House Bank Charging

Ray

New member
Hey guys,

I know a lot of you come from the sailboat world.

I want to have a conventional house bank and a separate starting battery. I would like to use a voltage-following charger (Xantrex Echocharge) to bleed charging voltage from the house bank to the starting battery.

This type of charging setup requires that all charging sources charge the house bank only (unlike the conventional ACR folks are using).

Has anyone separately wired the alternator from the outboard to a house bank? The schematics seem to show (BF150) that the alternator output currently goes right to the starter battery input terminal.

Any thoughts?
 
Is this a trick question? My outboards, all of them I've had, have only two cables coming from them. They are the plus and the minus. If you are starting the engine or charging it, it all happens via those two. If you went into the power head and rewired to separate the charging circuit from the starting circuit, then, I suppose that you'd be able to charge the house battery and start from the start battery. But why would you do that? You'd be re-engineering some tricky stuff in those circuits.

So, I don't think I've understood your question, and I have been a sailboat guy for several decades.

I think, on a power boat there are tried and true methods for handling house and start banks from a simple bat one and bat two and off switch to the voltage sensitive relays. None are that expensive, and you would be sticking with methods with gazillions of hours of proof of performance.
 
Sorry if I was unclear.

Not a trick question at all.

A voltage sensing relays connect the battery banks together and make them as one. This is one step down from a voltage-follower system, where basically a second charger is charging the starting battery, using the (settable) fully charged house bank. This is what the Echo Charger does from Xantrex. It does not connect the two banks together. As just one advantage, this allows dissimilar battery types to be used, e.g. flooded for the house and an Optima for the starter. You cannot (shouldn't) do this with a voltage sensing relay.

It appears that all of the "tricky stuff" in the Honda engine circuit is "prior" to the output of the alternator lead according to the schematics. It just happens to be connected (out of convenience?) to the starter terminal post allowing charging directly to whatever battery is connected to the starter. I was just wondering if anyone had run that alternator output wire separately to a house bank.

I rebuilt my last sailboat to use the same setup I am speaking of here (http://seaweed.thebilge.com). It worked well for me. It is typical of larger sailboat systems wherein folks are out for some time. The batteries/alternator/charging circuit I built is here: http://seaweed.thebilge.com/images/sche ... ematic.pdf

It is possible that this is overkill, however, in that a typical sailboat starting battery may be very infrequently used and/or charged when compared with my new-to-me C-Dory.
 
The Xantrex Echo Charger is designed to "echo" the charge from one battery (or bank) to another. The most common set up would be to have a 115v battery charger charging the house battery (or bank) and to "echo" that charge to the starting battery to keep it topped off when not in use.

The intention is that the engine keeps the starting battery charged when the engine is running. When the engine isn't running the Echo Charger maintains the starting battery charge if an onboard charger is charging the house bank. In this scenario the Echo Charger can keep a starting battery that is quite a lot different in size and/or type than the house battery charged up without combining them.

The fundamental idea here is that you have a boat in storage (or moored) with an onboard charger that's taking care of the house battery (or bank) but the starting battery is just sitting there self-discharging over time so after some amount of time if you decide to use the boat the starting battery is discharged. The Echo Charger addresses this issue by "echoing" the charge being sent to the house battery (by the charger) to the start battery and not allowing it to discharge.

I don't see any practical application for the Echo Charger when underway in an outboard-powered boat. It's not that it couldn't be done, it's just that one would be doing it for the exercise and/or challenge and not for any practical (or meaningful) result. There are so many limits already on automotive-style charging systems (of which the outboard charging system is just an adaptation) that little or nothing would be gained in a practical sense.

If one could install a multi-stage regulator for charging from the engine (possible with an inboard or I/O but not (currently) with an outboard) then some argument could be made for divorcing the starting system from the charging system and taking advantage of an echo charge to keep the starting battery charged (the output of the charging system being routed to the house bank in this case and echoing to the starting battery).
 
Thanks, Les. Good description.

My main effort is to capture those amps from the outboard while underway to charge the house bank for use at anchor!! That's the "practical application for the Echo Charger when underway in an outboard-powered boat" that I am interested in.

I know an ACR can do this, but I don't want them combined. A starting battery needs very little recharging at all after running for all of about 5 seconds to start the engine.

