. It was painful for her mother, and no less for her.
 
When flushing twin Hondas using the Salt Away mixing unit, how much of the concentrate should I put in the cup of the mixing unit? Salt Away suggests a 30 second flush. If I fill the cup with concentrate, that will leave some of the diluted solution in the cup. If I used it the next time, would it be too dilute? Sooner or later it would seem that it would be. I suppose I could wash down the boat each time with the remainder of the solution, but it all seems wasteful and expensive. And what are the marks on the side of the cup for, anyway? Maybe I need the user manual for the mixing unit, because the instructions on the bottle of the concentrate don't answer my question.
 
matt_unique":19kq4ozp said:
My boat is kept on a mooring which presents a flushing challenge. The muffs I have do not provide sufficient flow to flush my engines (no stream). What muffs have you guys used that provide sufficient flow? My plan was to flush both after use, then use just one engine to return to the mooring while leaving the other one trimmed up. After the next trip, use the other engine to return to the mooring.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks
Click to expand...

this has me stumped. are you talking about flushing both at one time? I have always just used one of these for a single motor and never had a flow issue. maybe you are missing the inlet?

muff.jpg
 
Their instructions are not perfect. I suspect it's not an exact science and more solution sold is good for business.

That said, I fill the cup and manage multiple flushes w/ it. Once the container appears totally H2O (kinda subjective) I re-fill it. I've also used the unit to rinse the boat when I'm lazy to wash it or if I'm gonna use it again soon and poured some of the weakened solution in a bucket of water and run the dingy engine in it. You can still see it "foam" from the pea stream. It appears the % of solution to water is extremely diluted to work.
 
For my Twin Yamaha's, my mechanic said that a plain water flush through the engines will work if it runs at least 15 - 20 minutes. That is what I have done since my Salt away ran out about 5 years ago.

I would be interested in the white vinegar process. I like the idea and it might be more effective than just the water, but that has been working and the reports from the mechanics are all good.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon
 
I believe the engine should run with water only though the muffs until the thermostats open up. Then the SaltAway should be applied.
 
Jack in Alaska":v73vouaw said:
I believe the engine should run with water only though the muffs until the thermostats open up. Then the SaltAway should be applied.
Click to expand...

Yes. Then when you see the "foaming" exiting the exhaust, I run it for 30 seconds or so then shut it all down.
 
Don;
I, too, have the CD25 with twin, 2004, 90HP HONDA's . I picked up a hose "Y" at Home Depot and a second engine flush adaptor as seen in the album of mod's -

This setup allows me to flush both engines at the same time, thus cutting my time on the rack by 25 minutes.

When I don't mind getting too wet, I'll even drain the carbs at the same time [not that this has anything to do with flushing the engines.].

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _album.php

I also use the adaptors as nozzels when I'm at the marina and have used the SaltAway to clear any harsh salt collections by using only one leg of the "Y". Rescently I added a freshwater flush for my 12000btu A/C and make use of one leg of the same "Y" hose setup.

Art
 
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