Where will find the fuse for the Jabsco overboard macerator pump on my TC255. The sump pump switch, wired to the same panel as the macerator pump is “dead” too. I checked the fuse block behind the helm but found no blown fuses. Btw, the pump turns freely with a screw driver, so it’s not jammed — Where should I be looking…
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Macerator fuse on TC255
- Thread starter nwboater
- Start date
gulfcoast john
New member
Hi Richard,
On my 2010 TC255, ALL EIGHT WATER PUMPS (not including engines) ALL lead to a single 30A fuse at the fuse block under the helm panel. The Positive side will have a heavy green w white stripe wire leading to it. I labeled that position ‘ALL PUMPS’.
The other pumps may include the blackwater macerator, shower sump (with water heater overheat valve), 2 Fish Box Macerators, Fresh Water pump, 1 Bilge Pump per sponson, and Raw Water Washdown pumps.
Pull that fuse and examine it carefully in full daylight. It can be hard to tell if it’s blown if the separation is far down in the plastic body. Test the voltage with your DC multimeter (fuse + to common ground). Consider replacing all the ATC fuses with Blue Seas Easy ID fuses, which have a LED that lights up when blown.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems ... r=8-1&th=1
Check the fuse legs for any discoloration or age and replace it regardless.
Any TC255 deserves Rule Gold 2500 GPH bilge pumps, replaced every 5 years. They live a hard life, esp the leads.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ99Y?re ... Bgold&th=1
One failed but saved our boat after 19 inches of rain in eight hours one night with the port flapper four inches underwater.
I added an individual 15A fuse within 1 foot of every pump and think that makes more sense for overall wiring protection (which is what fuses are about, after all).
Hope this is helpful.
John
On my 2010 TC255, ALL EIGHT WATER PUMPS (not including engines) ALL lead to a single 30A fuse at the fuse block under the helm panel. The Positive side will have a heavy green w white stripe wire leading to it. I labeled that position ‘ALL PUMPS’.
The other pumps may include the blackwater macerator, shower sump (with water heater overheat valve), 2 Fish Box Macerators, Fresh Water pump, 1 Bilge Pump per sponson, and Raw Water Washdown pumps.
Pull that fuse and examine it carefully in full daylight. It can be hard to tell if it’s blown if the separation is far down in the plastic body. Test the voltage with your DC multimeter (fuse + to common ground). Consider replacing all the ATC fuses with Blue Seas Easy ID fuses, which have a LED that lights up when blown.
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems ... r=8-1&th=1
Check the fuse legs for any discoloration or age and replace it regardless.
Any TC255 deserves Rule Gold 2500 GPH bilge pumps, replaced every 5 years. They live a hard life, esp the leads.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZ99Y?re ... Bgold&th=1
One failed but saved our boat after 19 inches of rain in eight hours one night with the port flapper four inches underwater.
I added an individual 15A fuse within 1 foot of every pump and think that makes more sense for overall wiring protection (which is what fuses are about, after all).
Hope this is helpful.
John
John, thanks for the detailed description. My boat is a 2018 model, and the fuse block has a 15 amp fuse labeled "head" but no 30 amp fuse. I will bring my multi-meter and check the wiring and all the fuses again. Btw, I lifted the floor panel under the sink, and inspected the shower sump box, and looked for an inline fuse but did not find one there. Because the overboard macerator and the sump pump are both dead, I'm convinced they're on the same "circuit" and fuse...
added an individual 15A fuse within 1 foot of every pump and think that makes more sense for overall wiring protection (which is what fuses are about, after all).
John, I would consider putting the fuse near it's "Take off point" from the terminal block--or at the fused terminal block. Especially if you (correctly) want to protect the wire--and avoid a short circuit and catastrophic fire. If a short (wire rubs against an aluminum fuel tank, which is grounded for example, the fuse near the pump will not protect that wire.
It is too bad that C Dory does not use coded wiring--or as in a number of RV's have the function of the wire, printed on its jacket. When I first get a "new" to me, boat added an individual 15A fuse within 1 foot of every pump and think that makes more sense for overall wiring protection (which is what fuses are about, after all).