Seems a waste to deliver a minimal charge to a starting battery that is barely depleted when 40A is available for many hours while underway.

JMHO,
Ray
 
The way my system works with the VSR is:

The starting battery is charged from the engine until it is up to full charge. The VSR kicks in and DISCONNECTS the starter battery, which is usually of a different type and vintage or make from that of the starter battery, and the charge is then delivered to the second battery until it is fully charged. The VSR then moves to whichever battery needs charge. The whole point being that you CAN mix batteries with this system and the two batteries are never in parallel.

My system is a bit more complicated in that I have a port and starboard starter battery and a house battery. The system works like a charm. It may be a more expensive way to go than what you've proposed, but is certainly standard for larger power boats.

When my boat is stored, it is plugged in so there is a multi bank charger that keeps all three batteries at peak. Or if no AC power is available, I turn all of the battery switches off. During long term winter storage, the batteries come into the house with me and sit on maintenance chargers.

But, different strokes for different folks and sounds like what you propse would work fine.
 
Hmmm. I thought VSR and ACR were different manufacturer's names for the same thing, that is they both bridge the batteries when the one attached to the charging source reaches full charge. Can you provide a model number?
 
VSR is the generic name for Voltage Sensitive Relay. As I look at my system and read more closely, I see that it DOES say that the other battery is ADDED to the charge circuit, thereby putting the batteries in parallel when the start battery has reached full charge. So I am in fact putting a start battery in parallel with a deep charge house battery. (As you stated). So, I guess that is a compromise that could reduce the overall life of the two batteries as they are different in internal make up.

This is the type I have only for Dual start batteries and single house battery.

http://www.bepmarine.com/home-mainmenu- ... ng-cluster
 
Hi Ray,

By "no practical use" I didn't mean that the house batteries should not be charged underway, only that an echo charger on an outboard powered boat is not practical from an installation and/or cost standpoint. I believe that it technically could be done but it would be an exercise to see if could be done and would not result in a meaningful improvement over what can be done with off-the-shelf parts and no alteration to the outboard.

It's really a matter of scale and use given that a C-Dory is using relatively inexpensive and small batteries and the outboard is outputting low amperage that cannot (easily) be regulated beyond what's built in by the manufacturer. This is a totally different scale of operations when contrasted with a cruising sailboat where much attention and (usually) dollars are lavished on the batteries and electrical system.

Typically the largest house battery on a C-Dory is a group 31 deep cycle of about 105 to 115 amp hours and the starting battery is usually a group 24 (though we use group U-1 batteries on small twins like the 40/50). It's difficult, without an external charging source or lots of motoring to keep more than 105 to 115 amp hour batteries charged up; there just isn't enough output from the engine alternator to do more. The rule-of-thumb is to keep the house battery (or bank) no more than 5 times (in amp hours) the capacity of the alternator (in amps) and 4 is really a bit better unless the boat is motored a lot.

I agree that using a VSR/ACR (just different names for the same thing) is not, in theory, as efficient as using the echo charge but in an everyday practical application on a boat like the C-Dory there isn't enough to be gained (for most folks and/or applications) to warrant the effort to install an echo charger system.

Most VSR/ACRs are dual sensing units and "see" both the starting battery and house battery voltages. When either meets the cut-in requirements the VSR/ACR closes and parallels the batteries. In most cases this means you're paralleling a group 31 deep cycle and a group 24 cranking battery. Assuming that they're the same "type" (flooded, AGM, or Gel) that isn't an issue given their relatively close sizing. On a boat with a very large house bank (say several hundred amp hours) this would/could be a problem but since that's not typically the case on a C-Dory it isn't an issue in everyday use.

Much depends on the capacity of the house bank and how one uses and maintains the batteries. If there is a large(ish) house bank involved that is routinely pulled down to deep depth of discharge levels using a VSR/ACR is more challenging if a good alternator output is not present. A worst case scenario on a C-Dory might be a boat with twin 40/50s (I'll use the older Honda BF40/50 in this example with an alternator output of 10 amps) that's equipped with a group 31 115 amp-hour house battery and a group 24 cranking battery and the house battery is discharged to 10.5 volts (as an example). When the VSR/ACR is closed (one the starting battery is up to cut-in voltage and the VSR/ACR parallels the batteries) the much depleted house battery will take what the starting battery will give up and everything the engine alternator can deliver. There's a good chance that the system voltage (the combination of the starting and house battery) will fall below the cut-out voltage on the VSR/ACR and that it will disconnect the house and starting batteries. As soon as the starting battery comes back up to cut-in voltage the VSR/ACR will cut in again. This scenario causes a "chattering" VSR/ACR that continuously cuts in and out until the system voltage is finally raised enough for the VSR/ACR to stay engaged.

