Wandering Sagebrush
Free Range Human
Has anyone ever tried the Mil H5606 hydraulic fluid in their steering? It's about 1/4 the price of the SeaStar hydraulic fluid, and is on the list of approved substitutes.
Hydraulic Fluid for Seastar/Baystar
- Thread starter Wandering Sagebrush
- Start date
journey on
New member
I've uses Mil-H-5606 for years. Actually it's the same fluid that SeaStar uses. I've mentioned it a couple of times, but no one seems interested (except you.)
When I got Journey On, both Mil spec and SeaStar were red, then SeaStar started selling a version of MIL-H-5606 without the dye. The military uses the dye to spot leaks. SeaStar doesn't use dye so they can charge more.
I've had a SeaStar hydraulic system now for 10 years and it's never leaked. Except out of the breather hole when I've overfilled it, due to change from cold to hot weather. So, if a SeaStar steering leaks, I'd find the source of the leak and fix it. If you don't, it's a long walk home.
Mil-H-83282 is the replacement for Mil-H-5606. It's fire retardant, among other improvement. Haven't needed any yet. A gallon of Mil-H-5606 has lasted for years and costs the same as a quart of SeaStar fluid. I use a small Motive Products pressure bleeder to bleed the system.
Boris
When I got Journey On, both Mil spec and SeaStar were red, then SeaStar started selling a version of MIL-H-5606 without the dye. The military uses the dye to spot leaks. SeaStar doesn't use dye so they can charge more.
I've had a SeaStar hydraulic system now for 10 years and it's never leaked. Except out of the breather hole when I've overfilled it, due to change from cold to hot weather. So, if a SeaStar steering leaks, I'd find the source of the leak and fix it. If you don't, it's a long walk home.
Mil-H-83282 is the replacement for Mil-H-5606. It's fire retardant, among other improvement. Haven't needed any yet. A gallon of Mil-H-5606 has lasted for years and costs the same as a quart of SeaStar fluid. I use a small Motive Products pressure bleeder to bleed the system.
Boris
Good tip on the Mil-H-5606 hydraulic fluid. Good to have some on hand. In some places it is not so easy to obtain. Fortunately, when I had a leak develop, I was with George on KerriOn, and he, being a well planning and experienced mariner, had the experience to know what I needed and needed to do.
Thanks to George and to the "Sinbad" skipper who had a spare bottle in his stock. Saved me a trip from Pierre's Echo Bay lodge to Port McNiel, which would have been at least a full day, or an day and over night, depending on the timing.
There was a leak, and it was do to a loose nut. Since that has been addressed, the leak has stopped, but the bottle of SeaStar fluid is still on board.
Good to know about the Mil-H-5606 and teh coloring and cost.
Thanks Boris.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Thanks to George and to the "Sinbad" skipper who had a spare bottle in his stock. Saved me a trip from Pierre's Echo Bay lodge to Port McNiel, which would have been at least a full day, or an day and over night, depending on the timing.
There was a leak, and it was do to a loose nut. Since that has been addressed, the leak has stopped, but the bottle of SeaStar fluid is still on board.
Good to know about the Mil-H-5606 and teh coloring and cost.
Thanks Boris.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Wandering Sagebrush
Free Range Human
journey on":rihubs9f said:
Boris, thanks for the tip on the bleeder. That makes things a lot easier and cleaner than turning the helm.
I believe I paid a bit over $30 for a gallon of 5606. Compared to $28.98 for a quart of SeaStar, I don't know why folks aren't jumping on it. We have a small airport nearby, so I just stopped at one of the maintenance companies and bought from them.
journey on
New member
Here's the procedure I used for bleeding Journey On's SeaStar, in excruciating detail. Actually it's not as hard as it sounds. Easier than bleeding brakes. OK, exactly the same as bleeding brakes.
Motive products Bleeder Model 0160
SeaStar filler kit. This includes a filler cap.
1. Attach filler cap to pressure line of the bleeder, securely.
2. Screw filler cap into helm pump.
3. Fill bleeder container with ~1/2 gallon of hydraulic oil.
4. At the outboard motor actuator, there are 2 ea bleed ports, covered with caps. Clean the caps/ports and remove caps. Attach a 2-3’ piece of plastic hose over the bleeder port outlets and lead them into the hydraulic oil can, which should be ½ full. You used the other ½ for the bleeder container.
5. Pump the bleeder until you get ~10 psi on the gauge.
6. Crank the motor hard over. The chrome actuator rod will stick out one side. Open the bleed valve, counterclockwise, and watch the fluid go through the hose into the can. You’re bleeding that side, because it has the smallest hydraulic cylinder volume. The piston is jammed up against the cylinder end. This gives you the best chance of removing air.
7. When almost all of the oil in the bleeder is used, shut off the bleed valve. If air is still coming out, transfer the contents of the catch can back into the bleeder and do it again. When no air comes out the bleed tuba on the actuator, you’re done.
8. Crank the engine over to the other side and bleed that side of the actuator.
9. Remove the pressure from the bleeder, remove the fill cap, re-install the bleeder caps and you’re through bleeding.
10. Using one of the bleed hoses, remove the excess oil from the helm pump/reservoir. Remove enough so you can start to see the pump. If it’s cold when you bleed, the oil will expand as it gets hot. If it’s how, the oil will contract when it gets cold. So check the level once in a while. If it gets too hot the oil will leak out through the cap vent so put some paper towels under the pump, for a while.