I like to trace out the circuits and use a simple labeler to label as many wires as possible.
Gulfcoastjohn
New member
Bob,
Thanks, great points.
Richard,
I thought about it some more, and an alternate scenario to explain this could POSSIBLY be:
If you have Blue Seas WeatherDeck switches which include a pop-up breaker under a clear plastic ‘bubble’ cover, could the Macerator breaker have tripped/popped up and you didn’t notice it? (Please don’t take that as an insult, it’s not).
https://www.westmarine.com/blue-sea-sys ... stribution
AND INCIDENTALLY BUT ALSO,
Whichever shower sump box brand you have, you can’t test it without taking off the top cover (4 screws) and manually activating the float switch (may be integral to the pump) to see if it turns on.
Assuming you have a non-electric, gravity tank Head, I can’t imagine why that fuse would be labeled ‘Head’ rather than ‘Shower Sump’ but oh well. The dome light in the head would be expected to be on a ‘cabin lights’ circuit, rather than a ‘head’ circuit.
If the float switch is inop in any of these shower sump boxes, it’s easier to replace the whole box in most cases.
If neither alternative solves your issue, cut the wires to each pump and connect it DIRECTLY to a known good 12v battery source (Weego etc) to see if the pump is dead vs whether it’s a wiring issue.
Good luck, and let us know what your sleuthing finds.
The CD25 Hunky Dory crew completed the Loop this month, and Lisa had a daily topic on her blog: “What Broke:”
It’s a boat…it’s always SOMETHING!
John
Thanks, great points.
Richard,
I thought about it some more, and an alternate scenario to explain this could POSSIBLY be:
If you have Blue Seas WeatherDeck switches which include a pop-up breaker under a clear plastic ‘bubble’ cover, could the Macerator breaker have tripped/popped up and you didn’t notice it? (Please don’t take that as an insult, it’s not).
https://www.westmarine.com/blue-sea-sys ... stribution
AND INCIDENTALLY BUT ALSO,
Whichever shower sump box brand you have, you can’t test it without taking off the top cover (4 screws) and manually activating the float switch (may be integral to the pump) to see if it turns on.
Assuming you have a non-electric, gravity tank Head, I can’t imagine why that fuse would be labeled ‘Head’ rather than ‘Shower Sump’ but oh well. The dome light in the head would be expected to be on a ‘cabin lights’ circuit, rather than a ‘head’ circuit.
If the float switch is inop in any of these shower sump boxes, it’s easier to replace the whole box in most cases.
If neither alternative solves your issue, cut the wires to each pump and connect it DIRECTLY to a known good 12v battery source (Weego etc) to see if the pump is dead vs whether it’s a wiring issue.
Good luck, and let us know what your sleuthing finds.
The CD25 Hunky Dory crew completed the Loop this month, and Lisa had a daily topic on her blog: “What Broke:”
It’s a boat…it’s always SOMETHING!
John
John, I think you may have nailed it! The so-called WeatherDeck switches (mounted alongside the aft steering station on my boat) are labeled and operate the fish box macerators. But it makes sense that the blackwater macerator pump would be tied to this same switch. (Though good practices would have it wired to a dedicated breaker or easy to get at fuse). Tomorrow, I'll go to the boat and check the weather deck panel fuses -- fingers crossed!
A head pump out should definitely have its own breaker/switch. In many areas the macerator has to be "locked" off (some even require a segment of hose be taken out). This is the LAW. "locked off" can mean a key switch like an ignition switch. These switches are used regularly in RV's for slide outs. Many holding systems have padlock hole on the Y valve to lock it off.s
My 2006 TC 255 had a switch labeled "macerator".
My 2006 TC 255 had a switch labeled "macerator".
Okay, problem solved! The fuse is behind the switch cover mounted inside the head compartment (TC255). Next to it is a 15 amp fuse for the sump pump. Regarding the WeatherDeck panel on my 2018 model year, the fuses for the fish box macerators are also behind the cover...a flat head screwdriver is needed to pry both switch covers loose.