How much chain?

cemiii

New member
I have an older Lewmar 400 windlass on my 22 that works fine. I am changing my anchor from an 11# Lewmar claw to a 14# Delta plow. The Windlass restricts me to 1/4" G4 chain and 1/2"rode.

I read somewhere that 9' of chain is all that's really needed.

Somewhere else, I read that the length of the boat is preferred.

Elsewhere, I've heard there is substantial advantage to having a length of chain at least equivalent to the average depth of anchoring. Maybe 60', (as I mostly anchor 50' depth or less). In this instance I could see the advantage of the windlass breaking out the anchor with a solid bite on the chain. My concerns would be carrying the 60# of chain and anchor everywhere and, possibly, having to hand haul it in the event of a windlass failure. Mine does not have a manual ratchet on it.

Maybe I should deflate and carry my ball and ring for back-up?

Thoughts appreciated, Chris
 
I believe the general rule is a foot of chain for every foot of boat. I have 35 feet of chain for my 22. The chain is very helpful in keeping the anchor set, it helps cushion the whole setup when the water is rough (the weight acts as a kind of spring so the anchor and rode are not jerked by every movement.)
 
The Great Chain Debate. :wink: How much is "enough"? I have 50' of chain and 175' of rode with the same anchor you're gonna use, but for my 25. I went w/ my brother's advice on length of chain; more is better, for the reasons Barry noted. It lays on the bottom and really helps with holding power.

I now wish I had bought 250' of rode as that amount would have still fit in the locker.
 
More chain is better. I just doubled the amount of chain on my 22 from 20' to 40' -- and my life is so much more relaxed (and I pull my anchor chain by hand). With 20' of chain I found that both my 11# Bruce and my 13# Danforth were much more likely to drag -- which is a bad thing. So, while 10-20' of chain may work with some anchors and a lot of rode, in my experience a lot of chain will help.

I typically anchor in water that is deep, and not well protected. Dragging here in the Channel Islands means ending up on a rocky lee shore in a protected marine environment. And, since I would rather hike the Islands and dive the shoreline, staying on the boat guarding from anchor drag is not an option. Now I can leave the boat with some level of comfort that the boat will be there when I get back.

With a windlass you won't even feel the difference in weight -- and when you need the holding power, you'll really need it.

When you really, really, don't want your anchor to drag: :disgust
anacapa4.jpg
 
I think all C-Dories with factory windlasses & anchors come standard with 30' of chain and 200' of rode. Anyone know different?

Warren
 
For a CD22: (in general, and for most anchors, and anchoring situations, but there are endless variables, and situations)

9'' is asking for an "I told you so...."

15' is minimal and sometimes not enough

25' is better and usually workable

50' is a great safety margin and most all you'll really ever need

100' will usually be a bit awkward and the 74 lbs a bit too much to handle manually for many, but will lock you down to the bottom, and both the 50' and especially the 100', will allow you to use much less scope than is usually required.

I prefer the 100' in steep canyon reservoirs along with a muscular windlass. I have a Quick Aires 500 on my CD-22, an a Lewmar Horizon 1500 on my Sea Ray. The big one is truly dangerous in it's power output!

Chain is strong and secure. It inspires confidence.

Three strand twisted nylon anchor rope is great when you want some elastic spring, you like a long rode and scope, and you've got the room to use it.

It's nice to have plenty of both to choose between.

My 2¢. (Rather have that 2¢ than a share in Bernie's Ponzi scheme, at least!)

Joe. :lol:
 
I was only using about 8 ft of chain last year. We have never anchored up much until last year. As long as the wind was calm we could set the anchor and be just fine in the current. I even anchored in several rivers with current without a problem. Then last summer we were anchored in the san juans with a 20plus knot wind. The wind dragged us around a lot more then the currents ever did. We woke at night to find we had dragged about 200 yards in a crowded bay. No idea why or how we did not hit anyone. Now I have 30 ft of chain. I have not used it yet but will feel a lot better about it.
 
I anchor in 150' of water moving at +/-4 mph. using 600' of double braid, 20' of 3/8" chain and a 22 lb. Bruce anchor. It holds the boat just fine. I actually took it off of my 22' and now use it on my 26'.
I pull it with a ring and buoy.
Wishing I had a windlass of some sort. Getting too old for this pisshanding line/chain/anchor.
 
Doryman":26motzju said:
I think all C-Dories with factory windlasses & anchors come standard with 30' of chain and 200' of rode. Anyone know different?

Warren

Our factory anchoring set-up came with 50' of chain, 200' of line, 22 pound Delta quickset anchor. I try to find reasonably shallow places to anchor, and generally use a 7:1 scope; 10:1 if the weather gives any indication of turning during the night. We use a danforth as a secondary anchor, and carry a 3rd smaller danforth to use off the stern to slow the swing (if necessary). When setting the anchor, I back slowly as the chain is paid out to keep it from fouling the anchor, then set with some reverse power. No problems to date.

Best wishes,
Jim B.
 
Right on Jim! 50' Chain, 250' 1/2" rode.

I keep my hand on the rode as Janet pulls it taut in reverse. You can feel the jerking if the anchor has not set. I was going to get a 100' length of chain until I checked the price. :shock: The 50' has always worked just fine with the 22# Delta Fast Set. 8)
 
Jack in Alaska":qtdzrokg said:
I anchor in 150' of water moving at +/-4 mph. using 600' of double braid, 20' of 3/8" chain and a 22 lb. Bruce anchor. It holds the boat just fine. I actually took it off of my 22' and now use it on my 26'.
I pull it with a ring and buoy.
Wishing I had a windlass of some sort. Getting too old for this pisshanding line/chain/anchor.

Jack- The benefits of pulling the rope, chain, and anchor by hand are many and will extend your living years and enhance your personal appearance, and you might not even need the T-shirt with the three wolves and moon to get the women swooning over you.

Witness:




































exercises-forearms.gif
"A WINDLASS IS A WIND UP TOY FOR WHIMPS, I SAY!"
 
I have 40' of chain and 200'+ of rode.
We do most of our cruising around the Channel Islands, so the bottom varies from sand to rock to kelp. I try to stay out of the kelp in order to preserve the kelp forest.
 
Thanks to everyone for the help on this. I went with 70' of G4. The reason was that the chain was not a whole lot more expensive than good rode and I had 180' of decent rode, so now I can get to 5:1 scope at 50'. I do hope I never have to hand haul this.

By the way, when my 14# Simpson/Lawrence Delta Quick Set came in, I grabbed it out of the packaging and noticed blood running down the anchor. Mine, of course. On examining it, almost every edge was as sharp as a knife. There was a China sticker on it and it was apparent the parts were stamp punched in some giant machine and quite jagged. It took a good electric sanding of all the edges to make the anchor reasonably safe to handle. Buying a good brand name no longer always ensures production quality control.

Chris
 
cemiii":4o0eidzk said:
(Some portion deleted for brevity.)

By the way, when my 14# Simpson/Lawrence Delta Quick Set came in, I grabbed it out of the packaging and noticed blood running down the anchor. Mine, of course. On examining it, almost every edge was as sharp as a knife. There was a China sticker on it and it was apparent the parts were stamp punched in some giant machine and quite jagged. It took a good electric sanding of all the edges to make the anchor reasonably safe to handle. Buying a good brand name no longer always ensures production quality control.

Chris

Chris-

Was the anchor galvanized, and did you sand through it?

If so, you may want to touch up the edges with an epoxy paint loaded up with zinc particles by the trade name "Instant Galvanize" to restore the protection to the steel of the anchor.

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
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