Help - Condensation/heather

Thanks - yeah my biggest thing is that I don't like spending money twice. I rather get the right thing - looking at the Wallas 22GB that seems to be the one that will fit my needs. I don't want a cook top as I grill everything and have a little propane stove should I want to use a pan for something I also always have my trusty jet boil for water. I rather have my counter top.

I think the 22GB per the specs does exactly what I want. So I think that is the route I will go.

I sent you the pics to your email :-)

Thanks all for the replies - not I just need to find the best deal - I have a friend who may sell me one at cost brand new so I will check that route out. Just need to build the confidence to cut holes into my hull!!

H
 
Mock up the installation with either cardboard, or door skin plywood (hot glue is a rapid way to make the mock up). This way, you will get everything precisely in the correct place.
 
I'm surprised this hasn't come up yet, and I did a quick search and it looks like the C-Brats have not discovered this trick yet, so get ready!!

If you want to keep your windows nice and clear of condensation just put some dish soap (I use Dawn) on a paper towel and coat the windows (get any ice off first, but condensation can stay on there while you coat) then wipe the excess off with a clean paper towel. You aren't scrubbing off all the soap, in fact, you are leaving a little on there.

Now I know what you are thinking, because I have had many folks see this happen on my boat for the first time. Everyone thinks you are not going to be able to see, get a bunch of film building up, etc. But if you are dealing with condensation, YOU WON'T have that problem. The condensation will eventually remove all of the soap you have applied and the window will start to fog (the more condensation the more quickly this happens. I will coat my windows 2-3x over a whole summer, and sometimes 2-3 times a day in the winter, but it really works! No fans, no heat, no nuthin.
 
Kushtaka":od46dcs2 said:
I'm surprised this hasn't come up yet, and I did a quick search and it looks like the C-Brats have not discovered this trick yet, so get ready!!

If you want to keep your windows nice and clear of condensation just put some dish soap (I use Dawn) on a paper towel and coat the windows (get any ice off first, but condensation can stay on there while you coat) then wipe the excess off with a clean paper towel. You aren't scrubbing off all the soap, in fact, you are leaving a little on there.

Now I know what you are thinking, because I have had many folks see this happen on my boat for the first time. Everyone thinks you are not going to be able to see, get a bunch of film building up, etc. But if you are dealing with condensation, YOU WON'T have that problem. The condensation will eventually remove all of the soap you have applied and the window will start to fog (the more condensation the more quickly this happens. I will coat my windows 2-3x over a whole summer, and sometimes 2-3 times a day in the winter, but it really works! No fans, no heat, no nuthin.
Click to expand...

I was just about to post this exact same solution! We learned about this from some of the tugboat captains. It works!
 
Kushtaka":1ogauf36 said:
I'm surprised this hasn't come up yet, and I did a quick search and it looks like the C-Brats have not discovered this trick yet, so get ready!!

If you want to keep your windows nice and clear of condensation just put some dish soap (I use Dawn) on a paper towel and coat the windows (get any ice off first, but condensation can stay on there while you coat) then wipe the excess off with a clean paper towel. You aren't scrubbing off all the soap, in fact, you are leaving a little on there.

Now I know what you are thinking, because I have had many folks see this happen on my boat for the first time. Everyone thinks you are not going to be able to see, get a bunch of film building up, etc. But if you are dealing with condensation, YOU WON'T have that problem. The condensation will eventually remove all of the soap you have applied and the window will start to fog (the more condensation the more quickly this happens. I will coat my windows 2-3x over a whole summer, and sometimes 2-3 times a day in the winter, but it really works! No fans, no heat, no nuthin.
Click to expand...

NASA does this exact same thing to the visors of the ISS EVA suits so they don't fog up during spacewalks.

I believe it was Chris Hadfield who got some of this soap in his eyes once in the middle of a spacewalk.
 
I had a Wallas cooktop/heater on my 2001 C-Dory and on my 2006 North River. Nothing but problems. Had to send them back to Scan Marine numerous times for very expensive repairs and half the time they never even worked when I got them back and re-installed them...... about drove me nuts.

I went with the Espar D-2 on my new C-Dory as I had a D-4 on my North River that worked great, and the butane stove for a cooktop when I need it and it is good combo so far, much more affordable and you can actually customize the location of the heater vent outlets as they rotate in place and the angle is adjustable. Really sips the diesel, I can go 24 hours on a gallon. I also use 2 small adjustable fans mounted above the front windows. I have also used Fog-X, made by the Rain-X folks. I will have to try the dish soap trick next spring!

Only addition I am going to make to help with the condensation is the 12V/solar vent fan that I will place in the forward hatch this spring. It actually makes a huge difference in getting the air moving and keeping the condensation down. I had them in my other boats and they really help a lot.

Basic needs are warm dry fresh air, heater that exhausts to the outside and air movement all the way through the boat.

Don't forget your CO2 detector

Good luck!
 
Besides Dawn, I have used Head and Shoulders shampoo. That works well and I have been using it on my motorcycle helmet visor for a long time. Wipe on a generous coat, let it sit for about 5 minutes and then buff dry with a microfiber or soft cloth. Only takes one application per season for me. YMMV, but you will be able to see out.

Harvey
SleepyC :moon

1_10_2012_from_Canon_961.highlight.jpg
 
I tried the RainX anti-fog - that was a waste of money. I think the Wallas heater (not stove top) will do well for my purposes with the positive airflow. Maybe its the newer C-Dorys or something but my Venture is sealed tight - there is no air "leaking out" unless I open windows and the door but who wants that when its below 40 degrees also I wonder if because the venture is so well insulated inside if the windows are the only place where the condensation can really stick that it accentuates the issue - lets put it this way on the way home with front hatch open and one side window I still had to wipe the windows. Yes I am spoiled but I like to be comfortable. To me this is essential for my boating pleasure. If it wasn't I would be like those crazy guys out there with open aluminum boats and 15 layers of clothing. More power to them but that is not enjoyable to me.

