Lowrance Auto pilot

I truly appreciate the hands-onb experiences shared. I am closer to getting one now.

I've thought long and hard about Dr. Bob's observation's about the pump size and have decided that I'll be okay if the pump goes away or the unit malfunctions as I'll likely only use it as a fishing tool.

However I do a lot of single handing in far away places and this WILL become a helmsman. I do worry about times I need the boat to keep a course in BAD water so I can do something else, and wonder how it will perform then. I will need to trust it very well before I'll ever find out and sincerely hope that lowrance has tested this unit well in rough water, but have my doubts about it's capabilities in heavy pitch and roll.
 
I think that for about $1400 we can get to a really good AP for this system.

We have the Simrad Drivepilot that matches the Lowrance Outboard Pilot, except the compass is upgraded from the Point-1 the the RC42. As has been mentioned previously, I believe this would be of great benefit for those operating on rough water as the Point1 might not do as well as it would on lakes.

The pump and the computer are the same.

You can get a Lowrance Outboard Pilot now for around $830. The Simrad verison is $1100 (these the best prices after some looking). A difference of $270.

I believe that you could improve on the Simrad Drivepilot substantially by purchasing the Lowrance Outboard Pilot, and then purchasing a Precision-9 compass at $645.

The Simrad ends up being a $370 increase from the Lowrance.

A quick look on ebay shows the Point1 compass going for $150.

If one were to sell their Point1 it leaves your overall increase in cost at $220 to upgrade essentially upgrade from a Simrad DrivePilot to a better AP with a precision 9. A total of $1320. That's a very nice AP for a small boat! Really about as good as it gets without just buying parts.

The NAC1 and Pump1 would cost nearly this much to buy separately, so the lowrance OB Pilot is really a great option for getting these two parts.

I'm calling this my AP "Plan A." Someone else should definitely do this and let me know how it works!
 
Wait! I carried a typo as I figured this out this morning and generally made no sense. I just bruised my ribs and the meds are not good for maths.

basically I figured out that if you bought an outboard pilot for $830 and sold the Point1 for $150 you'd be $680 in the hole. Then add a Precision 9 compass for $645 and you'd have a sweet setup for only $1325.

With the simrad DrivePilot at $1100 or so, the extra $225 for the Precision 9 would be well worth it on the ocean. I wouldn't be surprised if there isn't an AP package put together here for that amount.

Heck, you might even be able to go to Cabelas and talk them into swapping out the Point 1 (at $199 retail price) and ordering a Precision 9. They've done stuff like that for me with transducers.

Sorry about being confusing.

Also, I don't own any of these... yet.
 
Looks like the precision 9 would replace the RC42, not the point1. whoops! That can be sold for around $500!

So with that in mind, $330 for the outboard pilot pack after selling the rc42. $645 for the precision 9 and the whole thing for $975. That's only $145 MORE than the outboard pilot, and it's $125 LESS than the Simrad Drive pilot for an arguably better AP.

Sorry for being all over the place. I'll get smarter in a few days when I'm healed up.
 
Per earlier posts on this topic, I've been running my Lowrance outboard autopilot (AP) for two fishing season now, and the performance is as predicted: fabulous. I fish for salmonids a lot on Lake Michigan, and the AP has performed as I originally hoped and expected. The AP helps us to catch a lot more fish by taking away the mundane act of working the helm, and allows us to focus on the gear, location, electronics, etc to stay dialed into the fish. I especially like the zigzag function; which causes the boat to move laterally along while staying on course. On days with little wind this function alone gets us into more fish by varying the action of the lures continuously. When we get a fish on, we just take the AP off zigzag and it holds a straight course to work the fish to the boat. Additionally, the AP works very well at very slow (1 KN) speeds and holds course (unless it's blowing like hell).

Drawbacks? Only one: a total of three times (in two seasons), the AP completely shut itself off. The result of not enough amperage feeding to the AP. The issue is not a problem as you can restart the AP immediately.

Having this AP has the pursuit of salmonids and char on the great lakes a lot easier and more enjoyable.
 
dgeorges,

I'm about ready to replace my old Raymarine S1000 and have been reading about the Lowrance AP. I'm glad you posted because it's changed my mind a bit because what I've been reading on other sites isn't as complimentary. Sounds like your unit is working great and works well for trolling for salmon, which is how I would use it. Hmmmm, food for thought...

Peter
 
Glad you are looking into this AP. Read my post earlier in this string for some tips and tricks; including misnomers and problems with dummies trying to use the AP without properly commissioning and calibrating the AP.

If you decide to get a Lowrance AP, give me a PM and we'll exchange digits so I can give you some personal hints before your install. The whole unit is easy to install, you just gotta watch out for a few minor things.

As for salmon, you will be soooooooo happy when all is in place, you get a big hit on your gear and your AP will help you with the helm work while you and your buddies concentrate on the fish.