This is not a "equipment" or technology problem but rather a design situation; the "balance" of the system was either not taken into consideration or a decision may have been made that the house bank wouldn't (typically) be allowed to drop to a deep depth of discharge. That is, the owner/operator understands enough about the system to regulate the depth of discharge and keep it above a particular lower threshold.

With a larger outboard the same scenario rarely occurs if the house bank is "balanced" with the output of the alternator(s). Even with a deep depth of discharge of the house bank the larger alternator can put out enough to keep the system voltage from dropping below the VSR/ACR cut-out point.

So...given that the batteries on a C-Dory are relatively inexpensive (nothing like the cost of a good house bank on a cruising sailboat), that the relationship of the house and starting battery are relatively close, that a VSR/ACR is an affordable product and easy to install, that no alteration to the outboard is necessary, and that the system works in most typical scenarios, the VSR/ACR is the "go to" product when trying to optimize the charging system.

That system allows the house bank to reach about an 85% charge level, which is as good as it's going to get without a multistage regulator, which is something that can be added to an automotive-style regulator on an inboard but not to an outboard.

If the starting battery happens to suffer in this scenario and "dies" as a result of being rather continuously paralleled to the house battery then at least it's rather easy and inexpensive to replace. Real world experience does not indicate that starting batteries in a VSR/ACR equipped system are any more likely to die than in other system.

I would opine that in the case of a typical cruising C-Dory with a properly balanced charging system that not only does a VSR/ACR system work but that it keeps the batteries as charged as any other system that might be far more complex, expensive, and require technical alteration to the outboard's charging system.

If one has a use scenario for a C-Dory outside the "norm" and is trying to develop a system to support that use scenario then likely specialized systems may be needed to meets those needs. For instance, if one were to wish to spend as much time away from marinas (and therefore shore power) as possible, and every day motoring is also not the intended use, then outfitting the C-Dory is really no different than outfitting a cruising sailboat for the same use. It will take a large battery bank to support the needed loads over many days, and a way to recharge the battery bank, which would include things like solar panels, wind generator, and such. On the C-Dory a substitute for running the diesel inboard on a sailboat with a large capacity alternator for some time every day or two is to run a suitcase-style generator (like a Honda EU2000i) powering an onboard 115v battery charger.

Basically, if the goal is a balanced system, the defining item for the typical battery system on a C-Dory is the output of the alternator on the main engine(s). If that system does not have enough capacity to support the intended use than a custom solution must be sought and ways found to balance it with some external charging source (or sources). Using an echo charge system rather than a VSR/ACR will not fundamentally change the characteristics or usability of a basic battery system designed for support from (only) the engine alternator(s).

I know this is awfully long-winded and I also assume that you (Ray) already know and understand much of the information. I've written as much as I have in the spirit of education so that others might gain from the conversation.

With that in mind I don't believe your proposal for an echo charge system is "wrong" in any sense of the word. I do believe that you won't see a real world return on your investment when compared to a basic VSR/ACR system unless you incorporate much more than typical battery capacity and external charging sources.

Les
 
If part of your goal is to allow house bank charging while underway, there is another way as well. I have some experience now with one of these battery to battery units and I am pleased so far.

http://www.shop.sterling-power.com/acatalog/B2B.pdf

It is basically a good charger that uses the starting battery carefully/intelligently as a power source to charge a house bank. The battery sizes/types can be different between house and starting and you can feed both at the dock with shore power on a single, simple AC charger connected to the starting battery. I use a 5 amp model.

I use mine connected from a 70hp yamaha to a group24AGM starting battery then to the unit itself, then on to two group 31 AGMs that I use for a trolling motor.

Just got back from five days with no shore power and our limited running time topped up the "house bank" perfectly each day and we were using the heck out of the trolling motor.
 
Meant to add.......

-Less/smaller wiring requirements (no monster cables to reach cabin mounted house bank)
-Smaller/simpler AC charger needed for most
-Banks can be drastically different in chemistry and size but still charge properly
-installation is very simple

You can tell I am a fan.

