installin winlass - stymed already

H

hank schneider

New member
Hi Folks
I'm working on an 06 Cape Cruiser 23 and trying to add a Profish 1000.

Problem 1
The current setup has a covered stainless steel oval on the deck that opens into the rhode compartment. It is pretty firmly attached with some type of glue - it is white. Any suggestions about how to extract the stainless fitting without tearing stuff up? Mounting it in front or behind doesn't look too good - it is exactly where the hole should be.

Problem 2
The oval hole is larger than the 3" hole required for the winlass and the unit will not cover it. The deck is flat so I can use a mounting plate. Suggestions about material - I'm in the mountains and don't have easy access to marine materials. What type of stuff would be used to bond/seal the plate. The unit is bolted through so the mounting it would not be for structure.

Question
The cable size is 4 up to 53 feet - would it be wise to go up to 2 anyway?
Thanks
Hank
 
Patty here. Well, I worked a long time on getting our windlass cover off the bow. It, too, was attached with white glue---I determined it was probably 5200 which is like concrete!!!! I used a box cutter-type knife (with a razor blade cutting edge) and gently worked a section free enough to put a small crowbar underneath. Then it pretty easily came off with no damage to the bow. Good luck. I think Dreamer put a new plate over his windlass hole to accept his new windlass. Check out his album.
 
Right you are, Patty!

I used StarBoard from West Marine. They can ship a small piece. I used it to cover a hole left by a Sprint 600 vertical windlass and installing a horizontal Pro-Fish 700. The round cap is for an raw water wash down for the rode.
P1010083.sized.jpg
The suggested cable gauge is for the total length of the run. I don't see any reason to go bigger than reccomended.
 
This may be 5200 or it may be "bostic sealant". Either way, a hot wire (wire guitar string) can be worked under the fitting and will cut the sealant. Put wooden 1" dowels or other wood to make handles to cut the sealant. If it is 5200, then also "debond" will work under the sealant and realease it.

Starboard is a good solution, but remember than sealants and glues do not bond well with it. You have other options--such as an aluminum plate, solid wood or marine grade plywood, (sealed with epoxy). You will also want a back up plate under the windlass.

In our C Dory 25, we just left the hause pipe in place and put the windlass in the middle. Apparently C Dory goofed when building our Tom Cat and put in a hause pipe, then removed it and put in a plug of some sort. You can see where the "patch was made. You can fill the hole to the dimensions of the hole cutout for the windlass fairly easily with wood, and epoxy filler, cover the top and bottom with a couple of layers of glass and epoxy, and fair it.

Be sure and seal the edges of the hole in the deck with epoxy. Most likely C Dory just smeared some sealant on the edges of the hole, and this is not adequate. Also all of the holes you drill in the deck need to be sealed with epoxy also. This prevents water getting into the core of the deck. It may not cause a problem this year--but down the line at some point is likely to.
 
from th screw discussion
I'm ordering

bonding filler (Marinetex)
bedding compound (5200)
what is the best way to seal the side of the side of the new hole and the bolts
thanks hank
 
I've got a really neat tool for removing 5200 and other sealants. It belonged to my granddad so it's at least 60 years old so I don't know if anything similiar is still made. It's and electric scraper. It looks like a paint sraper/putty knife with and electric cord attached. It heats up like a soldering iron and was really made to remove paint but works great for removing sealants. Heating the blade of a stiff putty knife wold do the same thing.
 
Please, one word of caution. Starboard is not a structural material. The mfg specifically recommends that it not be used in any installation where it would support a critical load. I can think of no more critical load than supporting a windlass, especially when you're trying to set your anchor or pull it in. Remember it's polyethylene plastic.

As Bob mentions, plywood or aluminum are alternatives, and both will provide structural strength. If you use aluminum, remember to isolate it from the stainless, so it doesn't corrode.

Also tie off the anchor rode after the anchor is set.

Boris
 
I've got some help coming this afternoon to wire the thing - I'm going to mount it with 1/2 " eastern cedar as plates inside and out - with the thickness of the deck that should work for my fishing trip coming up in 10 days - I'll redo it if there are any problems.

This
 
journey on":2yf1n1qo said:
Please, one word of caution. Starboard is not a structural material. The mfg specifically recommends that it not be used in any installation where it would support a critical load. I can think of no more critical load than supporting a windlass, especially when you're trying to set your anchor or pull it in. Remember it's polyethylene plastic.

As Bob mentions, plywood or aluminum are alternatives, and both will provide structural strength. If you use aluminum, remember to isolate it from the stainless, so it doesn't corrode.

Also tie off the anchor rode after the anchor is set.

Boris
Click to expand...

Although some may be using the HDPE Starboard as more of a filler than a structural member,

with the problems of protecting wood from water, grain splitting, rotting, and plywood delamination,

and,

the problems with corrosion with aluminum and it's alloys (unless anodized),

and,

the difficulty, cost, and weight in working with stainless plate,

it sounds like we have a need for a tough composite inert material like

Micarta, the tough stuff they make all kinds of circuit boards, electrical, aerospace, scientific, heavy equiipment, and other tough things out of.

Probably a Micarta made of epoxy resins and fiberglass would be adequate in 5/16-1/2" thickness, but one could also go to a fiber core of kevlar or carbon fiber if needed.

It's easy to work with too! Cuts, drills, and machines easily with good machine shop tools.

MicartaBoard.jpg


mvc-032sb437-1.jpg


Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Boris,

Thanks for pointing out the limitations of StarBoard. In the example shown on Dreamer, all three Windlass mounting bolts go through the foredeck and the StarBoard. It is primarily used to cover the large hole left by the vertical Windlass.
Roger, Dreamer
 
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