How Much Bottom Paint

T

toyman

New member
How much paint does it require to re-coat a 25'. Fan-C-Dory has ablative paint, not quiet ready for a re-coat - but after this summer it will be needed. Do you just re-coat over clean existing - this stuff is awful soft, seems like it would clog sand paper QUICKLY.
 
Hi Dave,

When I touch up or re-coat ablative paint, I go over it with a powerwasher (not too close or you'll take it all off) and then wipe it down. Roller on a coat, let it dry, repeat. Put the boat back in the water and go enjoy it. Not fun work, but not too technical.

Wild Blue is going to be due for a scrub down (she's been in the water at our dock just over two months now). I'm a wuss when it comes to cold water - the water temp here is around 60º right now. When it warms up a bit, I'll run her to some shallow water, put on the wetsuit, and get out the scrub brush. That's generally all it takes to keep the bottom clean.

We use the Micron CSC Extra, because it stays effective when put on the trailer for a while.

Best wishes,
Jim
 
To answer your other question, for a complete coat, just over a gallon. That'll allow complete coverage. For a single coat retouch, less than a gallon.

Bottom paint will keep from season to season, if you seal the can tightly and turn it upside down.

Boris
 
I just sanded every square inch of Napoleon below the waterline in preparation for a complete repaint. Ugh...but I guarantee it's the best hull prep this vessel has ever seen. (Original dealer did a horrible job).

I did not remove all the paint except for over the Armstrong bracket where I will apply an Aluminum friendly epoxy primer before bottom paint. The paint that remains has adhered well to the hull. Once I can get a day above 55 degrees I will start applying the fresh paint. I will be trying Pettit Vivid for the first time based on recommendations I have read here and from speaking to reps at Pettit.

I prefer hard paints over ablative considering the Tomcat cruising speeds. The consensus for the Tomcat was a gallon to get two coats, I suspect the C25 would require a bit more for two coats. We'll see how well these estimates were once I'm done.

It's that time of year!
 
journey on":ybfcscdt said:
To answer your other question, for a complete coat, just over a gallon. That'll allow complete coverage. For a single coat retouch, less than a gallon.

Bottom paint will keep from season to season, if you seal the can tightly and turn it upside down.

Boris
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Comments:

1 gallon will do a 22, with a little less than a quart left over, depending on how you apply it.

Sealing the can and turning it over will indeed keep the paint for quite a while. Of course a skin will form next to the air in the can, and the paint will settle out some.

Don't store the upside down can in a hot area, like my RV Barn in Redding, where the summer temperature can hit 115 plus, or you may find you have a "barnacle free zone" on your concrete floor. :shock:

After a few days, it becomes a rather "tacky" situation! :smileo

Don't ask me how I know, or what else it glued down to the floor in the process :roll:

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Just finished putting two coats on the Tomcat (Micron CSC). The total amount of paint required was 5 quarts with just a little bit left over.

This included painting the Armstrong bracket. I have four coats of epoxy on the bracket between the paint and the aluminum.
 
journey on":25wxhuqx said:
Bottom paint will keep from season to season, if you seal the can tightly and turn it upside down.
Click to expand...

Is storing upside down recommended for regular household wall paints as well, or is this just for bottom paints?

Thanks,

Rob
 
That helps on anything liquid. I stops ANY air leakage from a poor seal. I use it on glues, paints, liquid elect. tape etc, etc. A container with a pop-on top will blow the top (or leak)- stored in a hot garage though (see above !).
 
Instead of turning the paint can upside down and still exposing the paint to the air inside the can, I buy a case of mason jars at the store or Walmart. FILL the jar with paint to the top and screw down the lid with rubber seal. I write on the top with a felt pen to identify the paint and purpose to remind me later what it is.

Pints work best for small amounts for touch up.

TomTom[/b]
 
For some finish products (I have done this on paints and varnishes)--a number of breaths into the can will increase the CO2 content, and deminished oxygen--less likely to skim over.

For sealants and glues, I put them in the freezer (OK--Marie gave me a very small area, since she realizes that I will take some anyway!)
 
thataway":1tu0smv5 said:
For some finish products (I have done this on paints and varnishes)--a number of breaths into the can will increase the CO2 content, and deminished oxygen--
Click to expand...

OMG! Our favorite Dr. is "huffing paint"... :shock: .....Just teasing you a bit Dr. Bob, and I'm certain that your method includes a caveat that this method of inducing CO2 should be done with due caution. ie: don't inhale the paint fumes in between the breath exhalations.
 
Yea, I wondered if anyone would think about that. You take the big breath a long way from the paint can, and then blow it into the can, cover with the lid.

Bottom painting is always huffing paint! Just keeping it out of your eyes! The new paints are mild in comparison to what was used in the 40's--Cape Cod Compound. Lots of Copper and Aresnic.
 
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