Help Needed for Bimini

colbysmith

colbysmith

Active member
Joined
Oct 2, 2011
Messages
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C Dory Year
2009
C Dory Model
25 Cruiser
Hull Identification Number
UWH25301J809
Vessel Name
C-Traveler
Hi,
Needing some quick photos ASAP... My boat is in the cover shop to get a new bimini and the guy will start serious work this weekend. We had talked initially about fastening the bimini to the high top roof; which would require some additional tubing from the edges of the high top to the outer edge of the rest of the roof. Theory was to keep the water (any rain) from running down and around in the channel where the cover will mount, thus keeping the cockpit dry even in very hard rain. (This would also allow a height of about 76" in the cockpit, which is level with the high top roof.) This also requires some additional vertical material on that edge roofing. I'm starting to have some second thoughts about the extra tubing and channeling extending on the roof off to the side of the high top. So, I'm wondering if anyone with a CD-22 would have some photos available of where there bimini attaches to the roof, showing the elevation then of the rest of the bimini as well. Thanks in advance. Colby

biminidrawing.jpg
 
I have something like that on my 16. I just took a picture with my bimini up and posted it in my pictures.

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?set_ ... _photo.php

It uses Dot fasteners all along the cabin top to keep the wind from pulling the Sunbrella loose, as it would with snaps. The tubes are held with regular bimini nylon deck fittings. Because mine is quite close to the end of the cabin, in really bad conditions I can get wind blown spray under the front and dripping into the cockpit. On a 16, that means it can drip down my back.

Mark
 
All of my Bimini have been secured to the top of the cabin--aft of the raised area. They have had about a 2" strip of Sunbrella, with the awning rail "Bolt rope" which slides in the groove, and then velcro on the top, and a zipper which starts in the center,and goes out when fully attached to the actual Bimini. The Bimini part has Velcro attached to the underside on a flap which overlaps, the zipper. That way no water can getting the boat thru the zipper. The top can be zipped back half way if necessary for getting on board or for getting up on the side deck.

At least one of the cantilevered frames has the top about 8" above the cabin top. That part unzips in a upside down "smiley face" which allows ventilation under the Bimini without loss of shade.

I believe the awning gives a much better seal that will be water proof from water coming aft on the cabin top--over snaps, or lift the dot fasteners.

If you do go flush with the top--how are you going to attach the top to the cabin top, laterally of the raised area? most likely you will have to use an awning rail there ,and maybe even down the sides of the "high top". You will also have to use some fasteners on the raised lateral railings. The only advantages I can see, are increased head room, and you could put in the upside down smileys to increase ventilation under the top. You will have al sorts of geometric issues fitting the tubing to the top, blending the canvas to the sides of the cabin hours, and the raised top.
 
Thanks for the replies and photos. The guy that will be building my bimini will use that channel with a piece that slides in, then is zippered and velcroed...I believe. Bob, what he is looking at doing is actually putting that channel along the back of the high top. He will mount a tube on both sides of the high top then that forms an L and ends up on the edge of the lower roof. So the channel will then run all the way across the back of the high top, and along the additional tubes. Then underneath those additional "side" tubes, so that we have something better to attach a little flap to between the top of the roof extension tubes and the lower roof, he has some hard nylon (maybe something else, but basically that kind of material) that is cut like a 1x1 that will be fastened to the lower roof parallel with the back of the roof. Wish I could explain it better, and better yet, wish I could draw a better picture. Also, for the very aft portion of the camper top, it will actually come down into the splash well from behind the Lazarettes. That is so we can still have our cooler that mounts in that frame over the forward half of the splash well. With the camper back on, we won't be able to tilt the engine all the way up, but should still have full range of normal trim. Colby
 
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