How do you run shore power on a boat without shore power?

S

Sarge

New member
This is a topic most likely for owners of CD22s and smaller.

My CD25 had factory installed shore power, my new boat doesn't. I've attended a few CBGTs in which CD22s were hooked up to shore power. I'm wondering why and how people used the shore power.

I realize this is not rocket science, but I'm curious.

1. How did you run the power to your boat?

2. Did you use a trickle charger while docked? (not long term, just attending a CBGT or visiting a marina). Did you feel you needed to charge the battery?

3. Did you use it to run a heater or fan in the boat?

4. Any other uses (entertainment, cooking, etc.)?

5. Does running shore power in this way still affect galvanization like factory built in shore power does? (If anyone can explain this, it would be appreciated).

Thanks in advance,

-Sarge
 
Sarge,

I have on occasion run suitable extension over to dock power so I could plug the battery charger in, and on occasion have run the extension to a lamp. Nothing more. To be truthful, I don't know if there is an electrolysis issue here, and I would love to hear from someone who does know.

Good topic, thanks for posting!

Steve
 
We followed this post:

http://www.c-brats.com/viewtopic.php?t= ... power+gfci


We have multiple gfci power strips mounted under the sink. One of the gfci's is plugged into the invertor and the other gfci is plugged into the shore power (via a charger inlet mounted in the cockpit and 15amp shorepower cord and 30amp to 15amp converter plugged into shore). Our 30amp Guest battery charger is plugged into the "shore power" gfci and automatically kicks in when we plug into the shore (of course). Also, we unplug the "invertor" gfci and plug it into the shore power gfci when we have shore power - then the computer, monitor, etc is powered by the shore instead of the invertor.

Hopefully this makes sense.
 
Yup, what Robert said. I used the same system that Sneaks et al developed. Works great! Check out Sneaks album. It's simple but effective.
 
My 22 (now Center Island's 22) had shore power installed at the factory. I used it all the time since it was convenient and easy to hook up. The primary uses were (in order of use and importance to me):
1) To run the chargers - my batteries were always fully charged. I left it hooked up while on the trailer in the driveway. Keeping a full charge on the batteries at all times can help extend battery life. Also for long stays in the marina, knowing that the batteries and hence bilge pumps had an endless supply of power was comforting.
2) To run a small electric heater. I used the electric heater to keep myself warm when I was at a marina and I always had it on a very low setting while the boat was either moored or in my driveway. Keeping the ambient air inside the boat a little warmer than the outside keeps the boat dry and fairly free of mold/mildew.
3) I had a fridge in the boat. With shore power, I just leave it on. In the summer, I kept the fridge stocked with drinks. It was always ready to hit the water that way. The night before a trip, I'd load the fridge with other food items as needed.
4) My hand held VHF has a rechargeable battery. I'd leave it plugged in and inside the boat - it was always charged and always ready.
5) Whenever I had to work on the boat, the outlets were handy for power tools and for the vacuum cleaner. Sure, I could run an extension cord for that but when it's raining etc, it's easier to just have things hooked up.
6) When I caught fish, I would hook up a vacuum packer and package the fish on the boat. It was very convenient to be able to do this on the boat where a little fish blood and scales were already needing to be cleaned up.
7) On rare occasions, I used it to cook in a small crockpot. But the little crockpot I have only draws 75W so I could run that off an inverter while I was on the water.

I think that a good shore power system on a 22 is highly under rated by those who don't have one. Installing one is worth every penny in my mind.
 
I also did the same as Sneaks, I run a Promariner battery charger, and since the boat is left unattended for months on end, I just have an extension cord from the house to keep the batteries charged and also have one of the WM dehumidifier running all winter. With plug wire and charger system probably $200 to put it together.
 
I have a shore power cord on SleepyC :moon that has a regular 110-120 inlet on the boat end and a 15 amp plug on the power supply end. (I am not sure of that 15 amp plug, it may be a 30. I just know it is the lighter one of what marinas usually have.) I run it into the boat through the wire access, starboard gunnel. It gets a surge suppressor power strip on the boat end and is used for:
1. My CPAP machine at night.
2. Electric heater if the temps are cold enough.
3. Charger for C-phone, or HH VHF etc.
4. Have run a crockpot a couple of times.
5. I have not used this system for onboard battery charging (as of now).