Greg
 
@Les - WOW! Thank you for a thoughtful, thorough, well thought out "education". I agree with everything you said. Each option *IS* very use-case dependent. Thank you for laying it out so well.

@Greg - that B2B unit looks really neat. It looks like it is a souped up version of the Echo Charge. The echo charge has limited current towards the second battery as it is intended to operate in the reverse direction of the B2B, replacing the little bit of charge lost in a starting battery.

Some interesting tidbits in there - it looks like they have the option of doing a sort of MPPT with the alternator(battery) output similar to what the solar folks have been doing. They also appear to be getting ready for LiFePO4 - cool!
 
Many of the larger outboards have dual outputs from the alternator circuit. Unfortuantely the Honda is not one of those outboards--the Suzuki 150/175 is.

To add to what Les posted; we use a Honda EU 1000, and a 30 amp 3 stage charger to keep out house batteries topped of. In reality when we cruised AK for a month, we rarely used this backup. The 130 Honda outboard waa adequate to keep the house bank (2 group 31's AGM for the refer, and two group 31's for the "house" as well as the group 27 starting battery (all using VSR's. We did stop at a dock every few days for water and supplies, and there topped the batteries to the remaining 15% with the 10 amp on board fixed charger.

On this 22 we are using a group 31 AGM to power a chest freezer, and the group 27 house and start. We will more frequently use the genset, with the larger amount of times away from docks and the same 30 amp charger.
 
Another comment--also coming from the world of ocean crossing sailboats.

We have used both voltage and amperage use / input systems, rather than echo charging. We used manual switching, with carefull monitering.

Today I have a Xantrex Link 10 which allows two batttery voltage monitering, and amperage of one bank--the house. There are several other systems, and allow very careful monitering of the battery status. This avoids stress on the batteries and longer life, plus more effecient use of power.
 
thataway":ot983o28 said:
Today I have a Xantrex Link 10 which allows two batttery voltage monitering, and amperage of one bank--the house. There are several other systems, and allow very careful monitering of the battery status.

I recently got a Victron BMV-600S, which will monitor one bank (the BMV-602S will monitor two banks). I've had a Link in the past (older model), and I do like being able to monitor the house bank. This time I decided to try the Victron. The gauge part hooks up with a cable that's like an Ethernet cable, which seems tidy. I can't really review it yet, though, as it's still in the box.

I purchased it for ~$150 - here's a link to it on the Victron site, in case anyone is interested:

http://www.victronenergy.com/battery-monitors/bmv-600s and bmv-602s/
 
Well, the use of a SPDT relay rated for the current (make before break) will allow you from the helm to switch over the OB motor from the starting battery to the house bank... A simple switch at the helm will allow you to be the intelligent controller...
The drill would be:
Switch in Starting battery mode and everything is normal... Start the motor and let it recharge the starting battery for some time period, say 10 minutes...
Then flip the switch which will move the positive lead of the motor off the starting battery to the house bank...
You want a make-before-break relay to avoid running the alternator with no battery connected for the split second of the switching which can cause problems on electronic control motors - and momentarily (or worse) shut the motor down...
Now the house battery IS the motor battery and is being recharged under control without boiling the starting battery to death...
When you shut the motor down flip the switch back to normal so you are not trying to start using the discharged house batteries the next time you start up - no harm done if you do, just lots of clicking...
 
I'm a big fan of the old axion "In technology, simplification is the ultimate sophistication". I have that sign in my shop. In my 22 I have 2 batteries, a 100 or so amp-hr battery that runs everything, and a smaller backup battery of about 50 amp-hrs. The (manual) Perko switch stays on #1 to the large battery almost all the time. I monitor that one with the e-meter (link 10) so I can get a pretty accurate reading on what's going on, % of capacity and what's going in or out. The smaller battery is almost always off-line and is moniored by a separate voltmeter. On occasion I use it early in the morning when anchored to get full voltage to the ham radio. If the small one gets a little low (rare), I just switch the Perko to "both" for awhile when running, and put a reminder on the dash to turn it back to #1 position. No relays, diodes, etc. So, this system is simple like the single battery in a car that everything manages to run off of, but ...with a backup battery..because it's a boat.

Roy
 
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