For me the boat is a camper on water - thats my primary purpose just to enjoy & explore and get out away from my desk.

I really appreciate everyones input - I don't understand why Espar doesn't use external air intakes vs recirculated air.

Thanks all for your great experience and insight!
H
 
Ordutch1975":1uw5hpuu said:
Maybe its the newer C-Dorys or something but my Venture is sealed tight - there is no air "leaking out" unless I open windows and the door
Click to expand...

I cannot speak for the Venture series--but most of the C Dory line in the past have had several openings to fresh air--Anchor rode deck plates, or windlass, and on both sides between the cockpit and cabin on the outside of the aft bulkhead where the shifter, power, and other electrical cables (including transducer cables) have always allowed some air into the boat, even with doors and windows shut.

There are now anti fogging nano coating which are available. But glycerine or soap are cheaper...
 
If there is any condescending on my boat I'll let the crew know right away , as captain, that the flogging will commence and continue until that "condescending attitude" goes away.

I've found it best for everyone involved if I run a tight ship!
 
ken35216":1jjsztul said:
If there is any condescending on my boat I'll let the crew know right away , as captain, that the flogging will commence and continue until that "condescending attitude" goes away.

I've found it best for everyone involved if I run a tight ship!
Click to expand...

Commence the flogging!! Sounds like a Monty Python episode!
 
Ordutch1975":2trc4qz8 said:
I tried the RainX anti-fog - that was a waste of money. I think the Wallas heater (not stove top) will do well for my purposes with the positive airflow. Maybe its the newer C-Dorys or something but my Venture is sealed tight - there is no air "leaking out" unless I open windows and the door but who wants that when its below 40 degrees also I wonder if because the venture is so well insulated inside if the windows are the only place where the condensation can really stick that it accentuates the issue - lets put it this way on the way home with front hatch open and one side window I still had to wipe the windows. Yes I am spoiled but I like to be comfortable. To me this is essential for my boating pleasure. If it wasn't I would be like those crazy guys out there with open aluminum boats and 15 layers of clothing. More power to them but that is not enjoyable to me.

For me the boat is a camper on water - thats my primary purpose just to enjoy & explore and get out away from my desk.

I really appreciate everyones input - I don't understand why Espar doesn't use external air intakes vs recirculated air.

Thanks all for your great experience and insight!
H
Click to expand...

My Espar D2 definitely has external fresh air intake, not recirculated intake. I just installed it this spring. It is a separate intake hose that is routed outside of the cabin and feeds into the intake on the heater..
 
Ordutch1975":2um54eh6 said:
I tried the RainX anti-fog - that was a waste of money. I think the Wallas heater (not stove top) will do well for my purposes with the positive airflow. Maybe its the newer C-Dorys or something but my Venture is sealed tight - there is no air "leaking out" unless I open windows and the door but who wants that when its below 40 degrees
H
Click to expand...
In order for the warmed air to remove the moisture, you will have to have an opening for it to leave the cabin. If you opening a window, aft of the heater, just a crack, that should do it while under way. At anchor, select a window on the downwind side. If you do not do that, the moisture in the heated air has no way to leave.

Some folks put a small fan at the "exhaust" window and set it to blow air out of the cabin.

Providing a way for moist air to leave the cabin will also increase the inflow into the heater, thereby increasing its heating effect.

Just don't make the exhaust window opening huge.

Hope this helps.
 
C-Dude":3thl4gwk said:
My Espar D2 definitely has external fresh air intake, not recirculated intake. I just installed it this spring. It is a separate intake hose that is routed outside of the cabin and feeds into the intake on the heater..
Click to expand...

Ok sorry was getting confused - apparently the espar temp sensor is in the unit not the remote which seems a bit whacky. So I guess the D2 vs the 22GB Wallas - which way would you go?

H
 
The Espar D2 can use outside air if you have the more expensive thermostat.
That would use all outside air, so it would be like heating your home using all cold air from outside. The cheapest Espar controller just measures return air temps. Because the CD 16 has plenty of air exchange even when closed up, the cheap control works for me.

You can see the different Espar controls here starting at 3:40.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guN0ZtemeO4

Mark
 
I'm leaning towards the Wallas. Less amp draw, quieter...but more money.

One technical hurdle I have to overcome is the exhaust. I do not want to drill another hole, so I need to figure out a way to use the current hole (exhaust for our cooktop/heater combo) for the furnace. The issue is a minimum 12" from exhaust to the top of the exhaust hose is required. See below:

http://www.c-brats.com/modules.php?...ame=gallery&file=index&include=view_album.php

This may not be possible, given the area under the sink vs the counter top vs the pre-existing hole. :roll:
 
This may not be possible, given the area under the sink vs the counter top vs the pre-existing hole. Rolling Eyes
Click to expand...
My Wallas 1800 is installed in the galley cabinet, to the left of the sink. I couldn't achieve the 12" loop either, but I did it anyway. The exhaust tube goes as high as possible until it hits the underside of the counter top. It does not make a twelve inch elevation change. Probably only 8-10. It has had no problem in the 10 years its been installed. Its often running when the boat is crashing through some rough going and I've not had it either go out or seen any corrosion problems yet. Knock on wood.
Cheers
Ron
 
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