Heads up on the Jabsco Marine Head

A

Alyssa Jean

New member
While on our R/T from the San Juans to Ketchikan two years ago the Jabsco Marine head refused to pump water into the bowl to flush. Luckily we were in Prince Rupert and the marine store there had a replacement gasket/flapper valve. Take out 6 screws and the top/pump comes off and it is located right under it. Same thing happened last week, so I pulled the top again. Now I understand what is causing it. The lever that you throw back and forth to either pump water into the bowl or empty the bowl has a curved finger inside under the top. Looks like a big letter "J".The top of the "J" is the lever and it is hinged where it passes through the top plate. When the lever is in the right position (facing the head) it is in the position to empty the toilet. To the left it is in the position to pump water into the toilet. If you leave the lever in the empty position (to the right) the curved part of the "J' under the top is lifting a small rubber flap. The valve flap develops a memory if you leave the lever in that position. (I seldom use the head so it can sit like that for weeks or months)
When you do need to pump water for flushing the flap won't lay back tight and make a seal.

So. After pumping the bowl empty leave the lever in the left bowl filling position when through. The "J" is in the lower position and the flap can lay against the seal. I put a small label to that effect near the lever.

I will hear from Pat on Daydream on this I am sure. He has the only composting toilet on a 25 as far as I know.
 
Sounds like a good thing to know. Not sure if I have been doing it as you describe or the other way around but will apply a similar label to remind myself. Thanks. Steve
 
There's one big problem leaving it in the fill position. With a scoop thru-hull fitting, water will be forced through the toilet at cruise speed, filling the holding tank, then overflowing the toilet.
I've done this many times by forgetting to close the toilet valve.
That's why there is a caution symbol on the valve. On a big boat, where the head is below the waterline, you could siphon water into the boat if you don't have a vented loop in the fill line.
 
I have a repair kit for a Jabsco head that is free to the first C-Brat going to the Friday Harbor CBG. I have now installed a traveller head and won't be able to use the repair kit so it may as well move on to someone who can use it. The only caveat I have is... I have to make it to the gathering and right now it looks somewhat iffy due to work pressures.
Ron
 
Hi Dave, et all,
I had a similiar problem this past month where I could pump out the bowl
but draw in any water. My unit dates back to 2004.

I purchased the rebuild kit for the '29090-2000', Manual Toilet, and found
where the company has added two changes to the valve assy from the
original model installed in the 2005 C-Dory.

The parts can be seen at www.jabsco.com.

A. Item #35, Valve Spring... this seems to keep back pressure on the
intake valve and is seated against a brass
back plate puck on the flapper valve. There
isn't any part number for this part, yet.

B. Item #21, Top Valve Gasket... this is both the gasket and the intake
and exhaust flapper valves; both of which
now have the pucks, where as only the
exhaust had it before.

I believe the "J" cam lever [item #20] also makes contact to the back side of one of
the 'pucks', which one I don't remember right now, but the wear is now
minimal and more firm.

I called JABSCO and they sent me a replacement Valve Gasket along with
the spring. My original parts were in excellent shape, so I added these to
the old parts and now have a backup kit. It now works like it was new.

Art
 
I just completely rebuilt the head on "Frequent Sea"--same model Jabsco. I agree that you cannot leave the lever in the open position when running in seas,--at least in the 25, there is possibility of flooding. Close the thru hull valve when you are not using the boat, then you can leave this flap open.

The head rebuild includes the joker valve, which is a tricuspid valve going to the discharge, from the pump, "o" rings for the pump (which needs to be lubricated with teflon grease)--a flapper valve which is at the intake of the pump--and the top valves, which I believe were described above.

There are "head" lubricants which should be run thru the head on a regular basis--also the white vingar helps to prevent calcium and urate depositions.
 
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