My thinking that since these items are completely separate from the boats wiring system, (batteries, charging system and electronics or outboards) that there is no increase in the galvanic corrosion generated. I too, would be happy to hear more on that issue.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon
 
Our 22 we only ran an extension cord. I would say it is that way, or do a full marine install. With an extension cord there is little chance of electrolysis--but keeping a car type battery charger constantly "on" when the boat is kept in the water full time would not be advisable. That could cause some electrolysis. The occasional use on land, or in a slip--should not be a problem.
 
My 22 came with factory shore power and I love it. Has a switch for charging each battery separately. I do not worry about anything when I get to shore, just plug and I am all set. The uses are:

1. Keep the boat cranking battery and house battery fully charged;
2. Run my CPAP;
3. Run my laptop;
4. Run a heater when it gets cold;
5. Run the coffee maker;
6. Run the cabin lights at night;
7. Charge the cell phone.
 
I installed shore power on the Kelly Lynn myself Fall 2010. I have a few pics. I can give you all the websites that I bought from for the most inexpensive products.

xantrex 1000w continuous inverter/converter
guest 2 bank charger
 
We leave to boat hooked up to our house's 120 volt via the boats shore power set up all winter long also, battery charger on, small heater running. The 120 volt outlets let me use power tools for making mods to the boat. Also when we anchor out we use a Honda EU 2000 generator and an adapter on our regular 30amp shore power cord plugged into our shore power connector to run battery charger, our 9000 btu air condioner, 120 volt outlets for a coffee pot etc, computer, wireless router, charge cell phones and camera batteries. We run a cpap machine off a small inverter working off one battery running an led all around light as not to have to run the generator all night if we are out hanging on the hook.
D.D.
 
I have a 30-foot #14 SJ black extension cord with a regular plug on one end and a weatherproof box with GFCI receptacle on the other. I prefer the GFCI for safety in damp locations. I have an adapter to hook up the regular plug to 30-amp twist lock installations where required in marinas. I also have a small 3-plug bar to add outlets on the receptacle end.

I use shore power for my Guest 6-amp battery charger, electric heater, tools, vacuum, and sometimes a trouble light when I'm working.

I do not believe there is any problem with corrosion as the AC-DC systems should not be interconnected in any way-- as long as nothing you are using is in conductive contact with seawater or bilge water. I would not use an automobile battery charger on the boat as I don't think they have the same marine requirement that the AC-DC sections are isolated from each other.
 
Everyone,

This is great information and I thank you all.

Seems to me from comments that as long as you're not connected to shorepower and a battery charging system then increased galvanization is not a factor.

Once you have the electricity, metal, water combo (a charging system that is hooked up to batteries which are hooked up to an outboard motor including the mounting bracket, which is sitting in the water) then galvanization becomes a greater concern.

Please note that I said "greater concern" and not a problem.

I'm still a little confused between electrolysis and galvanization - I see Dr. Bob stated electrolysis, but a previous boat of mine had a built in galvanic isolator attached to the shorepower to avoid corrosion, so I kind of "assumed" it was trying to prevent galvanization.

Again, thank you everyone and if you see that I've made a mistake in my comments above, please correct me.

thanks,

-Sarge
 
Sarge, the current issue of Salmon Trout Steelhead has an article about galvanization and aluminum boats. They mention a new technology that is supposed to be better than sacrificial zincs that you might be interested in called "imposed current cathodic protection". Google it and you will find a number of sources for further research.

The article also suggests that zincs should be scrubbed with a stainless steel wire brush that has never been used for any other purpose, every couple of months.

Warren
 
"The article also suggests that zincs should be scrubbed with a stainless steel wire brush that has never been used for any other purpose, every couple of months. "
Click to expand...
Does anybody know if that is an issue with other boats or is it only Aluminum ones?

Harvey
SleepyC:moon
 
Sarge made a very good point--and I often use the word "Electrolysis" to mean stray electronic current on a boat (A term my father who was an E E used). It is also used by some other knowledgable folks, but is actually incorrect.

