Looking to buy C Dory

Let me add to the type of things we do to our boats somewhat as a supplement to Jay's excellent list: Lifting davit to put the dinghy on the roof and move heavy items in the cockpit. (about $400). Decadence Carpet (About $ you don't want to know, but the Admiral is happy with it) but over a boat unit. Dry deck lining in all lockers between the hull; ($200) Battery monitoring system: Victron 702 $200, LED lighting upgrades (including in cabinets). $200. fans: $300. (plus portable for forward hatch or forward window)
No See-um screens for all windows and door. ($15 Army surplus net and velcro). Camper back (If Bimini and any parts not present--can be up to $5000). AIS receiver. and second radio ($300 plus)

Upgrade battery charger--the ones which come with the boat are designed for slow charge after you have been out for a day. If you are doing serious cruising: using refrigerators, freezers, fans or heater. etc--you may need a 20 amp charger to utilize the best management of the batteries. The factory charger will fail at some point. We do go to AGMs if the batteries check out weak or are over 4 years old, with unknown maintenance.

CO monitor--we have two--one by the helm and one by the head of the bunk. $75. Graphics for the name and hailing port: (from $5 to $400). Anchor windlass, new anchor roller, better anchor, rode and chain. (8 plait with G4 chain; second stern anchor: total cost can be in the $500 + range. Also stern line to the bank. Add new windows to trunk cabin over berths: $250. How about crab and shrimp traps? Fishing gear?

We have kept the same dinghy and motors (Inflatable with air floor $1500, Torqeedo 1003 (two boat units), and 3.5 two stroke Marc $1200.

You don't like the XX stove--and a new one may be from $30 (propane from WalMart) to over $3000 (Diesel Wallas from Scan Marine).

Bottom paint: epoxy undercoat--can be over 2 boat units.

Winter full cover--$500 to $1000+.

None of the above are essential; you can be like Jonathon Arthur and do the loop with an I phone, a $90 depth finder and a couple of 5 gallon plastic containers to ferry gas to the boat in. I believe he added a chart plotter for the 3rd time around.
 
one other item I have not seen mentioned yet. For some it should be required on board, for others (more like Jay) it could be a considered option.

I have had a AAA Auto Club membership since I started driving. That was a ways back and after turning 70 I found out I may have a basic membership for free for the rest of my life. OK, That is a fair expenditure considering I have used it about 6 times total, but it was always there if I needed it, (towing, lock out, jump start, run out of gas etc.)

I am not a mechanic by any means, cars or boats. SO.....

I also have a Boat US membership. (Works like AAA for cars -- towing, fuel, etc.) I have never used that either, but where I boat, the average towing fee for a boat is near $700. Minimum is about $300. Not something I want to cough up anytime soon, so I have the Boat US membership, just in case.

I keep my PM's done, and try to look ahead at any possible issues. My buddy in grade school was a Boy Scout. He told me their motto was "Always be repaired". I guess I never wanted to join those ranks.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Good points made so far on the annual cost of owning a C-Dory. Like mentioned, it is easier on our pocket book if we consider our boat as a she instead of an it. Walk around the trailer and look for things such as a milky color in the oil bath hubs if you have them etc. Catching things early such as low hydraulic oil in the steering can make a difference in a successful outing or not. There are so many things that can go wrong with owning a boat. If you have a Wallas Stove/Heater, (We love ours) run it for an hour at-least once a month to keep the fuel lines from gelling and to keep it operating properly. If you can keep your boat stored out of the water and in a dry storage environment in the winter that will also be better for your boat.
My wife points out, "A little time spent in regular checks and maintenance can save you a lot of time, money and grief.
 
gary f":bsqzmsx3 said:
...and at all costs, never put anything but non-ethanol fuel in your fuel tanks.
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My boat has used ethanol added gas for its entire life, including having fuel sit over the winter. When it is known that the boat is going to sit for more than 6 weeks or so, I try to remember to put Stabil in the fuel, but it doesn't always happen.

On occasion I do get fuel from a marina with non-ethanol gas, but most of the time my fuel is from the same pump that fills the tow vehicle.

So far, haven't had any problems. Since my Honda OB is pretty much the same engine as in one of my cars, I don't expect that using ethanol fuel will ever be a problem. IMO, the concerns over 10% ethanol fuel are overblown.
 
IMO, the concerns over 10% ethanol fuel are overblown.
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Not so. If you have a carburated engine, you would be cursing it. Same if you have any "gunk" in your tank--and the ethanol dissolves it--big trouble. Some fuel lines have had major issues--new ones are more resistant.

Thank your lucky stars you have not had any problems. One man's experience does not the truth make.
 
ssobol,

I agree with your thoughts of ethanol gas. I've run ethanol gas in Journey On for the last 12 years with nary a problem. We use the boat for scattered trips, so that it sits for several months between being run. Once a year, we'll run the engine for months, and then it sets again. Starts right up. Does sound like the old tractor.

The motor is from an EFI Honda Accord. I'll use STP Gas Treatment once a year to remove any water, just as I do in my vehicles; Stabil when we come back from a trip. Has worked well.

During the first year we owned Journey On, the gas stations sold straight gas, then one could only buy ethanol gas. Lost a 1/2 mpg, but no problems running it.

I don't understand the complaints. There must be somthing else that's happening.

Boris
 
ssobol":1x9do2d7 said:
thataway":1x9do2d7 said:
...

Thank your lucky stars you have not had any problems. One man's experience does not the truth make.
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That goes both ways.
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Just read some of the forums like The Hull Truth about the issues with ethanol gas. I should be in favor of it, since my farm raises corn...
 
Ethanol Gas :( :twisted: :monty

I am in the camp of "Yea I do use it" but I hate to, and most of the time I get non ethanol but it is getting harder to get. I do ALWAYS use Stabil and Startron when getting close to putting the boat away, and will add fresh gas much sooner after it sits if I am going to be on the boat for several tank fills. IF I am on a several tank fill trip I do not add either the Stabil or Startron , but I do add Yamaha Ring Free, especially if I am running long hours each day.

When I first got my boat it had only 80 hours on it, (over 1400 now), and I had to have the carbs cleaned and rebuilt because it sat for an unknown amount of time 3 - 8 months and it didn't run worth a hoot.

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The rebuild was done on warrantee, and it was all six carbs (3 in each OB). The gunk in the carbs was like hardened grease almost like shale.

IMGP6731.sized.jpg

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Photos from my album here:
http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

The mechanic said to use the Stabil and Startron. I have ever since, and had NO, exactly no problems.

The price of the non ethanol fuel when I can, and the Stabil and Startron are worth the peace of mind that is will start all the time, every time and run like a top.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

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Well, there are those who have carburetors and hate ethanol and those who have fuel injection and aren't bothered by ethanol.

Fortunately the Honda 150 is EFI and I appreciate that. The smaller 10 horse motors, which are both (past tense) Honda and (present) Tohatsu are carbureted. I solve that problem by draining the carb after every trip. It's worked well. Do it for the bikes too.

Boris
 
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