"It's too hot to live"

S

Snider

New member
"It's too hot to live" my 7 yo Saturday night while anchored out for the night in Edisto SC. I need to work on ventilation. I've been putting off these projects as there's just been other stuff to do, it's not my area of expertise and typically we've only anchored out when it's been cool. Really need to work on ventilation, screens and some fans.

I've been looking at all of the curtain pictures and like the ones I've seen with a teak strip mounted above the window and sunbrella that rolls up and stores there. Is there any off the shelf resources for this? I imagine I'll have to mount them myself and get someone to sew them for me.

Next I need to get screen coverings for the opening window, forward hatch and door. Also need to rig up something up so we can keep these open in the rain. It gets hot when it starts to rain and you have to mostly close everything.

Anyone recommend any resources for fan manufacturer? From my sailing days Hella was popular. Also any semi off the shelf curtain resources? Not sure I'm any good at sewing. Also thought about mounting a couple small hatches in the roof like I saw in one of the boats for sale, Need something that keeps water out though. Maybe a dorade vent up on the foredeck? I really hate drilling holes in the boat.


Any pictures or thoughts about the best place to install fans? I figure one or two in the v-berth and maybe two in the cabin?
 
Kids...:lol:

Curtains: I just cut strips of wood, painted them to match the interior and glued them up with 5200. Then used plastic curtain tracks that are widely available on the internet. The curtains were custom made and I did not sew them. They were sewn by a fellow Cbrat's wife. She is a pro and the quality is A+. Pics in our album.

Window screens came with the boat. One for the door would increase the surface area, but we don't have one as the PNW generally does not get "hot".
 
Our new to us boat came with snap on blue sunbrella curtains, we roll them up and hold them with double side velcro straps. The previous owner in South Dakota heat sewed a white material on the outside that really reflects the sun.
 
My current 25 has wood strips affixed to the area above side and aft windows, The curtain material is slid into a track and when rolled up is head by small diameter shock cord, looped over a round head screw. The forward curtains have shock cord around the periphery, and go around "buttons" screwed to the window Frame All of my other C Dory have had the snap on Sunbrella curtains. remove one of the frame screws in the corners, and put a Male snap in its place. The threads are close enough.

Screens. Current boat has shock cord around periphery. I have used army surplus No see em net and hot glued velcro to the edges. The mating velcro is contact cemented to the window or hatch frame.

For the forward hatch, we use an Endless Breeze Fan

The fan is supported on 5/8" dowels which go across the hatch (we flattened the ends so it does not roll)

We have a cover which goes from under the eyebrow, over the foredeck, being held by eye bolts under the eyebrow, and pieces of 3/8" line to the bow pulpit. If it is really blowing, we take the forward end of this to the deck on each side of the pulpit (eye bolts) and to the forward cleat.

This allows both the forward opening window, and the hatch to be open, and protected from rain.

For the inside each bunk has outboard, at the aft end of the bunk: Caframo Maestro fans. These have a remote variable speed control as well as control for the red or white LED light which is in the center of the fan. The remote control is placed so it can be operated from outside the V berth, or by reaching overhead when you are lying down.

Also the port bulkhead of the V Berth area has been completely removed--much better air circulation. We run the fans almost every night--mostly on the lowest setting.

Then there is air conditioning!
 
Thanks Bob, that would possibly solve my lighting problem too. How bright is the light? I was planning on adding those dome white or red lights to replace the factory light anyway. What do you think, four to these for the 22? Two in the V, two in the cabin?
 
Curtains and screens only restrict air flow and increase perceived heat.
Realize, heat is one thing and bugs are another.

If I had my drothers, I'd bug proof myself first, then deal with heat thus:

Sponge your exposed skin with water. Relax and allow Mother Nature to
do Her thing. A simple small fan helps immensely. A couple ice cubes in
a wash cloth on your forehead will make you a Believer.

The science: You're on a boat so you have water. Most boats have ice.
Evaporating water cools the surface it is on.

The above time proven BYT, before A/C. KISS.

Aye.
PS: Kindly inform your son it's going to get worse.
 
Put in RV A/C on the roof get yourself a small genset and be done or use the 5000 btu wall-mart special and put it in the front window we've done both methods and the RV A/C is the best I should have done this 10 years ago when I bought the boat
although it takes a bigger genset 2000 watt vs a 1000 watt for window A/C
We live in SW Florida and it gets mighty hot and Humid down here so anytime we camp out AC is a must Good Luck in your decision
JIm
 
jennykatz":1huxv2na said:
Put in RV A/C on the roof get yourself a small genset and be done or use the 5000 btu wall-mart special and put it in the front window we've done both methods and the RV A/C is the best I should have done this 10 years ago when I bought the boat
although it takes a bigger genset 2000 watt vs a 1000 watt for window A/C
We live in SW Florida and it gets mighty hot and Humid down here so anytime we camp out AC is a must Good Luck in your decision
JIm
Click to expand...

