hull thickness

S

ssobol

Active member
Anyone have any idea how thick the hull sides are near the bow? I may want to attach some things to the inside of the hull in the bow compartments. This might require some screws and I don't want to drive them through the hull.

Thanks.
 
I think that we've read so many horror stories about core intrusion, that we all try to avoid drilling holes in the hull whenever possible.

My strategy is to glue a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood to the hull with 3M 5200 and drive screws into that.

jd
 
nimrod":5ebb4ydw said:
I think that we've read so many horror stories about core intrusion, that we all try to avoid drilling holes in the hull whenever possible.

My strategy is to glue a piece of 1/2" or 3/4" plywood to the hull with 3M 5200 and drive screws into that.

jd
Click to expand...

That's what I intend to do. But I was thinking I might need a few screws to hold the wood strip in place while the 5200 sets. You can't really clamp it in place. I could come up with some sort of bracing to hold the strip while the 5200 sets, but because of the shape of the surfaces involved it might be difficult.
 
Another screwless option would be to use 5200 to adhere most of the block of wood, but in one smaller spot (maybe the center) use 5-minute epoxy. That way you can just hold it in place for 5 minutes until the epoxy sets, and then wait whatever time is necessary for the 5200 to set.

Rob
 
I agree the hull is not cored in the sides, but it is too thin to put screws into. We use hot glue to hold the wood in place until 5200 or epoxy sets up. The Hot glue works very well.

I have put some short screws into the place in the overhead, where the deck makes the turn into the sides--there is enough glass there.
 
I find that a hot glue gun and just a drop of glue at each corner holds whatever I'm securing with 5200/4200 while the adhesive cures. I really really try to avoid drilling holes in the boat.
 
As mentioned, the bow area (excluding the deck) isn't cored. So not only is it probably not super thick, but I don't find that "screwing into" fiberglass (i.e. with pointy screws) is ever all that great. If there is plenty of material, I'll drill and tap.

So in the bow topsides or hull, I would not attach with fasteners at all (I would think it was too thin to drill and tap).
 
I no longer attempt to screw or glue anything, I use 3m double sided adhesive tape, strips or pads. The stuff is amazing and comes in a lot of styles for different applications. It has held 2 solar panels to my roof for 5 years and a heavy brass clock in the cabin, along with all kinds of stuff. Easy to remove with Goo-Off or other solvent if you change your mind.
Roger

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/e ... 5815&rt=c3

Small quanities available on Ebay.
 
I have opted to not put screws into any of the walls, hull, or floor too. So far, 4200 quick set is pretty permanent. (Haven't been able to remove any of what I put in with it yet,) but really haven't tried. I also use the 3M double stick tape. Works great. I even used it to mount my hailer horn on the cabin roof, and it sticks, even when towing.

Advantage to non metalic fastening. NO Compass distraction.

Harvey
SleepyC:moon

January_2010_344.thumb.jpg
 
I too would not care to drill unnecessary holes in favor of 5200 and a block of wood or starboard.

I might suggest using a bit of Crazy Glue (cyanoacrylate) on the edges and spraying it with Zip Kick, or another cyanoacrylate accelerator. As soon as the Zip Kick hits the Crazy Glue it will be frozen in place. Although the resulting bond is fairly brittle, and not appropriate for use on a boat, it will hold the piece in place while the 5200 cures.
 
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