Motor Boat Boat Stands

T

Tug

New member
I was thinking on ordering ( 4 ) boat stands from Hosar Marine, •Tripod design maximizes stand strength, ensures stability on uneven yard surfaces.
•Continuous base prevents legs from spreading...helps prevent sinking into gravel or asphalt paving.
•Heavy-duty angle iron construction won't twist or bend.
•Choice of durable painted finish, or tough hot-dipped galvanizing for years of maintenance-free use.
•New! Lightweight, zinc-coated screw with handle (rated at 12,500 lbs.) for little maintenance, easier handling and longer life.
•12"x12" finished plywood pads protect hull without slipping.


They are the type with the hollow screws and can be raised under load but only a turn at a time i was told. Each stand is only about 21 lbs.

I was looking at the stands that adjust 23 -34 inch.I know that there is a lot cheaper way of raising a boat but my bones are not up to it.

Does anyone have an opinion on boat stands that are light weight and have hollow screws. Are these types of stands/safe , really adjustable or are they just for mainly support.Tug
 
Generally the stands are used to support the sides of the hull bottom and not take the weight of the boat. For example, blocks or cribbing under the keel , and then stands; two on each side to prevent the boat from tipping either way. You need to chain the stand together, so they don't slide out. Often plywood is put under the steel also, to spread the load, so that it will not sink into mud or soft sand.

Yes, you can raise the boat, but jacks are a lot easier and probably safer, following with the stands.
 
Warren.....i could shore up the trailer, have done it before, but i want to sand the hull bottom, do a few gel-coat repairs. I will also be putting on Interprotect 2000E and than a bottom coat. That is alot of crawling/bending/stretching to do working around a trailer. Thought it would be alot easier if i could raise the boat about 30 inches, put the ( 4 ) boat stands up plus some cribbing. With the trailer removed i could than lay down on my creeper and do the work in relative comfort and also save my back. Tug
 
Tug, don't understand how you're gonna get the stands under there and THEN pull out the trailer.... :roll:

Several folks have put supports under the aft end, jacked them up a little and gradually pulled the trailer out from under it, adding supports as they go.

Here's another way....

PICT0262.sized.jpg

Charlie
 
Thanks Harvey, I did consider (and asked with a :thup from the owner, John) borrowing it but never got aroundtuit with my 22. Wouldn't work for the TC...

Charlie
 
Charlie...thats a great unit, i looked at them but its costs too much for my small pension. Like you said it is a slow process,i drop the trailer bow end, put blocks under the stern, ( i tie a rope to the boats stern tow cleat and the other end of the rope to a tree.Than slowly pull the trailer out leaving just enough on the trailer ,than i use a heavy duty jack under the keel to raise the boat just enough to clear the trailer.Support the boat where ever i can and pull the trailer, than go around the boat slowly jacking up the boat to the height i want.It's slow and kinda dangerous but it works.Tug
 
I have taken a number of boats this size off the trailer. First you put blocking under the stern and then several jacks under the keel. You need cribbing under the jacks (I use hyraulic jacks)--with a solid-(Oak) block--and so it the wood will not split--and the jack does not contact directly with the boat. As the trailer is pulled forward, with weight on the jacks and blacks (you don't pull the boat off the trailer, because of loss of stability aft), you then put solid blocks or cribbing under the keel. As you work forward, and clear the trailer, you put a second set of jack stands or blocks forward. (as in the photo ref above).

You want to be very careful. I would never crawl under a boat supported only by jack stands--you must have the keel blocks. As I noted before, you don't want the weight on the jack stands--they are there for balance. There are cases where jack stands have gone thru the hull of a boat, because there was not enough area for distribution of the load--when the weight was taken on the stand.

The folks in the commercial yard use hydraulic jacks, and then follow up with adjustment with the jack stands.
 
Dr. Bob is right regarding using boat stands for balance. Keels stands, however, may be used for supporting the keel instead of blocks and cribbage; supporting the weight in at least two places on the keel. Brownell stands which are either earliest adopters or originators of using boat stands vs lumber or cradles for boats on land here in the northeast where we haul boats seasonally do have a type of stand for the keel load of powerboats (keel stands). Cinder/cement blocks and cribage are less expensive under the keel but the keel stands are relativelely inexpensive, ( I think less than 100 bucks per stand) consistent in strength and design, easy to adjust, and available from Defender Industries. See http://www.boatstands.com/ for more info. I use four stands on my CD 25, two keel stands and one on each side under the outboard ends of the transom when standing the boat on land without the trailer.
 
The retail price on the keel stands are $135 each for the cheapest. I don't like concrete or cinder blocks--because they can crumble. Keel stands are great if you have a very solid surface--but if if you see one boat fall over because of improper blocking, or a soft surface, it will make a believer. If the boat shifts, or someone bumps it with a lift etc--the blocks are more likely to survive.
 
I am considering a new plan to raise my boat and pull the trailer. My plan is to raise the stern using a trolley jack and than block. Than raise the bow up off the trailer about 6-8 inches. Than i will slide a 6 inch x 12 foot steel I-Beam under the bow and rest it on the trailer.I will insert a piece of wood on the I-Beam where it will contacts the bottom of the hull.The ends of the I-Beam will be resting on a raised solid platforms. Than i will slowly raise the I-Beam using jacks on the two platforms until it clears the trailers wheels. I will slowly pull the trailer and block where needed. This use of a I-Bean should make the boat very stable and easier to put the trailer back under the boat. Tug
 
what is the lift of your floor jack? (I assume that this is basically the same as a "trolley jack".) Generally Floor jacks have limited lifts--18 to 22 inches, and are made for getting under tight places (I carry one in the truck for the boat trailer). There are some commercial (expensive) floor jacks which will go up to 30 or so inches. Because of the limited lift of the floor jack, I have not used them for lifting a boat off a trailer. Although they have a broad base they have wheels--and that can cause some unstabillity. You want to equally lift both sides of the stern of the C Dory at once. You want to block the transom at the aft edges of the hull. This takes the weight of the motor and the hull straight down.

I am not sure how you are going to get this big beam in there (a 12" high I beam is a heavy object), and you have to get it fairly far back on the trailer. Forward there is a "V" in the hull, and blocking this is less stable than the wider flat part where there is minimal dead rise. Again--generally the weight is put on keel blocks, --in an outboard boat, transom blocks also work well--and stands or secondary blocks keep the boat stable from tipping. Just be safe!
 
There are some possible problems to this plan as you have pointed out, i will probably just go with just 4 boat stands and a keel stand. Are 4 boat stands and one keel stand be safe enough to work under, seems very dangerous to me, one stand goes they all go. Tug
 
Any local boat yards that will lift and setup the boat for a small fee and/or buy the paint from them and you do the prep and painting?
 
Brent, there is only one marina/boat dealer that works on boats here.They will not set your boat on stands/blocks for you do do any work, you have to let them do everything and they charge quite a bit. I already have the bottom paint and Interprotect 2000E epoxy so i will will do the work myself.I will figure something out. Thanks Tug
 
Brent ...good idea ! there is one marine repair facility for mostly tugs and larger boats. I will drive over there and see what there have to offer, maybe they will put my boat on blocks for me if they have the room or have some used boat jacks that i can use.Will post when i have some information. Thanks Tug
 
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