I have a 2,200 watt portable generator. I've been thinking about the window unit. Where do you put the genny? I'm worried about CO. I could put it in the splash well or on the swim step, but still CO is a concern. One problem is during the summer here, as you know in FL is that we get showers a lot during the summer, eve throughout the night, which would make the generator use problematic anyway.
 
Foggy":1etf0c19 said:
Curtains and screens only restrict air flow and increase perceived heat.
Realize, heat is one thing and bugs are another.

If I had my drothers, I'd bug proof myself first, then deal with heat thus:

Sponge your exposed skin with water. Relax and allow Mother Nature to
do Her thing. A simple small fan helps immensely. A couple ice cubes in
a wash cloth on your forehead will make you a Believer.

The science: You're on a boat so you have water. Most boats have ice.
Evaporating water cools the surface it is on.

The above time proven BYT, before A/C. KISS.
Click to expand...
I agree with you on the bugs. Still have PTSD from sleeping aboard our small sailboat 10 years ago. I swear I still hear buzzing when I close my eyes on any boat, lol.

We're in salt water, not a fan of salt water baths. Could use the fresh water from the tank. I think we'll maximize ventilation and get some fans.

Aye.
PS: Kindly inform your son it's going to get worse.
 
Unfortunately in high humidity areas the Evaporative cooling method only makes it more humid....

As for the generator and CO. This is always a major concern. On the 22's we have put the generator on the swim step--on top of a plastic "milk" crate--both the crate and generator strapped with Bungee cords. On our 25, I have mounted it above the splash well, with generator exhaust pointed aft. It is on 3/4" thick Starboard, mounded on neoprene mounts, with bolts going directly into the generator. The Starboard is mounted with another piece of Starboard on a 1" SS tubing which goes across the splash well. The tubing, also keeps 2 gallon spare gas cans in place. The generator is " theft proof", since the starboard is bolted down at its forward edge. I also have a vinyl "Shelter Rite" cover for it.

As for the CO, I have 3 CO monitors in the boat. One at the same level as both of our heads, and one at the level of the helm persons's head. These have digital readouts, so we can check the levels. I have had more problems with other boat's exhaust than I have had with our generator. We tend to use the generator when at anchor, and usually the wind blows any exhaust aft, and clear of the boat.

I didn't mention our "second fan"--it is a Ryobi portable fan, and we use it either in the forward hatch, or elsewhere on the boat, if needed for cooling. It gets over 8 hours on the large batteries, and charges with a 30 minute charger, either from the inverter when the outboard is running, or generator /shore power. There is also a 12 volt charger available.

As to the light--Yes, I use the fan light as my primary reading light. All of my boat's lights have been converted to LED. I also have a complete system of only red LED's which I can switch on from the bunk for night time use. There is also a set of 3 red LED's in the cockpit. Each of the forward overhead lights has both red and white LED's, and two brightness levels.
 
Brandon,
We just completed a one-way ICW transit from JAX to Waca Weeche marina near Myrtle Beach, SC. Eileen read your post and said ‘oh my, how did he ever stand the heat?”

We found Charleston’s Harborage Marina very nice and the AC worked well.

We have two Honda 2000IU gensets for home hurricane prep, but to date would not use them on the engine bracket or elsewhere on the boat due to noise, vibration, heat, exhaust smell and CO worries despite a Marine CO and Lowes CO detector in our cabin. Maybe we will evolve on this issue, as Bob and many others have had great success using one.

Regarding screens, we recently had all four TomCat screens professionally re-done with no-see-um screen for under $100. A few weeks in the upper Everglades surrounded by mangroves and no see ums…worth it.

Regarding an aft door screen, the ‘as seen on TV’ magnet screens secured by Velcro tape on the sides of the aft door work fine, a $15 per year item.
Buy the $20 version for better magnets and better Velcro.

Regarding a front opening window screen, roll your own from ‘no see um’ screen with Velcro tape on the window sides and staple/glue Velcro on the screen. Expect 1-3 seasons from it. About $8.
Regarding 12v fans, ditto Caframo 747 for Capt and Nav seat. 5,000h motor, 5 yr warranty, point it anywhere, soft plastic blades stop rather than penetrating my head every time I do that.
Regarding large 12v fans, ditto Ventastic (we have three for the transom ‘wall of fans’).

Regarding a window AC, I regard our install of the LG 6kBTU a success (see my post), for $100 more than the well-tested and well regarded WM Artic Air you get 1,000 extra BTU for 260 rather than 150 CF, a remote control and the exact same wgt as the Artic Air (all other 6k units I researched were 56# and up rather than the 39# of the Artic Air). A bit tricky insulating the window without blocking an outflow vent very close to the enclosure , but a ridged Walmart pool noodle does well.

