Have you ever removed a Tomcat Fuel Tank

J

John S

New member
Hello
If you have I need some help/ advice.

I'm in the process of pulling my Port side tank right now because of a small leak.

I removed the dinette area and all of the seating in that area. I've pulled up the star board access panel and removed the flotation foam and the water tank. I cut out the first stifener that holds the fuel tank in.

Then I lost momentum. When C-Dory manufactured the Tomcat they liberally spread 5200 sealant all over the ends of the tank during installation. My tank is very well sealed to the stiffiener that is behind it. I have worked VERY hard and can move the tank up and down and side to side, but it will NOT come forward. (I have pried with lots of force) I was able to cut the fiberglass holding the top of the stiffener with a sawzall blade screwed to a 5 foot 2x2 but still not enough. This tank is around 4' long and there is NO backside access available.

I would like to hear from ANYONE who has ever faced this problem before for some advice.

Thank you VERY much.
 
John, do the 24's have aluminum tanks? Our 255 does and I think it would be next to impossible to pull one out without completely cutting the deck, moving all the cabinets, etc. I'm sure they are installed as the boat is being built.

Pictures of what you have would be very helpful. 5200 isn't very forgiving, it's meant to be permanant (as you know). If you can "wiggle" it, you're making progress.

Keep us posted, good luck.

Charlie
 
John-

Do you know where the leak is?

Can it be repaired in place?

Can you weld it or use a suitable adhesive and patch system?

Or, could you sacrifice it, and cut it up to remove it, then replace it with a bladder tank that could be inserted, rather than cut the floor all up?

Jut thinking out loud!

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
Hi guys,
Thanks for the response.

The tanks are aluminum.
I already removed the front stiffener.
I talked with Steve at Titan and he says the stiffener behind the tank that it is glued to with 5200 has to get cut out one way or another. I put a sawzall blade on a 5 ft 2x2 and cut the top free, but don't have room to get the rest. I am definitely committed now!!
He said I may have to access thru the rear deck, but I'm not cutting there yet.
 
Katyk was the first warranty job Wefings did for C Dory before we even got our first boat . What a way to start ! I think if you listen carefully in our shop you can still hear the echoes of the techs cussing . There was cutting involved for sure .
I think the owner of KatyK passed away ? Maybe I am confused , Bob is that not you neighbor in P Cola ?
Marc
 
No Marc--Wayne Barr is who passed on a year ago april. His boat has aluminum tank. My impression was KatyK was only in Pensacola part time--but that was several years ago.
 
Another crazy idea! :idea: :roll:

If you're willing to sacrifice the present tank, and simply replace it with another aluminum tank or a bladder or plastic tank, you can seal all the openings to the tank except one and connect a vacuum pump to it.

The 14.7 lbs per square inch of atmospheric pressure will make it much smaller in a very few minutes.

Then perhaps you can remove it and/or work around it to remove it with the increased clearances.

I'm assuming the leak is small enough that it won't prevent evacucation of the air in the tank, of course.

Might be easier than cutting up the floor (?) :smileo

Joe. :teeth :thup
 
we Restored a classic mustang and the tank had a number of small pin holes in the tank we tried to find a new tank and couldn't find one, finely we heard about a gas tank sealer called Macs tank sealer made for antique cars fuel tanks that are no longer made we tried it it worked great its still in the car with no problem.
you drain the gas tank and pour this stuff in the tank its like a liquid fiber glass it in shake it around the tank let it dry and your good to go might be worth a try the phone number is 1800 777 0948 hope this helps
 
Thanks for all the ideas. I got the bulkhead it was stuck to out by using a 1/4 x 1" piece of aluminum bar stock 5 ft long and riveting a sawzall blade to the end of it.

Thanks again. I've got to get back to work!
 
duff":1tc011nu said:
we Restored a classic mustang and the tank had a number of small pin holes in the tank we tried to find a new tank and couldn't find one, finely we heard about a gas tank sealer called Macs tank sealer made for antique cars fuel tanks that are no longer made we tried it it worked great its still in the car with no problem.
you drain the gas tank and pour this stuff in the tank its like a liquid fiber glass it in shake it around the tank let it dry and your good to go might be worth a try the phone number is 1800 777 0948 hope this helps
Click to expand...

Duff, that's a great idea except that if he can get his tank out to shake it, he can repair or replace it. It's pretty hard to shake a TC255! :shock:

Charlie
 
Ya i realize you can't take the tank out and shake it but you can rock the boat or pull it step on the brakes any thing to get the liquid to slosh around in the tank put an air hose in the tank can move the liquid around get a little creative may save tearing the boat apart. And if the tank is loose where you can move it around some or pull the fill spout where you can blow the liquid around with air
Or could you cut a hole in the tank and put a Bladder inside the old tank for support like a liner in a trash can just a thought
 
Be a little careful with putting bladders in tanks--they can be fairly easily abaided by any sharp metal. Many fuel tanks have baffels--not sure about the Tom Cat tanks--but I suspect that there may be one or two in them. When I have used fuel bladders on boats, I have lashed them down on Ozite carpet to act as padding.

I would replace the tank rather than try and repair. The cost of a new tanks is not all that expensive. This is a potential safety issue. Plus with a new tank, it can be put in properly and the boat will be good for another 30 or so years.
 
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