HOWEVER! WARNING: I don't think an AP is a substitute for going fishing alone for safety's sake. Your AP aint gonna help you if you fall O/B. Good luck with your decision!
 
dgeorges-So I have been researching the simrad unit and its functions. Deep in the literature it states that the AP will follow a depth contour that you can set. Have you used this function and does it work well?. Here in the PNW we fish for salmon on the bottom at certain depths. Being able to follow or not get off a set depth would be wonderful.
 
Thanks for the offer dgeorges. If I do decide to go with the Lowrance AP, it probably won't be until next winter or spring. I'll PM you for your tips.

Peter
 
starcrafttom":3smch1jh said:
dgeorges-So I have been researching the simrad unit and its functions. Deep in the literature it states that the AP will follow a depth contour that you can set. Have you used this function and does it work well?. Here in the PNW we fish for salmon on the bottom at certain depths. Being able to follow or not get off a set depth would be wonderful.
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Have not used the contour function on the AP routes. I have never needed to as trolling in the great lakes is very dependent on direction due to underwater currents just like the Pacific waters. In addition, I catch a lot fish around bathymetric structure like drop offs, swales, boulders and humps. If I was to use the contour function, I would not be able to work the bathymetry as well. Finally, I work very shallow water on certain days for Brown trout hiding amongst all of the near some of the beaches. The AP contour function would lose contact and go on standby the first time the sonar signal hits a boulder. Cheers
 
Exactly. When you do acquire an AP, install and commission it properly, you will enter a new world of navigational fun that will make your outings a whole lot more enjoyable and productive. I fish for salmon in L.Michigan at night in total darkness (which is when they bite best). The AP is a HUGE part of a succeful trip (including a safe return to port).

Thighs lines!
 
As a follow up to this post, I would like to advise that I have been using this Lowrance outboard Pilot since 2015 with fabulous results. This great AP has made my navigation safer, and more enjoyable.

The AP works perfectly with the Lowrance HDS 9 to guide my CD 16 on course. The system is easy to commision yurself right out of the box (critical if you want the whole thing to work properly).

The AP is run from the touchscreen on the Lowarnce sonar unit, and allows me to not only set courses, but to create patterns with he boat that keeps us on reefs, can activate the lures on calm days (zig zag), and save a lot fuel.

This AP allows us to stay on the fish once we find them, and then maintains a already SLOW course once we hook a fish to help us land the fish...especially when I'm fishing alone and I'm trying to bring a huge Chinook to the net here in the great lakes.

If any of you have any reservations about installing the Lowrance AP, DON'T! It's a great tool for navigation and fishing.

PS: I am only sponsored by my lovely bride of 30 years, I only provide this follow up to those trying to make a decision on which AP to install.

Tight lines and safe returns to port!
 
dgeorges":1hb8fbls said:
This AP allows us to stay on the fish once we find them, and then maintains a already SLOW course once we hook a fish to help us land the fish...especially when I'm fishing alone and I'm trying to bring a huge Chinook to the net here in the great lakes.

Tight lines and safe returns to port!
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Thanks for the great review. I just need to upgrade my Navionics and then would love a tutorial from an expert like you. I did manage to land a 30 pounder on my 25 cruiser with just one deckhand which would have been almost impossible without the AP. If you want to fish salmon or halibut on the west coast I'll offer a free charter for a Lowrance AP lesson!
 
Chromer:

MOST OF THE PROBLEMS with the Lowrance AP are caused by user error. People think that they can just plug in and go play. Wrong. You must commission this unit properly dockside, then take the boat out and get the GPS antennae talking with the sonar unit properly.

I read all the bad reviews too. Talked with the tech folks at Lowrance, and realized that I'm not one of those idiots that doesn't read instructions. I read all the text and I did everything by the book, and here I am three seasons later still using this great AP with little or no issues.

Heck, Lowrance has some great videos on how to install, commission, and use their AP. Their instructions are spot on.

If there is an issue, it's this: You must have enough amperage going to the NMEA system to run the AP, sonar, and GPS antannae. I have had one instance of loss of GPS location in three years and hundreds of hours of trolling and catching fish.

I do this on my boat by having a good 10 amp alternator on the outboard (Honda BF50) which runs juice to a BlueSea sensor which senses the amperage in the batteries and provides the amperage as needed to keep the batteries up. Ask yourself: those folks who run a standalone kicker motor to troll with; how do they charge their batteries? Why do they bitch when their AP runs low on amperage after 6-8 hrs of trolling?

I recently trolled Lake Michigan with a guy outta Wisconsin who had the same sonar/AP system as me installed in a CD 19 except his was a cable system and mine is hydraulic. He got the same great results as I did. And his boat was hold a course in 6 ft swells, and we were catching chinooks! Another guy I know who fishes the gr8 lakes has the same install as the CD 19 and his works perfect as well.

Good luck.[/b]
 
I do this on my boat by having a good 10 amp alternator on the outboard (Honda BF50) which runs juice to a BlueSea sensor which senses the amperage in the batteries and provides the amperage as needed to keep the batteries up.
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What is this "Blue Seas sensor"?
 
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