Boris
Motive products Bleeder Model 0160
SeaStar filler kit. This includes a filler cap.
1. Attach filler cap to pressure line of the bleeder, securely.
2. Screw filler cap into helm pump.
3. Fill bleeder container with ~1/2 gallon of hydraulic oil.
4. At the outboard motor actuator, there are 2 ea bleed ports, covered with caps. Clean the caps/ports and remove caps. Attach a 2-3’ piece of plastic hose over the bleeder port outlets and lead them into the hydraulic oil can, which should be ½ full. You used the other ½ for the bleeder container.
5. Pump the bleeder until you get ~10 psi on the gauge.
6. Crank the motor hard over. The chrome actuator rod will stick out one side. Open the bleed valve, counterclockwise, and watch the fluid go through the hose into the can. You’re bleeding that side, because it has the smallest hydraulic cylinder volume. The piston is jammed up against the cylinder end. This gives you the best chance of removing air.
7. When almost all of the oil in the bleeder is used, shut off the bleed valve. If air is still coming out, transfer the contents of the catch can back into the bleeder and do it again. When no air comes out the bleed tuba on the actuator, you’re done.
8. Crank the engine over to the other side and bleed that side of the actuator.
9. Remove the pressure from the bleeder, remove the fill cap, re-install the bleeder caps and you’re through bleeding.
10. Using one of the bleed hoses, remove the excess oil from the helm pump/reservoir. Remove enough so you can start to see the pump. If it’s cold when you bleed, the oil will expand as it gets hot. If it’s how, the oil will contract when it gets cold. So check the level once in a while. If it gets too hot the oil will leak out through the cap vent so put some paper towels under the pump, for a while.
Boris
After developing a leak a couple of summers ago, I find it a good practice to care a spare bottle of the fluid of your choice with you on the boat, especially if you are going into remote cruising areas.
Just because it never leaked, doesn't mean it will never.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
Just because it never leaked, doesn't mean it will never.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
colbysmith
Active member
When I put my autopilot in before last summer, I went to Aeroshell #41, which was available at our local airport's FBO for a lot lower in price than the Seastar fluid. It's also listed as an acceptable fluid by the hydraulic steering manufacturer. I've had no problems with it. And as pointed out, you can see any leaks easily. (I do get a little seepage during the cold winter.) I've had no problem with it staining the splash well. Colby
About a month ago, I ordered one gallon Phillips 66 X/C 5606A Aviation Hydaulic Fluid from Amazon. Cost was about $31, plus shipping. I had the gallon in the shop within 5 days. Sure beat the West Marine price of $29 plus tax! (plus I didn't have to drive to West Marine, and make some stupid impulsive buy!.
Now I have plenty to share with my C Brat friends whose systems are low on fluid.
Now I have plenty to share with my C Brat friends whose systems are low on fluid.
Bob, Thanks for the tip. Is it OK to mix that fluid with the SeaStar fluid or would I need to have the Clear SeaStar fluid flushed out first?
And I have no doubt you would share some fluid with me if I ran into the same situation again, but we are about half a hemisphere away usually :lol:
Thank you for your generosity though.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
And I have no doubt you would share some fluid with me if I ran into the same situation again, but we are about half a hemisphere away usually :lol:
Thank you for your generosity though.
Harvey
SleepyC :moon
I just bled my system and used the Sea star fluids but maybe having a red dye in would be beneficial to see if any of the seals were leaking The price seems right . this is the third time in 12 years bleeding this system
A few friends of mine have the World Cats and it seems their hydraulic systems go out and have to bleed more frequently ?
A few friends of mine have the World Cats and it seems their hydraulic systems go out and have to bleed more frequently ?
colbysmith
Active member
If you have a small airport near by with a fixed base operator, check with their maintenance department. I think the Aeroshell was around $20 for a gallon can. (I poured the can into a cleaned out plastic kerosene container and marked it appropriately.) I just remember I paid less for it, than the small quart of Sea Star fluid. Colby
colbysmith
Active member
I didn't purge mine, when I added the Aeroshell, and everything has been working fine. Colby
I don't mind paying the extra at West Marine...they are local, I get the stuff when I need it....and when my radar gave me trouble they replaced the entire unit...dome, C80 and all the parts...free... it was four years old..it was analog and the new unit was digital (why they replaced everything) AND they were nice about it.... It always went out just when I went into a fog bank.
Joel
SEA3PO
Joel
SEA3PO
journey on
New member
SeaStar hydraulic fluid IS Mil-H-5606 without the dye. If you mix the 2, you are mixing Mil-H-5606 with Mil-H-5606.
Mil-H-83282 is the replacement for Mil-H-5606, which means they are compatible. Since Mil-H-83282 is non-flammable, it would not hurt to purge the Mil-H-5606 to give you more safety, but not necessary.
I cannot buy Mil-H-5606 anymore, but you can probably special order it somewhere.
Boris
Mil-H-83282 is the replacement for Mil-H-5606, which means they are compatible. Since Mil-H-83282 is non-flammable, it would not hurt to purge the Mil-H-5606 to give you more safety, but not necessary.
I cannot buy Mil-H-5606 anymore, but you can probably special order it somewhere.
Boris