Electrolysis is defined as: in Physical Chemistry a passage of an electric current thru an electrolyte with subsequent migration of charged ions to negative and positive electrodes.

or: destruction of hair roots, tumors etc by an electric current.

Theoretically physical chemistry electrolysis does occur in boats, but there should not be confusion between that and galvanic action.

Galvanic corrosion has to do with the fact that almost all metals (except gold) take on a slightly negative charge in respect to sea water. The amount of difference of this charge can lead to destruction of a metal which is less "noble" than another metal. (Galvanic scale) Generally titanium is the most noble, or least resistant to galvanic effect (also monel metal, 316 Stainless). (Platinum and Graphite are actually slightly positive in relation to sea water). The least noble (and most susceptible to destruction are aluminum, magnesium and zinc. Magnesium is used as an anode in fresh water, Zinc usually in sea water and are sacrificial to avoid damage to other metals such as aluminum, bronze or alloys of Stainless steel which may be bonded together in the boat. (Aluminum alloys are also fairly susceptible to galvanic effect--depending on the alloy, so they need to be protected--as in the legs and brackets of our outboards.)

This gets more complicated if AC or DC current is applied to the bonding system--either from some item in the boat (battery charger) or even leak to ground (this is where the galvanic isolator comes in on the boat's 110 V AC circuit). I have seen a damaged battery charger or alternator's regulator allow enough DC current to flow to a boats bonding system, that all under water metal was destroyed in a few days (prop, prop shaft, rudder shaft, thru hulls etc)

Another dangerous type of stray current is when one boat or even a dock has miss wired the 110 or 220 AC circuit and there now is 110 V Ac going directly to ground. This is dangerous to a swimmer or diver, or someone whose boat is bonded and that person touches the bonding cable.

There is also crevice corrosion--which is where oxygen is removed from the surface of an alloy (such as stainless steel or bronze) and corrosion occurs between the several different metals which make up that alloy of Stainless or bronze.

In any case--with an extension cord, and a frying pan or resistance heater will not cause any problems (you should have a ground fault interrupter in the circuit). But if you add in a battery charger, then there is the possibility that there will be some stray electrical current in the boat's bonding or ground system, and that could hasten consumption of zincs on the outboard bracket or some damage to the aluminum of the outboard bracket or leg if they were in the water.
 
Imposed current has been used for a long time in metal vessels--The capac system measures the differential voltage and then applies the apropiate amount of current from a platinum electrode to correct for that differential. These systems have been in use for a very long time and are very successful. However, not necessary for the outboards in our C Dories.
 
thataway":1ahl0q1h said:
Imposed current has been used for a long time in metal vessels--The capac system measures the differential voltage and then applies the apropiate amount of current from a platinum electrode to correct for that differential. These systems have been in use for a very long time and are very successful. However, not necessary for the outboards in our C Dories.
Click to expand...

Might be useful on Sarge's tin can boat, though -- right?

Warren
 
Dr. Bob,

Thanks for an excellent explanation. While digging around I found this really good explanation of the galvanic process by Boat US and it has pictures for people like me :-) : http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/galvanic/default.asp

Warren,

Thanks for the info on the imposed current systems. I did a Google search as you suggested and lo and behold, in the top 10 results was a link back to C-Brats! I could not find any particular product that would be suitable for a small boat. Further researched turned up this article about using imposed current systems on a small aluminum boat: http://www.kastenmarine.com/corrosion.htm It was not favorable because of the lack of monitoring required.

All excellent stuff and thank you.

-Sarge
 
Sarge":38vw2v11 said:
hanks for the info on the imposed current systems. I did a Google search as you suggested and lo and behold, in the top 10 results was a link back to C-Brats! I could not find any particular product that would be suitable for a small boat. Further researched turned up this article about using imposed current systems on a small aluminum boat: http://www.kastenmarine.com/corrosion.htm It was not favorable because of the lack of monitoring required.
Click to expand...
Sarge, you might want to give Portland Marine Electronics a call. They were quoted in the magazine article as being knowledgeable about this stuff, but a brief visit to their website did not reveal anything specific to imposed current, hence my suggestion to call them.

Warren
 
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