Regarding sunbrella window coverings, ditto substituting window frame screws for snaps and just using Velcro tape to secure the roll (as small as 1 inch with two rolling) rather than wood trim ‘housing’. She Who Must Be Obeyed was fine with this (surprised me). We leave the Velcro on the mouse fur, hilarious but we never misplace it.

Good luck and safe travels,
John
 
John saw your other post Sorry your Coleman called it quits in the middle of Summer . Dr. Bob is right cut with a Dremel.

John you did get 10 years out of the AC unit that's pretty good I'm hoping for the same by then I might sell the boat Take care Jim
 
I cannot imagine using Sunbrella for window coverings as they transmit zero light. Our C-Dory came with snap-on window coverings made by Proctor Canvas in Duluth MN. I don't know the name of the fabric, but they are a light cream color and are translucent, so that one gets shade without total darkness. And they are very durable. I numbered each one of them to clock positions to facilitate their repeated placement. When we got the boat, because we normally anchor privately, we thought we would have no use for the coverings. But we have since learned they are invaluable to keep out, especially late day, sunshine.
 
You are right about sunbrella not letting in light. We only put up our reflective white covered curtains on the sun side so we can leave the shaded windows open. I really like the idea of a sunbrella tarp stretched between the brow and the front pulpit to shade the front deck. We will set one up before we go back down to Baja this winter.
 
thataway":o939m8y2 said:
On the 22's we have put the generator on the swim step--on top of a plastic "milk" crate--both the crate and generator strapped with Bungee cords. On our 25, I have mounted it above the splash well, with generator exhaust pointed aft. It is on 3/4" thick Starboard, mounded on neoprene mounts, with bolts going directly into the generator. The Starboard is mounted with another piece of Starboard on a 1" SS tubing which goes across the splash well. The tubing, also keeps 2 gallon spare gas cans in place. The generator is " theft proof", since the starboard is bolted down at its forward edge. I also have a vinyl "Shelter Rite" cover for it.
Click to expand...
Bob, do you have a photo of the setups you are describing?
 
I am including a photo of the cover for the foredeck which came with the boat--it is a white sunbrella. We made a second one out of Shelter Rite, which is a PVC with Scrim, very similar to what the tubes of inflatables are made of. It is larger and totally water resistant. This photo shows the cover on the boat before we bought it, and is in the upper position. The lower position goes to the eye bolts by the base of the bow pulpit and bow cleat. Our cover goes slightly further forward, out to the sides and down on the sides to give better protection if there is driving rain.

1200p_highside.sized.jpg

Here is a plastic crate I put on the Swim Step of the 25 just for illustration: The Honda EU 1000 would go on top of this, with a bungee cored thru the handle, over the generator, and into the sides of the crate. The crate would be lashed to the swim step, so it could not slip off. This gets the exhaust up and away from the boat.

IMG_0980_2.sized.jpg

Here is the Honda EU 2200 I (under cover):

IMG_0982_5.sized.jpg

And another from a lower angle--I see that the heat during our absence warped the Starboard. I'll bolt a stongback of 3/4" Starboard or PVC lumber to straighter this out. No functional negative however. The uprights are notched on the mating surface with a Fein Saw under cuts, same on the top material, held together with G Flex epoxy and 2" flat head SS screws into the black Starboard.
The cable leading off the generator is one of the "kryptonite" locks, just as a security back up...

IMG_0983.sized.jpg

We are currently under our first tropical storm of the season--with some heavy thundershowers, so I didn't take the slant back off, nor the cover of the Honda. The exhaust points aft, Start and controls are on the Starboard side of the generator. I made a power cord, which is just the length from the generator to the 30 amp input of the boat's 110 V electrical system out of #12 gauge wire.
 
Thanks Bob for the photo of the forward "tarp", I am going to add handles on top of the brow and can add loops to the through bolts underneath to tie it to.
We have 220 watts of flexible solar on the cabin top and I have another 150 to extend back from the arch as needed, hopefully that will work to maintain the charge on the 31s to run the boat without having to use our Honda 2000. We removed the mermaid ac that came with the boat as we usually leave Mexico by late April. We mostly are running our new more efficient fridge and a small Engel freezer. We are almost always anchored out. We decided to install a small Spectra Ventura watermaker as we no longer want to lug water or have the increased weight of another storage tank, 1 hour a day running at anchor should fufill our old school needs.
Thanks again.
 
In heat, the antidote to froth is calm. Getting worked up
simply adds heat.

Let me repeat: A couple ice cubes in a wash cloth
on your forehead will make you a Believer.

Boaters who cannot stand (temporary) heat reminds me
of campers who cannot stand bugs.

Sea water temps rarely exceed 80+ *F or so. W coast a bit
cooler than E coast, on average. Normal body temp is less
than 90*F. Do the math. Take a plunge and cool down.

Aye.
 
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