hard top ideas 22 angler

D

debbieh

New member
looking for ideas for hard top 3 to 4ft over deck for light storage traps etc aluminum ? pictures and or experience helpful thanks jim
 
One brat (can't remember where from), made an extensive stainless frame that was attached to the cabin and cantilevered back over the cockpit. it provides, I think, what you are looking for. Sorry, can't help you with a search, perhaps another brat knows more.
 
There was something like that stored at Channel Islands Landing.... Fishtales...er..I mean Fish Halk..e..r Fish Hawk...(Roger) will remember it and know who owns it..

Joel
SEA3PO
 
Did anyone ever make one of these for the 22 cruiser? Wonder what it would be like to fish with that in place? It would definitely remove access to any rocket launcher on a radar arch.

Warren
 
i like this style of cockpit cover but would need to include a camper canvas cover as well.
what i dislike about my standard bimini top is that it must be partially unsnap each time we get on and off the boat.
pat
 
patrick and linda":29vz2kav said:
what i dislike about my standard bimini top is that it must be partially unsnap each time we get on and off the boat.
Click to expand...

Is it the snap that you don't like or the fact that you have to open up the top at all? If the former, put a zipper in -- that is what I have on my Tom Cat, and I regularly unzip and zip when boarding and leaving the boat. If the latter, if you are not flexible enough (like me) to exit without making the "hole" bigger, I don't think there is any good answer! If you configured the top with a bigger side opening it would likely not provide as much protection.

Warren
 
hi warren,
not sure how a zipper could be configure to allow one to exit and still not have the bimini falling down. our bimini, like most others is mainly supported by snaps attached to the cabin roof. it is to say the least inconvenient exiting the boat or just going forward via the gunnels. zippers normally leak as well. the hard top as shown extends higher than our bimini which gives greater ingress egress. i would think zippers could be installed on the ss support canvas allowing for camper canvas instal.
always enjoy the exchange of ideas.
pat
 
I have been trying to figure something like that out too. If you've drilled any holes in the hardtop you know it is very thin (1/8"or less?) or at least mine is and difficult to fashion anything long or heavy (as in trap storage) without having vertical support posts underneath that create other concerns like retrieving those traps, fishing, etc.

A shorter version with the supports off the bulkhead would probably be best (similar to the Sea Wolf post) but I would still be concerned for weight carrying capacity.

I have thought about maybe a temporary 3x6' sheet of melamine or acrylic or something semi-rigid that one edge could be slipped into a roof mount with a slight side to side bend in it to give lengthwise rigidty. It would provide some shade and light rain protection (but could not be expected to either carry a load or be trailered in place.)

Do I forsee a messed up 3x6 sheet of something in the "failed boating inventions" (worser mouse trap) junk heap?

Probably.

Chris
 
Building a hard top of fiberglass or an aluminum foam sandwich is a technically easy job. There are two ways to build a fiberglass one: one is to find a mold or make a mold. There are commercial outfits which make fiberglass hard tops for any boat you want, such as Atlantic Towers. To make the mold yourself you start with a sheet of masonite or formica, and then put a athwartships curve in it, with strong backs behind. The edges are also made of a material which can be highly waxed. Epoxy or even polysets fillers can make the curves. The best core would be composite--either a foam, or Nadi-core. The top would be gel coated in the mold, the bottom would be sprayed, or painted gel coat, or paint. Probally the best support would be the cantileaver idea. The sides best with canvas, and awning rail to support the top of the sides.

The second fiberglass way, is to use one of the high quality thin plywoods, and bend the curve in it with "cruved rafters" on the underside--this is a bit quicker, as you just form the plywood (such as Occume 3mm). You then glass over the top and bottom, fair and paint.

The quickest and cheapest way is to use an aluminum laminated foam core, like a patio top. You can get these 2" thick, then seal the edges with Epoxy tape, and fairing compound. Use SS tubing for support. I had a similar top on the Symbol 42's flying bridge that I owned, and it looked quite good. It might be a bit thick for a C dory, and it has to be flat, canot be crowned.

I personally would go with a soft top, and SS racks for what you want to stow up there. This allows you to open the top for ventillation if you happen to ever boat in hot climates.
 
patrick and linda":18k2pw56 said:
not sure how a zipper could be configure to allow one to exit and still not have the bimini falling down. our bimini, like most others is mainly supported by snaps attached to the cabin roof. it is to say the least inconvenient exiting the boat or just going forward via the gunnels. zippers normally leak as well.
Click to expand...

Not sure how to explain it -- when I unzip to exit the boat, I only unzip part way and flip the canvas flap out of the way. The top remains attached and does not fall down. The zippers have a storm flap and do not leak. The hard top will cost >$1K, the zippers a fraction of that. The hard top is very cool, though.

Warren
 
If you plan to fish at all don't even think about it. Get a soft top like most have. i can go from fully enclosed to stored against the cabin in 5 minutes. if you have a permeant hard top you will not be able to set the hook right or you will smack the rod against the top and bust it.

I have a top with a zipper and it works great. how many supports do you have in yours?
 
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